Back in the day...
Groomers, vets, and even pet owners used to use organophosphate dips to control fleas. It would kill what was on the dog, and it had a residual effect that would continue to kill fleas for some time. Unfortunately, organophosphates are neurotoxins, and pets and people alike were suffering ill-effects. The stuff was nasty, and it stank... and so dips fell by the wayside.
Not much better, but still on the market, are powders and flea-collars. Both of these can cause major irritation to the pet's skin and pose the risk of overexposure, particularly if the pet licks himself a lot. Neither is particularly effective, but flea collars do seem to keep fleas off the neck... for a short time.
Once dips fell out of favor, shampoos hit the market. 'Natural' pesticides, such as pyrethrins and permethrins used in these flea shampoos work pretty well, but some pets and people are allergic, and overexposure is still possible. I don't like to use them, myself.
Even products containing the citrus-based d-Limonene have their risks. While it is effective in killing the bugs, and can be considered 'natural', directions must be followed exactly, and again, some pets are sensitive to it. Not a perfect solution, but we're getting there.
Most vets these days agree that the best way to control fleas is to take a three-step approach... 1) kill the adults on the pet, 2) prevent reinfestation by killing the larvae and eggs, and 3) treat the environment. Remember, what you see on the dog is only about 1% of what is loose where it lives!
How can you do all this with little or no pesticide use?
Kill the Adults on the Pet
Start with a DRY dog. Don't wet him first... the fleas will create their shield and then run into orifices (eyes, nose, the other end...) to hide. Take any pet shampoo, or even a non-ultra type dish soap (Dawn, Palmolive), add a tiny bit of water to it so you can spread it around, and apply it to the DRY DOG, around the head and ears first, then around the back-end, then a line down the back. Start rubbing it into the coat, adding just enough water here and there to allow you to lather it up. Be very careful not to get soap in your pet's eyes! Have eyewash handy just in case!
Let this sit on the pet for 5 minutes, and then rinse thoroughly... follow with a good conditioner if you used dish soap, as it can be drying (that is why it works so well).
Even better, you could use a shampoo called DeFlea by Natural Chemistry... I used this for years and it had some other benefits... such as clearing up hot spots (antifungal). I had a toxicologist look at this stuff when I was pregnant, and he told me it was safe... just don't drink it. The reason it works is because it breaks down the exoskeleton of the flea... and the flea suffocates. It can be used on puppies and kittens of ANY age, and is safe to use in conjunction with spot-on treatments.
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Capstar
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CAPSTAR BLUE for Cats/Dogs 2-25lbs (6 tablets)
Amazon Price: $22.07 (as of 08/21/2008)
CAPSTAR Green for Dogs over 25 lbs(6 tablets)
Amazon Price: $22.07 (as of 08/21/2008)
Kill the Larvae and Eggs, and Keep Killing Adults
Because these products work by spreading over the pet via oils in the skin, it is best to wait about three days after a bath to apply it. Fleas don't have to bite your pet to die... they simply must come into contact with your pet's skin! Be sure to treat EVERY pet in your house (dogs and cats) at the same time.
Most of these products suggest reapplication every 30 days. Discuss with your veterinarian whether or not you should wait until you see fleas again before reapplying, or if you should keep your pet on a strict 30-day schedule. If you haven't reached that 30-day mark and you're seeing fleas again, ask your vet about whether or not it is safe to reapply... be armed with information such as bathing frequency and exactly how you are applying the product when you have this discussion.
Over-the-counter brands typically use strong concentrations of permethrins and may be toxic to your pet... though somewhat effective, I don't consider them low-pesticide, and I don't recommend them.
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Frontline Plus Cat, 6 Month
Amazon Price: $57.37 (as of 08/21/2008)
Frontline Plus Dog 0-22 Pounds, 6 Month
Amazon Price: $51.99 (as of 08/21/2008)
Frontline Plus Dog 23-44 Pounds, 6 Month
Amazon Price: $56.99 (as of 08/21/2008)
Frontline Plus Dog 45-88 Pounds, 6 Month
Amazon Price: $59.99 (as of 08/21/2008)
Frontline Plus Dog 89-132 Pounds , 6 Month
Amazon Price: $69.37 (as of 08/21/2008)
Treat the Environment
Natural Chemistry (the people that make that wonderful DeFlea Shampoo) also makes a line of highly effective non-pesticide sprays that can be used in the home. I would recommend this over the exterminator, but it might be hard to find in a pinch.
An effective "physical" approach involves the use of a vacuum cleaner. Flea eggs hatch almost immediately when stimulated by vibration. The first step, then, would be to vacuum the floor (even non-carpeted floor). Wait about 20 minutes, and then vacuum it again... this time, very slowly so that escape is less likely. Remove your vacuum bag (or empty the vacuum) and tie the dirt up in a plastic bag. Dispose of this bag in your OUTDOOR trash receptacle. The next day, repeat this whole process. Repeat the vacuuming every other day for a week. If you have treated your pet with a topical flea treatment, any fleas that happen to escape this process will eventually go to your pet for a meal and die as soon as it walks on your pet's skin.
While the above suggestions are not totally pesticide-free, they do minimize the exposure of your pet and yourself to these toxic substances. Life without fleas can be a reality... BE VIGILANT.
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Stazjia
Thank you for a really interesting lens. It all makes good sense to me especially as I use Frontline on my dogs. I'd never thought of using nearly dry soap, though. Posted June 09, 2008 |
