Reptiles Make Great Pets!

The following is a direct refutation of HSUS's article on how keeping reptiles is hazardous to your health, and to theirs.

It's true--the reptile trade has been rough on reptiles in the past, and in some areas, it still is. While many reptiles are captured for the pet trade, others are headed for the meat market. Larger reptiles are eaten, skinned and turned into leather, and used in other ways. Some reptiles are used in traditional medicine. The pet trade alone is not responsible for all of the depletion of wild reptile populations, but its role must be acknowledged.

HOWEVER...
Collecting reptiles for the pet trade provides work for indigenous peoples, and this income feeds their families. This is work they can do WITHOUT cutting down the forest and destroying vital habitat. If people can make a living by leaving the wild habitats alone, then reptiles will always have a place to live. If they can't...then they will sell lumber, plant crops, or raise cattle instead. The reptiles will be gone anyhow, but this time with no hope at all of recovery in that area. The importation of wild caught reptiles is not a black and white issue. Stopping importation will not save these animals. If importation of reptiles into the US was ceased, no fewer animals would be taken from the wild--they would simply be shipped off to China and other countries instead, where they remain in high demand. Here in the US we have the knowledge and means to keep and breed these animals successfully. We can work to improve things over time, but do not be fooled--ending the importation of wild reptiles will NOT help reptiles in the wild. It's sad, but it's true! More than 50% of reptiles now kept in the US were not imported--they were bred right here, in captivity, and have never been wild. The HSUS's statement that most reptile pets are caught wild is simply not true. It was true a decade ago...but no longer. If you don't want to support the trade in wild reptiles, then buy captive bred instead!

Some reptiles can be high-maintenance. It's true! Some species require very special care to survive in captivity. Some of the reptiles that require more care than most people realize include turtles and tortoises, iguanas, and chameleons. Some reptiles grow large, and have big space requirements.

HOWEVER....
Many reptiles remain small, and have very modest care requirements. They are no more difficult to care for than a tropical fish tank! Reptiles need a source of controlled heat (a thermostat or rheostat hooked up to a heat pad), a tightly locking cage, places to hide, fresh water, and a clean environment. Some species require special UVB lighting--easily provided, as pet stores carry these lights, which should be replaced every 6 months. Thermometers and hygrometers round out the equipment, to let you know that you're keeping the temperature and humidity right. Insectivores need some calcium dust on their insects. No problem!
Most snakes can be taught to accept frozen/thawed rodents, so there is no need to feed them live mice or rats. Most snakes do not need special lighting, so they're even easier to care for than lizards are.
So long as you do your research in advance, and get the species that is right for your level of experience, you will not find keeping reptiles to be difficult at all!
HSUS's claim that some reptiles grow larger than their owners realize comes back around to doing your research in ADVANCE. Some DOGS grow larger than their owners realize...we don't say that dogs are bad pets just because SOME owners are ignorant!
No responsible reptile owner--and most reptile owners ARE RESPONSIBLE PEOPLE--would release a pet reptile into the wild. This is no more acceptable than releasing a cat or a dog.
Properly kept, reptiles aren't any more prone to disease than other animals. Owners can easily learn what signs to look for to identify illness, and take their pet to a reptile-experienced veterinarian. Most reptile illnesses can be treated successfully by a vet for not too much money. Veterinary expenses are part of the ownership of ANY pet, including dogs and cats.

Reptiles may carry salmonella. It's true! They MAY harbor this zoonotic bacteria in their digestive system, and shed it in their feces. Salmonella is difficult to test for, because if they have it, it may not be shed at all times.

HOWEVER....
They also might not. Not all individual reptiles harbor salmonella. MANY other animals can carry salmonella, including cats and dogs, and quite a number of cases of salmonella occur each year because small children rarely wash their hands every time they play with the dog, or pet the cat. Of course the biggest salmonella risk in the average home is your chicken dinner. Salmonella infection is very easily prevented with simple hand washing. Wash your hands after handling your reptiles or their equipment, and you will not catch salmonella from them. You should wash your hands after touching ANY animal, or preparing raw meat, etc. That's only common sense!

Additionally, salmonella is the only significant health risk involved in keeping most reptiles. Dogs and cats carry a whole LIST of dangerous zoonotic diseases and parasites, and in a recent Australian study, as many as 10% of all dogs may be carrying something that could make their owner sick. Dogs and cats are FAR more dangerous to your health than reptiles are!

So, don't let HSUS pull the wool over your eyes--if you want a quiet, easy to care for pet that doesn't take up a lot of space, consider a pet reptile. Do your research in advance and choose the species that you can comfortably care for, and enjoy your new hobby!

You've probably read about how Burmese pythons are taking over and decimating the Everglades, and about how dangerous giant constrictors are. You may have even read about how they're going to colonize the entire lower half of the US.

Balderdash!

Of the estimated 100,000 Burmese in the Everglades, they only managed to capture 39 last year. Are we expected to believe their estimation actually has some basis in fact? If they cannot find more than 39 animals, how in the world did they determine that there are thousands? These folks truly do believe that the public is stupid.

There is no evidence that Burmese pythons are 'decimating' wildlife in the Everglades. In fact, it is far too soon to make any predictions about what impact they will have on that ecosystem. You may have heard that they have no natural predators--that is true, but very deceptive! They have no NATURAL predators because they are not NATIVE. There are MANY native species that prey on Burmese pythons at all stages of their life cycle. Hatchling Burmese are taken readily by any predator big enough to kill them, and they aren't hard to kill. Their only defense is a venom-free bite that isn't very painful, and camouflage. Adult Burmese are being eaten by alligators. The sensationalized photo of a dead alligator protruding from the split stomach of a Burmese often wasn't accompanied by the whole story. The snake didn't take prey that was too large for it...what actually happened is that after it swallowed the alligator, another alligator bit off its head...
Sounds like the gators are still winning!

These large constrictor snakes come from tropical areas, and the subtropical environment of the Everglades is marginal habitat for them. They can survive there, but thriving is a different story. The cold snap experienced in Southern Florida in the winter of 2010 killed huge numbers of non-native species outright. Among the dead were most of the Burmese pythons. We can say 'most', because every single snake that was implanted with a radio tracker died.

The USGS report written by Rodda and Reed has been widely condemned as pure bad science. It was written to support an agenda--to aid a Florida politician in legislating a ban on these animals. This ban will result in funds pouring in to fight the perceived problem. It's all about the cash flow.
The report shows that most of the lower US is suitable habitat for Burmese pythons and several other large constrictors. The map used is based on projections of climate affected by global warming! This is incorrect for MANY reasons...the first of which is the fact that climate change will cause COLDER winters, and these animals simply cannot tolerate the cold. They do not have the instincts to seek shelter to avoid it! What's more, most of the habitat in the lower US is simply not the right type of ecosystem for large constrictors to survive. They even show tropical rainforest animals living in desert areas! It is, quite frankly, ridiculous.

The danger of large constrictor snakes has also been highly exaggerated. While it is true that they CAN be dangerous, when safe handling practices are used, keeping a giant snake is less hazardous than keeping a horse. The recent tragedy of a 2 year old being killed by a pet Burmese in Florida leaves many questions unanswered. The circumstances were highly suspicious, and most people familiar with giant snakes doubt that the snake was responsible for the girl's death. There is strong reason to believe that the snake was framed in an attempt to cover up a murder. The most significant reason to believe this is that the snake was simply too small to have seen anything bigger than a small rabbit as potential food. It was also emaciated and probably weak. This snake was barely over the limit for safe handling by a single person alone. The fact that the police were not permitted inside until they got a warrant...well, that speaks for itself.

Keeping ANY large animal is not for everyone. Only knowledgeable and experienced people should keep giant snakes. There is no reason, however, why knowledgeable and experienced people should be BARRED from keeping giant snakes. No giant snake has ever killed a human outside of its own household, and the number of people killed by giants in the last decade is less than the number of people killed by dogs last YEAR. Less than the number killed by horses, or cattle. There were more people who died last year from septic cat bites than were killed by giant pythons. They very simply are NOT as dangerous as they have been made out to be. When safe handling practices are followed, they can make spectacular pets. The potential for rare accidents is not a sufficient reason to take away peoples' freedom to keep pets.

Do you think you might want to try your hand at keeping a pet reptile? There are several things to take into consideration before you bring your new scaly friend home!

First consideration: Size!
How much room do you have to house a reptile? Some species can be kept in a cage the size of a 10 gallon fish tank, while others may require an entire room!

Tiny reptiles include dwarf geckos and lizards such as anoles, day geckos, and curly tails. Snakes such as DeKay's, ring-necked, ribbon, and green snakes also fall into this category, as do many more. Most of these animals can be housed in enclosures ranging in size from a 10 gallon to 20 gallon glass tank, or similar-sized cage.

Small reptiles include leopard and fat-tail geckos, most colubrid snakes including king, milk, garter, and corn snakes, childrens pythons, sand boas, grandis day geckos, crested geckos, and carpet chameleons, just to name a few. Reptiles of this size can be housed in 20 to 30 gallon tanks or similar-sized enclosures. Breeding groups of some species may require more space.

Medium reptiles include bearded dragons, water dragons, frilled lizards, uromastyx, ball pythons, rainbow boas, small island forms of Boa constrictor, large rats snakes, painted turtles, and mediterranean tortoises, among others. Animals in this size range often require 50 gallon to 100 gallon tanks or similar-sized cages, or 3ft by 4ft enclosures.

Large reptiles include giant green iguanas, savannah monitors, blood pythons, some boa constrictors, leopard tortoises, red-eared sliders, and similar animals. These animals need large enclosures, or ponds, measuring over 6 ft by 4 ft in some cases.

Giant reptiles include large monitor lizards such as Nile and Water monitors, giant constrictors such as Burmese and Reticulated pythons, the largest subspecies of boa constrictor, spur-thighed tortoises, alligator snapping turtles, and crocodilians. These animals need very large enclosures--in some cases, entire rooms set up just for them.

Second consideration: Experience!
Whether you have successfully kept reptiles before, and which species you have kept, will have a lot to do with choosing which species is best for you now.

Are you a newbie reptile keeper? If so, you definitely do not want to start out with a giant reptile, or with a species that is difficult to care for, nor with a species that lives for a very, very long time.
Some good choices for beginners include tiny lizards such as green anoles, house geckos, and dwarf geckos that live for 5 to 10 years, small reptiles such as leopard geckos and garter, and corn snakes that live for 15 to 30 years, and medium-sized reptiles such as ball pythons and that live for 15 to 30 years.

Have you kept reptiles successfully in the past, and are ready for something more difficult?
Consider species such as day geckos, crested geckos, bearded dragons, mediterranean tortoises, rainbow boas, or uromastyx.

Are you an experienced reptile keeper who has kept reptiles for many years, and you feel you're ready for a real challenge?
Chameleons and giant reptiles are among the most challenging animals to keep, for various reasons.

Third consideration: Time!
Some species require more commitment of time and labor than others do.

If you have very little time to care for a pet, then a python or boa could be the right choice for you. Most species of pythons and boas spend the majority of their time hiding or resting. Due to their low metabolic rate, they eat once every week to 10 days, or even only once every 2 or 3 weeks for a few species, once they are fully grown. Since they eat just once a week, this also means they defecate once a week--so you may only have to clean the cage 2 or 3 times per week to remove urates and feces, and disinfected once a month. Providing clean, fresh water is your only other task. You can leave a ball python with a clean full bowl of water and a clean cage, and go away on vacation for a weekend without needing to have someone come to look after it.

If you have a bit more time, then consider a small lizard, or a garter snake. Most lizards need to be fed only every other day. They do eat live insects, which have to fed good food themselves, and then be dusted with calcium. Crested geckos can be fed a commercial diet exclusively. Some lizards require a daily misting of water, though automatic misting systems are available. Most small lizard and garter snake cages will need to be spot-cleaned 3 or 4 times per week, and disinfected twice a month. Some tiny lizards can be kept in planted vivariums which, if set up properly with isopods and springtails in the soil, do not require more than occasional cleaning of the glass and plant leaves, and may only need to be thoroughly cleaned and broken down once a year.

If you have plenty of time to care for a reptile, then you may consider an omnivorous or herbivorous species, such as a blue-tongued skink, bearded dragon, uromastyx, or tortoise. Some chameleons also fall into this category.

If you can devote huge amounts of time and labor to reptile care, then you may consider some of the most high-maintenance types of reptiles, including water turtles, water dragons, crocodilians, and many chameleons. These animals may be very messy, requiring frequent changes of cage bedding and water--or they may have special requirements such as daily spraying of the eyes for some chameleons, and weekly showers in the bathtub. Keeping these species will keep you busy, but many people feel they are worth it!

Fourth consideration: Interaction!
Reptiles do not like to be handled, but some species can learn to tolerate it, and a few may even learn to look to humans for food, and seek them out.

If you really want an animal you can hold that will seek attention:
Bearded dragons, uromastyx, tortoises, and some other herbivorous and omnivorous species are well known for learning that humans bring good food. These species may come to you for a handout, and become extremely comfortable with handling.

If you want an animal that will be fine with handling, but don't mind if it doesn't come to you:
Ball pythons, corn snakes, leopard geckos, red-eared sliders, and boa constrictors are examples of species that are generally docile and calm, and will eat from an owner's hand and tolerate quite a bit of handling.

If you want an animal that can be held occasionally, but don't mind if you can't handle it often:
Rainbow boas and water dragons are a couple examples of species that you need to take time to tame, and won't overly appreciate much handling.

If you want an animal that you can handle in a pinch, but do not plan to touch it unless necessary:
Tiny lizards can become tame and eat from your hands or from forceps, but are too fragile to handle often. Chameleons also cannot be handled extensively, due to their sensitivity to stress. Green tree pythons can be aggressive, and will often try to bite. Decide if you are willing to deal with aggressive species, or simply species that are best looked at rather than touched.

If you want an animal that you really cannot handle, but is there just to look at:
The most aggressive animals fall into this category. Crocodilians should not be handled. Crocodile monitors, many Nile monitors, and some tiny dwarf geckos which are too delicate to handle directly are all examples of reptiles that can only be moved through indirect handling--hooks, catch-poles, cages, or a deli cup, depending on the size and reason. These species are strictly hands-off.

Fifth consideration: Price!
The cost of the equipment needed to maintain your pet should be the first thing you determine when you're considering purchasing a pet reptile. Some species with high price tags are fairly inexpensive to keep, while other species with very low price tags can be VERY expensive to care for properly.
Snakes are the least expensive reptiles to keep, followed by lizards and tortoises, then turtles, then crocodilians. There are some exceptions, but this is a general rule.
Expect to spend at least $100 minimum to outfit ANY reptile. Expenses can go up from there.
Prices for actual animals can range from $5 for a green anole, all the way up to $20,000 for a prize ball python color mutation. The more difficult species are definitely not necessarily the most expensive.

Sixth consideration: Longevity.
Are you going off to college in 2 years? Are you new to reptiles, and unsure if they're right for you? Do you really love them and want a pet that will be with you forever?

Reptiles with short lifespans include tiny lizards and chameleons. These animals tend to live for less than 10 years. These are a great choice for teenagers and for adults who are new to reptiles, and don't want a huge commitment yet.

Reptiles with more modest lifespans of 30 years or so include leopard geckos, corn snakes, and ball pythons.

The biggest commitment of course comes with tortoises, which may live longer than human beings do, and must be put in your will!

When you consider what species of reptile you want to keep, rate it using all of the above factors, so that you can choose a reptile that best fits in with your lifestyle and home!

Most people who start out keeping reptiles will fail if they have not done advance research on the species they are trying to keep. This happens for a number of reasons. First, many owners ask pet stores for information on how to care for the animals they buy. Unfortunately, pet store workers, and even owners, may not know how to maintain the animals they sell in the long term. You need to seek specialist information for that, just as you would for tropical or marine fish.

As the Reptile Nation has grown, more companies have created and marketed specialized products for keeping reptiles healthy and happy in captivity.

Here is a list of the basic requirements for keeping reptiles properly:

1) A controlled heat source. Reptiles come from different climates around the world. Because they are ectothermic, and don't generate their own body heat, it is essential that they be kept at the same temperatures they would be at in the wild. So, if a reptile comes from a tropical rainforest where the daytime temperatures are 80F to 85F, then that temperature range should be inside their cage as well. Tropical reptiles cannot tolerate cold--some reptiles from mountain regions or more northern regions cannot tolerate excessive heat. It is very important to know the temperature requirements of the species you are going to keep.

Use a thermostat or rheostat to adjust the temperature of your heating device. Some heating devices do a better job than others. For desert species, overhead heating works great, but it can be too drying for rainforest animals. Undertank heaters are recommended for many species. They can also be attached to the back of a tank for arboreal species. Radiant heat panels work well for arboreal species. Heat tape, heat cords, and ceramic heat elements can also be used. Use thermometers to test the temperatures in different places in the cage. A thermometer with a remote probe works best--the type that stick on the glass are not very accurate, as they may register the glass temperature instead of the air.

Most reptiles do best with a heat gradient. This means that one end of the cage is much warmer than the other end. The warm end has a basking area--temperatures are usually 10 or even 20 degrees hotter there than they are on the cool side of the tank. Care sheets for reptiles will include both an air temperature and a basking temperature, so you can adjust your cage's climate properly. This basking area allows reptiles to thermoregulate--that means they can adjust their body temperature. A reptile that has just eaten may want to warm up in order to digest its food. This is a more natural way of living, and it's healthier for the animal than simply keeping it at one set temperature.

Improper temperatures are hazardous to reptiles' health, which is why controlled heat ranks first on your equipment list. Reptiles kept too cold may become sick with various infections, as it compromises their immune system. Reptiles kept too hot may die of heat prostration or dehydration. Always check your temperatures and get the best equipment you can afford to keep them right.

2) Proper humidity levels. Some reptiles come from desert regions, where humidity is extremely low. In many cases, these reptiles will hide during the heat of the day in burrows, which may be cooler and damp inside. As a result, some desert species need to be provided with a humid hide--this is simply a plastic tub or cave that is completely enclosed, with an access hole on top that they can climb in and out of. It should contain damp sphagnum moss or paper towel, and be cleaned and changed regularly. Not all desert species require this.
Some reptiles come from tropical rainforest regions with a high humidity. Humidity levels over 80% are needed to keep some animals well-hydrated and healthy. Low humidity can be devastating to these species. There are devices now on the market for raising and regulating humidity. For high-humidity species, an ultrasonic fogger such as a ReptiFogger can be used, along with a hygrostat which will turn the device on and off to meet a set humidity level, can be the ideal solution. Some species need more air flow than others, so make sure you check care requirements carefully for the species you want. It can be tough to keep a high humidity and temperature along with a high airflow in some climates.

3) Lighting. Most species need 12 hours of sunlight and 12 hours of night in order to sleep properly. As a general rule, animals that are nocturnal do not need any special lighting. You can use the same lighting you would for your home. Animals that are diurnal (awake during the day), however, DO need special lighting. These animals require a special spectrum of light from the sun called UVB. This allows them to manufacture vitamin D in their skin, and is essential to their health. These special lights are sold at most pet stores. Follow the instructions on the light carefully, as several different types are now available. Make sure that it says "UVB", and not just "UV". UVB lights may be fluorescent or mercury-vapor, but are never incandescent. Place them at the correct distance from basking areas so that the reptiles will be exposed to the UVB light while they bask. Most snakes do not require UVB lighting. Many lizards and all turtles and crocodilians do require it.

4) Proper cage size. Some species require much larger cages than others, and the size of the animal does not always dictate the size of the cage needed. For example, a single grandis day gecko requires the same amount of space as a ball python, despite the huge difference in their size. Make sure that your cage is larger for very active, diurnal animals, and smaller for sedentary, nocturnal species. Some reptiles actually will not thrive in a cage that is too large for them. This may be because they live in burrows or enclosed areas in the wild, and find open space intimidating. Other species are so active, they need a very large cage to avoid being stressed. Naturally, make sure your cage is secure, and can be locked or latched tightly. Snakes can be very strong. Some types of cages can be kept humid more easily than others, so take that into consideration as well.

5) Hides. Reptiles are usually prey animals, in the wild. They need shelters in order to feel secure. They can be stressed (which will compromise their immune system and health) if they have no where to flee to and hide from danger. Many reptiles, especially snakes, will spend a majority of their time in hiding, venturing forth only to seek out food and water. Place appropriately-sized hiding boxes or caves on each side of the cage. This allows the reptile to hide in a hotter area or a cooler one, as it chooses, and it doesn't have to trade safety for comfort. If you want to see your reptile more often, choose a species that spends less time in hiding--don't try to force a shy species out into the open.

6) Water source. Every animal needs water. A very few desert species get virtually all of their water from the food they eat, but for most species, you will need to provide them with a shallow dish of clean water. Some species need more--a deeper pool of water that they can swim in. This must be kept scrupulously clean. Filtration can help with aquatic species, but you will need some truly LARGE filters to do a proper job of it. Many species of arboreal lizards will not drink water from a dish. They must be sprayed with a mister once or twice each day, so they can drink from the water droplets. Automatic misting systems can help with this, if you do not have time or feel that you might forget. Set up on a timer, these systems are not inexpensive, but they will make caring for these species much easier.

7) Cage furniture.
Some species are 'fossorial'. This means they live underground. Fossorial species need something they can burrow into, to hide, in the cage. This can be soil or coconut fiber, aspen shavings, or sand. Sand can be hazardous to some species, so do your research before you decide to use it. Fossorial species should have everything they require placed on the floor of the cage, and do not generally need any branches. Live plants may be dug up, so using fake ones may be a better choice.
Some species of reptiles are 'terrestrial'. This means they live on the ground. Newspaper, slate, cage carpet, soil or coconut fiber, aspen shavings, or bark can be used for terrestrial species. Sand (even calcium sand) is not recommended for the majority of terrestrial species, as they may eat it, and develop an intestinal impaction. For desert species, pieces of wood and bark and plastic plants can be used. For temperate or tropical species, live low-growing plants and large sturdy branches placed low down in the cage will provide a more natural environment.
Some species or reptiles are 'arboreal'. This means they live up in bushes and trees. Newspaper, slate, cage carpet, soil, coconut fiber, aspen, or bark can be used. Of course, arboreal species aren't often found in deserts, so sand is not appropriate for them. Several sturdy climbing branches should be used, including one that is only a short distance below the basking lamps or UVB light. Live plants of various kinds can be used for most species, as can plastic plants. Provide plenty of climbing space and foliage to make them comfortable. Food and water dishes may need to be placed elevated, as some species don't like to set foot on the ground.

That's really all you need! Wasn't that easy? Just make sure you have the right combination for the species you are keeping!

In recent years, captive breeding of reptiles with color and pattern mutations has resulted in a cornucopia of incredible looking animals. By combining different mutations, brilliantly colored animals have been produced that look like nothing ever found in nature. These mutations can sell for large amounts of money, and can be big business.

In this article, I will go over some of the basics, so beginners can become more familiar with the genetics of these amazing animals.

The terms:
There are three primary types of mutations found in reptiles. They aren't the only types of mutations involved, but they are the most easily understood and common.

Every animal that is born or hatched contains two sets of genes--one set from each parent. If an animal has only one copy of a mutant gene (one parent passed on a mutant gene, but the other passed on a normal gene), it is said to be heterozygous for that mutant trait. If the animal has two copies of a mutant gene (both parents passed on the mutant gene), then it is said to be homozygous for that trait.

Dominant mutation: The mutant gene is dominant, and it is expressed (shows up outwardly in the animal), while the normal gene is suppressed (doesn't show up). If the animal receives only one copy of the gene from one parent, and a normal gene from the other parent, it will look like a mutant. If the animal receives one copy of the mutant gene from each parent (2 copies) it will look exactly the same as if it had only one copy.

Recessive mutation: The mutant gene is recessive, and if a normal gene is present, the mutant gene is suppressed. If the animal carries only one copy of the mutant gene (it is heterozygous), it will look normal. If both parents carried the mutant gene, and passed it on, and the animal has two copies of that mutant gene, then the gene will be expressed and it will look like a mutant. An example of a recessive gene in humans is blue eyes. If your mother has blue eyes, but your father has brown eyes (and does not carry the blue-eye gene), then you will have brown eyes. Blue eyes is a recessive gene, so two copies have to be present for it to show up outwardly.

Co-Dominant mutation: The mutant gene is co-dominant, and is only partially expressed when one copy is present--it is fully expressed when two copies are present. This is just like the recessive gene, except that the animal that is heterozygous LOOKS like a mutant, instead of looking normal. The animal that carries two copies of the gene (is homozygous) is often referred to as the 'super form'.

Here are some of the most common mutations found in reptiles:

Albino (AKA amelanistic): This is a mutation in which the black coloration is completely missing. Most albinos are also completely missing the brown coloration, so they will be yellow and white. Amelanistic animals have red or pink eyes.

Axanthic: This is a mutation in which the yellow coloration is missing. These animals will be black and white, or black, brown, and white.

Snow: This is a combination of both the amelanistic and axanthic mutations, which results in an all white animal with red eyes.

Leucistic: This is a mutation that produces an all-white animal with blue eyes, or with black eyes.

Hypomelanistic: This mutation is sometimes referred to as "Ghost". Hypomelanistic animals have reduced black coloration, so they appear faded or frosted, and their colors often seem brighter.

Hypermelanistic: This mutation produces animals that have a lot more black coloration than normal. Some hypermelanistic animals are pure black.

Striped: This mutation causes an animal's normally blotched pattern to be replaced by a stripe, usually down the back.

Piebald: This mutation causes random patches on the animal to be pure white, while the pattern and color of the other areas is disrupted. Paint horses are piebald. Sometimes shortened simply to 'pied'.

Patternless: Fairly self-explanatory.

Jungle: The normal pattern is disrupted, replaced by one that is busy, and random.

There are a GREAT many other mutations as well. Some of the species that have been bred most heavily for color mutations include ball pythons, boa constrictors, corn snakes, leopard geckos, bearded dragons, king snakes, milk snakes, and crested geckos.

There are many organizations presently speaking out against the exportation of wildlife for the pet trade from the African continent, India, and other, similar locations. The claim is that by refusing to buy wild-caught animals from these countries, we can help stem the tide, and more animals will remain in the wild.

If only it were that simple!

No one wants to see the unrestricted trade in wildlife brought under control more than the reptile pet industry itself. We own reptiles because we love reptiles. We do not want to see them disappear from the wild. Unfortunately...we have no control over how these countries choose to manage their wildlife, or even if they CAN manage their wildlife. Captive bred animals fair much better as pets than wild-caught animals, and scarcity means higher prices. Massive quantities of wild-caught animals coming into the country aren't a benefit to anyone.

The people in many of these locations are very, very poor. The areas are overpopulated. In order to feed their families, these people must try to eke out a living from the land. There are a limited number of ways they can do this. They can hunt wildlife for the pet trade, they can hunt wildlife for the bush meat trade, they can cut trees for charcoal, or they can engage in slash and burn agriculture. Tourism provides dollars as well, but not enough for enough people to support these areas entirely. In areas of civil unrest, tourism is virtually nonexistent.

If the trees are cut, either for charcoal or to support agriculture activities such as growing crops, raising cattle, or raising goats, then the habitat wildlife requires is gone, and most of the animals that lived in that area are gone with the trees. Only the larger animals can hope to flee to other areas...where they will be overcrowded.

Perhaps, then it is better for wildlife to be shipped to the United States and Europe, Japan and China, to be kept as pets. In many first-world countries, knowledge of reptile care has advanced to a point where experienced herpetoculturists can establish a large percentage of the wild-caught animals that make it to them alive. These animals can then be bred in captivity.

These captive-bred animals represent a reservoir population. While most zoos and wildlife establishments disdain accepting animals bred by private citizens, if animals in private hands are all that is left, they will accept them for conservation programs.

The rate of habitat destruction in areas of Africa and Asia is so profound that our commonly bred pets may become endangered species--or become extinct in the wild, and in a fairly short period of time. The pet trade itself may be more of a lifeline for species than a major factor in their loss. Wildlife cannot survive without habitat. Any practice that helps local people make a living WITHOUT destroying habitat is a good thing at this point. Even if they remove every last member of a species from the forest, if the forest is still standing, it has to be considered a victory! The species can be repatriated at a later date. At least it still exists!

In the past, there were few survivors when animals were imported to be pets. These days, the survival rates are much higher.

If only we could really save wildlife by refusing to buy wild-caught animals...
The truth is, we cannot. If the US refuses to buy them, China will buy them instead.

If you truly want to work toward a solution, donate funds to programs that are designed to provide education, clean water, medical care, and cleaner, more efficient cook stoves to poor people in places like Africa and Madagascar, India, and Borneo. Seek out reputable groups who are working to help these people make a living without destroying the rainforests. This is the ONLY way we will ever stem the tide of habitat and species loss. You cannot solve this problem by refusing to open your wallet--you can only solve it by opening your wallet and putting your money in the right place.