Standard framing glass. What most picture frames have is a simple float glass. Standard glass gives basic protection to most dirt, with a minimal amount of UV protection. This is still common since it is the most inexpensive real glazing method with very acceptable effects.

Styrene. Styrene is a colorless and hard plastic different from acrylic glass. It is commercially available, and sometimes produced by makers up to 1/16 of an inch in thickness. It is a common alternative to glass.

The two main plus factors of styrene is that it is half the weight of the same size of glass, and is more shatter resistant than glass. Moreover, it is a better insulator than glass and repels condensation more actively.

Standard non reflective glass. In the case of this glass, acid is etched (either on one side or both) to give a diffused reflection. Naturally, it is more expensive than standard glass. The etching process also renders the glass prone to damage.

Perspex. Perspex is another material that is a good substitute to glass especially where the picture is very large, or very likely to be damaged. Much lighter than glass, perspex or acrylic is more resistant to shattering as it can flex to absorb impacts. It is prone to scratches however and will produce static at intervals that will make it a dust magnet. Just the same, people look to the UV protection it can give to pictures.

Perspex also has non reflective variants.

Museum glass. This is the most advanced product so far of glazing technology. Expensive, it's true, but it provides the surest UV protection out there, minimizes reflection and maintains colour integrity.

Other plastics that mimic glass' properties are Plexiglass and Shinkolite. These aim to cut the amount of gases inadvertently released that can harm your picture, and to give better UV stabilization.

At right: Examples of frames with mocha and off-white mattings.

Why Get Matting. Using a mat can prevent permanent damage to works on paper and photographs. The thickness of the mat board serves to separate the paper from the glass or styrene. This also keeps away the vapor that may condense and form behind the glass.
The mat visually isolates and makes the photo the center of attention. For everything else, let the color of the mat settle it.

Picking Mat Colors. If the mat's color is not present in the picture, then don't push thru with it even if the mat matches the room. The rule of thumb is that the mat color best suited for the image need to work well, too, in the room it's headed for. For the meantime, a neutral color, such as cream or off-white, is the most versatile choice.

Sizing up a mat. Start things by measuring the subject for framing and subtracting ¼" from your mat window opening. So, if you're framing a 12"x15", then the mat you will get has an opening of 11 ¾" x 14 ¾".

HAVING A HARD CHOOSING WHICH MAT?
Want to see some specialty cut mats?
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The two most common methods for hanging a frame are saw-tooth hangers and wire hangers. They are described in detail below.

Saw-Tooth Hanger. The most worry-free of the hanging options, it is also a common choice for basic framing projects. Saw-tooth hangers go best with smaller or lightweight frames since the weight of the frame is supported at a single point. One hanger keeps the back of the frame close to the wall.

Wire Hanger. The wire is tied between the two eyehooks, which are screwed into opposite sides of the frame. A wire hanger is a good option in the case of heavier frames. It's also tough too since the hanger assembly is secured to the frame by screws, not nails.

More hanging ideas and options by clicking here.