VISIT MY TASMANIA - the island of inspiration

Tasmania - I visited and came back to live

Two years ago I visited Tasmania for a holiday and fell in love with the place. Two months later I came back to stay.

Not only is it a beautiful island, with huge wilderness areas, spectacular scenery and the cleanest air in the world (true), but it's ignored by the tourist routes.
Let me show you some of the things which make Tasmania unique:

its coatal scenery
its wilderness areas
its history
and its weird wildlife - to name but a few.

Pic: Low Head lighthouse at the mouth of the Tamar River on the North coast

The 'Spirit of Tasmania' - sails daily

The 'Spirit of Tasmania' is the name of the car ferry which sails daily between Melbourne and Devonport on the north coast of Tassie.
In fact there are two vessels of the same name and each depart at 7.00 pm for the 12 hour voyage across Bass Strait.
This is Tasmania's highway to the mainland.
Berth's are availablfe for the overnight trip or you can book an aircraft-like recliner seat. There is also a bar and two restuarants.
The sea on Bass Strait can be rough so if you get seasick, take your Quells.

Pic: It's 7.00 am and 'The Spirit' sounds her horn as she enters the Mersey River and sails into dock at Devonport.

Hobart - capital of Tasmania

Hobart town was settled in 1804.
Today it is a bustling city famous for its Salamanca Markets and variety of arts and crafts; its many original Georgian buildings; and Constitution Dock (destination of the Sydney to Hobart yacht races).

Pic: Salamanca square and monument to Abel Tasman the Dutch discoverer who is 1642 charted the west coast of Tasmania and named two of its Mountain peaks after his ships, the Heemskerck and Zeehaen.

Port Arthur - a reminder of convict days

The ruins at Port Arthur are a stark reminder of Tasmania's convict history.
This penal settlement was opened in 1833.
Tasmania - or Van Diemen's Land as it was originally called - was the dumping ground for England's convicts.
Many of the crimes which received a seven year sentence were very minot - such as stealing a handkerchief or a loaf of bread.
From 1803 to 1854 70,000 convicts were transported to the island.
Of these, 12,000 men and boys were sent to Port Arthur.
The average age was 26 years.
Many women convicts were also sent to Van Diemen's Land but they mainly went into the 'female factories'.

Sadly, from a historical point of view, the buildings were eventually gutted by bushfires.
More recently the Port Arthur Massacre brought this site to the world's attention.
There is a pool of reflection near the site of the old cafe in memory of the people who died in that horrific event.

Van Diemen's Land - The movie - appetizer to VDL's convict days

Alexander Pearce - the cannibal

For me, Jonathon auf der Heide's film, Van Diemen's Land did not go far enough. The title is somewhat misleading, as cinamagraphiically, the movie did not portray Van Diemen's Land (VDL) of the 1820s. It only provided a cameo picture of Tasmania's awesome West Coast wilderness forest which surrounds Macquarie Harbour.

Having known the movie was to be about Alexander Pearce, the cannibal, I was disappointed that the story's plot was no more than Pearce's first escape attempt along with seven other convicts.

(When he was captured, he admitted his crimes but his story seems too far fetched and he was not believed. The second time Pearce escaped he was found in possession of a human limb and was hung.)

After a few days in the forest, the eight men run out of food, and through frustration and anger begin to feed off each other. Like the lore of the sea, this seems almost logical under the circumstances.

Apart from the opening scene where the barefoot prisoners patiently await the order to swim to the waiting whaleboat, there is little indication of their festering desperation to escape from the hell-hole that was Sarah Island.

It was disillusioning for me to see convicts who were made to toil twelve hours in deplorable conditions and fed on incredibly meagre rations, looking fit and healthy, with perfect teeth and one at least with a neatly trimmed beard - and tall at that.
In dress and stature, producer Oscar Redding, who played Pearce, presented as the most convincing character.

The wilderness scenery of the Gordon and King Rivers area creates a chillingly haunting atmosphere, though to traverse those areas is even more difficult than depicted in the film. Unfortunatley, some of the scenes filmed in Victoria depict countryside which is foreign to the Macquarie watershed.

Having recently visited the area to learn about VDL's history, to walk across the site of the convict settlement (see earlier blog posts), and to cruise the waterways of the King and Gordon Rivers, I wanted more.

The convict history of Van Diemen's Land, in particular the settlement in Macquarie Harbour, is incredibly rich and disturbing. The movie Van Diemen's Land is a mere tempting appetizer.

The Gentleman Bushranger - Matthew Brady

Matthew Brady - Tasmania's 'gentleman' bushranger

Matthew Brady was just 20 when he was transported to Van Diemen's Land. Six years later he was hung from the gallows in Hobart Town. But what was it about Brady which endeared women to him so much that his trial had to be interrupted because of th...

Derwent River and Hobart from Mount Wellington

Mount Wellington overshadows the city of Hobart.
From the top you can look down on Hobart, the Derwent Bridge, the Casino and the River. In fact you can see to Bruny Island the Southern Ocean.
But be prepared for icy winds on the top as the wind blows straight up from Antarctica.
There was snow on the top when I was up there - it was August.

Ben Lomond - No this is not Scotland but in winter you can ski on the top!

Spectacular Bridges give spectacular views - Ranked as one of the TOP TEN railway journeys in the world

But it's the line itself, originally cut through the wilderness by hand and its 42 mainly trestle bridges which provide spectacular views of the King River as it winds its way through steep gorges and valleys. The Abt tourist railway is ranked as one of the top 10 railway experiences in the world.
The track is 35 kilometers long and runs from the fishing town to Strahan to Queenstown, a mining town in the mountains.

Tasmania's West Coast Wilderness Tourist Railway

With inclines as steep as 1 in 16, the engine uses a steam driven cogwheel which engages with the twin toothed rack rail which runs down the centre of the 3ft 6in gauge line. This rack and pinion system allows the engine to pull the train up the steep hills.
Along the journey are several stops including stations at Lynchford, where you try your hand at gold panning, Dubbil Barril with its own quaint history and Rinadeena where the railway reaches its highest point and the passengers disembark for lunch.

No 3 Engine - Abt Wilderness Railway

A legacy of the old mining methods on Tasmania's west coast is the Abt railway which runs between Queenstown and Strahan on the west coast of Tasmania.
This 35 km railway incorporates a Rack and Pinion system to carry a train up some incredible rises. The engines used today are the 100 year old Steam Locomotives that worked on the line built for the Mt Lyell Mining & Railway Company.
The full line opened in 1899 but ran into disrepair and closed in 1963.
After 37 years a group of enthusiasts decided to rebuild the line and after a massive restoration project the trains again steam through the wilderness forests.
While the rolling stock once hauled a fortune in pure copper, today's heritage style carriages carry tourists.

Horse riding in Cradle Mountain country

I'm not a rider, but I couldn't miss the opportunity to take a short ride in Cradle country.
As a novice I was surpised how steep the inclines were and amazed as we walked the horses through tracks littered with fallen trees, how well the horses picked their way through.

Pic: A clearing in the forest where we stopped for morning tea.

Grindelwald - an alpine village in Tasmania

Close your eyes and you can imagine you are in Switzerland.
Grindelwald village was the brainchild of Rolph Vos.
He built his village about twenty years ago.
All the houses in the surrounding area are built on the style of Swiss Chalets and they names of the street reflect that infulence, Eiger Court, Alpine Cresent - there is even a small hillock called the Tamerhorn - off course is play on the name of the name of the area for Grindelwald is in the Tamar Valley.

Pic: The town centre and village shops. There is a chocolate shop, a gift shop and cafe, and a very nice resort/hotel which I can recommend.
I visited Grindelwald when I first came to Tasmania - now I live in the village.

Beaconsfield Gold Mine

I had never heard of Beaconsfield until I heard of the mine disaster a couple of years ago.
The book, 'Bad Ground' is the story of Todd Russell and Brant Webb's remarkable rescue after the mine caved in on top of them.
Beaconsfield if only half and hour's drive from Launceston and the mine has a great museum which is well worth a visit.

Today Beaconsfield gold mine if fully operational.
It is the lifeblood of the tiny town.

Pic: Main shaft

On cloud Nine - Winter mist over the Tamar Valley

Have you ever been in a plane as the sun rose and the clouds turned pink beneath the aircraft?
It's an awesome sight.
On winter's mornings in the Tamar Valley the mist settles over the full width of the valley creating a supurb cloudscape.
As I live on the top of a ridge I look down on it.
It never fails to amaze me.

Ross Bridge - in the Midlands

Ross is an old settlement (by Australian standards) and it is located in the Midlands between Hobart and Launceston.
The bridge at Ross was built in 1836. On it are 186 carvings which were do good that they won the convict stonemason a free pardon.
The town has lots of heritage buildings, a delightul bakery with the original oven and plenty of antique shops.

Check out Van Diemen's Land's convict history on my Matthew Brady lens

Sailing into Coles Bay - east coast Tasmania

Whatever your favourite water pastime - sailing, skin diving, jet-skiing or paragliding - you will find it in Tasmania.
And in the waters around the island you will find everything from ocean going yachts to sailing dinghies to tall ships.
This year I sailed on The Lady Nelson, a replica brig (see link below) and we followed the boats in the The Peaks Race.

I took this photo as some of the competitors were sailing into Coles Bay.
The hadland behind is the Freycinet Peninsula and behind the spectacular Wine Glass Bay.

Bay of Fires - east coast

Towards the north of the east coast is an area of rocky costline which is well names. This is the Bay of Fires. I have seen it from the land and visited it on a sailing ship.
Sorry but my picture does not do it justice.

Cape Pillar on the isolated SE corner of Tassie

Cape Pillar - the highest sea cliffs in the southern hemisphere

These dolerite cliffs reach an amazing 330 meters in height.

That is twice as high as the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

The rock formation called the Tasman Arch, whichis a little further north, is 200 million years old.

Pic: taken from the deck of 'The Lady Nelson'

The Candlestick - a rock climbers heaven!

Not only one Holy Grail for rock climbers, but two.

Very close by (but not in picture is an even narrower single outcrop - well named - the Totem-pole.

The rock is dolerite of volcanic origin.

I'm afraid you wouldn't get me on the top of that even if I was lowered by a
helicopter!

You can visit Cape Pillar and The Candlestick from Doo Town on Tasman Island Cruises.

Woodbridge - a quite village on the D'Entrecasteaux Channel

It's early morning and I crept ashore before the rest of the crew woke up.
We had moored at Woodbridge for the night before heading off for Hobart that morning.
It was a picture perfect opportunity which I am glad I did not miss.

Launceston

Launceston in the north was settled before Melbourne in Australia.
And unlike most mainland cities much of the original architecture remains unchanged from the early days.
It is situated at the head of the Tamar River about 50 km from the north coast of Tasmania.
A stone's throw from the city centre is the Cataract George, a spectacular waterway cut through sheer rock.
It's a place for walkers, rock climbers and even attracts sea lions occasionally.

Pic: St Andrew's Church in the centre of Launceston

Clarendon House near Launceston - an example of Tasmanian architecture

But not all Tasmanian architecture carries such grand connotations.

In the early days it was the convicts who laboured to build the numerous sandstone buildings. Many of these fine Georgian buildings exist today.

Read about Van Diemen's Land bushranger, Matthew Brady on my link at the bottom of this page and learn more about the sold settlements.

The colour of England's 'Green and Pleasant Land'

Heading south of Hobart, almost as far as the road goes, the rolling hills and rich paddocks make you realise how fortunate the early British settlers were when they discovered this unspoiled land.
Much of Tasmania's wilderness is still waiting to be explored.

Opium poppies grown in profusion

The warning on the sign is quite clear:

KEEP OUT
Trespassers prosecuted
ILLEGAL USE OF CROP MAY CAUSE DEATH

Opium poppies are grown commercially in Tasmania for the pharmaceutical industry and this season (2009) the state will licence the largest crop ever to be planted - 24,000 hectares.
The fields of white poppies look striking when they are in bloom.

Bridstowe Lavender Farm

Tasmania is a small state with a population of only 500,000 people, but it has some big acrifultural pursuits.
Apart from its forests and timber production for which it is renowned, Tasmania has the biggest potato farm in Australia (may be the world?), huge fields of poppies, and also large lavender farms.

I took this pic in my garden. I think this is English lavender.

Echidna - an egg laying mammal

You came across them on the roads and tracks - sometimes even trundling along a beach.
These delightful little creatures look like a cross between a porupine and a English hedgehog, but they are quite different.
Echidnas (or Spiny ant-eaters) are monotremes - egg laying mammals.
There are only two animals in the world which are monotremes - one is the duck-billed platypus, the other is the echidna, and they both live in Tasmania.
When the echidna lays its eggs, it incubates them in its pouch and when the babies hatch it suckles them on milk.
Like a hedgehog or porcupine, it uses its sharp quills to protect itself.

Pic: Pair of echidnas at a wildlife park - though I have seen more of them in the wild than in a reserve.

Bennett's Wallaby

Unlike the mainland of Australia, Tasmania does not have kangaroos.
Instead it has a smaller version of marsupial - a wallaby.
Bennett's Wallabies are widespead.
They are only about 2 ft (60 cm) tall and their joeys are tiny.

Sadly they are so prolific many die on the roads.

I enjoy watching them as they scamper across my garden at dusk.
But they will help themselves to anything in the garden which looks appetising.

Tasmanian Schools Writers' camp - SW wilderness

Writers' Camp - in the far south wilderness

Tasmania is called the 'Island of Inspiration' and what better place to hold a writers' camp than in the south west wilderness forest on the banks of the Esperance River where the only ripples are created by the salmon jumping. It wa...

My pets pages - Newfoundland dogs and goats

Goats - angoras, Boers, cashmeres, dairys and even ferals

I ran goats of one variety or another for 17 years during which time I wrote numerous magazine articles about them, including many which appeared in the New Zealand 'Goat Farmer' magazine. ANGORAS, BOERS, CASHMERES, DAIRYS and even FE...

NEWFOUNDLAND DOGS - 'beauty without vanity...'

He is not trained to be noble and loyal - it is just part of his nature. And few dog breeds can equal the Newfoundland for courage. From the sinking of the Titanic to rescuing Napoleon, to heroism and death in the face of modern warfare; to the classic...

Unusual railways - Abt, funicular, cable and chain

Funicular, Abt, chain ferry, cable cars and other unusual railways

Funicular railways date back to 1515 but were most popular in late 1800s. The Abt rack and pinion railway system was built to combat very steep inclines. The underwater Chain ferry pulled a vehicular ferry across a river. Around the world...

My latest novel - THE CONDOR'S FEATHER - published July 2009

Set in Patagonia in 1885,
When a group of English aristocrats set off from England they had no idea of what lies ahead.
Read about this dramatic adventure and the true-life aristocrats on whom the story idea is based.

THE CONDOR'S FEATHER is selling well and in danger of selling out.
To order at a BIG discount price and with FREE WORLDWIDE DELIVERY go to:
THE BOOK DEPOSITORY.
UK buyers can order postage free from the publisher www.Halebooks.com

Join me on my travels around the world

Antarctica - Tierra del Fuego to the Antarctic Peninsula

It's a blue and white world at the bottom of the globe. And its cold! I was fortunate enough to cruise around a little of it recently, my voyage starting in Valpariso, Chile - sailing down the Chilean Fjords to Tierra del Fuego, across Drake Pass...

Go Cruising - Pacific Ocean to Caribbean via Panama Canal

On 23rd April, 2008, I sailed through the Panama Canal from the Pacific Ocean to the Atalntic. It was on a voyage from Santaigo in, Chile, South America to Boston, USA on the cruise ship, Norwegian Dream. As I had written a book set on the Leeds/Live...

Italy, Greek Islands, French Riviera - Cruising the Med

Join me on a cruise ship sailing around the Mediterranean. Starting with the sights and sounds of Rome, to Florence and Pisa. The French Riviera. Monaco. Scicily then on to the Greek Islands - Santorini, Mykanos. Travelling by cruishe ship is a great...

Sailing the Atlantic on a Tall Ship

What a voyage! - Join me as I sail across the North Atlantic following in the wake of the great adventurer's. Pass the Pillars of Hercules. See the house Columbus lived in. Meet King Neptune. Face gale force winds. Take the helm....

Buenos Aires, Argentina - the tango, the pampas and much more

A city of seduction. The tango - danced originally by men. The steaks - dinasaur size. The places to visit - unforgettable. The people - past and present. And plenty of pics. THE CONDOR'S FEATHER - an equestrian adventure set in Southern Patagonia in 1885....

Sailing the coast of Tasmania on a 1798 square rigger - The Lady Nelson

SAIL ON A TALL SHIP - live the adventure

It was a voyage to remember. I joined the replica LADY NELSON as she headed out into the notorious Bass Strait then sailed south to meet four meter swells on Storm Bay. In 1800 the original wooden colonial brig, was the first vessel to sail Bass Stra...

Sail with me on a tall ship

TALL SHIPS - 'Mary Rose' & 'Victory' to the modern day

When I visited the Royal Naval Dockyards in Portsmouth I was blown to pieces by the tall (historic) ships I visited. Imagine walking the decks on Nelson's 'Victory' and standing at the very spot on the deck where he fell!! Imagine step...

Sailing the Atlantic on a Tall Ship

What a voyage! - Join me as I sail across the North Atlantic following in the wake of the great adventurer's. Pass the Pillars of Hercules. See the house Columbus lived in. Meet King Neptune. Face gale force winds. Take the helm....

My novels

Published by Robert Hale Ltd, London

The Black Thread by Margaret Muir - canal story set 1895

British canals are steeped in history. Having been superceded by the railways in the late 1800s they fell into disrepair. But today they are modern and attractive and offer a popular and relaxing form of travel. The Black Thread, is my third no...

'Sea Dust' - dramatic story set on a tall ship

In order to escape the clutches of a drunken husband, Emma stows away on a sailing ship bound for Australia. Despite the help of a French sailor, nothing can protect her from the diabolical evil which lurks on board. Set in 1856 in Whitby, Cape Town...

The Twisting Vine - historical novel and hints on writing a book

THE TWISTING VINE is a saga set in Yorkshire in 1898 where times of peace and war, grief and joy are linked by the unobtrusive presence of a French Bru doll. If you have an interest in Antique French Fashion dolls or just enjoy a fast moving sto...

The Condor's Feather - the pampas of Patagonia on horseback

Mobs of wild horses, pampas winds, Tehuelche Indians, and mountain lions are just a few of the problems awaiting this unsuspecting group of English riders. Add to that four escaped convicts whose diabolical deeds defy comprehension..... It's said...

Do you like what you see of Tasmania?

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throughglasseyes throughglasseyes Nov 1, 2009 @ 2:43 pm | in reply to Bemused-in-Tasmania

Hi MM, thanks for dropping by, I left a comment on your Tasmania page.

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Bemused-in-Tasmania Bemused-in-Tasmania Sep 24, 2009 @ 8:21 pm

Great lens. I plan to list it as a favorite, My own lens re Tassie is less a travelogue and more of what-it's-like-living-in-Tassie. This one complements it beautifully. Well done!
My blog: https://meanderingmatriarch.wordpress.com also reflects on Tasmania, but other things as well. It's more of a humor column.

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