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Go Retrofit Your Halogen Downlights!

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Or, how to save money and the environment with a few easy steps

This energy efficiency lens by our solar loving team leader dispels the myth that it is hard to change downlights, and highlights that whilst they are often low voltage, they are NOT low energy.

You need to change your halogen downlights to save electricity, save greenhouse emissions, whilst reducing cooling costs AND reducing fire danger.

Here's how you can change them...

Changing those hot little wasteful downlights

or, how to save the environment and money forever with a small investment

I found out about downlight replacement whilst on the Sydney Energy website.

Before you read on, you might want to read about electrical safety at EnergyAustralia.

As an alternative to this site, you could consider visiting my eHow page at http://www.ehow.com/how_5027586_retrofit-downlights.html, where similar material is discussed.

So, why change your downlights? The simple fact is that you will:
1. Save 35W per bulb as you change from 50W halogens to 15W standard compact fluorescent lightbulbs - as in you'll save at least 70%, if not more considering the transormers.
2. You'll save a commensurate amount of emissions - saving the world!
3. As more people do it, the actual amount of generation capacity required will be reduced, thereby taking pressure of government budgets; and
4. You will also be reducing your fire risks - Halogens have been identified as a fire risk by the CFA.

So, How would you go about it ?

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

* small screwdriver, insulated, suitable for terminal screws
* step ladder (fibreglass preferred)
* pliers, insulated
* gyprock saw or serated knife
* (maybe) twin and earth cable, size 1.5mm sq or 2.5mm sq
* rubber sole shoes and workwear
* optional - white gloves

Step 1
Identify the lights you would like to change, counting the number of fittings, and noting the colour of the fitting (usually white, but sometimes silver or brushed metal). Purchase replacement fittings that most closely resemble those in use to minimise disruption to the aesthetics of the space (if the room is used by others). Most downlights will be 50W, in which case they are best replaced by 15W CFL bulbs, usually in warm white colour and edison screw (ES) base. Note that all 240V electrical work in Australia should be done by a licensed electrician.
2.
Step 2
Circuit breaker in meterbox - courtesy Clipsal Australia
Circuit breaker in meterbox - courtesy Clipsal Australia

Go to the meterbox. Turn off the power to the relevant light circuits in the meterbox. For modern meterboxes, the switch looks like that in the photo (these are called miniature circuit breakers, or MCBs) - there should be one or more marked 'light circuits'. Alternatively, in older style houses there may be a ceramic fuse holder, or fuse holder paired with an isolating switch - in which case the whole fuse needs to be pulled out. If the light circuit cannot be isolated separately, you will need to turn off the electricity supply to the entire house. Such a switch will be marked main isolator or normal supply main switch. Place a sign or tape over the switch to signal to others why it is off, and lock in off position if possible. Verify circuit is off by switching light switch and observing non-operation of the lights concerned.
3.
Step 3

Once it has been confirmed that the light circuits are off and are safe, you can begin removing the existing fittings. In some cases, the edges of the fitting have been painted over, in which case you can use a sharp knife to cut around the round edge of the fitting - this will ensure paint will not peel off the entire surrounding ceiling surface as you remove the bulb. Now, use the tips of the fingers of both hands, or a screw driver, to gently pull the flat flange of the light fitting down from the ceiling. It will quickly become apparent that two spring fittings are holding the light in place - as these become obvious, try to use your fingers to push these springs against the fitting as you pull the fitting down - this will prevent the springs damaging plaster at the edge of the hole ("cutout"). You should see the fitting is connected to a wire leading into the ceiling.
4.
Step 4
Standard Iron Core Transformer
Standard Iron Core Transformer

Once the fitting has been pulled down, you can usually disconnect it and the bulb from the wire, and place to one side. Now, keep pulling on the wire (slowly) and the transformer will come into view. Usually the transformer will also be dragging some dust with it, so bear this in mind when looking up at it. Pull the entire transformer through the cutout, till you are able to access its terminal screws. If it is an iron core transformer, as illustrated, it will be somewhat heavy, so be careful not to let it drop on your head. Some downlight transformers have a standard plug on them, in which case, you might like to get plug-in downlight replacements. Usually, they'll be hard wired in, and you'll need to unscrew the terminals on the transformers at this point.
5.
Step 5
Junction Box showing Earth Wire

In Australia, you will see that there is a cable in front of you made up of three inner cables (red - active, black - neutral, and green/yellow - earth) and a white outer insulating sheath. In some cases, the cable may not contain an earth wire. In that case, an earth wire will need to be fitted at the nearest junction box.
6.
Step 6

The final step is to connect your energy saving (and money saving<) downlight. You'll need to make sure that you have properly extended it (there are usually screws/bolts on the left and right side of the fitting on a kind of 'slider'), simply install the bulb by turning it in the fitting, and adjust till the bulb glass section does not protrude from the fitting. Once assembled, connect the red wire to the terminal marked A (active) or L (live), the black wire to N (Neutral), and the green/yellow wire to E (earth) on the downlight replacement fitting. You might find the wire colours are not as described above, in which case, you'll need to research that using the internet or phoning friends. You can then poke the assembly back up through the cutout, taking care to avoid any wooden beams above. As you poke the fitting through, be sure to fold the springs back in against the fitting before inserting into the ceiling, such that the spring legs will be inside the ceiling cavity. Usually, the fitting can just be forced up into the existing cutout, but sometimes you'll need to slightly expand the cutout around the spring hinge with a gyprock saw (or similar).
7.
Step 7

Go to the meterbox, turn on the light circuit by switching on the breaker or replacing the relevant fuse assembly. Go back to the room, turn on the light switch and verify the lights are operational (turn off the circuit again if any remedial work is required). Let the lights warm up, and enjoy the savings!

There you are, your really can retrofit halogen downlights!!!

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