How I Built My First Pond

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Why Did I Build It?

It all started from having several koi in my aquarium. Knowing that traditionally, koi were considered "pond fish" I always felt that one day I would risk letting them have a "bigger" home but never really acted on it. Several years later I got the "pond bug" when I met up with other koi owners and attended pond seminars and learned the basics of pond construction and maintenance. I met other pond enthusiasts and visited their ponds.
I became a pond adviser for a local business but also felt that I didn't have the right to tell anyone how to do it unless I had done it myself.
Loving challenges and wanting to experience the creative process and seeing the results for myself I just had to do it.

I had so much fun building the pond. Each step was a victory. Once it was done I was so happy. Every chance I had, I would sit by it, listening to the water, watching the light and mist. I even released a few comets into it. One feisty one survived and now thrives back in the aquarium with the koi. The whole project still makes me smile. I will make a bigger one next time with all the experience I gained from this one.

This is the story of my experience with some insights and suggestions for other pond builders.

Questions to Ask Yourself Before Building a Pond.

What was I thinking?

I knew I wanted to build a pond. I had to decide where and how big and how deep. I knew i wanted to put fish and water lilies into it eventually, so I knew it had to be at least 2 to 2.5 ft deep. It had to be big enough and deep enough as well to hide the pumps and filters under the surface. The hole had to be hand dug because a bobcat couldn't get through a 3 ft gate or drive onto my boardwalk without crushing it.
My first pond was 7ft by 9ft by 2.5ft deep. If you have small children you may want to only have a small shallow pond. Some jurisdictions have restrictions on how deep you can make your pond. If you make it more than three feet deep, some places want you to have a secured yard (the same restrictions as having a hot tub or swimming pool).
I knew I wanted it to be near the house because of the availability of power connections, but mostly because you could see it out of the patio windows. Being the original owner of the property, I knew where the gas and electrical were and that the boulders were probably not going to be a problem. I was conscious of the fact that there were several trees nearby but wasn't overly concerned about leaves pollen or insects. I knew that those obstacles could be overcome with proper filtration.
I also wanted to experiment with live and artificial plants as well as lighting. Since summer was only 8 weeks long (at the most) I had to be savvy about what grows and what doesn't.
As you read through, interjected a lot of other considerations and information about ponds, accessories and pond building along the way just as if you were right there beside me taking a walk through.

Where to Place the Pond

A pond should be a feature!

I chose a place where I could see the pond and where it could be seen and appreciated. It shouldn't be where it is in the way of yard traffic and yet reasonably close (but not too close) to your electrical outlets for powering your pumps and lights.
I placed it so that you could view it from the fire pit. There was enough distance between the two features so that you could walk between them. The pond was close to the house so that power sources were close and dinner could be had at the patio with the wonderful sound of the water and the lighting at night.
An added benefit was that the pond was an extra water source in case the fire pit got out of hand (but that never was a necessity).

Pre-formed Ponds or Pond Liner

Benefits of either route.

You can get either pre-formed ponds or pond liner to form your pond.
If it is your first foray into ponds, and you want to start small, you can go for the preformed pond kit route.
I chose the pond liner route since I wanted a larger pond with the ability to release koi into it later. Pre-formed ponds become more expensive and prone to damage when they are large. I also wanted to customize my pond to fit into my landscape.
If you go with the pre-formed pond you need to dig the hole exactly the same shape as the shell. If it isn't, you may have uneven pressure along the walls, leading to future cracking and leakage. Usually if a preformed pond does crack, the best and most complete solution is to put pond liner into the form.

Examples of Preformed Pond Kits

A good option if you just want to get your feet wet.

Usually these types of ponds are smaller. If you are limited in space, or have small children, these are a good starter option. Usually though, once you have the pond bug, you might quickly outgrow this size pond.
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Pond Kits

When buying a pond kit, what do the numbers mean?

Pond kits are a great way to start out because they give you everything as a one stop shop. You usually get the liner and a pump or fountain kit. Most of the time, there is no filter associated with the pump - even though they say there is one. It's a matter of interpretation. The filter they are talking about is only for stopping the really big leaves or grass from getting into the pump - not one for filtering algae. Sometimes you can get a lighting package to come with the kit. Price out the individual components before buying the kit. If it's a good deal, go for the kit.
Lets review the basic formula:
Volume in Gallons = Length(ft) x Width(ft) x Depth(ft) x 7.5

When someone is telling you the size of the pond in gallons you need to try to get a grasp on how big the pond will be. I always have people figure this out BEFORE they start digging.
So let's rearrange the equation.... Don't be scared.... it's only MATH...
Again the formula is
Volume in Gallons = Length x Width x Depth x 7.5
500 divided by 7.5 = Length x Width x Depth
Assuming 1.5 ft as the Depth,
Length x Width = 500 divided by 7.5 divided by D1.5 = 44.4 sq ft
Take the square root of that number you have about 6.5 as the length and width of the pond.

A reverse check of the numbers : L6.6 x W6.6 x D1.5 x 7.5 = 490 gal (a close approximation)
You will have to try different lengths and widths to get the shape and depth you want,
but at least you can get a feel for how big a hole you will have to dig.
Things get more complicated with the kit has two liner sheets and gives a total gallon size for the kit. Again, before you dig (or buy) do the math and maybe even phone the supplier. Usually they are very helpful.
Here are some examples of pond kits that are available.
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Starting the Dig

Now the hardest part begins.

Make sure that the "Call-Before-You-Dig" people have marked off any hazards such as electrical, sewer, gas or cable lines. Take your time when digging. Start from the markers you have made, and work your way toward the center.
Just for perspective, my first pond of 6 ft x 9 ft x 2.5 ft pond was 135 cubic ft of soil, a.k.a. 5 cubic yards of material!
A L4ft x W4ft x D2ft pond means 240 gal (needs a minimum 120gph pump) and you will be digging 32 cubic ft of material or 1.2 cubic yards of dirt.

Hitting Clay

Tips on digging through clay.

If you are hand digging your pond, clay is much easier to dig through when it is moist. I don't mean slippery or sloppy. I sometimes use a pitch fork or a pick axe to loosen the clay. This allows you to work the soil between the mini boulders. Again before you dig, call the local "Call Before You Dig" folks so that you know how to avoid the cable, electrical gas and sewer lines. These folks would much rather help you avoid a problem than create one.

Finding A Prize!

Yes, you too may find something unexpected.

This was a boulder that was 2 ft long 1ft high and 1ft wide. It weighed at least 50lb and took some serious "ooomph" to move. You may have even more excitement if you find a larger one or several. Thank goodness it was the only one I found. You may even find tree roots or construction scrap.
May all the boulders you find be small ones. Good luck!

The Finished Pond "dug out".

Here are the photos showing a few angles.

All the sticks and sharp stones have been removed. Some people use horticultural sand to even things out. I am not convinced that this is really necessary.

Ready for the Underlay

Why use underlay for the pondliner?

The use of underlay is to create a cushion under the pond liner. I used landscape fabric as my underlay. This is the felt type fabric, not the paper thin material. It's light, strong and easily maneuverable. Underlay protects the pond liner from puncturing. The situation is that over time there may be erosion or shifting of the ground under the pond, exposing rocks or construction waste to create a potential puncture site. Pond liner is very strong, but over the years (and the warranty is anywhere from 10 to 20yrs in many cases), you may have a leak at a point of weakness. It is best to avoid as many of those "points of weakness" as possible.
Some people recycle their "astro-turf" or old carpeting and use it as the underlay. As long as you are not using that foam carpet underlay its probably ok. That foam carpet underlay in my opinion would not be a advisable since it compresses and crumbles to nothing under the great weight of the water.

Examples of Landscape Fabric

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How Much Pond Liner is Needed?

Here are some simple calculations.

Then the next step is placing the pond liner.
When you decide to get pond liner use the following equations to decide how much to purchase:

Length of liner (ft) =
Length of pond (ft) + (2 x Depth of pond (ft)) + 2 (ft)

Width of liner (ft) =
Width of pond (ft) + (2 x Depth of pond (ft)) + 2 (ft)

In my case the liner was:
Length of liner (ft) = 9 ft + (2x2.5 ft) + 2 ft = 16 ft
Width of liner (ft) = 7 ft + (2x2.5 ft) + 2 ft = 14 ft
I needed a piece of liner that was 16 x 14 ft. If you buy pond liner by-the-foot off a roll, their availability is in 5 ft, 10 ft, 15 ft , 20 ft (and some places 30ft) widths. So I had to purchase a 16 x 15 foot piece. A heads up, once its cut off the roll, there are no returns so don't get cheap. It's better to have a bit more than not enough.
Regarding amounts required for underlay, the same calculations and rules apply.

Ready-Cut Pond Liner

How to figure out what you are buying.

Often you can buy pre-cut pond liner. Many times people make the mistake of buying too much or too little material for their projects. First of all, know your pond. By this I mean, know the dimensions of your finished pond.
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Filling the Pond

Use stones to hold down and camouflage some of the liner.

Pumps and More

How to calculate the volume or amount of water in your pond.

Knowing the pond volume helps you to size the pump(s) required for optimum water flow. This is important information also helps with any dosage of additives you may decide to add to your pond.
The size of my pond was L x W x D x 7.5 = 9 x 7 x 2.5 x 7.5 = 1181.25 gal (US)
Water in your pond needs to fully circulate once every two hrs. If it does more than that its OK as long as it doesn't become a swirl like a flushing toilet.
If you have a 500 gal pond you need a pump with the capacity of 250 gph (gallons per hour)
In general a small pond is less than 500 gal.
A medium pond is around 1000 gal.
A large pond is 1500 to 3000 gal.
A really large pond is anything greater than 3000 gallons. For cases like that, you really have to use good old swimming pool or hot tub pump technology as in external pumping systems.

Pump Packages

Try to combine a pump and filter for optimum operation.

I really recommend getting some kind of filtration system when you are looking at getting a pump. Many people misunderstand and assume that a pump automatically has a filter. It's "sort of" true. A pump has a grate or cage or "filter" that stops most large objects from getting caught in the propellers or fins of the pump but it doesn't handle the hard to see stuff. Real filters remove the green algae, seeds, pollen, bugs and other smaller material. Everyone's pond and surrounding circumstances are different but here are some examples.
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My Spitter....

I love this guy.

Pumps for Water Features

These are great little additions for your pond.

I have used similar pumps for my spitters and small fountains. Each small spitter or fountain can take up 50 to 125 GPH to function well. You can run one or two features off of one pump. Simply use a diverter with valve controls to control flow.
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Pumps for Bigger Ponds

It's a different game when you decide on a large pond.

When you choose to go for the bigger pond as in 2500 to 3000 gallon ponds you may find that you will need to place more than one pump and filtration system in the pond at two or more locations. This is an example of a submersible pump that I am talking about.
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Daytime Beauty of the Pond

Mist maker, bubbler and silk water lilies make an interesting combination.

Simple Classic Artistic Spitters and More

Interesting objects give you something to look at.

The addition of a spitter is a fine way to add visual height and interest to your pond. Many people like the traditional nature themed spitters. If you go that route there are many styles for many tastes. The other wonderful thing about having a spitter or two is that it gives you the sound of water.

I also like the addition of a water lily or two. The decision of going artificial or real for plants is a personal decision. Live water lilies need two to three feet of pond depth and lots of direct sunlight to thrive and bloom. If you don't have those elements you can put a few synthetic water lilies or rushes. I elected to use some synthetic lilies and threw in a live water hyacinth in my first pond.
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A Mysterious Silk Water Lily, Water Hyancinth and Bubbler

Lighting can create something special.

This shows how the placement of the lighting on your features can change what you used to think about pond life.

Lighting Your Pond

Some ideas of what works

Stating the obvious, your pond liner is (usually) black. There are some intriguing disco pond lights that are available out there but unless you have a light colored pond surface, they wont really show up. I also found that blue filters on the lights didn't really show up, they just looked very pale. Using the red, yellow, green and white filters seemed to work the best. I experimented the effects by aiming the lights at the mister cloud and at the surface where the bubbler broke the water surface or where the water would flow into the surface. The refractive action of the water really plays well with the light beams.
The solar option is wonderful for floating lights. There are color changing floating lilies or simple UFO floating discs that bob on the surface. I have found it helpful to use a tether to keep the floating lights and plants in the best position on your pond. If you don't, you will find that these objects will seem to have clustered at some corner of the pond just due to the water flow or the wind.
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A Night Shot of the Pond

Mist maker, silk water lily, color changing lily and pond light in the distance.

Mist Makers and Foggers

Add some mystery and fun to the pond.

The amount of fog or mist generated on the surface depends on how deep you place the mister. You need to experiment with their placement. My mist makers and foggers are never more than 3 inches below the water surface. Often a difference of 1 inch below surface and 2 inches below surface can change the amount of mist on the surface or the water. You may have to create a mini support for them to get them close to the surface. Try not to have the mist maker or fogger too close to a waterfall as the bubbles from that feature will inhibit the ability of the mister to work.
Make sure that the water levels of your pond are relatively stable. As I indicated before, the relation between amount the mister is submerged affects the amount of mist you are going to get. Cleaning the diaphragm of mineral and slime build up will keep your mister or fogger working a lot longer. Finally, never allow the mist maker operate under dry conditions as it will damage the diaphragm.
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My Water Lily in a Bucket

This is how I kept it over the winter.

Pond Accessories

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The Magic of Water Lilies

My personal experiment with a water lily.

Water lilies require a minimum of 18" depth and 6 hrs of direct sunlight in order for them to blossom. My first pond was made deep enough (2.5 ft) to support having a water lily. It was late in the season when I finally finished the pond, but it was the right time to get a good deal on a mature plant. I decided to winter it so I never put it into the pond. I placed it in a plastic garbage bucket and near the patio door window. It actually blossomed in November and then went into dormancy. The next summer I put it into a plastic tub and it blossomed again, this time with three blossoms. I would love to try growing one from seed and then place it into a pond.
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Some Quick Picks

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Another Picture of My Water Lily

Some Other Convenient Things to Have

They may not be the first things you think of getting.

The following is self-explanatory. You may just find yourself nodding in agreement.
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Here is the same Water Lily

One year later!

Some Suggested Books on Ponds

You can never get enough information on this topic!

Every pond and every pond owner is unique. There are many variables in pond construction and the logistics of what is involved in pond maintenance. You are literally building a living, breathing mini-ecosystem. The more you know and the more you can communicate with other pond owners in your local area the more success you will have. I know that by talking with and visiting other people's ponds, I learned so much from their experiences.
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Another Mysterious Night Shot

The color change water lily and mist maker create an interesting evening.

A Final Tip

If you are gonna have a knee deep pond....

Get yourself a set of these ! ! !
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Plants Statues Etc

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My Lenses

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Guestbook

  • Satdin May 16, 2012 @ 8:38 am | delete
    Wonderful, detailed information. All fields you explained.
  • agalova Apr 29, 2012 @ 12:03 pm | delete
    Your pond looks great! I'd love to have a Koi Pond someday when my little ones are a little older. What great inspiration!

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VeraSaar

I always have had a squid-eye on the world around me. To me, it means looking at things with an uncommon perspective. Educated as both an engineer and... more »

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