Needlework samplers have a rich history and today take on an interesting twist
The rich history of needlework samplers is hinted at in the commercially produced patterns of today. Samplers have often been dismissed as nostalgic decorative items of no importance but in the past samplers have been a method of recording information. Today they can be seen as format to explore stitches and design elements, mixed media techniques and some freeform contemporary samplers even include elements of journalling.
Needlework samplers, always act as a record of stitches, and skill but they can also record patterns and motifs, depict family trees, commemorate life events, such as weddings or births. Alphabet samplers and growth charts are popular today, but their function has changed significantly.
Links and resources on this page will take you on a journey into both the history of needlework samplers and how to stitch your own sampler.
Needlework samplers, always act as a record of stitches, and skill but they can also record patterns and motifs, depict family trees, commemorate life events, such as weddings or births. Alphabet samplers and growth charts are popular today, but their function has changed significantly.
Links and resources on this page will take you on a journey into both the history of needlework samplers and how to stitch your own sampler.
History of Samplers
- Needlework samplers on Wikipedia
- A brief overarching article on the history of samplers
- History of samplers: 14th & 15th century
- An authoritative article from the Victoria and Albert Museum website which introduces a series which tells the history of sampler making drawing on some of the samplers in the collection of over 700 examples. Investigate the images as larger version enable you to see these textiles
- History of samplers: 16th century
- An authoritative article from the Victoria and Albert Museum which tells the history of sampler making. Investigate the images as larger version enable you to see these textiles
- History of samplers: 17th century
- An authoritative article on 17th century Samplers at the Victoria and Albert Museum. If you are interested in Band samplers and spot samplers dont forget to click and investigate the images as they expand so you can see some of these samplers in their full glory.
- History of samplers: 18th century
- An authoritative article on 18th century Samplers on the Victoria and Albert Museum website. Investigate the images as they expand so you can see them in their full glory. The article includes band samplers, educational samplers, map samplers and darning samplers.
- History of samplers: 19th century
- An authoritative article on 19th century Samplers at the Victoria and Albert Museum.Click the images as they expand to a larger size
- Samplers, stitches & techniques
- An article from the Victorian and Albert museum website.
- Elizabeth Parker's sampler at the V & A
- The life story stitched on this sampler has to be one of the saddest I have ever read. In service as a nursery maid Elizabeth Parker endured a harsh and horrible life recorded humbly in simple stitches.
I wished for a full transcript on the site but click to expand the photograph and read the text. - Simply Samplers
- A touring exhibition of Scottish samplers. Online are 23 samplers, with brief articles and a historical overview.
- History of samplers
- Brief History of Embroidery Samplers by Sharon B
- Southern Decorative Needlework
- An article by Heather Palmer about embroidery and needle work and the role it played in the lives of Nineteenth-century women in the southern states of Americ
- Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa collection
- Samplers in the collection of the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa
- Samplers at the Powerhouse Museum
- Samplers that are in the Powerhouse Museum collection
- Textiles from the Index of American Design
- Image of sampler and brief article provided by the National Gallery of Art USA
- Tennessee Sampler Survey
- Tennessee Sampler Survey aims to document and preserve Tennessee's needlework heritage, including documenting Tennessee samplers made prior to 1900.
- In Stitches: Unraveling Their Stories
- Article by Mary Brooks at the Samplings website describing an exhibit In Stitches: Unraveling Their Stories
- Decorative Arts Sampler Survey data base
- A database of samplers that you can search by maker, origin, year,etc. possibly the most interesting way to browse the database it search under type of sampler such as band, family register, mourning, etc. Or you can look for a particular motif such as Adam & Eve, house etc
- Victoriana Library Sampler Collection, English (C.1879-82)
- Images of samplers embroidered by Elizabeth E. Jacobs worked as a school girl. Article and images from a collection of eight 19th C. samplers
- Needlework Samplers
- The new home of Simply Samplers by created by Rosemary Powell who has been on the web since April 1996. This site houses information on the history and design of samplers, the meaning of sampler symbols and pointers to other resources.
- Samplers International: A World of Needlework
- Exhibition of 70 samplers at the Benton County Historical Society in collaboration with the Sampler Consortium. The site includes both historic and contemporary samplers. Photos can be enlarged if you click on them.
- Berlin wool work sampler
- An illustrated article describing a British Berlin wool work band sampler worked between 1850s-1870s.
Also discussed are the possible design sources "Some patterns seen here are sourced from traditional needlework repertoires, such as the imbricated scales and numerous flamepoint variations; others reflect prevailing decorative trends. Blocks of Chinese-inspired fretwork share space at top with a floral branch; directly below is a square of tartan."
Books about samplers
Start your own Sampler
Stitching a sampler need not be boring, difficult, or bound by rules.
Sampler making need not be difficult or boring!In the early 21st century the reasons samplers are created and the role samplers can play in a stitcher life are different. They can be created to learn embroidery, or as a home decoration, or a record of skill development, or to see how a particular thread with look like when stitched up. Samplers can record not only stitches but a life or a family. How many family trees have you see worked as a sampler? Samplers can become a record of a birth, marriage, or be a memorial to someone dear. They can become a journal and record a life. If you are interested in history there is a huge revival in working reproduction samplers. Women no longer have to justify learning something new by constantly working projects and filling the house with knick knacks. It is OK to learn a skill for the sake of taking pleasure in the hand work and mastering it. Working a sampler improves your skill level.
There are hundreds of hand embroidery stitches. Only a few of these can be duplicated by a machine. In an age where technology and machinery dominates the fact that hand embroidery is unique and can not be duplicated means it is a particular form of human activity that is highly personal.
Once some key concepts are learned, the variation of what can be done with needle and thread is broad, You are only limited by your imagination.
Contemporary or Traditional?
The first thing you need to decide is if your personality leans towards following a traditional path or are you wanting to branch out and experiment with contemporary styles and techniques.Some people love the look and feel of traditional sampler. They love the regular patterning, the controlled colours, the charm on one hand and classic style on the other. These folks delight in working row upon row of stitches watching the designs emerge from their hands.
If you are one of these people and a new hand to stitching start with a simple cross stitch or black work sampler. Once you have mastered the basics of cross stitch and back stitch explore some of the other stitches found in samplers such as Stem Stitch, Algerian Eye, Bosnia Stitch, Double Cross Stitch, and Running Stitch. After that graduate the many interesting varieties of stitches to be discovered in reproduction samplers.
However you may be the opposite personality with memories of needlework teachers who made you sit at your sewing for long boring afternoons only to have your work criticized. You may be one of those folks that feel restless and ill at ease when asked to repeat row after row of stitches. If you are one of those people who liked to colour outside the line you may enjoy a more contemporary free form approach that allows for spontaneity and exploration for the fun of seeing what will happen. You may enjoy improvisational samplering on cloth that is hand dyed or unconventional.
Requirements and tools needed to stitch your Sampler
You will need
Fabric
Embroidery Thread
Scissors
Embroidery Needles
Hoop
Graph paper
Notebook
Fabric
Embroidery Thread
Scissors
Embroidery Needles
Hoop
Graph paper
Notebook
Embroidery Needles
For cross stitch and work on evenweave fabrics use a blunt-ended needle to avoid splitting fabric such as Aida. Tapestry needles are numbered from 18 to 28 in size and the best value for money is to purchase a mixed pack. This will allow you to use many different types of threads.
When you choose a needle to stitch with. The needle should be small enough so that when it passes through the material is does not distort the fabric and make a bigger hole. Also it must not be so thin that is just slips and falls through the weave of the fabric.
If you are using a firm weave fabric you will need to use a crewel needle.
When you choose a needle to stitch with. The needle should be small enough so that when it passes through the material is does not distort the fabric and make a bigger hole. Also it must not be so thin that is just slips and falls through the weave of the fabric.
If you are using a firm weave fabric you will need to use a crewel needle.
- Needles Used in Needlework
- A description of the type of needles used in various types of hand embroidery.
- Needles
- This is a very good guide from Country Bumpkin magazine which covers various needles and what they are used for.
- Needles
- The Hand Needle Guide illustrates different needles used in Hand embroidery.
Embroidery Thread
Most cross stitch samplers call for embroidery floss that can be split.
For those who are starting surface stitching I suggest cotton peril #5 , #8 and #12 which is a thread that is not split.
For more advanced stitchers there is a huge range of interesting threads in all sorts of fibers that can be used. In fact it is well worth experimenting with thread.
For those who are starting surface stitching I suggest cotton peril #5 , #8 and #12 which is a thread that is not split.
For more advanced stitchers there is a huge range of interesting threads in all sorts of fibers that can be used. In fact it is well worth experimenting with thread.
- Threads
- An article on the types of thread available for hand embroidery
- Thread Comparison: Cotton Embroidery Threads - Floche, Perle, & Stranded
- Mary Corbet of Needle N' Thread explains the difference between these threads
- Using Embroidery floss - the basics
- A comprehensive article that includes answers to questions such as How many strands of embroidery floss to use, a video demonstrates how to separate one strand of floss, and how to secure your thread when starting to stitch.
Embroidery Hoop:
I always encourage people to use a hoop as a hoop will help you keep the tension of your stitches even
- Binding an Embroidery Hoop
- Mary Corbet of Needle N' Thread gives a clear tutorial on how to bind a embroidery hoop
- Using an Embroidery Hoop or Frame
- A basic article on why and how to use a hoop or frame
Fabric and fabric preparation:
For any of the counted stitch styles use an even weave fabric.
If you are interested in exploring surface stitches that are not counted you can use any cotton dress fabric.
Iron the fabric so there are no creases.
Stop the edges of the fabric from fraying by machine sewing a line of zig-zag stitch along the edge or turn and tack a hem around the edge.
If you are interested in exploring surface stitches that are not counted you can use any cotton dress fabric.
Iron the fabric so there are no creases.
Stop the edges of the fabric from fraying by machine sewing a line of zig-zag stitch along the edge or turn and tack a hem around the edge.
- Fabrics used in cross stitch
- Although this article speaks of cross stitch most of what it says applies to all evenweave embroidery techniques.
- Fabric Types
- Fabric Types that are suitable for hand embroidery
- Choosing a Cross Stitch or Needlework Fabric
- An extensive article on choosing needlework fabric
- What Is Fabric Count?
- Answers the question in simple direct manner.
Graph Paper:
- Graph Paper from StitchPoint
- From this site you can download graph paper as a PDF file and print it out using. There are many squared sizes available.
Starting a Cross Stitch Sampler
Many people start with a cross stitch sampler. Below there is links to resources that guide you through this process. Tips on starting with a cross stitch sampler
- Starting Cross Stitch: Cross Stitch Helpful Hints
- A series of helpful hints on how to start a cross stitch project
- Embroider a cross stitch sampler
- Directions on how to start a simple cross stitch sampler
Starting a Black Work sampler
Blackwork was also called "Spanish work". Blackwork is characterized as using Holbein (also known as double-running) stitch (if reversible) and/or backstitch worked in a single colour. If a contemporary interpretation is applied and the embroiderer uses a hand dyed thread that shifts colours back stitch is used. Work a blackwork sampler
- A blackwork embroidery primer
- Rissa Peace Root offers a brief historical overview, a run down on basic stitches used, basic advice on fabric, thread, equipment and design sources.
- 16th Century Samplers: Blackwork
- Carol Hanson has drafted out some 16th century motifs from famous samplers such as the Jane Bostocke sampler for stitchers to be able to work
- Blackwork Embroidery Archives
- If you are designing your own black work sampler the Blackwork Embroidery Archives is a wonderful design source
- Fill-in Patterns from Sixteenth Century Blackwork Embroideries
- These fill patterns are great to cover areas or backgrounds.
Books about Blackwork embroidery
Other sampler patterns and designs
Genuine traditional samplers are far from restricted to cross stitch and blackwork and many people enjoy walking in the footsteps of embroiderers of the past. Design sources on the web are plentiful for Blackwork, mostly due to the enthusiasm of members of the Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA)
Samplers are not restricted to one style of embroidery. Canvaswork has long tradition of sampler making. Also below you will find links to whitework samplers and contemporary samplers such as a New England Button sampler.
Samplers are not restricted to one style of embroidery. Canvaswork has long tradition of sampler making. Also below you will find links to whitework samplers and contemporary samplers such as a New England Button sampler.
- Free download of Mary Wigham sampler
- This is a beautiful, colourful medallion sampler worked in silks. The Mary Wigham sampler is in the collection of the Ackworth School Museum. This chart is available free from Needleprint website a donation to the Ackworth School Museum is requested but not required) On the Needleprint site there is also a free world wide stitch along that you can join.
- Berlin Work by Pat Berman
- Canvaswork has long tradition of sampler making.
- A pulled thread sampler
- This pulled thread sampler is provided by Lorelei Terry Halley of lynxlace
- White work sampler
- Directions on how to make a traditional white work sampler using pulled work and a little drawn thread work. Links at the bottom of the page lead to the next 7 bands
- New England Button sampler
- This free chart by Jane Iles is inspired by New England folk designs and incorporates buttons, charms and beads.
- Creative Goldwork Samples
- Tracy A. Franklin demonstrates creative ways of using metal threads in this contemporary sampler
- CyberSampler 1
- CyberSampler 1 is a canvas work sampler with a interesting history as it was named because the 112 letters, 20 numbers, 30 patterns, and 10 borders are actually based on the pixel alphabets and fill patterns used in the original MacPaint program.
- CyberSampler 2
- This sampler is also based on the original Macintosh MacPaint patterns.
Design Transfer Methods
With counted techniques such as cross stitch, blackwork, canvaswork, drawn and pulled thread work stitches are counted as they are stitched, creating a design as you work.
With surface embroidery however you need to transfer the pattern to the fabric.
With surface embroidery however you need to transfer the pattern to the fabric.
- How to Transfer Embroidery Patterns to Fabric
- How to transfer embroidery patterns to fabric demonstrates 2 methods of transferring embroidery patterns to a piece of cloth
Contemporary Sampler making
Some instructors will say or infer that there is one, and only one way to do embroidery. Don't let a narrow minded, bad teacher put you off sampler making! Contemporary embroidery is a highly creative activity and like other areas of visual arts practice it is more than OK to break the rules.Why stitch a contemporary sampler?
If you want to develop your stitching skills you can start with a sampler of simple surface stitches and take it from there.
If you are an intermediate stitcher you can use a sampler to develop a repertoire of embroidery stitches that becomes a resource for you may draw on in future projects. In this type of sampler the development of stitching skill, technique experimentation and freeform exploration is the goal.
If you are interested in design you can experiment with design concepts and create freehand works of embroidery.
In contemporary embroidery there is and interest as developing stitches as you would a graphic mark which means there is no such thing as working with the wrong thread, the wrong fabric, and the wrong needle. In fact often doing the 'wrong' thing and using simple stitches you can 'draw' with a needle and thread.
If you are interested in colour you can use the sampler to record small experiments before embarking on a larger project.
Contemporary Samplers and their format
As their Dutch name 'Merklappen' suggests, samplers are a form of stitched notes. They can record just stitches or they can record a story of a life or an event. Samplers are not limited to technique only. Often they have been stitched to mark major life events such as a birth, a death or a marriage. There are commercial patterns for family trees and growth charts.You can design your own sampler to record any event in your life and there is a small but growing trend of people who also journal as they create their sampler.
Samplers do not have to be square pieces of fabric that end up framed on a wall. They can be in any shape or size. A sampler can be in any format. They can be fabric postcards, fabric books or worked on bands of fabric that kept rolled up in your sewing box as original bands samplers were.
Autobiographical sampler on video
The Girl on the Wall, is an interesting piece of autobiographical embroidery. This sampler is the life story of Jean Baggot told via interlocking 'circles of life' which act a framework to illustrate each narrative. This video interview explains how it came about and why the piece was made.
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More about The Girl on the Wall
This second video that speaks a little more about the sampler.
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Journal and autobiographical samplers
This is a long band sampler that is not only a record of stitches and techniques but also a contemporary freeform journal sampler. The sampler is 15 cm (6 inches) wide and consists of different strips of fabric which are are stitched together to form one long band sampler. The sampler is currently 74 ft 8 inches or 896 inches (2275.84 centimetres) or 24.8 yards (22.75 metres) long and still growing. Contemporary Journal Samplers
Journal samplers worked in freeform manner improvising and catching the moment in stitch.
- PinTangle
- Pintangle regularly features sections of the long band sampler pictured above. Sections are photographed in detail and described.
- Annies Crazy World
- Annie Whitsed has been stitching a recording a journal sampler on her blog, Annies Crazy World. Here is an overview of her sampler. (Go to the Sampler category to read about all the parts of the sampler)
The longest embroidery in the world
- The longest embroidery in the world is a band sampler.
- With over 7,000 embroiderers from around the globe, the Embroiderers' Guild set a new Guinness World Record for stitching the "longest embroidery" at 605.55 metres (1,986.77 feet)
Process for designing your own Sampler
1 Read a bit about samplers and their history and browse sampler designs online and in books and museums.2 Decide on what format you want to use and if it will be in a traditional or contemporary style
3 In a notebook gather together ideas. Collect embroidery patterns for motifs, quotes you find inspiring and alphabet designs you like.
4 Select fabrics and thread colors
5 Combine your research and apply it. If you are working an evenweave design draw a chart on graph paper of your design and select stitches.
Or
Simply stitch in a freeform and improvisational manner. This type of "stitch as you go" sampler making is more than fine in the 21st century!
6 If it appeals to you stitch a quote or story on your sampler and don't forget to include your name and date.
Books on Creative Stitchery
Online Design Tools
There are numerous design tools online
- ColourLovers
- ColourLovers is an online colour tool which enables you to develop and share great colour schemes for your sampler or you can browse the colour schemes on the site for inspiration
- Adobe Kuler
- Adobe Kuler is an online colour tool. Using Kuler you can pick colours from a photograph  and come up with some great colour schemes for your sampler or you can browse the colour schemes on the site for inspiration
- Color Scheme Designer 3
- Color Scheme Designer 3 is free easily used, web based colour schemer. From the section icons on the left of the screen you have option to explore mono, complimentary, triad, tetrad, analogic and accented analogic colour schemes. If your colour scheme is just too bright to bear select "adjust scheme" from the tabs along the bottom left of the screen.
- MyPhotoStitch
- MyPhotoStitch is a free online service which will take one of your photos and chart it ready for cross stitch which makes it an ideal design tool to use if you want to personalize a sampler with a family photograph.
- BgPatterns
- BgPatterns is a online tool that is aimed at web designers who want to create background patterns easily and quickly but I am sure sampler embroiderers will see many delightful patterns that can be translated into stitches and designs. I can also see this tool provoking design ideas.
- Cross Stitch Writing Tool
- This tool allows you to make a charted design out of text. You simply click in the font you wan then select the letters you want to use by clicking the pink letter keys. Clear directions are on the site.
- Wordle
- Wordle is one of those web toys that you can play with for hours as it generates word clouds from text you provide. It would be a very interesting exercise to use a word cloud of text on a contemporary sampler.
Starting your own Sampler simple stitches and advice
- How to Make an Embroidery Sampler
- Advice on starting a sampler
- Don't Underestimate the Stitch
- Mary Corbet of Needle N' Thread points out that even the simplest of stitches can be interesting. Using running stitch as an example she demonstrates just how versatile this stitch can be.
- Pattern Making with Cross Stitch
- Use your sampler to explore new ways of pushing this timeless stitch to create
richly textured contemporary embroideries. Jean Draper encourages people to start simply, then gradually explore more complex possibilities. - Laying it on Line
- Jan Beaney demonstrates Couching and its many variations. Exploring some of these ideas can be a sampler in itself!
- Best Laid Plans
- Explore the use of Burden stitch with Maggie Phillips
- Stitch of the Month
- The American Needlepoint Guild hosts a stitch of the month that can easily be incorporated into a sampler.
- Stitch of the Month
- CHL Design has published a stitch of the month with each stitch illustrated and stitched using contemporary techniques.
Stitch Dictionaries and Glossaries
There are sites that house collections of stitches that illustrate how to work them
- Video instruction on how to do surface stitches
- Mary Corbet of Needle N' Thread has created a series of well produced clear videos that demonstrate numerous surface stitches.
- 12 Basic Surface Stitches for Beginners
- This PDF file presents the basic stitches used in surface embroidery
- Sharon b's Stitch Dictionary
- A dictionary of needlework and embroidery stitches illustrated with step by step photographs. To assist those who are new to the craft of hand embroidery each stitch is categorized as to the degree of difficulty.
- Rissa's Pieces Stitch Dictionary
- This collection of stitches also includes beaded stitches
- Stitch Dictionary
- A Dictionary of stitches used in evenweave techniques such as Hardanger and Pulled thread embroidery from Over the Moon Designs
Embroidery stitch dictionaries
Browse these sites for Inspiration and Ideas
- The Take a Stitch Tuesday group on Flickr
- Take a Stitch Tuesday is a group of people who experiment with a stitch each week. Browse the group for ideas and inspiration as to what is possible with various hand embroidery stitches
- Constance Howard Resource and Research Centre
- Browse the Constance Howard Resource and Research Centre collection particularly
the sampler section
Find needlework bargains on EBay
Pin Tangle
Track my needlework efforts and band sampler
Needlework on Flickr
Leave a comment
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Kimbesa Apr 1, 2012 @ 1:48 am | delete
- Awesome sampler on samplers! Makes me itchy to get out my cross stitch again...thanks!
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iHanna
Jan 10, 2012 @ 2:56 pm | delete
- Thanks for a very inspirational lens with lots of useful information about samplers and their history. I never thought I'd want to make one, but now my fingers are itching to get started... :-) Will refer back to this for further inspiration then.
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sharon_b
A lifelong fascination for textiles and fiber arts both contemporary and historical has led me to explore forms of embellishment. My Stitch Dictionary... more »
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