Visiting Prasat Preah Vihear
Prasat Preah Vihear is an Angor era Temple that sits on the border of Thailand and Cambodia. It can be visited from the Thai side as the Cambodian Government allows daytrippers without a visa.
The journey to the Temple from the Cambodian side is more of an adventure though and very much a highlight of the trip. It may be a hard and arduous journey, though the route is becoming easier with more roads getting sealed each year, but the smile on your face when you first see Prasat Preah Vihear makes it all worth it.
The history of Prasat Preah Vihear
The Temple of Prasat Preah Vihear was built over a period of time stretching through the reign of seven Khmer Monarchs. The Temple was started during the reign of Yasovarman I, who was in power from 889-910AD and was finished during the years of Suryavarman II (who built the great temples of Angkor) 1112-1152AD.Prasat Preah Vihear translates into English as 'Sacred Monastery' and was a major pilgrimage site during the Angkor years. The Temple was dedicated to Shiva, a Hindu deity and worshippers from all over the Khmer World (and some from further away) came to ask for Shiva's blessing.
The pilgrims visiting the site started to dry up in the late Thirteenth Century, when Srindravarman deposed his Father-in-law, Jayavarman VIII. Srindravarman was a follower of Theravada Buddhism and he promptly made it the State religion. Theravad had spread from Sri Lanka and has already gained massive converts.

The records from the reign of Srindravarman are pretty poor and we do not know much about his years in power. We do know however, that no more major temple complexes were built as Therevada Buddhism needed no such temples to worship at.
Prasat Preah Vihear, it would seem was left to be a small Khmer outpost as the power shifted to the Phnom Penh region from Angkor. The power of the Thai Ayutthaya Kingdom threatened the Khmer and there was many attempts on Khmer lands. Thai records from the time mention the conquering of Angkor by Ayutthaya forces.
Today, Prasat Preah Vihear is a contentious issue between Cambodia and Thailand. The area was under Thai control for several centuries, until it was handed back to Cambodia during the time of the French protectorate. In 1959 after Cambodian independence, the Thais again seized the area, only for the Cambodians to take it to the International Court. The World backed Cambodian sovereignty and in a 1962 ruling, the area was again given back to Cambodia.
Books from Amazon you might enjoy
The Classic-period kings ruled over the Khmer empire from AD 802 for more than five centuries, and this book, newly available in paperback, examines the massive architectural achievements of this period, including the huge capital city of Angkor, with the awe-inspiring Angkor Wat, the world's largest religious structure. It also draws attention to the imperial road system that bound together the region's provincial centres. The gigantic hydraulic system, still a source of controversy, is believed by many to have provided the agricultural basis of Angkor's grandeur and power, and its nature and function are discussed here. The final chapter describes the Post-Classic period that set the stage for the entry of the Khmer into the modern era.
A wonderful book looking at the various Cities, Temples and mounuments of the Kmer Civilisation. This book obviously focuses a lot of its attention on the massive Temple complex at Angkor, but there is still some good content on the lesser known sites including Prasat Preah Vihear. The Temple
Prasat Preah Vihear is perched atop the cliff face of Chuor Phnom Dangrek, a scary 550 metres from the plains below. The view from here is as dramatic as it sounds, with the panoramic scene stretching for miles and miles.Like many of the Angkor era Temples, Prasat Preah Vihear is set out to represent the holy Mount Meru, Sanctuary of the Gods. The site consists of a long causeway leading to steps up the mountainside to the Sanctuary, with Gopuras (traditional Hindu style pavilion) on the way up.
From these Gopuras you can tell the difference in construction styles. The first one to built was Gopura number 5, closest to the Sanctuary. This one dates from the Koh Ker period. The next one along, Gopura 4, is from the later Baphuon period and each Gopura is from a later period until you reach the beginning of the complex.

The design of the Temple means that a visitor cannot see the entire Temple complex from anyone point. Each Gopura blocks the view, until you walk through the next gateway.
Once you have passed the five Gopuras, you will reach two courtyards before you enter the Sanctuary proper. In the first of these two courtyards there are two libraries. To the left of the Sanctuary is Pei Ta Da Cliff, which allows those wonderful views over the Cambodian lowlands.
Visiting Prasat Preah Vihear
Their is a new 'packed laterite access road' from Siem Reap to Prasat Preah Vihear which gos via Anlong Veng. This is around 210 kilometres and the quickest of the two routes I am showing here. It would be best to hire a 4X4 with driver as the road can get a bit unruly.
The second route is from Siem Reap to Prasat Preah Vihear, going via Koh Ker and on through the Kulen Prum Tep Wildlife Sanctuary. This is a very pretty route which I myself took a few years back, though it is notoriously difficult.
We spent the night in Koh Ker on our trip, though there are no hotels or guesthouses, so you will need a hammock and food and water. From here it is further along the road to Prasat Preah Vihear.
Flights to Thailand and Cambodia can be found on Travelocity, who can find the best deals for you through their reliable search engine.
Yuo will need to organise accommodation in a guesthouse in Choam Ksant, the closest Town to the Temple. DO NOT EXPECT TOP QUALITY HOTEL SERVICES!
I am presuming most people who are planning to visit Prasat Preah Vihear will base themselves in Siem Reap, close to the Angkor complex. This would be a good base for those who are planning the trip to Prasat Preah Vihear, good hotels and guesthouses abound and good transport links to the rest of Cambodia.
Hotels.com is a good place to find accommodation in Siem Reap, though don't expect to find anything for Choam Ksant or Koh Ker.
Related Links
You might want to look at...
- Peace of Angkor
- An informative website with some great photos on Prasat Preah Vihear, as well as othe rAngkor era Temples and complexes.
- Andy Brouwer
- One mans experience of travelling to the region back in 2005.
Please tell me what you think!
All views are appreciated! Any advice for people planning to visit the Tempes would be appreciated too.
(by 2 people)
