Snowblower Tune Up

Many models now include a clearing tool for clogs. Because the tool is stored within easy reach on the machine, it's a strong incentive for safe clearing. A chute-covering guard is another safety measure. While the guard keeps hands out, it makes clearing clogs more difficult.

Whichever snow blower you use this winter, a few basic steps will help keep you from becoming a statistic:

* Turn off the engine on a gas machine or unplug the motor on an electric model before clearing a clog at the auger or discharge chute. Then use the clearing tool, never hands or feet, to remove the clog.

* Protect yourself from carbon-monoxide poisoning by starting and running gasoline-powered snow blowers outside, rather than in your garage or shed.

* Don't wear loose pants, jackets, or scarves, which can get tangled in a snow blower's moving parts.

* Wear ear plugs or other hearing protection, especially with gas-powered models.

* Wait until a gas model's engine is cool before refueling.

* For electric models, use an outdoor extension cord and an outlet with ground-fault-circuit-interrupting protection. Then be sure to keep the cord safely away from the spinning auger while working.

Before the snow hits, take some time to lube up the crucial parts of your snowblower. This should be a part of every preseason tuneup.

Get a can of lithium grease and a bottle of lightweight machine oil and let's give those moving parts the attention they need.

Remove the wheels and spray some lithium grease on the axels. Wheel removal can be a real bear and it's better to prevent a wrestling match with your snowblower in the middle of winter.

Grab your bottle of lightweight machine oil and squirt some oil into the bushings. Then put some lubricating oil on the shifting mechanism. Make sure you don't accidentally drop any on the friction plate. Oil on a friction plate kind of defeats the purpose doesn't it?

Next spray some white lithium grease on the hex shaft. Again you want to make sure you don't get anything on the friction plate, so you might want to spray a little and then spread it around over all sides of the hex shaft with your finger.

This does two things. First, it gets a nice even coat of grease over the shaft. Secondly, it ensures no drips are going to fall on the friction plate.

Shift and add more grease in any places you couldn't get at before.

Finally, spray a little white lithium grease on the gear to ensure it functions smoothly. If your snowblower is chain driven, lubricate the chain with white lithium grease.

One of the tune up items that most people neglect when they're tuning up their snowblower is the nuts and bolts that hold the machine together.

Hours of intense vibration can easily loosen parts. If they get loose enough, They can fly off and break something or injure someone.

Don't take chances. Since you're tuning up your snowblower anyway, take a little extra time to put a wrench to those nuts and bolts and make sure they're tight.

Especially pay attention to the bolts holding the auger and the chute. Give each bolt a good tightening before you fire up your snowblower for a season of throwing snow.

1. Use Non-Stick Spray
Snow Blower non-stick spray coats your snow blower chute and auger just like cooking spray.
Simply spray your chute and auger and let it dry. Then the snow literally slides right through without sticking or clogging.

2. Go Faster

Believe it our not, your chute gets clogged because you're going too slow. Think of a merry-go-round. The faster it spins; the further you fly off. Same goes with your snow blower.
If you physically cannot pick up the pace, you should consider getting a more powerful snow blower.

If you have a 4 cycle engine, you not only have to put gas in it, but you have to check your oil!

You want to change your oil at least once a year or every 20 hours of use with a good grade 5W30 motor oil. Most 4 cycle engines use around 20 ounces of oil; some of the bigger engines may need as much as a quart to bring to proper levels. It is a good idea to check your oil each time before you start your engine.
The oil's drain plug is located near the bottom of the engine. It has a hex cap that you should be able to remove with an adjustable crescent wrench.

Start your snowblower and let it run for several minutes before changing the oil and it will flow out much more easily.

On some models, you might have to hold the drain spout with a pliers while you turn the drain plug. This ensures that you don't bend the drain spout.

Place your drain pan under the spout and pull the drain plug. Let the oil drain until it doesn't drip anymore. Replace the plug and tighten it down good. Don't overtighten, but you want to make sure you don't have any leaks.

You can now replace the used oil with fresh oil. If you're unsure how much oil to fill, check your owner's manual, or pour the used oil into an empty oil bottle using a funnel. That will give you a good estimate of how much oil your machine needs.

Cap the oil, check the level on the dip stick, and top it off if necessary.

Checking your spark plug is a simple task that requires only a socket and ratchet, or a plug wrench. If you're new to replacing spark plugs, make sure you use a special plug socket or a plug wrench. They're designed to protect the ceramic end of the spark plug so you don't accidentally snap it off when removing the plug.

Pull your plug and look at it. If there's any corrosion or buildup whatsoever, your best bet is to simply replace it. Spark plugs are cheap, so you might as well just replace them. When you install the new plug, remember to snug it up, no need to tighten it hard.