Answers To the Most Commonly Asked Veterinary Questions
Ranked #3,881 in Healthy Living, #69,680 overall
Answers about fleas, worms, potty training, and more right here!
There are many repetitive and commonly asked pet questions. Certain questions are usually brought up during routine veterinary examinations or are asked via phone or email. Some email or phone inquiries are made by pet owners who are not current patients and are just seeking general information. The majority of questions are regarding fleas, intestinal worms, heartworm, pet training/behavior problems and other pet illnesses. I have provided examples of some of the more common questions and the answers provided to the pet parents. I will continue to add more but feel free to request topics and leave comments.
One thing veterinarians, technicians, and veterinary receptionists never run out of are questions from clients. We try to answer and educate them as thoroughly and in as easy-to-understand terms as possible. Never feel you're asking a "dumb question" because any question is a good question. Responding to these inquiries is part of our job and for you, it's an important part of responsible pet ownership. Just as a parent asks the pediatrician questions about their child, so should you ask your veterinarian questions about your pets.
You can also find me on
What You'll Find Here
- Common Questions About Worms
- Canine Agression
- The Scoop About Puppy Poop
- Sick Of Failed Potty Training? Here's Help!
- Cool Toys For Your Furry Family Members
- When Fleas Take Over
- MOST RECOMMENDED NEW PRODUCTS:
- Kitty Troubles-Inappropriate Urination
- My Idol: Ceasar Millan, The Dog Whisperer
- Animal Advocacy
- For Your Love of Dogs
- Important List to Keep on Hand!
- When Dogs Train US
- Have a Pet Question?
- Love Dogs? You'll Love These!
- When Pets are "Scooting"
- Do You Breed, Neuter or Neither?
- Insect Stings & Bites in Pets
- $5,000 Reward!
- Intestinal Worms in Cats
- HEARTWORM TREATMENT
- Parvovirus ("Parvo") Protection, Recognition & Treatment
- When Pets Come in Contact With Frogs & Toads
- 10 Most Common Pet Poisons of 2009
- Beautiful Artwork to Show Off Your Love of Dogs
- Dog Breath. Peeeeewwie!
- Got Feedback, Questions, Comments?
Common Questions About Worms
Q: "How do you know if your dog has worms? Besides looking in their stool, what are other symptoms? Can this harm humans? Should I be worried?"
A: Not all intestinal parasites (worms) can be seen in the stool by the naked eye. Most commonly, Tapeworms can be seen. They look like a flat grain of rice. The most frequently found parasites in dogs are Hookworms, Tapeworms, Roundworms, Whipworms, and Coccidia. If the dog is experiencing weight loss, diarrhea or blood in the stool, those can be some symptoms of worms. Sometimes, a dog scooting their rear along the carpeting or ground can also be a indication. (Most often, that symptom is due to full anal glands.) The only way to actually know if your dog has worms is to have a veterinarian perform a fecal exam. You can bring in a fresh stool sample or usually, we can extract some at the office. Then, we will look at the sample under a microscope. If evidence is discovered, we will deworm the dog. Most of the time, you will have to retreat in 3 to 4 weeks. Some intestinal parasites can be passed on to humans, such as Hookworms. Hookworms can also be contracted by running barefoot around an area which may contain feces or contaminated soil. That is how dogs get it, too. If they walk on soil or through contaminated feces, then lick their feet, that is one common way of contracting it. It is rare that a human contracts worms from their pet, but it can happen. The best thing to do is to make sure to keep sanitary, such as keeping your dog's waste area clean and washing your hands after word. Also, avoid letting your dog lick your lips or anywhere you may have contact orally. It's always a good idea to have your dogs fecal checked twice a year. Usually, vets will offer the simple test when you're in for routine vaccinations. If you ever notice fleas on your dog, watch for Tapeworms. When a pet grooms himself and ingests a flea, that is one way they get tapeworms. Intestinal parasites are usually quite easy to treat. If you are worried, have a fecal test performed. (They aren't very expensive and you can have the results in less than 10 minutes.)
Canine Agression
Training In Action By The Best
The Scoop About Puppy Poop
Potty Training 101
Q: "My 9 week old puppy is eliminating all over the place! What do I do? Sometimes he goes on the paper, but he misses a lot. He eliminates in every room and only sometimes outside. How can I train him to go only outside?"A: First, let me just say that he is only a baby and his muscle control is not strong enough to control his physical urges on his own yet. However, it is never too soon to start the training process. Also, just a note of advice, if he is not neutered, consider having that done when he is old enough to do so. It will help with training, behavior, and general health for his future. For now, the best things to use when housetraining are a crate (big enough only to stand up, turn around and lay down,) a collar and leash, some treats, and definitely time and patience. Never make his crate (which he will regard as his "personal space/den" as a punishment.) It should always be his sanctuary and happy place.
It is very important to pick a spot for your dog to eliminate. Using the same spot each time will help the puppy recognize that this is where he should go, and will recognize the smell from going there before.
I never recommend puppy pads or paper training. If you want your dog to always go potty in the house forever in one dedicated area, this method will work. If you want to train the dog to eliminate outside forever, that method will either not work. I always tell my clients to "think like a dog!" It sounds funny, but it works. For instance, hitting a newspaper beside him when he misses the exact spot will confuse him. What he's thinking is, "Well, this is the area that I thought was okay, but now I'm getting scolded." He doesn't know that paper or a certain area inside the house is the acceptable area. Why? Because he's a dog. Dogs often times cannot tell the difference between paper and a floor or rug. All they know is its ok to go potty in the house so any area under the roof seems acceptable to him. So, never use paper training and start from the beginning using only "it's only acceptable to potty outside." (Keeping in mind there WILL be several "accidents" inside the house due to his immature muscle control and the simple fact that he's a baby.) Also, trying to paper train a dog and then trying to switch him to going outside is confusing for him. He's thinking, "well, it was okay to go in the house before so why is it not okay now?" Take him out on a leash and give the command, "Go Potty" or "Hurry up." Whatever you choose is fine but be consistent with that command. As he is eliminating, praise him. As soon as he's finished, really praise him! If he tries to play when you take him out to eliminate, ignore him and give him the go potty command. (Don't mix being outside to play vs. outside to go potty during potty training.) If he just won't go, bring him back into the house, put him in his crate (DO NOT punish him, but just put him into it.) 10 or 15 minutes later, take him back outside on leash and give the command. Keep him on a regular feeding schedule. He will usually have to eliminate around 10 to 15 minutes after eating. Until he is at least around 4 to 6 months of age, he will need to eliminate immediately after awakening, eating, napping, or playing.Before you know it, he'll be trained and the both of you will be happy. I know potty training can be frustrating and a bit time consuming but just try to keep in mind that he wants to please you just as much as you want him to be a good dog.
Sick Of Failed Potty Training? Here's Help!
Guaranteed Success in 7 days or less!
Why would anyone accept a dog that pees and/or poops all over the house for you to have to clean up when they do not have to? I don't know!
Just think about this for a minute... I am serious, look ahead one year from now when your dog is full grown you are still coming home everyday to get on your hands and knees with a spray bottle of cleaner. Forget having to explain the huge and nasty stains on your floor. Forget not being able to take your dog to your friends house for the night. Would it not have been easier to house train them in the first place?
Don't let it get that far. Do not be the person your friends talk about behind your back.
There is an immediate, downloadable, easy step by step guide to provide you with the best tool and information for having a Fully House trained Puppy or Adult Dog! It is also 100% GUARANTEED and the best part is that it's under 10 bucks! To Potty Train your dog in 7 days or less,
Click Here!
Cool Toys For Your Furry Family Members
CitiKitty Cat Toilet Training Kit
Everything you need to toilet train your cat in one more...0 points
StarMark Clicker
Training your dog with a Triple Crown Clicker can more...0 points
Hartz Hartz Running Rodent Cat Toy
Pull this toy s tail, stand back and watch the cat more...0 points
Chuckit! Ultra Ball, 2 Balls per Pack
2 Pack Ultra Ball, Designed For The Most Demanding more...0 points
Pet Crafts: 28 Great Toys, Gifts and Accessories for Your Favorite Dog or Cat by Heidi Boyd
This book offers fun projects for the whole family more...0 points
When Fleas Take Over
Q: "How can we rid our dog of fleas? It's so bad, even we're getting bit."A: If the humans in the household are getting bit by fleas, you definitely have an infestation. There are products available to treat and protect against fleas from your veterinarian. The most recommended topical application products (liquid that you apply to the skin down the back) would be either *Frontline Plus or *Advantage. *Revolution works pretty well and is also used as a Heartworm preventative. I have had great results after recommending Frontline Plus for even the most severe infestations of fleas (and it also kills ticks.)
* Bayer (Advantage)
* Merial (Frontline Plus)
* Pfizer (Revolution)
If the dog spends time indoors, the best thing to do for the house after treating him would be to vacuum everything you can and throw the vacuum bag out of the house. (Not in the kitchen garbage or anywhere else inside the house.) Then, wash everything you can wash such as bed linens, blankets, etc. Next, apply a spray or powder to the environment including inside couch cushions and under tables and beds. A good powder to use is Boric acid but your vet can also recommend safe and effective products for inside the home and for your yard. If you treat carpeting, try not to vacuum for at least a week or two, otherwise, you may vacuum up the treatment. You want to try to keep the product in the environment for as long as possible. Repeat the whole procedure in 2 to 3 weeks, including applying the flea treatment you choose on the dog. Just a note, get the flea medication for the dog at a vet's office, not an 800# or on-line pet meds place. Those products are NOT backed by the manufacturing companies or by your vet and are most likely imitations even if it looks the same. Definitely don't buy similar types of products for the treatment of the pet in your grocery store or other over-the-counter stores. I have seen way too many serious reactions to those. One more suggestion: if you use Advantage Multi and wish to bathe the dog within the time period that your dog is treated with it, use a soap-free shampoo. If you use Frontline Plus, try not to bathe 2 days before or 2 days after applying. These tips are to assure the product works the best.
But wait! There's more!
MOST RECOMMENDED NEW PRODUCTS:
These are the newest & most suggested products by veterinarians!
COMFORTIS-(spinosad) Oral anti-adult flea pill given once a month**Starts killing of fleas within 30 minutes of administration and is 100% efficacious within 4 hours.
**5 sizes for dogs
**Chewable beef flavored tablets (pork based) and can be given to pets sensitive to beef **Recommended to be given on a FULL stomach
**Provides 30 days of adult flea control
**Available only through veterinarians.
**Environmentally friendly. Has been awarded a Presidential GREEN Chemistry Challenge award in 1999 from the U. S. Environmental Protection Agency.
Promeris- (Metaflumizone) is a topical anti-adult flea protection
**Dog formulation for 4 types of tick control!
**Waterproof.
**Continues working after bathing or frequently bathing of allergy patients
**Using monthly is recommended, although labeled for up to 6 weeks of flea control
**It is FDA approved by veterinary prescription only
Advantage Multi- (imidacloprid + moxidectin) Topical Solution that is administered monthly and applied directly to your pet's skin. Keep in mind, cats are being diagnosed with Heartworm Disease, too! Protection for dogs AND cats is crucial.
**Kills adult fleas and controls flea infestations.
**Treats and controls intestinal worms such as hookworm, whipworm, & roundworm **Also prevents heartworm disease, Scabies & Earmites!
**Available for dogs and cats!
("No Flea" photo courtesy Southbark_photos)
Kitty Troubles-Inappropriate Urination
Q: "I have two new kittens and 2 adult cats. One of the kittens seems to be suddenly peeing all over the house, especially on my bed and clothes. Why is this happening?"
A: There could be a few different reasons as to why this your kitten is urinating around the house. The first thing that needs to be evaluated is her physical condition. With cats, urinating around the house is a common sign of a possible urinary tract infection or a bladder infection. Antibiotics from your vet can clear up the problem. If, after a vet visit, she is found to be healthy, then we are dealing with a behavioral problem. If that turns out to be the case, there are some things you can try to resolve the issue. Make sure to have at least one litter box per cat in the household. Cats are very clean and sanitary animals and sometimes, if the cat herself or even another cat in the house has used it, they refuse to use the box. Also, you can try changing the type of litter, such as changing from granular to sand (scoopable) and/or try a covered litter box if you don't already have one. Another thing you can try would be to place a litter box on the spot that the cat frequently, inappropriately uses. Then, slowly move the litter box back to the regular spot about an inch a day until back in place. Keep the litter boxes as clean as possible at all times. As I said, you need to have any physical ailments ruled out before looking to behavioral.
My Idol: Ceasar Millan, The Dog Whisperer
Animal Advocacy
Please HELP spread the word about this barbaric, yet legal form of animal abuse! Find this design and many more at For Animal Advocates and show the world your message!
For Your Love of Dogs
A Classic! The Scratching Beagle Art Print
Important List to Keep on Hand!
- ASPCA | People Foods
- Have you heard that a specific product or substance could be dangerous to your pets? Our experts at the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center set the record straight on a variety of substances, from cleaning products to popular houseplants.
When Dogs Train US
Food Issues
A: You're definitely correct about dog food being much better for her. It doesn't sound like she has any trouble with her teeth, mouth or swallowing, so it really sounds behavioral. What you should do is go into Operation Tough Love! You need to stick with a decent brand of puppy food and water. That's it. She'll get 3 feeding times per day. Put her food down and lead her to it. If she hasn't started eating it after 15 minutes, pick it up and she doesn't get anything (including treats) until her next scheduled feeding time. Repeat again and again. What this will tell her is, "If I don't eat this and eat it now, I'm not going to eat!" It may take a few days but don't give in and give her what she wants OR change the dog food thinking she's going to starve. She won't. If we keep changing their food they become more and more finicky eaters. She's training you to give her what she wants to eat. (It's very easy for dogs to do that to us humans without us even realizing it!) She will eat the puppy food when she gets hungry enough. This is a very common problem but it's one that is easily fixed.
Have a Pet Question?
It is nearly impossible to accurately diagnose any condition, injury, or illness over the phone or internet, however, we can often give possibilities as to what the problem may be and offer solutions. If and when we are presented with questions such as the examples I've provided, we always recommend a visit to the veterinarian. Although, in some cases, the pet owner cannot afford even the cost of the initial office visit. So, we do our best to offer information so the pet parent can check for certain symptoms on their own and if found, try certain home remedies if applicable. Keeping that in mind, if you do have a question, you can ask Veterinary experts like yours truly, any question right now!
SquiDirectory - Visit the SquiDirectory Squidoo directory, and find other interesting things to read about!
Love Dogs? You'll Love These!
When Pets are "Scooting"
Q: "Why is my dog scooting?"
A: Scooting is mostly due to full anal glands, however, it is also occasionally due to intestinal parasites and the irritation (tickling sensation) they create. Keep in mind that even if your vet has physically emptied your dogs' anal glands, the next time she has a BM, they may not express, thus filling up again and causing her to scoot (aka rub her butt along the floor or ground.) The other reason a dog may scoot is due to fecal matter stuck to their anus, or hair/fur or possibly the fecal matter is stuck between their anus and the ground. They will often rub (or "scoot") along the ground or even the rug or floor if it is caught. If the latter could possibly be the situation and you can notice fecal matter stuck, CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY remove it by pulling with a paper towel. She will most likely also express her anal sacs (so beware!) It is a good thing if she does but the smell may get on you and can be a bit unpleasant! If the vet did not perform a fecal exam for worms, have that done and also, have him or her teach you how to physically empty your girls' anal glands yourself at home if and when necessary. This is not an uncommon thing. Please let me know if I can assist you any further.
Do You Breed, Neuter or Neither?
The Pet Overpopulation Crisis
- Your Pets: Do You Breed, Neuter or Neither?
- Approximately 3 to 4 million cats and dogs, many healthy and young, are euthanized in animal shelters or by animal control agencies every year. Other unwanted, homeless animals suffer a far worse fate by existing for years in 'no-kill shelters' that refuse to euthanize any animal even if ill...
Insect Stings & Bites in Pets
Q: "My puppy has a swollen bump and it looks like there is a very tiny black dot in the middle of the bump. What could this be?"A: It sounds as if he or she was probably stung by a bee, wasp, or hornet. Signs and symptoms usually occur within about 20 minutes of the bite or sting. Animals should be observed for at least 12-24 hours after a reaction, as mild symptoms may progress in severity. Swollen eyes and a "knot" or swollen bump are typical signs of a sting or bite. Bites and stings from wasps, ants, and bees are common on areas with shorter haired or hairless areas (such as feet or belly) but are very common on the face, head, and even inside the mouth.
Stings and bites tend to produce local swelling and possible pain or tenderness, which takes about an hour to subside. If you do see a stinger, don't use tweezers to remove it. The reason is with honey bees, for instance, they inject the entire venomous stinger apparatus which is torn from the insect's body after stinging and remains attached to the victim. Their stinger contains muscle tissue that may continue contracting, which will continue injecting more venom if and when pulled directly out. It is better to gently scrape the stinger out with a credit card or gently and carefully with a sterile razor blade.
So, remove stinger if possible. Apply a paste of baking soda and water to the sting or bite to relieve the itching. Also, for pain and/or itching, you can take a cotton ball and dab ammonia or calamine lotion to the area. You can apply an ice pack or cold compress to help with the swelling, too. If the problem still exists within the next day or two or if there are any changes in the puppy such as vomiting, lethargy, or any other ailments, contact your veterinarian immediately. You can also call your vet and ask if it is okay to give Benedryl and what dosage to your puppy, too.
$5,000 Reward!
Be A Part of the Solution!!The Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) offers a reward of up to $5,000 for information leading to the arrest and conviction of anyone involved in dog fighting or cockfighting.
They also offer rewards for specific animal cruelty cases, at the request of local law enforcement, to assist in apprehending perpetrators.
Call The HSUS for more information. If you have questions about the reward program, please call them at 202-452-1100 or click HERE: Humanesociety
Intestinal Worms in Cats
A: Absolutely. Some, if not most intestinal parasites are microscopic, and the only way to diagnose them is by microscopic examination of your cat's feces for the eggs shed by the adult worms. Others are large enough to be observed in your cat's bowel movements or after he or she vomits. Some tapeworms produce segments called proglottids, which make up their body. The segments can be seen around the hair on the anus or in the stool, appearing as what may look like moving grains of rice.
Other frequently seen parasites in cats are roundworms, hookworms, stomach worms, tapeworms, and other microscopic parasites such as Coccidia and Giardia. Ingestion of the eggs is the basis. Most infections are acquired when a cat licks areas where other cats have defecated. It can also be contracted at birth. Many kittens are born with intestinal parasites (usually roundworms) that have been passed from the mother.
A very, very common worm such as the tapeworm comes from a transitional host. Tapeworms are transmitted when a cat swallows a flea or eats a rabbit or rat.
Common symptoms of worms include anemia, skin lesions/sores, diarrhea, vomiting, nausea, noticeable increase or decrease of appetite, and sometimes excessive licking around the anus.
HEARTWORM TREATMENT
Q: "My 5 year old dog was diagnosed with stage 1 Heartworm disease. What is the treatment and after care for this? Will she survive?"A: Heartworm disease is contracted from mosquitos. It is a very intense treatment for a dog to go through. The most recent and common treatment includes a one week in-hospital treatment period, then four weeks later, an over night treatment, and follows by weekly re-checks for at least 4 weeks to make sure the dog is checking out clear of heartworms and the microfilaria (baby heartworms.) However, many veterinarians have a few different and preferred treatments. Stage 4 is considered the most severe as stage 1 is the least. When the stage is diagnosed, the age and general health of the dog is considered. Your girl is considered young enough and healthy enough to withstand the treatment process (which is usually by a drug called Immiticide; in other words, a sort of arsenic-type treatment.) It is usually quite successful even though it seems harsh. Heartworm treatment should be much safer for dogs now that a new medication, Immiticide (rx), is available to veterinarians. This medication has fewer side effects and kills a higher percentage of heartworms than Caparsolate (rx), which has been the only medication available until now.
Your girl should be kept quiet until the full treatment is completed and she has tested negative. Basically, out to do her potty business then right back into the house. If she is a hyper girl or very active, you may need to confine her to a small area or crate her. No heavy exercise or rough play during this time.
Parvovirus ("Parvo") Protection, Recognition & Treatment
Q: "What are the signs of Parvo and how can I protect my dog from it?"
A: The signs of parvovirus are not specific. Be on the lookout for lethargy and loss of appetite, progressing within a couple of days to vomiting, diarrhea (often profuse and bloody), along with a high fever. Veterinarians usually administer the parvo vaccines to puppies in a series of 3 injections typically beginning at 6 to 8 weeks of age. The boosters are usually given every 3 to 4 weeks.
Precautions:
There is no infallible parvo preventive but there are recommended precautions (especially important for puppies) that will increase your dog's chances of avoiding parvo.
1. Have your dog vaccinated on a regularly scheduled basis.
2. Keep him or her away from dogs with unknown current vaccinations. Also, don't allow your puppy in public areas or around other dogs until he or she has received at least the first 2 vaccinations.
3. Prevent your dog from coming in contact with feces.
4. Good hygiene at home helps and if you board your dog, insist that the kennels and runs are disinfected on a routine daily basis.
Parvovirus can and is often life-threatening even with treatment. The earlier it is diagnosed, the better chance the dog has to survive and recover. Most adult dogs are immune to parvo, but puppies between 6 weeks to 6 months of age are seriously susceptible.
Parvovirus (also known as CPV-2) uses its host's cellular machinery to produce replicas of itself. Over a 2-week period, an infected dog can shed up to a billion CPV-2 viruses in his or her feces, which can survive in the environment for 5 months or longer. When an unprotected dog ingests the virus, CPV-2 begins multiplying and spreading throughout the body starting from the lymph tissue of the nose and throat, then into the bone marrow, and to the lining cells of the small intestine. The common symptoms of vomiting and diarrhea can lead to dehydration and dangerous imbalances in electrolytes (electrically charged chemicals necessary for normal cell function.)
The intestines then lose the ability to control and prevent digestive bacteria from infiltrating the bloodstream and cause system-wide infection. Ultimately, the bacteria in the bloodstream along with the depleted white blood cells is the biggest threat to the dogs life. If you suspect your dog may be infected, get him or her to your vet immediately.
When Pets Come in Contact With Frogs & Toads
This can be DEADLY!!
A: Toads and frogs release a toxic substance that with only one single lick or bite, they will release the substance as a defense mechanism. This is in hopes to force the predator to release them from the mouth grip due to the horrible taste, thus, saving the prey from being injured or eaten. If your boy is foaming at the mouth, (even if the foaming has subsided by the time you read this reply) you need to rinse his entire mouth out with water inside and out (without forcing water down his throat.) After doing so, get him to a veterinarian immediately. The toxicity from this exposure can and is often very dangerous and also depends on the size of the animal and the amount of poison he was exposed to. The best outcomes are when the pet is brought to the vet ASAP. I don't want to send you into a panic, but in all my years in the vet med field, I have seen many poor outcomes that could have possibly been avoided due to the duration of time the pet was brought in for treatment. Right now, rinse his mouth out with water and bring him to the vet. Better safe than sorry. When it comes to the toxicity that toads and frogs can produce, it can have various effects and outcomes for domesticated pets.
10 Most Common Pet Poisons of 2009
- ASPCA News Alert About Poisons
- From January 15, 2010 - ASPCA News Alert: Top Ten Poisons
mrsmusic1
