History of Sewing Patterns

Ebenezer Butterick started his company in 1863. The sewing patterns were for men and boys clothing and it is reported that the pattern pieces were folded by members of Mr. Butterick's family. In 1866 the company began to produce patterns for the ladies which were a tremendous hit.

According to the official website for Butterick, Mr. Butterick got the idea for making graded patterns from his wife Ellen. Ebenezer was a tailor by trade and when his wife voiced that she wished she could have a pattern that was made to fit their young son to make his clothes, he began to experiment with the idea.

He tried using cardboard templates but realized that they would not be easily folded and shipped across the country. Mr. Butterick finally came up with the idea of using tissue paper for the patterns.

Without a doubt, Ebenezer Butterick changed the world of home sewing with his invention.

James McCall began his pattern company in the United States in 1870. McCall was also a tailor who had immigrated from Scotland. He first worked as a U S agent for a British pattern company called The Royal Chart. As he began to make his own sewing patterns he published a four page magazine to promote his patterns. The magazine was called "The Queen" and was eventually changed to "The Queen of Fashion" shortly after his death in 1884.

In 1897 the magazine was renamed to one we are familiar with today, McCall's Magazine. The magazine still promoted the sewing patterns but also started to carry articles, short stories, and other items of interest to women.

McCall's were the first to print the information onto the pattern pieces in 1919. In 1932 they began printing full color illustrations on the pattern envelope.

It is also noted by several references that McCall's almost always prints the dates on their envelopes making it very easy to date their patterns.

In 1899, Vogue Magazine began to print a sewing pattern each week that could be purchased with a coupon for 50 cents. The patterns only came in one size so women had to re-adjust to fit their figures. In 1905 an entire department for patterns was created.

Conde Nast purchased Vogue in 1909 and increased the availability and range of style. By 1914 the Vogue Pattern Company had been formed and by 1916 the patterns were sold in the Department Stores of the day.

In 1961 Conde Nast signed a licensing agreement with Butterick to use the trademark Vogue Pattern Company.

The pattern to the right is part of the Very Easy Vogue Patterns line. No 8982 made a slightly fitted dress or pantsuit with a tunic top in size 10 in the 1970's.

In 1927, Joseph Shapiro and his son began the Simplicity Pattern Company. Their desire was to have an easy to follow and inexpensive sewing pattern for women to use. It is reported that they were the fastest growing company of the major Pattern companies. It is also reported that Simplicity believes itself to be the largest pattern company.

Simplicity stopped using the unprinted patterns in 1946. They have changed their logos and the look of their pattern envelopes many times over the decades.

Shown on the right is Simplicity Pattern No 1879 dated 1946. The pattern made a one piece dress with front buttons in size 14. This sewing pattern belongs to the year that the company changed the logo and began to print all of their patterns.

These wonderful old sewing patterns are fun to collect giving one a sense of the history of fashion and style.

Never be afraid to ask the seller as many questions as you can about the pattern. Most reputable sellers will be happy to answer your questions before you purchase.

Condition of the pattern and the envelope should be a part of your decision to purchase. Look at the condition of the envelope as it will be what you see the most of and will display. Major tears to the envelope are undesirable. These patterns were not made to last decades so sometime it is difficult to find one in mint condition. It is a matter of preference as to whether you want to collect patterns that are uncut. Some ladies only want the uncut versions which are much more difficult to find. If it is going in a collection, I personally feel that having the pieces cut doesn't matter to me. I actually like the ones with the pieces having been used. I like to imagine what the seamstress used for her fabrics and how many versions she made of the pattern.

Keeping your patterns in a sleeve that is the closest to the size of the pattern envelope will help to preserve your patterns. Keep them in a dress and away from sunlight so that they do not fade.

A collection can be made up of whatever you desire. You can collect only from a specific company, a specific era, or whatever gives you pleasure.

Copyright: March 10, 2009 by BevsPaper (Beverly Owens)