My wife and I share a love for shooting pool. In fact we met at Pinkie's in Las Vegas, which was a pool hall with many, many pink tables. (I hear it's closed down now, that's a shame!)

Since we moved away from Vegas we purchased a home that has a rec room downstairs and we negotiated to purchase the pool table that was there. It badly needed refelting and we thought about trying to do it ourselves but decided to have it done and take pictures and notes about the process. (The picture is with the new felt.)

At Refelting.com we present the full process of refelting your own pool table, and we've had emails from many people who have successfully done it themselves and saved a ton of money.

As I mentioned before, it cost us over $800 to have our pool table professionally refelted about a year ago, but you can do it for just the cost of the felt and perhaps any replacement pieces you may need.

You can get all the info (pictures and instructions) to refelt your own pool table absolutely free, no strings attached, right now at Refelting Your Pool Table.

One more thing I want to mention is that we're not so happy with our "upgraded speed cloth" we chose for our pool table! Next time, we'll stick with the traditional felt!

Consistency is the art of being able to perform well at will - every time, in a harmonious connection with your thoughts and actions. Confidence is a prerequisite for consistency. Confidence is nothing more than having faith in your abilities. Faith that you can and will achieve a certain task or goal.

Most players are working to bring consistency to their game. After all, if they could perform the way they are capable of performing, and do this every time, they would win more games, raise their league average and win more tournaments.

If you are an inconsistent player, you're having problems in your fundamentals. An inconsistent player does not hit the cue ball the same way every time. And once you miss-hit the cue ball, your mind begins to play tricks on you. You start to think you something is wrong with you, and then you begin to go into a slump. You lack confidence. Your stroke is unsure and tentative and things can get worse. You begin to change your stance, your grip, your style of play.

If you hit the same shot the exact same way every time, you will become a consistent player and you will enjoy this game far more. Consistency is worth working for. And it takes a professional approach to the fundamentals in order to achieve consistency in your game.

First of all, you need a good grip. Grip is directly related to a good stance. You cannot have a good grip with a poor stance. Remember, the true measurement of a good grip and stance is in the quality of hit. The grip and stance must work for you.

Your stance must put you in position to see the angle of the shot. If you have having a hard time seeing the shot, it can be corrected in your stance. It must be well balanced. If someone pushes you while you are in your stance, you should not fall over. For right-handers, your right shoulder needs to be in a direct line with your target.

Once your mind is diverted from the fundamental approach to shooting balls, you will have problems. It all comes down to the one shot in front of you. Nothing more than the shot you are facing. And in order to succeed with that shot, your eyes must be coming right out of your stance. You see the shot, and you shoot the shot and the ball goes in. Keep doing this until you run out of shots.

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We all know that a game cannot start without the break. A good break will lead to a good game. There are many factors one needs to consider when breaking the rack. Often a different cue is used specifically for breaking. It's best not to get too anxious and try to be a power breaker from the get go. Start with a basic break until your game progresses.

The most important part of your game will be your break, so be sure you are very comfortable with it. Once you find a position and stance that is comfortable and you break the balls effectively, stay with that technique.

It can be particularly difficult for a beginning pool player to break a racked set of balls. This is a good way to practice and become comfortable with breaking. Start by putting the cue ball on the head spot. (When you get better, you can position the cue ball anywhere next to or behind the head spot to make the break.) After making sure your grip is correct and you have a comfortable stance, aim the cue ball to hit the leading ball of the rack squarely in the front. Do not stop your shot when you make contact with the cue. Follow through with a smooth motion for an extra 6-18 inches.

Practicing this now will help you later as you add speed and power to your break. Always try to hit the cue ball as hard as you can without your cue slipping off to one side or off the ball completely. A foul on a break is a very embarrassing way to start.

You will find that once you begin to gain confidence in your break, you will shoot harder and perform better breaks. Ideally, a good break is one in which no balls are left touching another ball.

The perfect break, when playing eight ball, would be to sink the eight ball off the break shot, thus gaining an immediate win! Though this situation arises rarely, it has been achieved and can be quite a thrill the first time it is accomplished.

The break is probably the most important shot of the game. It will set the playing field for all the shots to follow. Spend time on your breaking techniques and styles. Once you are comfortable breaking with the cue on the head spot, move the cue around to different positions. Moving the cue and striking the rack from different angles will have a different effect on the break.

Many players have mastered their break so that they sink at least two balls every time they break. It will take time and patience, but this is a shot you must master if you ever want to become a decent player. Often, players place the cue ball in the same position on the table when breaking. After trial and error and many hours of practice, you will find your own "hot spot" and will have an effective break almost every time.

Starting the game with a good break is extremely important. Ideally, a good break is one in which the balls scatter and none are left touching another. Initially, one would expect to use a heavy weighted cue for the break. Theoretically, that would make sense, to get the most power for your break. First, you need to understand the weights of different cue sticks. The average weight would be 19 oz., a light cue is 18 oz and a heavy cue is 20 oz. or more. Past experience has shown me that it really comes down to personal preference. However, many argue that it is all about physics, so let's take a look at that.

Break cue weight should be based on simple physics. The speed of the cue ball is what matters when breaking. A simple equation to remember is mass times velocity. The mass is referring to the object being propelled - in this case it would be the cue ball, which weighs 6 oz. The velocity is the way in which we propel the cue. So what we need to be concerned with is how fast we can propel the cue ball with the most control, not so much the power behind it.

A heavy cue will result in more force creating more momentum. However, a light cue will allow you more acceleration. After taking all this into consideration, they both seem to have their advantages, which once again, leaves it to personal preference. The force behind your shot will not only be determined by the weight of the cue, but by your style and positioning. Regardless of the weight being used, the power comes more from a solid contact on the cue and proper grip and stance.

Try them both, with slight alterations in your stance and positioning. You will find which is most comfortable and effective. The more you experiment, the more proficient your break will become, whether it's based on the laws of physics or personal preference.

When learning new techniques, always remember to master the basics first. Find your comfortable position and grip when breaking and master that approach before attempting to become a power breaker.

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It's difficult to tell if you'd like a cue stick just by reading about it. The terms that people use to describe characteristics (hard, soft, harsh, stiff, forgiving, well-balanced, etc.) are subjective and difficult to quantify. Some important things can be quantified (length, weight, balance point, shaft taper, shaft diameter, squirt), but they're not the whole story. If you're a beginner, or working on your game, you can expect your preferences to change as your game matures.

Beginners might use sticks provided by the place they play. But if you want to improve your game, you need to have your own cue and avoid the problem of adjusting to the length of the cue, the weight or diameter of the tip. It's important to take note of the type of cue that feels most comfortable. Experiment. Examine weight and length, and the diameter of the tip. After you've decided, you're ready to buy.

There are some points to consider: First, make sure that the cue stick is straight. Although most of the production cues are straight, it's always good to check. Just roll the cue stick on a flat surface, if it's crooked you'll notice right away. Another way is to look at the butt end of the cue while pointing the other end downwards, roll it a few times and you should be able to notice if it is straight or not. Second, consider the weight of the cue stick. Typically, a cue stick weighs between 18 to 21 ounces. Find out what weight is comfortable for you. Third, the length of the cue stick is dependent on the length of your arm. Longer arms, longer stick. The length of production cues typically starts at 57 inches.

If you'd like to customize it a bit, getting a two-part cue will add about $30 to your price. You can also add leather grips and decorations. A rule of thumb is if you pay more than $100 for a cue stick, you are paying for brand and ornamentation, not so much quality. A good tip is probably more important than the cue. Shun a cue that's more than two parts, has a screw-on tip, is painted in festive colors, or is made in Taiwan. Made in Japan is OK, the Adam line is one of the best. Get the best tips you can, the return on the money you spend is greater there than anywhere else. Seek good construction over looks. Compare sticks before choosing one that catches your eye. Feel comfortable with the weight & length. You'll be using this stick for years, so be sure your investment is right for you.

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The most essential piece of equipment for the game of pool is the cue stick, or simply the cue. It is a tapered stick typically 58 inches long and ranging between 18 and 21 ounces. They are primarily made of wood, but occasionally covered with other materials such as graphite or fiberglass. The length and weight can be altered to create a custom cue for the professional player.

There are three types of cue sticks. One type is the one piece cue. These are generally for the casual player and often stocked in pool halls. They have a uniform taper and standard length and weight. Another type is the two piece cue. This is usually divided in the middle and screwed together. The two piece cue makes for easy transport and storage in a case. The third type is also a two piece cue, but the joint is not in the middle, but further down on the butt, about 1/3 from the end.

There are different parts to a cue stick, all of which you should become familiar with. The shaft is the smaller, tapered end of the cue, and the butt is the wider, heavier end. When using a two piece cue, the pieces are attached at a joint which is made up of a screw coming from the butt that is screwed into the shaft. The joints can be made from an array of materials from plastic, wood or aluminum, to bone or antlers for more expensive sticks.

On the shaft, you will find the ferrule and the tip. The ferrule is the piece of white plastic immediately below the tip. It can be made of different materials, most commonly plastic for the casual player and brass for the more experienced player. The tips come in a variety of sizes and shapes, and can be custom rounded to suit your needs. Tips are primarily made of leather and are available in different hardness grades.

The butt of the cue is where you will find your weight. Whether you play with an 18 oz. cue or a 21, the weight is all in the butt. The cue butt is often the area that is most ornate. Many sticks have carvings, leather grips and various other inlaid objects that appeal to the eye. They add nothing to your game but a sense of pride when you pull out your dazzling cue and start a game.

Lastly, and often the most overlooked piece of a pool cue is the bumper. This is a round rubber piece attached to the butt. It offers protection when you place your cue down and also reduces the vibrations that travel through the cue on impact. On pricier cues, the bumper is made of leather.

The cue tip is active in every one of your shots and is of utmost importance to have a good, clean tip at all times. Cleanliness affects backspin, accuracy, touch, smoothness of stroke, and the precision of each shot. When your pool cue is not in use it should be maintained by by protecting the cue's tip from any damage it should be covered when not in play.

The spin/speed ratio on the cue ball depends primarily on the actual tip-ball contact point. You seldom want to hit the ball right in the middle, you don't want to miscue, and you want to have precise control of the spin. Therefore, a rounded tip is better than a flat tip. Shape the tip with a tip scuffer, a file, a piece of 400-600 sandpaper, or other similar abrasive tools.

Miscues occur when the tip slides on the surface of the ball. Along with other reasons, this happens when the tip doesn't hold chalk such as when it is packed down from hitting the cue ball and the surface is slick. If you tap the tip to give the surface some texture it will hold chalk better. You can buy special tools to tap the tip, or you can use a rasp, or a coarse file, or coarse sandpaper glued to a wood backing. Simply roll it over the tip surface. Scuffing with sandpaper also works, but it wears the tip away too fast. For maximal tip life, tap more, scuff less.

Tips can also mushroom, meaning that the leather bulges at the sides so that the tip is wider than the ferrule. Most pool players prefer to remove this bulge. The best way is to use a lathe, but there are other methods too. Fine sandpaper (600 grit or finer) can be used, but care should be taken not to scratch the ferrule. Cutting tools designed especially for this purpose are available, and pocket knives and razor blades can also be used, but again, avoid ferrule damage. After the mushroom bulge has been removed, the edge of the tip can be polished by wetting the sides and rubbing the leather edge firmly against the cloth on the top of a cushion or against a leather pad.

It is also important to maintain the ferrule. Over time, chalk, dirt, and other foriegn substances can build up on the ferrule and embed on your pool cue like a tar substance. Cleaning the ferrule and tip regularly by wiping it down can help to prevent this buildup from occurring (be sure that you dry it well). This makes for a smoother, cleaner, and better playing shaft, which can only serve to improve your game, and extend the usability of your pool cue.

Let's start by saying any shot that is not performed by a straight on centered approach will be difficult to master, not to mention hard to control. A shot that is made by aiming at any point other than the center of the cue, will cause the cue ball to be projected with a spin on it. Using backspin on your shot causes the cue ball to draw away from the object ball and return towards you upon contact with the object ball. It's normally done by hitting the cue ball below center. This is a difficult shot to master because hitting the cue ball below center normally creates a "miscue" specially for beginner players. Many players will "jump" the ball until they master this technique.

The distance the cue ball has to travel before impact with the object ball is a major consideration when using backspin. Another factor is the type of cloth on the table. Smoother cloths will have less friction thus allowing the cue ball more momentum to draw back as opposed to a rougher type of cloth were friction will hinder the momentum of the cue ball a lot more. Most higher priced tables are constructed with a smoother cloth, thus enabling players to apply backspin and English efficiently.

As the distance between the object ball and the cue ball increases, you will need to put more backspin on the cue ball. As stated, the cloth on the table surface may cause friction and reduce the speed of the balls and in turn, reduce the backspin. This is where the difficulty of the back spin comes into play. Many players find it very difficult to draw the cue ball at longer distances mostly because there is not enough back spin on the cue ball.

Backspin is a great tool to master when learning your techniques as a newer player. You will find this technique advantageous in many situations and it will increase your over-all game. The primary use of backspin is to avoid scratching when normally the cue would follow through on a shot. Placing backspin on the ball will allow you to make the shot and remain in control of the game. It will allow you to "set up" your next shot with a better leave than if you were to make a follow through shot. Many players apply backspin to their shots to create a good lay of the ball in preparation for their next shot.

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English or Sidespin is an advanced technique in pool referring to spin that is put on the cue ball. You can apply it in a number of ways. It comes down to aiming at the cue ball in different spots other than the straight center shot. You can hit the cue ball on the left side, LEFT English, or on the right side, RIGHT English. You can also apply the stop (center ball hit), draw (below center hit) or follow (above center hit) with English. English applied with draw is normally called low English while English applied with follow is called high English.

The left and right English shots will cause the ball to spin to either side. This is commonly referred to as inside or outside English. This technique is used primarily to alter the natural roll of the cue ball, thus causing it to curve to the desired side. This can be of use if you have a ball interfering with a straight on shot, or if you are looking to deflect the cue ball in a different direction.

Another effect of english is what is known as "Curve" or "Swerve". When a cue ball is hit low with a downward stroke using english, the cue ball tends to curve instead of moving in a straight line. This is a similar effect to a lesser degree to the masse shot. The direction of the curve will be the same as the direction of the spin. That means that if you have a low right english on the cue ball, it will curve to the left and back to the right. If you have a low left english on the cue ball, it will curve to the right and then back to the left.

There is also another effect of english that is known as "throw". When a cue ball with sidespin hits the object ball, the spin is transferred to the object ball but in the opposite direction. For example, a cue ball is hit with right english so it spins to the right or counter-clockwise, upon hitting the object ball an opposite spin (clockwise) is transferred to the object ball. The spin generated by the object ball causes it to be "thrown" to the direction opposite the spin on the cue ball.

One thing that makes english difficult is that it is hard to estimate the amount of deflection that you will get on the cue ball. Only with enough experience will you be able to make a good estimate. Players should concentrate on the centered shot and have it mastered before attempting to integrate English shots into their repertoire. Like all shots and techniques, you will need time and patience to develop your style and become successful at completing these shots.

There are a few different variations of the game, each with their own rules. It's suggested that every player be familiar with at least the three most common variations: Nine-Ball, Eight-Ball and Cut Throat.

We'll begin by summarizing the common Eight-ball game that most of us know. Many people refer to it as stripes and solids. Beware of your terminology though. If you go out and play with more accomplished players, you will find the correct terms would be high and low, not stripes and solids. The rules will vary depending the skill level. To keep it simple, all balls are racked with the eight ball in the center. Upon breaking, the ball that goes in first will be your ball. Play is rotated when a shot is missed or a foul committed. The main object is to sink all your balls and the eight ball before your opponent. Always remember the eight ball is your last ball to go in! As mentioned, there are many rules people play by, so be sure to specify them before beginning a game and make sure all players are clear and understand them.

The next variation is Nine-ball. In this game, the balls used are 1 through 9 and are racked as a diamond in order of number, with the nine ball in the center. The idea is to sink the balls in order from lowest number to highest, starting with the one ball. Any ball that goes in counts as long as the lowest numbered ball on the table is hit first. For example, if the lowest ball on the table is the four ball, you can either sink that ball or use that ball for a combination shot to sink another. If you fail to hit the lowest ball first, it is a foul and the other player will have cue in hand to place. The winner is the player who makes the nine on a legal shot.

The third common variation is cut-throat. This is a common three player game. Each player takes five balls, 1-5, 6-10, and 11-15, and the last player with a ball on the table wins, so the goal is to sink your opponents' balls. There are several variations. The penalty for a foul is to bring one of each of the other players' balls back onto the table. Sometimes this game is played with 3 different colored sets of balls to make it easier to keep track of who has what.

There are many ways to play pool, all with their own guidelines and rules. Find the style of your play first, then choose your game. The more you familiarize yourself with the different variations, the better player you will become.

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A rack is the name given to a frame (usually wood or plastic) used to organize the balls at the beginning
of a game.

The most common shape of a physical rack is that of a triangle, with the ball pattern of 5-4-3-2-1. Racks are sometimes called simply "triangles" (most often by amateur shooters) based on the predominance of this form. Triangular-shaped racks are used for eight-ball, straight pool, one-pocket, bank pool, snooker and many other games. Although diamond-shaped racks, with an intended pattern of 1-2-3-2-1, are made for the game of nine-ball, the triangular rack is more often employed in nine ball as well.

There is often argument over whether there is a proper way to rack the balls for an 8-ball game. While there is no particular method for the balls to be placed aside from the eight (for an 8-ball game) and nine ball (for nine-ball game), it's best to follow these simple methods.

Set the rack on the table and place the one ball in the top corner. Place two balls beneath the one ball. In eight-ball, fifteen object balls are used.

Standardized rules state that:
* The 8 ball must be in the center of the rack (the second ball in the three balls wide row).
* The first ball (traditionally but not mandatorily the 1 ball) must be placed at the apex position (front of the rack and so the center of that ball is directly over the table's foot spot).
* The two corner balls must be a stripe and a solid. In theory, this pattern allows for a more equal chance of sinking both a solid and a stripe because the two corner balls are the most likely balls to be pocketed on the break.
* All balls other than the 8 ball are placed at random, but in conformance with the preceding corner ball rule.
* The balls should be pressed tightly together without gaps, as this allows the best break possible.

In amateur eight-ball play a racking variant that is often followed is:
* The outer edges of the triangle must be in the pattern of solid, stripe, solid, stripe, etc. (resulting in the two corner balls being either both stripes or both solids).
* Sometimes, the balls must be placed in numeric order from the top of the triangle down and from left to right, i.e., the 1 on the foot spot, followed by the 2 then 3 in the second row, and so on. This always results in the corner balls of the rack being both stripes (the 11 and 15, respectively).

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The game of nine-ball has a totally different system of racking than 8 ball (obviously) since you are only playing with nine balls.

While you may use the same rack that you do in eight-ball, they sell special racks for nine-ball. The balls are racked in the shape of a diamond. Be sure to place the one ball at the upper point and the nine in the middle. Some players (most often amateurs) place the balls in numeric order but for the 9 ball; from the top of the triangle down and from left to right, i.e., the 1 on the foot spot, followed by the 2 then 3 in the second row, and so on. However, all balls other than the 1 and 9 may be randomly placed.

Regardless of what variation of the game you are racking for, it is always best to make sure it is a "tight rack". This refers to the spacing between the balls. Ideally, you would want the least amount of space. Now, be sure to roll the rack so that the 1 ball is exactly in the middle of the pool table "dot" on the billiard (pool) table. Use all eight of your fingers--not your thumbs--and push on the back roll of balls, forcing them tight in the 8-ball rack and making sure that the 1 ball is placed in the middle of the pool table "dot." This is very important, since it is difficult for your opponent to make a ball on the break if he's shooting at a "tight rack."

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After spending so much for your pool table, you should know how to properly care for it so it will last a life time. Not maintaining the table will affect your overall game and cost you a bundle in needed repairs.

If you have a new table, the cloth may interact with the roll of the balls for the break in period. This is completely normal, but to speed up the break-in process, it helps by brushing the cloth as frequently as possible. The table, new or used, should be brushed before and after every game played. Be sure to always brush the cloth in the same direction and never use circular motions. The surface may be vacuumed if necessary, again, always in the same direction. To avoid exposure to humidity, spills and other hazards, it is recommended that you cover the table when not in use.

Or you can say GOODBYE to brushes and vacuums forever and clean your billiard table cloth in less than 60 seconds with "Quick Clean" and a micro-fiber towel.

If your table doesn't return the balls, avoid excessive ball build up or storage in the pockets of your table. The balls will wear out the cloth around the pockets if they cannot drop freely inside. Stored balls for lengthy periods may also stretch the pockets depending on what material they are made from.

If your table has a natural wood finish, it should be dusted and cleaned frequently. Your investment may be for entertainment, but it is also a piece of furniture and a possible heirloom. Wood finishes can be restored by using a non-residue forming dusting agent, such as lemon oil. Never use a cleaner that contains ammonia as it can chemically damage the finish. Though it is possible to re-finish the wood if staining occurs, prevention is the best measure. Taking general care of the wood on the rails will lengthen the life of the table and reduce the possible cost of repairs in the future.

If you have your table stored in a rec room where food and drinks will be present, keep these tips in mine: Never set a can, glass or bottle on any part of the table. The moisture will cause damage and will also leave stains. A no food or drink policy is often in place at local pool halls, and they are never allowed near tournament tables.

Remember, do not sit or stand on any part of the table. Aside from possibly injuring yourself, you will affect the table leverage and the balls will not travel as they should. Keep unnecessary weight off of the table.

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The most important part of playing a good game is playing on a good table. The main table surface should be made from slate. The different grades of tables are reflective of price. On the high end of the scale, the table will be made using 7/8" - 1" thick slate. The lower scaled tables will use 3/4" slate. In either case, the slate will extend past the playing surface to the ends of the table, thus allowing extra support for the rails. The better tables will also have a wood backing for the surface cloth to be attached. Some lower-end tables don't have the wood backing, and the cloth is attached with a spray adhesive, which can cause puckering or peeling especially if moisture and humidity are prevalent. In older tables horizontal holes were drilled in the slate edges and filled with molten lead; screws running through the vertical edge of the rail were tightened into the lead-lined hole. In contrast, rails are attached to modern tables by inserting a bolt vertically through a hole in the slate and tightening it into the bottom of the rail, pulling the rail and slate together snugly.

You have many choices: Slate thickness, cloth color, material used for rails and pockets, etc. There are more than 30 color choices. Surfaces come in various weights, common choice is 20 to 22 ounces. Normally, a nylon-wool blend. The cloth used to cover the slate and the rails is designed specifically for pool tables. Although it's often referred to as felt (a fabric formed by compressing fibers rather than weaving), it is actually a woven fabric with a nap on one surface.

Rails and pockets are personal choices for color and materials. You can go plain or have carved rails with leather pockets. Your playing surface and felt should be the main concern for quality. Diamond- or circular-shaped sights embedded in the rail tops are usually made of mother of pearl, abalone shell, or plastic. Pocket irons may be made of cast iron, zinc alloy, aluminum, rubber, or high-impact styrene plastic. Traditionally, pocket liners are made of leather (solid or net), but plastic or rubber is also used.

A well made table will last you years. An inexpensive table might have particle board components instead of wood. Tables vary widely in quality and cost; a casual player who wants a table for a few years of personal recreation can get one for around $600. Popularly priced well-built tables, that are durable and attractive can cost $1,600-$3,000 and up.

Obviously, one of the major pieces of equipment needed to play pool is the set of balls. Without them, there would be no game! The balls are designed specifically for the game and coincide with the physics involved in overall play. As you read, you will learn how the balls are made, what materials are used, regulation weights and more. You will soon find that it is not just an ordinary orb placed on the table, and that much design and engineering is involved.

The earliest balls were made of wood clay. These were used for years until the use of ivory came into play. Ivory balls were short lived. By the 1800's, millions of elephants were being slaughtered to obtain the ivory used to make the balls as well as many other items. Only eight balls could be made from one elephant! Seeing this as unfit, a new material was sought after.

A composition material was then invented, called cellulose nitrate. It was later commercially branded Celluloid, also known as the first industrial plastic to be marketed. Thought to be a great invention for making the balls, the material was soon not accepted as it caused the balls to occasionally explode, making these plastic billiard balls impractical. The invention of this material served many other useful purposes as the use of plastic became more accepted, but as for the pool game, it was unacceptable.

Other compounds were experimented with until the perfect material had been found. Today's balls are cast from phenolic resin. This material is resistant to chipping and cracking and has become an industry standard. It is the only ball material used today in play by professionals. There are lower grade balls made of polyester, but use of these result in shorter ball and cloth life.

The balls we commonly see today are made of resin and are regulated by weight and color. The standard ball has a weight of 5.5 to 6 oz. with the cue ball at a standard 6 oz. The balls are colored and grouped into solids and stripes and numbered accordingly. Custom balls are available offering an assortment of colors and markings and are often used in trick shooting to add visual appeal.

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Though it is not known exactly when or where the sport originated, it has been believed that the earliest form was from France. It was a version like that of an indoor lawn game similar to croquet. The object of the game was to push a ball through a croquet-like wicket to hit a peg, similar to the stake in croquet. Players used a club-like stick, which became known as the "mace".

During the early 19th century, American craftsmen began to make tables. Billiard tables originally had flat vertical walls for rails, and their only function was to keep the balls from falling off the table. The rails resembled river banks, and used to be called banks. When players found out that the balls would bounce off the rails, they began to deliberately aiming at the banks. That was the invention of the "bank shot".

Billiards became associated with pool parlors in large cities. The word "pool" at the time meant gambling, but it was soon attached to the American form of pocket billiards and is still commonly known as pool.

As the years passed, the sport became more popular and more developed. Many variations of the game were created and many techniques developed and mastered. In America, billiards, or pool as we know it, was becoming an up and coming sport. Originally, due to the extreme cost of making the table, it was considered to be a rich man's sport. As other ways to manufacture tables became known, along with use of different materials, the tables became more affordable to a wider population and the popularity increased dramatically.

The most popular form of pool, eight ball, was invented in the early 1900's. This was then followed by nine ball and cut throat. Three of the most common forms of the game known. It's suspicious and unknown origin may always be a mystery to us as we continue to expand on game variations, development, technique and technology. It is a sport and a leisure that is here to stay. Even today, though we already have our standard variations of the game, we see different styles and approaches arise continuously. Professionals are always eager to take the next step and be the first to make a newly developed shot or master their own personally created technique.

Rack 'em up, grab a cue and concentrate on your strategy. Pool (or Billiard) players must focus on the immediate, blocking out distractions as they plan their next moves. Strategic planning increases mental clarity. Concentrating on the immediate helps keep your mind sharp. Furthermore, this game of angles demands that players think in terms of physics, something most of us rarely do in our everyday lives. And it's a brilliant way to pass the time.

(Excerpted from http://selfpursuit.com/34/increase-brain-activity/)