Ratanakiri: The Gem Mountain
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Ratana and Kiri: Gem and Mountain
Ratana and Kiri. Ratana in Khmer means gem and Kiri, mountain. These are the two features for which this province of Cambodia, Ratanakiri, is best known. Sparsely populated with around 150, 000 people, Ratanakiri is also renowned for its unique natural beauty, rich natural resources and exquisite landscapes including its level plateau, undulating hills and mountains, crater lakes, watershed lowlands, waterfalls and rivers. Because of this natural beauty, two places have been designated as national protected parks: Lumphat Wildlife Sanctuary and Virachey National Park. Best of all, it's almost a secret. So, go quickly if this is your idea of beauty.
There are two rivers crossing the province: Tonle San and Tonle Sre Pork, both abundant with fish. And around the rivers, Ratanakiri has one of the most diverse forest ecosystems in Southeast Asia. Its forest cover varies from area to area, from the dense impenetrable jungle-like forests still rich in wildlife in the northeast, to the drier and sparser forest in the southwest. Ratanakiri offers rich opportunities for Eco-tourism in Cambodia and it is NOT spoiled.......yet.
Life, even in the province's capital, Banlung, is still simple. Farmers till the earth and work the rice paddies with hand tools. Villagers live in hand-built stilt wooden houses. At night, closely knit village communities gather around the fire and share a warm meal and homemade rice wine. As they live close to nature, they still practice animism with sorcery and black magic. This is "Indochine" and a living peek at history.
Photograph Ratanakiri
Get good pictures and videos of life in Ratanakiri
Glimpses of Ratanakiri
A Natural Beauty
For Ratanakiri
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Key Facts about Ratanakiri
Country: Cambodia
Established as a Province: 1959
Capital: Banlung
Area: 10,782 sq.kms. (4,163 sq. mi.)
Population: 149,997
See Ratanakiri on the Map
The Northeast Border Province
Look at the northeast border. There you will see Ratanakiri. You can see how remote it is but many tourists go for a taste of what is remote and still indigenous. It is changing fast so come soon.
Map from Canby Publications
The Still Pristine Ratanakiri
Still Unspoilt
Ratanakiri Development through the Years
Modernization has been slow
The Province is situated 636 km from Phnom Penh in the Northeast. A border province, it has Laos PDR to the north and Vietnam to the east.
Ratanakiri became a province in 1959 as part of King Norodom Sihanouk's modernization campaign in the northeast of Cambodia. Whatever development took place then brought a mix of blessing and curses and only led to feelings of resentment on the part of the Khmer Lou minorities many of whom were forced to work in newly developed rubber plantations.
The ascendant Khmer Rouge at that time exploited this resentment and forged an alliance with the Khmer Lou making Ratanakiri the Khmer Rouge headquarters in 1966. At around this time, North Vietnamese communists had also been active in this area so the province was targeted by the US bombing campaign to get rid of North Vietnamese sanctuaries.
Ratanakiri was at one time the Khmer rouge headquarters
Want to read on the Khmer Rouge in Cambodia?
How to Get to Ratanakiri
Interesting Ride to Ratanakiri
Yes, this is the van or taxi you can share with over 30 people. Now, you understand why you have to buy two seats, at least. Ratanakiri is a remote destination and can be reached only by road. Of course, you have to fly to Phnom Penh first, Cambodia's capital city. From Phnom Penh, rent a car or take a shared taxi or a bus.
Ratanakiri can now be reached by road in around 13 hours if you have your own transport. It is better to take it in two legs though, with a stop in Kratie where you can watch the very rare fresh water dolphins. Kratie is a great town and well worth a walk about. By public transport, the trip includes a stop in Stung Treng: Phnom Penh to Stung Treng and then Stung Treng to Banlung. Again, pay for 2 seats for yourself so you get some space. Otherwise, the ride is more of an adventure that you might not care to have. Also, do not bring anything white. This is red dust province. Wearing white will just be a disaster.
From Laos, you can take the border crossing, Voeung Kam, Laos/Dom Kralor, Cambodia. Cambodian visas are available at this crossing. From Dom Kralor, take a taxi or bus to Stung Treng and then take another taxi or bus from Stung Treng to Ratanakiri. The number of young Europeans trekking up here is remarkable as it is so close to Lao. The trekkers link up quickly and really are a spectacle on their own.
For your bus trip to Ratanakiri
Get yourself a good backpack
Where to Stay in Ratanakiri
The Terre Rouge Lodge
Located on the lakeside of Banlung, the capital city, Terres Rouges Lodge is a remarkable and charming wooden structure in the middle of a beautiful garden with rooms tastefully decorated.This is Ratanakiri's finest accommodation. Its restaurant, Le Jovial Jarai, has a full bar and serves both Cambodian and French dishes...often with a local twist.. Both French and English are spoken here and the lodge has a boutique with local handicrafts that are reasonably priced and often unique
There are other options, too, often a bit cheaper. Check out Norden House just five minutes from Yak Lom crater, this Swedish owned retreat has currently six bungalows and can do up a very good Western meal for you. Other choices include Lakeside Chheng Lok Hotel, Sovann Kiri Hotel, Mountain Guesthouse, Ratanak Hotel, Tribal Hotel and Yaklom Hill Lodge. But remember, you'll be counting on the hotel to help you set up a few day expeditions...so pick a good lodge. The purpose of the visit is not rest, it's participation!
Other Places to Stay in Ratanakiri
More lodges are opening
- Yaklom Hill Lodge, Ratanakiri » start
- Home About Cambodia Yaklom Hill Lodge - Room & Reservation Useful Links Gallery Contact Yaklom Hill Lodge Ratanakiri
Ban Lung City map Place to visit and things to see/do Treks and Tours Our Menu About Yaklom Hill Lodge Birds of Yaklom Hill Lodge FAQ How to get there? - Ratanakiri hotels
- Discount Banlung (Ratanakiri) Hotels Cambodia - Book 3-5 star Hotels in Banlung (Ratanakiri) such as Motel Phnom Yaklom. Book now for GREAT SAVINGS up to 75% only from Agoda
- Ratanakiri Hotels: Find Ratanakiri Hotel Reviews and Rates - TravelPod
- Hotels in Ratanakiri, Cambodia: Read hotel reviews and compare rates for Ratanakiri accommodations at TravelPod.
- Norden House Yaklom Ratanakiri
- We had lunch in this place when we were in Ratanakiri and enjoyed the Western meal. It has several bungalows built in a beautiful garden. A beautiful place to stay.
- Lodge Terres Rouges - Ratanakiri - Cambodge
- A beautiful lodge in Ratanakiri.
Protect our Forests
Report Forest Crimes
What Ratanakiri Offers
Vote for the top thing to do in Ratanakiri
Here are some of the interesting things Ratanakiri offers to travellers who are willing to have a bit of adventure.
Go Early to Phsar Banlung(local market) and Buy Crafts from the Ethnic Villagers
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Visit Virachey National Park, one of the largest protected areas in Asia
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Bring one to Ratanakiri
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Visit Ratanakiri's Minority Villages
Include Tampuan, Charay and Krueng...and be a good tourist!
It is interesting to visit more than one tribal village to see the distinct characteristics of the various Khmer Loeu minorities. Ratanakiri is home to about 60,000 ethnic minorities including the Tampuan, Krueng, Charay, Prov Kachak, Kavet, Lao, Loun and Phnon and Brou. Each of these groups retain their own unique culture, tradition, belief and language. Visit Tampuan and Charay villages to see their distinctive cemetery totems and long houses. Go to Krueng villages to see their traditional farming techniques and distinct high houses.
Most of these minorities live very simply without the modern amenities we are used to. They use gas lamps and they do not have radio, television, electricity, running water or computers. They grow cashews, sesame and vegetables. Their meals are very simple, mostly vegetables with the occasional meat when they are able to go to the market. Many parents, though, encourage their children to go to school and some of them hope to have university education. One student who is now at Grade 11 from the Tompoun tribe works as a moto driver to support himself to school. Another girl supports herself by working as a maid to the neighbors but she is determined to continue her studies up to university even if her family tried to stop her.
Many in these groups do not bring their sick to hospitals as these are far from their villages so many die at an early age and often, these deaths are attributed not to physical but spiritual causes such as displeasing the community spirits.
Remember...these folks are NOT objects. They have the same feelings, aspirations and dreams as you have. Reach out. They are often welcoming. If you want to take a picture, ask. Smile and say hello. Buy some bananas, jackfruit or other fruits to take with you back to the hotel. Don't be loud and don't point at people...that is especially rude!
Trek Ratanakiri's Virachey National Park
Get a local guide from Ratanakiri
Virachey National Park, 37 km northeast of Banlung bordering Laos and Vietnam, is a heavily jungled and mountainous area and has not been completely explored. To trek here, get an experienced local guide. One thing you do NOT want to discover is a leftover mine!
Covering an area of 3,325 square kilometers, Virachey National Park is the largest protected park in the region. You can trek the park or go by boat. You can also stay overnight with the tribes or community guesthouses. While you can enjoy its biodiversity including hundred year old trees, hornbills and woodpeckers and the life of its ethnic minorities, you will also be confronted by the devastation left from the bombing during the Vietnam War. Remember Ho Chi Minh Trail. This is part of it.
Make sure to get good recommendations from former trekkers or your hotel. Some of these guided treks only touch the outskirts of the park so make sure you have clear expectations for your guide of the things you want to see and experience.
Read on the Ho Chi Minh Trail
Interesting connection
Here is one experience you might enjoy in Ratanakiri
Try jungle trekking
You have to do this with a guide as there are still land mines in the area.
If you want to do jungle trekking in Ratanakiri
Make sure you have comfortable shoes
Land Mines Warning
Yes, go with an experienced guide.
In the 1998 document of the Cambodian Mine Action Centre, there were still 1,249 known casualties.
Visit Ratanakiri's Yeak Laom Volcanic Lake
Meet the Khmer Loeu people
You will be enveloped by the earth's calm as you approach Yeak Laom Volcanic Lake. It is a 700,000 year old volcanic crater lake in a lush, peaceful jungle setting. The area around has been declared the Yeak Laom Commune Protected Area. The lake and the area are considered sacred by many of the Khmer Loeu peoples, and are steeped in local myth and legend...so once again be respectful. If you drop trash, local spirits will gather it together and magically send it home to your mother with a stern letter.
The lake is 800 meters in diameter and 47 meters deep, and is ringed by a 2.5 km hiking trail. Around the lake are the five villages of Lapoe, Lon, Sil, Chree and Phnom, home to the Tampuan minority group. Members of this minority group formed the Yeak Laom Arts Group dedicated to preserving their music, dance and culture. The songs that they plan to record on a CD cover aspects of Tampuan life from child rearing to pounding rice, to religious offerings, to caring for their buffaloes to death rituals. If you are lucky, they may share some of these with you.
On the lake trail, The Yeak Laom Cultural and Environmental Center displays Khmer Loeu handicrafts and hand woven fabrics. Take pictures (after asking) of the artisans making these artifacts as this will really add life to your stories when you get home.
Have a swim and a picnic. It is very calm in the area. You can rest your weary self.
See all of Ratanakiri water falls
Go and Swim in the Waterfalls
Ratanakiri has several waterfalls all worth visiting. The best time to enjoy the falls is during the rainy season when there is a tremendous volume of water. Don't miss these ones:
Cha Ong: 18 meter waterfall in the jungle where the rock behind the falls has been carved out by the action of the water, making it possible to walk behind the falls
Kan Chang: a wide 7-meter tall falls with a pool at the base big enough for a good swim.
Local families will be there with you and this is a great chance to meet people. They are a bit shy...so quietly take the initiative. The younger folks especially want to practice their English...so give them a chance.
Ka Tieng: a 10 meter falls set in the jungle.
When you trek in Ratanakiri
Make sure you protect yourself
Go Early to Phsar Banlung in the capital city of Ratanakiri
Ratanakiri's Local Market
Many Khmer Lou come here in their traditional back strap baskets to sell fruits, vegetables and other forest products including smoked wild meat. You become the strange object, with every one watching you...but if you smile, everyone will smile back and your little area will light up like a Christmas tree.
Visit a Gem Mine in Ratanakiri
Watch the miners in Ratanakiri do it traditionally
About 36 kms from the capital, Banlung, one can see in the Bokeo Mines, miners extract zircon from shallow tunnels. These are the cut and sold in the shops in Banlung.
Visit the Lumphat Wildlife Sanctuary
37 kilometers from Ratanakiri center
This is worth a visit. It is about 2,225 square kilometers of nature with the Sre Pork River and water falls and a mix of hills and forests. This sanctuary provides shelter for elephants, bantengs, tigers, wild buffaloes, bears and over a hundred bird species.
It is also the home of many ethnic minorities mainly the Phnongs who make their living from the resins, vines, rattan and other plants in the forest. Elephants and ox carts can be rented from the Phnongs for those who may hesitate to walk in the forest. We rented our elephants from them when we came to visit.
When you visit Ratanakiri
You will need your hat
Souvenirs from Ratanakiri
Some Good Buys
Look for authentic Khmer Loeu handicrafts and artifacts. Many of their handicrafts like back-strap baskets, hand woven fabrics, gourd vessels, and gongs are mostly still made for use by the local people.
Semi-precious gems mined in Ratanakiri such as amethyst, blue zircon, peridot and obsidian are cut and polished in Banlung. Several gem cutting/retail shops sell these gems unset. You can watch them cut these gems using primitive equipment. This is interesting as you can no longer see this in many cities.
Challenges in Ratanakiri
Land grabbing and Illegal Logging
Ratanakiri is now experiencing a boom with rubber plantations encroaching on many of its jungles. It is common to see felled trees and clearing when you go around as well as established rubber plantations and those only beginning. I understand that people have to live and appreciate that the government has protected an area in Ratanakiri which is one of the largest areas in the region. Still, illegal logging continues to be a problem not just from the Cambodians but also from the Vietnamese who are lured by expensive timber available in Ratanakiri.
Recently, more than 50 ethnic minorities protested that about 500 hectares of their farmland had been seized. As many of the ethnic minorities practice rotational farming, they still don't have a concept of land ownership.
In Ratanakiri, protect yourself from the sun
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Interested in Sorcery or Black Magic
Ratanakiri is the place to go
I was shocked yesterday to read an article in the Cambodia daily about 64 year old Sev Phem from O'Yadaw district in Ratanakiri who is currently in deep trouble about the Pak Touch Village accusation that he is a sorcerer. In the Jarai tribe to which he belongs, this only means death or expulsion from the community where he has spent his lifetime with his 9 children and granchildren he could not keep track of.Anyway, all Sev Pehm wants is the chance to prove he is not but the village people will not accept his challenge as they said he can over power them using black magic. Several families have to move out before because of the same accusation. Others had no chance to move out. Several people had been killed not only here in Ratanakiri but in other provinces of Cambodia as well based on the accusation of sorcery. As many people in the remote areas still believe in animism, the problem is still acute. Some enlightened villagers hope that with education and the young people's exposure to new developments, this problem will disappear.
Remember Cambodia
Especially images of Angkor
Development programs in Ratanakiri
ADB Voucher Training Program
Ratanakiri has had almost no development support until very recently but now good roads have been built to connect the province to the rest of the country. Schools are now constructed to improve the levels of education.
The Ministry of Labor and Vocational Training has a provincial training center there to improve the skills of the work force.
The Asian Development Bank has given the Ministry a grant and soon the voucher skills training program engaging communes to participate in developing their own training plan will be started in the province.
Voucher Training soon to be in Ratanakiri
ADB Voucher Skills Training Program in Cambodia
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So you are more prepared
- Local Consultant for the End of Programme Evaluation Of The Community Based ...
- The application essentially led to the expansion, into an additional province, of the Community Based Health Development (CBHD) programme that was being implemented in the provinces of Siem Reap, Kampot, and Ratanakiri Provinces at the time of the ...
- Colombian Donates New Torah For Cambodia
- Jews came from all over country, including Batambang, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville and Ratanakiri. As a special souvenir, a miniature Torah made in Cambodia was given out to all participants of this monumental event.
- Luxury Travel Ltd to Unveil New Overland Tours in the Kingdom of Cambodia
- Bordering Thailand to the west and Vietnam to the east, Cambodia offers visitors many unique experiences ranging from visiting the tribes of Ratanakiri to exploring the vast wet land of Tonle Sap Lake. There are also countless ancient temples and ...
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Bring a small calculator for your Ratanakiri trip
You'll need this when you negotiate prices
Yes, many store owners do not speak English so when you buy things or food, just let them show you the figure in your calculator. They usually have in the center of town but it is better to have one handy. Of course, you can also use your phone.
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What Are Others Saying About Ratanakiri?
Read about their experiences in Ratanakiri
- Local Consultant for the End of Programme Evaluation Of The Community Based ...
- The application essentially led to the expansion, into an additional province, of the Community Based Health Development (CBHD) programme that was being implemented in the provinces of Siem Reap, Kampot, and Ratanakiri Provinces at the time of the ...
- Colombian Donates New Torah For Cambodia
- Jews came from all over country, including Batambang, Siem Reap, Sihanoukville and Ratanakiri. As a special souvenir, a miniature Torah made in Cambodia was given out to all participants of this monumental event.
- Luxury Travel Ltd to Unveil New Overland Tours in the Kingdom of Cambodia
- Bordering Thailand to the west and Vietnam to the east, Cambodia offers visitors many unique experiences ranging from visiting the tribes of Ratanakiri to exploring the vast wet land of Tonle Sap Lake. There are also countless ancient temples and ...
- Luxury Travel Ltd to Unveil New Overland Tours in the Kingdom of Cambodia
- Bordering Thailand to the west and Vietnam to the east, Cambodia offers visitors many unique experiences ranging from visiting the tribes of Ratanakiri to exploring the vast wet land of Tonle Sap Lake. There are also countless ancient temples and ...
For your trip to Ratanakiri
Bring extra media cards
The special angels who brought the blessing
Thank you
Angkor Cambodia
For your trip to Ratanakiri
Have you been to some really remote areas?
Please share
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WordCustard
Jan 29, 2012 @ 5:31 am | delete
- Thank you for being our virtual tour guide for Ratanakiri, it sounds like a beautiful, complex and unique place to visit. I agree with Cathi (below) that you shared a good reminder about having respect for those we encounter when we go somewhere new.
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Thrinsdream
Jan 22, 2012 @ 6:06 pm | delete
- Loved this lens (pressed add comment to early before) and "Remember...these folks are NOT objects" is a statement that should be pointed out across many remote destinations, well put. With thanks and appreciation. Cathi x
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Thrinsdream
Jan 22, 2012 @ 6:04 pm | delete
- I lived in Brunei off the coast of Borneo from the age of 7 to 18 and loved every minute of it! So many things in this lens are reminding me of home esp. the woven back packs
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VKumar
Jan 21, 2012 @ 4:06 pm | delete
- I need to visit Ratnakiri now. Very nice Lens.
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WriterJanis
Jan 13, 2012 @ 3:50 am | delete
- This is a place that I would like to visit.
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ajgodinho Nov 7, 2011 @ 4:33 pm | delete
- What a beautiful and natural place, one where I would definitely like to explore and take a vacation to. You did a great job of presenting Ratankiri to make me want to visit the place!
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aesta1
Jan 1, 2012 @ 5:46 am | delete
- We have so few places now that are really pristine.
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Graceonline
Oct 20, 2011 @ 12:45 pm | delete
- Again, a lovely tour of a part of the world I may never see any other way. Thank you.
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aesta1
Oct 24, 2011 @ 5:49 am | delete
- Until I came to Cambodia I have not also heard of Ratanakir.
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Sylvestermouse
Oct 5, 2011 @ 7:18 pm | delete
- Fascinating and beautiful! I couldn't help but think the elephant rides would be fun and scary :)
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- Khork sneh Ratanakiri ខកស្នេហ៍រតនគិរី - Reaksa, P -- Sunday, P -- Sunday Vol 108 - S -- Sok Raksa http://t.co/qbwlPrCU
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- Khork sneh Ratanakiri ខកស្នេហ៍រតនគិរី - Reaksa, P -- Sunday, P -- Sunday Vol 108 - S -- Sok Raksa http://t.co/4DfVdXXf
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Lonely Planet Cambodia (Country Guide)
Amazon Price: $1.45 (as of 02/15/2012)
Get a copy for your trip. This is a useful guide and includes suggestions and tips that are worthwhile.
