Setting Gems

Jewellery Making

This lens is about making jewellery, specifically how to set gems and cabochons yourself to make unique jewellery. It also focuses on where to find gems of various types and settings that can be used by beginners and experts alike.

Lens Image: Based on Blue diamond jewelry by Kathy Reed

Tools

Pliers and Tweezers

The methods of gem setting I have highlighted on this lens can be achieved with a pair of tweezers and long-nosed pliers. No additional tools are necessary to get started.

If you intend to take up gemsetting as a hobby, more complicated sets and specially designed versions of the basic tools are useful, especially when working with small or uniquely shaped stones.

Beadalon 7-Piece Tool Kit Zip Pouch, Econo

Amazon Price: $10.94 (as of 06/03/2012)Buy Now
List Price: $14.99

All you need to get started.

Release Date: 12/31/1969

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Types of Stones

Faceted stones

Cut Gemstones.

Close-Up of a Ruby Spinel Gem
Close-Up of a Ruby Spinel Gem
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These are precious or semi-precious stones cut to show off their brilliance and colour. They are what most people think off when jewellery is mentioned, and are what this lens focuses on setting. When you are learning I would suggest sticking to semiprecious, simulated or lab-created stones. These look good but are a lot cheaper to work with if you are worried about making mistakes!
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Cabochons

Making Cabochon Jewellery

Polished Opal Gemstone
Polished Opal Gemstone
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Cabochons are stones with a flat back and rounded upper surface. Many cabochon settings are flat, designed for the stone to be glued into permanently. I prefer to be able to reuse stones, so this isn't an approach I take. They tend to be larger than faceted stones and some are semi-precious or common stones, polished up to display interesting swirls or colours. While most cabochons are round or oval, a few rarer ones come in shapes like rectangles.

The settings and methods described on this lens will work with cabochons as well as faceted stones.
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Finding Loose Stones

Cut and Cabochon

Rather than out all the details on this lens, I have done several dedicated lenses on finding stones suitable (and cheap enough) for beginners to work with. Choose the gem you are interested in, and have a look!
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How to Set Gems

Snaptite settings

Demonstrated with iolite

This is probably the easiest way to make jewellery. Snaptite settings are designed to simply click the stone into place with pressure. Put the stone face down, put the setting over it and push. Just be careful the stone doesn't fire off across the room - cabochons in particular are prone to it.

My demonstration stone for this is iolite, also called the water sapphire.
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Backset settings

Hidden prongs and topaz

Backset settings have prongs the fold across the back of the stone, allowing mistakes to be hidden when the piece is worn. Easy to use, these are probably my favourite setting to work with. From the front they look like a bevel setting, with a ring of metal aroudn the edges of the stone.

I'm using topaz for the demonstration stone with this lens. It isn't just affordable, it comes in a range of colours and you can achieve almost any look with the right stone.
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Prong settings

Demonstrated with Garnets

A prong setting, where prongs fit over the edges of the gem to hold them in place, is one of the most common types of setting. It can be tricky to use for beginners, especially if you use a large stone, but with a silver plated setting and lab created stones mistakes can be afforded.
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Wrap-tite wire settings

Round the edge of the stone

Wrap-tite or channel wire settings are a thick wire setting that has a groove round the inside that fits around the edge of the stone. Most commonly used for cabochons, they can also take faceted stones.
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Other ways to set gems

Outside the scope of this lens

There are other ways, not covered by this lens.

Bevel settings These lap over the edge of the gem to hold it in place. For a beginner it can be difficult to keep the stone level and the edging even. Also as you are working on a surface that will be visible on the finished product, you need to be careful not to leave marks.

Wire Wrapped Irregular or naturally shaped gemstones can be wrapped in wire to make jewellery. This isn't a method I use, so I will leave it to the experts.

Beading Beading is an artform and discipline in its own right, rather than gemsetting, so it isn't covered here.

If you would like to learn more about setting gems, a lot has been written about it, but there should be enough on the linked tutorial lenses below to get your started.
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Precious Stones

Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds, Diamonds

While these would normally not be recommended for a novice, due to cost, cheaper stones are available. Good effects can be achieved affordably by using simulated or lab-created stones, or simply small and less clear natural gemstones.

These lenses cover where to find precious gems once you are ready to try them.
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Pre-made jewellery

Buy semi-precious stone jewellery ready-made

If you would prefer just to shop, here are a few lenses with pre-made semi-precious stone jewellery from Amazon and other locations.
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Have your say

Leave your views

This lens is designed as an index to my jewellery-making lenses. If you'd like to see more, or have any settings that I haven't covered and you are interested in, please let me know.

This is the place to have your say!

  • Image_Girl Jan 5, 2012 @ 2:24 pm | delete
    As the daughter of a gemstone factor .. i really appreciate this!
  • wcjohnston Nov 6, 2011 @ 7:59 pm | delete
    Great Lens,I love gems, I have always wanted to design a set with 'hot pink saphires' for my wife.

    Wedding Photographer Bristol
  • karmicchristian Oct 28, 2011 @ 11:47 am | delete
    Very informative and thanks for sharing this here! :)

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Aviation, IT, History, Gaming, I'm interested in just about anything! I made the Squidoo Top 100 Club in June 2009. I have three fiction books in print... more »

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