Submarine Models: Model Kits and RC Submarine Models

The Revell 1:180 USS Lionfish Submarine is a highly detailed submarine model you can build yourself.

It is early 1945 during WWII. You are patrolling just off Japan in a Balao class submarine. Suddenly you see a blip on your radar screen. You plot an approach to the blip. As you get closer you realize your target is an I-Class Japanese submarine. The enemy has not seen you yet, so you fire two torpedoes at him. Unfortunately you miss, but the enemy is now alerted to your presence and turns to attack. You "pull the cork" and dive the boat to the safety of the depths. This actually happened to the USS Lionfish. Fortunately, the Lionfish survived the war and is currently a museum ship at Falls River, Massachusetts.

You can honor this and other war patrols made by the Lionfish by building Revell models. This USS Lionfish model kit contains 40 parts and at 1:180 scale the model is fairly large at 21" long. It has a highly detailed hull, deck, bridge and conning tower.

• twin propellers


• fore & aft diving planes


• deck gun& anti-aircraft guns


• authentic waterside markings


• memorial display stand

This is a skill level 2 submarine model, meaning it is simple enough for beginners to build but is still detailed enough for more experienced modelers to enjoy. It has some moving parts that add to the realism, and can be painted to add to the realistic look of the model. It also comes with a Memorial Stand so you can proudly display the finished model.
 



 

 

 

 

The great thing about modeling is you can you can build your model to be as simple or as complex as your desires and your skill level will allow. Most modelers start by building snap-together models, but usually quickly move to skill level 1 or 2 models that need to be glued together.

Gluing together plastic model parts is an art form and it takes some practice to get it right. Most modelers start with plastic model glue available on-line or at a hobby store. This glue actually bonds the pieces of plastic to each other by kind of "melting" the plastic. This makes for a very strong bond between the two pieces that are glued, but it also means the glue will "melt" any plastic it is on. If too much glue is used or if it drips on another plastic piece, it will mar it. It pays to be very careful with model glue, not only to use it only where needed, but also to use it only in a well-ventilated area.

Some modelers also use cyanoacrylate, which is better known by trade names like Super Glue and Krazy Glue. Cyanoacrylate bonds the plastic instead of "melting" it. Cyanoacrylate also sets quicker than model glue, and it is really handy for gluing clear plastic items such as aircraft canopies because model glue can sometimes cause clear plastic to fog up and cyanoacrylate does not.

A beginning modeler will need plastic model glue at the very least. Some may want to have some cyanoacrylate too, but it is not necessary to start. A beginning modeler who wants more realistic looking models will also want model paint. Many companies have paint kits containing standard colors that are used all the time. These standard colors usually include black, white, red, blue, green, yellow, silver and gold. Model paints are available in many more colors, and a modeler will want to use more colors as their skill level increases.