Sewing Machine

Like any other hobby, a successful sewing project starts with the right tools and a little knowledge of the craft. Yes, you can easily find the basic sewing tools in your home: your old pair of scissors down in your garage; pins from your drawers, or rulers that your kids use in school. However, you will have a more convenient sewing experience if you use the right tools intended for the job.

Before you start any sewing activities, make sure you have a checklist to round up all your sewing tools. A basic sewing kit includes a:
Tape measure
Dressmakers shears
Trimming scissor
Fabric markers both for dark and light markers
Invisible transparent tape
Pincushion and glass-head pins
Hand needles
Needles for sewing machine
Seam ripper

TAPE MEASURE

You use a tape measure to take your own measurements, to check the right measurements on patterns, and some other tasks that need to be measured. There are different types of tape measures but the most practical and easy way is the coated fabric tape measure. To keep the tape measure handy, try draping it around your neck.

Dressmakers SHEARS

Have the eight-inch bent shears. Dressmaker shears are the most efficient tools for cutting fabric. These shears have one bent-angle and one straight blade, a rounded thumbhole, and for precise and comfortable cutting, an oblong finger hole. The bent angle blades provide a spot where your index finger can rest for long-cutting jobs. And to ensure more accurate cuts, the bend on the shears blade stops you from lifting your fabric off the table.

THE 5-INCH TRIMMING SCISSORS

These scissors are intended for trimming smaller areas. The blades of these types of scissors are straight, and they have round holes for the thumb and the finger.

When you shop for shears and scissors, see to it that you properly test them first. Make sure that they cut all the way to the blade tips.

FABRIC MARKERS

Remember that in sewing, it is important to match up the right pieces of the project precisely, otherwise the fit won't be right. So that you match the pieces of the fabric patterns correctly, patterns now include match points called the dots and the notches, printed on the pattern tissues. The fabric markers especially designed for sewing provide ease in transferring the notches from the pattern to the fabric itself.

Some types of fabric markers include:

Disappearing dressmakers chalks: These are great for dark fabrics. The chalk markings disappear after five days or after the fabric is washed and ironed.

Wash-out pencils: These are also suitable for dark fabrics and can be erased with a drop of cold water. It looks similar to a regular pencil and the lead is white, pink or light blue.

Vanishing Markers: Ideal for marking fabrics that are light colored and disappears in twelve to twenty-four hours.

Water-Erasable Markers: These are felt-tipped markers used to mark light to medium colored fabrics.

INVISIBLE TRANSPARENT TAPES

These tapes are useful but not important marking tapes. These tapes can be easily seen when placed on fabric because of the cloudy appearance. Removable tapes are ideal in some types of fabrics like corduroy, velvet or velour since the tape doesn't pull off the nap from these types of fabrics.

PIN CUSION AND GLASS HEAD PINS

These are essential things you need for your sewing projects. You need them to secure the pattern to the fabric. You can also pin fabrics together before you sew them. Glass-head pins are recommended because they fit securely in your fingers especially when you pin multiple layers of fabrics. And if you accidentally iron the glass heads, they don' melt like the plastic ones.

It is also important that you have a safe place where you can keep your pins. Glass-head pins are sold in convenient plastic boxes that serve as the pin holders. However, experts say wearing a wrist pincushion is very practical so that the pins stay wherever the sewer goes. Magnetic pincushions are also handy. Aside from pins, other metal objects like the seam ripper or small scissors can stick to the surface that is magnetized.

HAND NEEDLES

When buying hand needles, take the variety pack. This pack provides most of the needles important for hand-sewing projects. Although variety packs of needles vary from brand to brand, they generally have about ten needles per pack in varied lengths and thickness. Others even have varied sizes of eyes.

NEEDLES FOR SEWING MACHINE

The standard size of a sewing machine needle is size #11 based on American sizing, or #12/80 for European sizing. About eighty percent of the fabrics today are good for these needles. However, if you aren't sure about the size of the needle for a particular fabric, take time to read the Operating Manual of your sewing machine. There are some needles that provide varied types of points, designed to cater to different stitching techniques as well as different fabric types.

SEAM RIPPER

A seam ripper is a type of sewing tool that has a point designed to lifts stitched off the fabric.
It is important that you have the right tools for your sewing activities. Start your sewing activities by obtaining the proper dressmaking tools.

Selecting the right fabric is very confusing because of the overwhelming and tremendous selections available. As you go over the different types of fabrics, the first thing that catches your attention is the splashy colors. Then you start to gain interest in their textures and weaves. The options are mind boggling which is why being informed about different fabrics is critical to having a sewing project that is successful.

TYPES OF FABRIC ACCORDING TO ITS FIBER CONTENT

The fiber content of fabric generally determines how comfortable the fabric is once worn and how you can properly take care of the garment. Below is a list of the types of fabric with its corresponding fiber content.

Natural Fiber Fabrics- These include cotton, linen, ramie, silk and wool

Man-Made Fiber Fabrics- Examples are acetate and triacetate, acrylic, nylon, olefin, polyesters, rayon, and spandex.

Leathers and Suede's

Synthetic Suede's

Vinyl's

Furs

Natural Fiber Fabrics

These are made from materials found and grown in nature. The fibers used come from silkworm cocoons, animal coats, leaves, and stems. These types of fabrics are recyclable and are biodegradable. In recycling, fabrics are shredded again to fibers, and re-spun into a coarse yarn before finally weaving or knitting them. The most common recycled fabrics is wool. Additionally, cotton can also be recycled and then created into mattress fillings, wiping cloths, and carpet backings.

Cotton

This is popular for its appearance, versatility, performance, and comfort. Cotton is available in varied fabric weights, patterns, colors, prices, and weaves. Cottons basically come from seedpods of cotton plants. These plants are grown in places with warm climates with enough rainfall. Cotton fibers are carefully put to a boil to vary its length. The longer the length, the more expensive they are.

Hemp

This is produced out of the cannabis Sativa plant. The process of making hemp starts by separating the fibers of the Sativa plant and then weaving it to form yarns and fabrics. The finest hemp fabric is produced in Italy. Hemp appears linen like and wrinkles easily.

Linen

This type of fabric is made from stalks of the flax plant, the strongest among all the vegetable fibers. Linen is two to three times stronger than cotton. Its fibers can range from two to thirty-six inches long. In making linen, the fibers are first spun to form a yarn, which is woven to become a fabric. This fabric comes in a variety of weights.

The lightest is the handkerchief, and the heaviest is linen suiting. Because of its ability to absorb high amounts of moisture, linen is best for hot and humid climates. The more linen is washed, the more it becomes softer and smoother. The smooth surface of the linen is due to its natural wax content.

Ramie

This is a soft, hairy fiber with almost similar qualities as those of linen. Ramie is frequently blended with some other types of fabrics either man-made or natural. Ramie also has a high luster and comes in a natural white color. Since it is quick absorbent, it is very quick to dry.

Silk

Known as the queen of all Textiles:, silk is a sensuous and luxurious cloth that is made out of cocoons of the silkworm. There are generally two types of silkworms, namely: commercial or cultivated, and the wild.

Wool

This is a natural anima fiber that is made from animal coats. The fibers of wool can easily curl which makes it spongy because of the spaces it creates when it curls. Wool is warm to wear during the winter, and lightweight can be cool in the summer. It absorbs moisture and is water repellent, flame resistant, and it resists wrinkling.

Batik

This is a man-made fiber that is either 100% rayon or 100% cotton. Batik is created thru a dyeing process that is based from a wax applied to the fabric.

Batiste and Voile

Batiste is a man-made fabric known for its soft and semi-sheer characteristics. It can be polyester, cotton, or cotton blend. This type of fabric is very lightweight, durable, washable, and comfortable. This is used as under linings, or for heirloom sewing, but is also ideal for interfacings, lingerie, and blouses. Additionally, voile is similar with batiste, only it is crisper and comes in a great variety of colors.

Choosing the right fabric is overwhelming because of the many options you can consider. Take time to identify which fabric will work well before you finally decide to purchase.

In dressmaking and sewing, zippers are very important. Zippers are types of fasteners or closures widely used in joining two edges of fabric. They are also used for clothing, bags, luggage, sporting goods, and textiles.

A zipper is composed of two different strips of fabric tape. Each strip is attached to a piece from the two parts to be joined. It carries tens or even hundreds of specially designed plastic or metal teeth. Operated by hand, the slider moves along the teeth of the slide. Inside the slider, there is a Y-shaped channel that separates or joins the opposing rows of teeth.

Types of Zippers

There are different types of zippers which are categorized according to their uses. Below are some examples.

Coil Zippers

These are the most common types of zippers used worldwide. The slider of the zipper runs on two different coils on both sides. The teeth of these types of zippers are the coils. Additionally, there are two basic types of coils that are used. The first one has coils in a spiral form, normally with its cord running inside the coils. The second one is the ladder form called the Ruhrmann type. This is used in specific parts of the world, particularly in South Asia. Coil zippers are generally made of polyester coils, which is why they are also called polyester zippers.

Invisible Zippers

The teeth of these types of zippers are placed behind the tape. The color of the tape matches with the color of the garments. The zipper is virtually invisible, except the slider. These types are common in dresses and skirts and are mostly polyester.

Metallic Zippers

These are the most classic types of zippers found in jeans today. Its teeth aren't coil but rather individual pieces of metal that have been molded into shape before set on regular intervals on the zipper tape. Metal zippers can be made from aluminum, brass, or nickel, depending on the type of metal used in making the teeth. All the metal zippers are made basically from flat wire.

There are also some specialized metal zippers that are made from heavy duty pre-formed wires, usually brass. However, only a few companies have the technology to manufacture such types. These types of metal zippers are mostly used in work-wear, high grade jeans wear, and others where high strength, durability, and the ability to withstand tough washing is required.

Plastic-molded Zippers

These types are the same with the metal zippers but its teeth are plastic. These zippers can be manufactured in varied colors of plastic and commonly use polyacetal or polyethylene resin.

Open-ended zippers

These zippers use a particular mechanism called a box and pin to securely lock in place the two sides of the zipper. These are mostly found in jackets.

Closed-ended zippers

These are the types of zippers where both its ends are close. These are commonly used in baggage.
What is a Hook and Eye Closure?

Another type of fastener is called the hook and eye closure. This is commonly used on undergarments like brassieres. The hook and eye closure is very easy to sew in because of its design which makes it easy to handle. This closure can be efficiently used in wide varieties of garments, and comes in a wide variety of sizes and colors.

The hook and eye is made from metal. It consists of two basic parts, the metal hoop and the eye loop where the metal hook slips through. Once it has slipped through, the eye loop then firmly holds the hook and eye closure together. What makes this closure tightly secured is the pulling of the two sides against each other. Brassieres, corsets, and snug dresses use the very small hook and eye closure while the larger ones are ideal for jackets, cloaks, or shirts.

Buttons

Buttons are also another type of closure. Used in fashion design and clothing, buttons are those small disc-shaped objects that are usually attached to a part of a clothing to secure an opening. Buttons are manufactured in a broad variety of materials that include natural materials like wood, vegetable ivory, shells, bones, or horns. There are also some made from synthetic materials such as plastic, metal, glass or celluloid.

In any dressmaking or sewing, keep closures handy. Remember that these are very important things in every sewing activity.