Perfume Creations

There are around 5000 base aromas known to perfumers, of which around 2000 are used in commercial perfumery, and less than 500 on a regular basis.

Practically all fine frangrances are constructed in layers.

A top note layer gives the perfume accent. Top notes are relatively short-lived volatile components whose main job is provide initial impact and cover the alcohol evaporation aromas.

Next comes the middle notes, the heart of the perfume. Middle notes are more enduring and are the most distinguishable character of the perfume. Middle notes are often florals or oriental/spicy smells or aromatic resins.

Finally we have base notes. These are the longest lasting elements and round the perfume off. Base notes tie the others together and can add richness, depth and warmth. Woody, herby, mossy extracts are commonly used base notes.

So with your palette of many colours (or aromas), how do you start choosing what you want and go about putting it all together?

A master perfumer spends many years in training. There are just a few hundred of these individuals in the world who, with their knoweldge and trained sense of smell, create most of the world's fragrances and flavourings.

Their skill is in knowing, generally, which elements match, which contrast or accent, which compliment or clash, which add tone and character. Of course the nose is king, and exact blends are iterations and refinements - a touch more of this or less of that, a slightly sweeeter lavender, a less acidic neroli, a press or an extraction, a romanian rose absolu rather than a bulgarian, a touch of leaf to go with the petal.

We can't all be master perfumers, but by using blends systems such as the Perfume Studio system (www.myperfumeparty.co.uk/mpp-blends.htm) you can create some very beautiful perfumes safe in the knowledge that complex stuff of base blend creation has been done for you. This system of 18 blends (tops, middle and bases) gives millions of combinations. So depending on your personal tastes you CAN create your own beautiful perfume, which will probably be unique - very much YOUR perfume.

Follow your nose! Not everyone likes the same thing, that's what makes bespoke deisgn so entriguing. However, there are some themes, that *generally* apply.

The Gender Divide - Male and female preferences tend to be distinct, male fragrance choices are more sporty, more bitter, more sharp whilst female selections are more floral, more sweet, more gentle, more elegant. However there are some frgrances which are distinctly unisex - citrus, amber and some of the orientals tend to bridge the gender divide.

The 30s Rule - When we are young, our taste buds are most focused on sweet or sour. As we grow older we begin to appreciate bitter, salty, spicy, hot tastes. So too our noses become more aware of more aromas and our preferences and palettes expand. We tend to find our under 30's like quite sweet, fruity perfumes, whilst the 30 somethings' choices are french vanilla, aldehydes and woods, the more complex components.

Fragrant Memories - Perfume is an evocateur. When we smell things it brings back former memories or provokes emotional reponses. Just ponder for a moment on these aromas -

• Fresh cut grass,
• meadow flowers,
• furniture polish,
• wood smoke,
• mossy forest floors,
• strawberries,
• salty sea breeze,
• orange blossom,
• coconut

The chances are some, if not all, of those brought back quite vivid memories or stirred emotions, probably mostly good.

Sexual Chemistry - We use smell in general and perfume in particular to attract our mates. Whilst many phermones are odourless, there are certain aromas we link with attraction. Musky and amber smells and also mossy and patchouli bases, act on our subconcious and appeal to our animalistic nature. So those in love or looking for love will often choose these elements in fragrance selection.

Generation Gap - Pulling on both the 30's rule and the fragrant memory themes, there are observable generation divides. Those who formative years were the war/post-war 1940s and 50s have different fragrance memories than those who grew up in the liberal 60s and 70s, and different again those who grew up in the bustling 80s and sterile 90s (the allergy genration?). Lavender is often a signpost, as are pine and patchouli, rose and jasmine fragrances. The reactions to these elements an be quite marked between generations!

That said, everyone is individual. You may have found some pointers from above, but the key rule is follow your own nose.

With thousands upon thousands of beautiful perfumes on the market, why would you want to create your own?

Individuality - The most common reason, I think, is a question of individuality. We each like to be a bit different - not too different, that borders on exclusion - but a little different. Something that sets us apart or above, that makes us unique, a one off. A bespoke perfume, is exactly that, distinctive, personal, individual, adding that extra piece of intrigue to our persona. This is me.

Make me feel special - every now and again, we all love to be pampered, complimented, praised, seduced even. We like to feel special. So we wrap oursleves in feel-goods, that aim to attract that special attention we desire - we dress ourselves in beautiful clothes, we style our hair, adorn ourselves with jewellery, and to top it off, wear our perfume to make us smell like a million dollars.

Too much choice - You must have wandered through a perfume store or airport, and been beguiled by the choice. Sometimes it can be totally over-whelming. How much better to be guided in creating your own perfume, a controlled journey, that will leave you not bewildered but delighted in having created your own exquisite perfume.

You know what you like - As we go through life we collect fragrance memories, aromas that remind of events, of people, of places - smells that are special to us and our life story. Often it is difficult to describe or even adequately remember those fragments of fragrances, but a whiff of one of them will reignite those synapses. The perfume creation process can bring memories flooding back and allow you to combine elements of your life in a perfume that is uniquely yours.

Re-Creation - Commercial perfumes come and go. Of course a few classics stand the test of time, Chanel No.5 being the paramount exmaple, but often fragrances are simply retired. Although it is improbable you will be able to accurately recreate a discontinued perfume, you can probably assemble something in the style of, that will fill that gap.