Several lovely samples of what we like at Past Perfect Vintage 

Outstanding 1950s Chiffon and Satin Evening Gown by Helena Barbieri

If you ask me, this gown from an Indianapolis estate is close to perfection. It's a late 1950s strapless evening gown in chocolate silk chiffon and silk satin bands in hot pink, orange, chocolate and peach. With flowers. And a matching silk satin stole. The color combination is just luscious. It's a Helena Barbieri, and once again, this gown shows her flair with evening wear. The bodice is boned and the metal zipper is hand set. The skirt is comprised of an extremely full chiffon overskirt with narrow chiffon and crepe columnar underskirt. The long double sided stole is orange and hot pink with self fringe.

Label: Helena Barbieri Original

Lovely 1870s Blue Gauze Summer Bustle Dress  

And now for a visual treat, we present this 1870s silk organza and silk bustle dress in soft aqua blue. This is how I imagine the girls of Edith Wharton's The Buccaneers being dressed. The woven windowpane plaid gauze has a yellowish tint that contrasts beautifully with the blue of the silk twill sleeves, pleatings and underskirt. The ribbons are a matching silk satin. The bodice has the contrast sleeves of the 1870s , with tripled row of covered buttons, pleated frills and ribbon bows, it is boned. The skirt has a draped overskirt with apron effect, side drapes and a back pouf of the organza. The underskirt is bleu twill with a stiffened hem. A lovely, soft lightweight summer gown of the period.

Early 1950s Jacques Fath for Joseph Halpert Silk Suit  

NEW LISTING This striking deep midnight blue silk taffeta suit is from the collaboration between Jacques Fath and Joseph Halpert that began in 1948. Both pieces are beautifully made. I know this line is always described as being "lower priced" than his couture line, but the quality is top notch RTW with hand finishing, padded peplum, and bound button holes, ( including the functional button skirt vent), and petersham waist band. The jacket is unlined form the waist up, the shirt is also unlined. The store label is a from a very nice ladies boutique in Louisville, KY.

Labels: Jacques Fath Paris New York designs for Joseph Halpert and Jenny Lind Louisville

Glorious Green Silk Faille 1880s Bustle Gown 

This 1880s bustle dress is a glorious shade of rich green for you bustle lovers who tire of the drab tones. The fabric is an ottoman faille in silk combined with a Japanese influenced obi style brocade in rust and gold. Lovely contrast. The bodice is petite, with brocade collar and cuffs, back drape and button front. There is an interior petersham and boning. The skirt has multiple layers with draping, pleating and shirring galore. The underskirt is a tan Silesia cotton.

Amazing 1910s Velvet & Tulle Dress By Arthur Weiss  

NEW LISTING If I have ever had a dress that called out Zelda Fitzgerald, this is the one. This amazing ca 1919 dress is a combination of black tulle and magenta red silk velvet. Wonderful! The skirt has 2 extremely full gathered tulle tiers over a slimmer silk underskirt, with the top one a gathered pouf, and both over a black silk lining. This is all suspended on a cream silk slip top with wide petersham waistband. The soft blouson velvet over blouse is worn over this and snaps into position at the waist. The large velvet bow is part of the blouse. What I can tell you about the maker is that I have seen a couple of examples from the later 1920s and into the 1940s.

Label: The Arthur Weiss Dress

Outstanding Black Silk and Lace Edwardian Gown ca 1912 

This outstanding draped 2 pc. gown is a reasonably sized find from the Edwardian era. These are getting like hen's teeth. It's loaded with line and detail. The asymmetrically draped and weighted skirt and bodice 'suspenders' are a soft black silk satin. The bodice is net with both a cream silk lining an lace overlays. The front has black silk chiffon as a trim and the sleeves have it as an under layer. The neckline and wrists are edged with a dull gold metallic braid. The separate sash is a black silk ribbon that hooks under a center back rosette.

Dramatic Deep Crown Straw 1920s Cloche  

This dramatic 1920s cloche is a fine navy blue straw with asymmetric swept brim. The deep crown is emphasized with a wide, wide toned silk grosgrain ribbon band that is artfully twisted and tacked for a three dimensional effect. The brim edge is bound in the same grosgrain. The lining is original.

Label: Harry Hayman New York Paris

1920s Era Embroidered Silk Chinese Jacket  

We always called these mandarin style although I am sure there is a much more accurate Chinese language name. This one is a lovely black silk with pale blue piping and richly tinted embroidered flowers in silk and gold. It is a small size, possibly for a large child. The fronts are closed by narrow embroidered tabs that loop over . There is also a working frog and knot closure at the collar. The rest of the frogs are decorative. Lined in pink cotton. We have shown this jacket on a small , but adult sz 33" bust form.

Condition: Excellent, virtually mint.

Rust Chiffon 1921 - 22 Beaded Gown Art Deco at it's Finest 

A fantastic example of Art Deco styling form the early 1920s. This gown is rust brown silk chiffon ( impossible to photo!) over matching silk satin. The beading is done on net in sequins and glass bugle beads while the sleeves and neckline are edges with faceted jet. The slighy dropped waist combined with the interior silk bodice e liner and wide petersham waistband mark it as a transitional gown from the Teens to the 20s. The sash is black silk moiré ribbon with velvet roses at the waist. The neckline is edged with narrow moiré ribbon. The chiffon skirts are 4 panels that fall in scarf like points.

Glorious ca. 1959 3 Pc Pauline Trigere Suit 

This glorious heavy winter weight wool suit in a novelty weave is a wonderful indication of what Trigére could do with wool. And it has a cape - her favorite. This is one of 3 Trigere suits from the Indianapolis estate of a woman with great style and the resources to express it. The suit is comprised of 3 pieces: a tailored wool skirt, a knit over blouse and a matching cape. The skirt is straight and fully, lined in tan silk with a side metal zipper. The tan over blouse has bound button holes , a self tie , a tan silk partial lining and an added oyster silk lining. The cape is flat lined in taffeta and lined in the tan knit to match the blouse with a large cookie button, shaped shoulders and welt arm slits. It takes great assurance to carry off this strong a statement.

Labels: Trigére New York in the blouse ( under the added lining) , and Pauline Trigére in the cape

Sharp and Chic Pauline Trigere Wool Cape and Skirt Set  

I really admire Pauline Trigére's work. Her sense of style was great, and her ability to cut and drape was superb. She proved herself a master of the large scale plaid - certainly an area many designers shrink from. This set is so bold - a large scale black and camel plaid in a circular cape with a double breasted bound buttonhole front ( all buttons are functional) and companion straight cut skirt with small waist tucks. The construction is super. The cape is fully lined in black linen and interlined with organza, and has matching linen control bands at each side so the folds will always fall as they should. The skirt is interlined with organza and lined in silk with a handset zipper. Pair this up with a black cashmere turtleneck and a stunning necklace, and you will be noticed!

Labels: Pauline Trigere and Hallé Bros. Specialty Shop

Perfectly Tailored 1959 Wool Tweed 3 Pc Pauline Trigere Suit  

This perfectly tailored 3 pc suit in a heavy winter weight grey and oyster tweed wool shows Trigére's way with heavy fabrics. This is one of 3 Trigere suits from the Indianapolis estate of a woman with great style and the resources to express it. The suit is comprised of 3 pieces: a tailored wool skirt, a knit blouse with belt and a matching jacket. The skirt is straight and fully lined in oyster silk with a side metal zipper. The oyster wool short sleeve knit blouse has bound button holes, covered buttons, a matching belt, and is unlined. The jacket is lined in the matching oyster silk and has large angled patch pocket and a wide collar.

Please see the Kent State Trigere Collection for a sketch of this ensemble in her 1959 Fall Collection.

Labels: Pauline Trigére in the blouse and jacket, L.S. Ayres in the jacket

Beautifully Cut Late 1940s Adrian Jacket 

Adrian must have loved the subtle lines of the decorative curved seam. This jacket features not only V seamed front and the oval set in at the yoke area, but a shield shaped center back panel. Typical of Adrian's suits, the left sleeve is a plain 2 piece suit sleeve with the right has another curved set in seam with an applied cuff. It also has a double collar, with the lower one set in a circular seam at the base of the neck. Just a little Adrian magic. The buttons are heavy acorns with silver metal tops and gold glass bottoms. Bound buttonholes and black silk crepe lining.

Label: Adrian Original & Stewart's Louisville

Sculptural Straw 1950s High Style Hat  

This cream and black straw percher style hat from the 1950s is really a 3 dimensional piece of sculpture. The crown is a cream woven fabric, very simple, and it's the brim that makes the statement. This is an amazing 3-D basketwork effect in black sturdy straw. I love it. The center back is finished with a black velvet rouleau bow. Interior ribbon band, elastic back band.

Label: Gage Bros. & Co. since 1856 Chicago New York

1950s Ceil Chapman Midnight Blue Silk Satin Cocktail Dress 

This mid 1950s draped satin dress by Ceil Chapman is a lovely example of her swathed shelf bust bodices paired with an extravagantly draped skirt. The color is a deep blue - a midnight shade in silk satin. I love the rose peeking out of the folds. The dress is lined in taffeta, with a CB metal zipper.

Label: Ceil Chapman

Remarkable Green Silk 1830s Bonnet 

This remarkable 1830s bonnet is a wonderful deep green silk with deep crown and enormous brim. The back is finished with a box pleated bavolet with contrast header. And the side is set with yellow and green satin ribbon rosettes. The ties do not match - one is original the other is most likely a later 19th C replacement. The interiors structure is visible due to the lack of lining.

Early 19th Century Hand Made Horn Comb  

I have a weak spot for this large simple horn combs of the early 19th Century. This style was popular for a extended period, from 1800 - 1830s even. The cow horn was treated and clarified, then stained in mottled browns in an attempt to duplicate the most expensive pale tortoiseshell. This were made by often itinerant comb makers, sawing each tooth by hand, Quite the undertaking. Because the teeth are so long and thin, they are often broken. This comb is quite large and curved to hug the back of the head. And amazingly, it has all its teeth. These early combs are not as elaborate as the later Victorian and Edwardian ones, but were highly valued and are one of a kind.

Edwardian Black and Amber Celluloid Back Comb with Rhinestones  

This large and attractive Edwardian era comb is a beautifully designed piece in black celluloid with light amber edges and scrollwork. The stones are a bright clear white and are a flashing contrast to the smooth black sections

A Short History of Louisville Department Stores 

at pastperfectvintage.com

They were unique. They were of their time. And they were ours. And now, they are all but gone. Like so many other American cities, Louisville once had scores of local clothing stores that were institutions. One grew up and learned to shop were one's mother and aunts shopped, not unlike following family traditions regarding one's choice of church, doctor and attorney. Ladies went downtown to shop to the flagship buildings of Stewart's, Selman's or Kaufman - Straus or a bit later to the Art Deco Byck's. If you went to Stewart's, you wore a hat and gloves and went to lunch on the Orchid Tea Room. If you were a doctor, you shopped at Martin's; a banker at Rodes-Rapier.

Shopping downtown was an all day experience, walking from store to store along 4th St. complete with lunch at Stewart's or Kaufman's and even a movie afterward. The corner of 4th and Walnut ( now Muhammad Ali Blvd.) was known as the 4 S's Corner for the Seelbach Hotel, Selman's, the Stark's Bldg. and Stewart's. Of the stores profiled below, only 3 are still in existence - and neither have venues downtown. The buildings of many remain, incorporated into new uses, while the clothing and hats continue to come out of estates and turn up in vintage clothing shops.

For photos and individual store histories, see
pastperfectvintage.com/louisvillestores.htm

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Links we reccommend heartily 

Past Perfect Vintage

We have to list our own site first, don't we?

Past Perfect Vintage Blog

Where we ramble on about vintage clothing I have known

Ann Jenkins Jewelry

Some of the best modern art jewelry you will ever see. Natural objects treated as jewels.

The Vintage Fashion Guild

A great source of Vintage Fashion information

Fuzzy Lizzie

A delightful Vintage Clothing site: part blog, part sales, part education

CoStar Vintage Clothing Resource

wonderful resource with photos of period garments

Vintage Fashion Guild Members

Check it out - loads of vintage clothing sites

Biddington's US Patent Numbers

How very handy when you have a patent number laying around

The Lace Fairy Lace Identification

the name says it all.

The Louisville Civil War Round Table

Because there is more in life to get excited about than Vintage Fashion, and history is one of those things.

It's the Past Perfect Guest Book! 

joules_etsy Stunning to see it all like this. Lovely page! Posted June 18, 2008

janieruth Outstanding lens, check out my eBay store and ME page at eBay - Janieruth's Fabulous to Funky Finds there yo will see a Ceil Chapman beaded cocktail dress that I sold on eBay. It was gorgeous! On my Squidoo lens, you will be able to get a backstage pass for OSI Rock Stars, check that out also! Your lens Rocks! janieruth Posted January 25, 2008

Interesting to read your lens, I rated 5 stars. My kind request visit my lens about Clothing Alterations Posted August 08, 2007

docwoman Lovely fashions and lens! Five stars for sure! Posted July 30, 2007

camelbackcat Beautiful Page...I love it! camelbackcat Posted July 21, 2007

amandaquerque Thank you for being a valuable member of the Vintage Clothing Group! Be sure to add your store link to the Super Shopping Mall! Posted July 20, 2007

amandaquerque I have featured your lens on my new Shopping Mall lens! Visit Posted July 07, 2007

thegatherings Beautiful and well done site. I enjoyed my visit. Posted July 02, 2007

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