Better patchwork quilt photos

It's very bright on the bottom left.

How did that happen?

The studio has spot lights which can be turned to shine whever I like, but right beside the design wall, there's a door.

The top half is a clear pane, and I should have covered it with some dark fabric before I took the photo.

But if you take a few minutes to check that the ambient light is evenly distributed where you want take your quilt photo, it will save errors like the one above.

You can make the lighting better by placing a floor lamp nearby, or even two. And if you put daylight globes in the lamps, then the light shining on the quilt will be free from colour casts.

Try with and without the flash on your camera. Note which one works best in your situation.

In order to get the best shots for print or web, you need to place the quilt against a neutral background, not a striped wllpaper or some such!

Set up the wall by hanging a piece of mid-grey fabric that has been pressed flat. This fabric should be larger all around the quilt by about 3 inches.

Position the quilt so that it can then be deep etched — that's cut away from the background — with ease. Floral prints or busy backgrounds will make that very difficult.

Using aneutral background can make cropping easier for all sorts of end uses, because it will act as a subtle frame, and will not detract from your quilt.

When taking pictures of long quilts, you can get a shift in the parallel lines at the edge of the quilt.

The best example of this phenomenon is the way railway tracks seem to join together at the furthest point from you.

If you focus your camera upwards when taking a picture of a tall building, the sides of the structure will seem to converge at the top.

The same thing happens when you take a picture of any object with parallel sides. The blue lines in the picture show how the photographer was not dead centre.

How do you stop that from happening?

Very simply.

Position yourself in front of your quilt, at the very centre — both horizontally and vertically. Sit on a chair, or a table if that gets you in the right position.

I have a three step solid step ladder with wide steps and that lets me stand in just the right spot to get 'square on'.

If you have a focus setting on your camera which lets you set the centre focal point, use it when taking quilt pictures.

The setting is usually called prefocus and works by locking the focus on the centre and then recomposing the whole shot.

Check the manual for your camera for how to do this.

Place a piece of even width striped fabric, black and white is best, at the exact centre point of your quilt.

I like to draw a little red cross in the centre to make focussing easier. Set your prefocus on that.

Compose the entire shot and shoot.

Psst! Don't forget to remove the black and whitre fabric before you shoot!

No matter how hard I try, I don't seem able to keep my camera still.

I bought an inexpensive tripod, with a spirit level (to help with parallax error) and I can take good clean shots.

It is adjustable in so many directions that I can shoot from all angles for taking extreme close-us for details, or wide shots of students working, and everything in between.

A good investment.

Many people crop their photos to make the quilt look straight, and all that does it make it worse.

Cropping tools in image editing software vary in their features, so you will need to check your help files for your software.

Photoshop® has some amazing cropping features which allow you to straighten and adjust the quilt's sides. The Transform command will also allow you to push and pull the sides until the image is straight on all sides.

If you are sending the image to a third party for use on a website or in a print publication, don't crop too close. The designer will deep etch the background away. He/she can't do that if part of the edge is missing.