Step-by-Step how to knit and felt a purse.

Starting with Wool yarn, this is a have-to. Wool yarn felts. No other yarn felts. Alpaca works best mixed with wool. If you're using a blend, make sure the blend is more than 50 or 60% wool, felting may take several washes with blended yarns.

The finished size of this bag is:

11" wide at the base,
7" wide closure flap,
7" tall,
9.5" wide at base of straps,
26" long strap
smallest part of flap 5"

Before felting the knitted piece measured:

16" wide at the base,
10" wide closure flap,
8 " tall,
13" wide at base of straps
Smallest part of flap 7"
31" long strap

I used Sesame and Chestnut Brown colored Wool Yarn - Patons Classic Wool. I also used Sock Yarn multicolored tans and browns.

NAME THIS BAG CONTEST

STARTING AT THE BASE, MAKING A RECTANGLE

Holding two strands of the yarn together (in my case the brown) cast on 34 stitches using size 13 circular needles.

You will slip the first stitch every time you turn your work (you're not knitting in the round yet) SO:

Slip the first stitch, knit 33,
turn, next row slip the first stitch, knit 33,
turn (repeat until you have 12 slipped stitches on each end which is 24 rows)

Once you have 12 slipped stitches on each end of the rectangle you are ready to begin picking up stitches down one "end" of the base.

REMEMBER:
Any questions you have along the way can be answered in the ASK ME A QUESTION section near the bottom of this article. Or click on this link.

Now you're ready to build the purse up from the rectangular base.

Now drop the left needle, beginning at the upcoming short side of your rectangle put your right needle through the "slipped stitch" in the base and pull all three strands of yarn through leaving it on the right needle (picking up a stitch) along with the 34 stitches from making your last row already on the needle. Stitches will accumulate on the circular wire attaching the two needles.

This presents a problem:

Being able to distinguish where your strap will start and end requires a MARKER!

My markers look like little plastic safety pins. (see picture).. The "Safety Pin Markers" stay in the work all the way through knitting the bag and preserve the stitches for the strap and the width of the sides of the bag.

So, place a marker between the last (34th stitch) and the 1st of the 12 added stitches, pick up in all 12 slipped stitches on the side, place a marker, pick up stitches in the 34 cast on stitches, and place a marker, then pick up 12 on the other end of the rectangle, place a marker. It would help a lot if the last marker is a different style or color than all the others, because this is the beginning of knitting in the round.

If you don't have markers, small rubber bands, actual metal safety pins, a different type and/or color of yarn tied in a small circle, or key rings all work as markers. Be creative. They need to be large enough to slide over the needles and move with your work.

After knitting the solid colored base with two strands of wool yarn held together, then adding your markers and picking up stitches you'll be starting up the sides of the purse. This is where you can add the multicolored sock yarn to the two strands of yarn you're already working with, this will give you a tweed textured look in the finished piece. More details in Step FOUR

Once you add the multicolored sock yarn to the two strands you're already holding, you're ready to knit in the round.

READY?

After knitting the base and placing your markers, you start knitting in the round on your circular needles. Once you've knit at least 10 rows or more you're ready to add some interest. Embellish your bag by adding a wide stripe. Really the stripe can be anywhere, experiment with several patterns as you design your own purses.

To add the wide stripe pattern on the purse, at the beginning of a row, any point in the first 30 rows remove a Chestnut Brown strand of yarn from the3 yarns you're holding, cut it leaving about a 8" tail, and add the "Sesame" colored strand. To add a new color, add it at the beginning of a row - at your unique colored marker. Wrap the new yarn over the working yarns by laying it on top with the yarn end in front of your work. knit the first stitch then move the strand to the back of your work, you will weave this in when the bag is finished. If it bothers you, temporarily make a loose knot with it tying it to the Chestnut Brown strand you just cut.

Experiment. In the past I've added a stripe closer to the top, I've added multiple stripes, a narrow one, then a thicker one, then another matching narrow equal distance like a racing stripe. I've added 4 or 5 stripes of equal distance throughout the bag. Changing colors adds a stripe that wraps your entire bag.

Eventually you will want the purse to come in on the sides to make the base wider than the top opening. Step FIVE explains how to bring the sides in and still retain the width on the sides for your straps and shaping.

REMEMBER:
Any questions you have along the way can be answered in the ASK ME A QUESTION section near the bottom of this article.

NAME THIS BAG CONTEST

DECREASING

To DECREASE stitches, and begin bringing the sides in, start about 1/2 way up the bag.

It will have a full look at the bottom and a nice shape at the top.

The bag was about 6" high when I started the decrease process.

(NOTE: always preserve the 12 stitches on each end between markers as this is the width of your straps - never decrease in this area until working on the straps).

Knit one of the 34 stitches on the front then DECREASE by knitting two stitches together K2tog, finish knitting to the last 3 stitches before the next marker, slip a stitch as if knitting, slip another stitch as if knitting, then put the two slipped stitches back on the left needle and knit through the back loop of both stitches. (This will give a right slanting decrease on the left side of the bag.)

Knit one before the marker then move the marker and knit 12 stitches (preserved for the strap). After the next marker knit one, then K2tog as above. Knit to the last 3 stitches, slip, slip as above and knit through the back loop of both, knit one and you are back to the first marker in these instructions.

Knitting instructions for decrease in knitting terms. At 1st marker, K1, k2tog, k28, ssk, k1 slip marker, knit 12 slip marker, k1, k2tog, k28, ssk, k1, slip marker knit 12, back to first marker and beginning of the next row. Now simply knit several rows and repeat the decrease row. Don't go too narrow, remember in the felting process the bag shrinks approximately 25-30%.

I knit several more rows, looks like about 12 and decreased again as above, then did the same thing in another 8 or 10 rows. You can tell in the picture that about 6 stitches less at the top than at the base before starting the straps and flap.

If you have decreased in 3 different rows your original 34 stitches are now 28 on the front and back of the bag.

Once your piece is approximately 13 inches high starting at the unique colored marker bind off the first 34 stitches. Move marker, knit 12, move marker knit 34, now slip 12 stitches to a stitch holder. I used 3 of my small markers to hold my 12 stitches. They will be picked back up when you start the strap. A stitch holder looks like a big light weight safety pin.

Now turn your work and Purl the next 34 stitches, on the opposite side of the bag, at the marker place the other 12 stitches reserved for the strap onto a stitch holder.

alternately Knit one row and Purl the next keeping this pattern until the flap lays nicely about 1/2 way down your bag as in picture for Step FIVE.

To round off the closure flap, I did a couple of decrease rows similar to the decreases on the bag.

Here's what I did: K1, K2tog, K2tog, k8, K2tog, k8, SSK ,SSK, K1. (Now you're down to 23 stitches.)
Purl a row.
I decreased one more time on the next knit row, k1, k2tog, k17 , SSK, K1 then I bound off the last 7 stitches on the next knit row. Bind off 21 remaining stitches loosely.

The flap is done, now for the strap. Cut your yarn.

START THE STRAP INSTRUCTIONS HERE

Change needles: Using your SIZE 9 straight needles:

Move one set of the 12 stitches preserved on the stitch holder to your Size 9 straight needles. Put stitches in from left to right with the outside, right side, of the bag facing you. Knit the 12 stitches on the right side by attaching your 3 strands of yarn held together. Turn and purl the wrong side. Keep turning the work and knit right side, purl wrong side about 3 inches in this color (8 rows), change colors or continue the strap in the color you have started. I changed colors about 5" up the strap, then counted rows to change back when I got to the other side of the bag.

Decrease 2. (k1, k2 tog, k6, k2 tog, k1) Purl next row, k one row p next for 8 rows, and decrease 2 again on a knit row. Purl the next row and start the strap pattern.

Narrow part of the strap pattern:

K8 on right side
K2, Purl4, K2 on wrong side
Repeat until strap is 26 or 27 inches long

This will give the strap a design and keep it from rolling, in other words it will lay flat when felted.

Knit at least 26" then increase back to 12 stitches. You'll need 12 stitches for the last 5" of the strap to match the other side at the beginning.

You will increase by 2 stitches. Then knit right side, purl wrong side 8 rows and increase by 2 again.

Increase row: k1, k1 in front and back, k4, k1 in front and back, k1 (10 stitches) repeat after 8 rows and knit/purl as the beginning of the strap.

(There are several ways to increase, another method can be used if you're familiar. Since you're felting the item the method isn't crucial.)

Leave the 12 stitches on your size 9 straight needle ending with a purl row and go to step SEVEN.

If you've never used the "kitchener stitch" to attach two needles of stitches to each other, here's a video for that purpose. Pretty complicated at first. Watch the video several times, you'll get it - practice on two separate sample pieces before trying it here on this bag.

kitchener stitch - invisible horizontal seaming

You will love the looks of this once it's accomplished.

You already have your size 9 needle in the 12 stitches on the strap you just created, now add the other size 9 straight needle to the 12 stitches on the other side of the bag preserved in a stitch holder. Both needle points should be facing the same direction, each one has 12 stitches on it, hold them parallel with the right sides facing you. Cut the yarn about 18 or 20" long. You will thread this through a big eye needle for the kitchener step.

View the video.

Thread a darning needle with your 3 strands of yarn. You will place the sewing needle into the 1st stitch on front knitting needle purlwise (right to left), then into the first stitch on the back knitting needle as if to knit (needle goes in from left to right.) Leave these stitches on the needles for now.

You are virtually sewing these stitches together, yet knitting the stitches for an invisible seam.

Now you're ready for the pattern:

On the front needle: Knit the first stitch and drop it off the needle, then Purl the second stitch on the front needle, but leave it on the needle.

Then on the back needle Purl the first stitch and drop it off the needle, then Knit the second stitch but leave it on the needle.

Here's the pattern after the initial Stitches that you left on the needle (Purl front, Knit back - leave on)
Then repeat these steps:

Knit - drop - Purl (front) (in other words: knit the first stitch off the front needle but insert the needle purlwise on the second stitch and leave it on)
Purl - drop - Knit (back) (purl the first stitch off the needle but insert the needle into the second stitch knitwise)
REPEAT

REMEMBER:

Any questions you have along the way can be answered in the ASK ME A QUESTION section near the bottom of this article. Or click on this link.

Once you've trimmed and worked your extra yarn ends into your work you are ready to felt your bag.

I love measuring every aspect of a bag before and after to keep track of the shrinking process. It's amazing how they shape up in the wash.

I use a king size pillow case to wash the piece because it is long enough to tie a tight knot in the top. Drop the knit bag into the pillow case, tie a tight not in the top, run hottest water in your washer with laundry soap, add an old pair of jeans for agitation (must have agitation).

Only fill the washer 1/3 to 1/2 full, just enough to get the jeans and pillowcase covered with water to wash both the jeans and the bag in the pillowcase.

The first thing that happens to your wet wool bag is it gets very stretchy, loose and out of shape. If you notice this step in the process it means you're checking your bag way too soon. Give it at least 5 to 8 minutes before stopping the washer and opening the pillowcase to check the bag. Some people like a looser felt, others like a very thick dense felt I suggest that if you followed this pattern you felt this item for at least 14 minutes. You'll have a preference once you've experimented.

I let the washer rinse and spin my bags. I check them after the wash cycle, and I rinse with cold water. It takes a lot less time for them to air dry. (DO NOT DRY IN THE DRYER)

Tips on drying and shaping. After placing my bags on boxes wrapped in plastic bags, or wood blocks to shape them and let them dry, my sister suggested rolling a towel up into the shape of the bag and stuffing it in there - the towel wicks the moisture out.

YES IT SMELLS LIKE WET WOOL - but CLEAN wet wool. Leave to air dry for about a day, if you've shaped it well with the towel it is ready for a little cosmetic touch and some embellishments and ready to use.

I use a simple plastic razor to shave the fine hairs off of the felted bag. Sometimes it takes more than one razor. Here's a closeup picture of the bag before shaving.

See the before picture above.

I used gray and coral along with a multi-colored sock yarn for the second bag. I got it down twelve stitches by decreasing a few stitches each row, then gathered them together after I bound off the last 12 stitches, before I felted the bag.

I used solid charcoal and held a self striping "shades of gray" wool yarn as the second strand. I gave it a solid gray bottom and a solid gray handle.