High seas, cold nights, a pitching deck - join me
I joined the replica LADY NELSON as she headed out into the notorious Bass Strait then sailed south to meet four meter swells on Storm Bay.
In 1800 the original wooden colonial brig, was the first vessel to sail Bass Strait from west to east.
Two hundred years later and with a full crew of eighteen, it took five days to navigate the north and east coasts of Tasmania.
The awesome scenery is unchanged from the days of the early explorers.
Join me.
Step back in time and experience tall ship sailing.
Pic: Unfurled - T'gallant, Tops'l and forecourse.
The LADY carries a complement of 11 sails
For more on The Lady Nelson and the Tasmanian Sail Training Association go to: LADY NELSON
The Lady Nelson seen on the Tamar 200 years after her first visit
The original colonial brig was built in 1798 at Deptford on the Thames.Named after Lord Nelson's wife, the little brig was only 16m long with a 5m beam and weighed 60 tons. She carried two masts and was square rigged on both of her masts.
In order to sail into shallow water in the Antipodes, the original 'Lady' was fitted with three sliding centreboards in place of a fixed keel.
Under the command of Lieutenant Grant, the Lady Nelson left The Thames in March 1800 and sailed to the new settlement in New South Wales.
This remarkable small vessel carried a small crew and an eccentric physician accompanied by his pet dog and monkey.
In 1801 the Lady Nelson was the first vessel to sail west to east along Bass Strait and the first to make landfall on what is now South Australia.
Also in 1801, under the command of Lt. John Murray, the Lady Nelson sailed into Port Philip Bay - until then, an undiscovered harbour.
In 1803 she headed south and sailed up the Derwent River to investigate a site for settlement in southern Van Diemens Land.
In 1804 she sailed up the Tamar River (where my journey began) to select a site for the future city of Launceston.
She returned south to the Derwent and established a site for Hobart and later headed north to the Hunter River to establish the city of Newcastle.
After that the Lady Nelson was used as both a coal carrier, and convict transport ship conveying prisoners from Norfolk Island to Van Diemens Land.
In 1825 sailing north to Timor, the Lady Nelson was lost.
Her burnt out hull was later discovered in Timor and it is thought that the crew were murdered, the cargo pillaged and the ship burnt.
An ignominious end to a proud little lady.
Pic: The replica Lady Nelson returns to the Tamar River in Tasmania (Van Diemens Land).
Lady Nelson visits the Tamar River
In April 2009, the Lady Nelson sailed north from Hobart to Port Dalrymple on the north coast of Tasmania.Nowadays the replica ship only sails to the north of Tasmania once a year.
She spends a week at King's Wharf, Inspection Head at Beauty Point before joining the yachts taking part in the Hydro Tasmania Three Peaks Race,
As it is a few years since I sailed on a tall ship, I couldn't resist the opportunity to join her for a short sail on the river.
Stepping aboard brought back memories of my tall ship sailing days on the Leeuwin in Western Australia and also the 23 day clipper voyage across the Atlantic (see links below).
Little did I know what a short river cruise it would lead to.
Doing the tourist thing, I paid my $15 and boarded.
Pic: Lady Nelson at King's Wharf - note the size of the vessel - only 16m long and 5m beam. Little bigger than the passing fore and aft yacht.
Hydro Tasmania's Three Peak Yacht race
The Three Peaks Race is a remarkable land and sea endurance race.The Tasmanian version is an ultra marathon event for both boat crews and runners.
The sailors must navigate around half the inhospitable coast of Tasmania and combat the turbulent seas of Bass Strait and Storm Bay with the winds of the Roaring Forties, icy blasts from the Antarctic and seas of the Southern Ocean to contend with.
For the runners there are three mounains to climb - Mt Strzelecki on Flinders Island, Mt Freycinet and The Hazards on the Freycinet Peninsula and finally Mt Wellington at Hobart (which a week before was decked in snow).
A truly ultra marathon event!
At 2.pm on Good Friday, the starting gun was fired and that afternoon the fleet, with Lady Nelson following them, sailed out of the mouth of the Tamar River and onto the choppy waters of Bass Strait.
The competing sailing craft were making for their first peak on Flinders Island.
The Lady Nelson was heading for the light on Swan Island at the North eastern tip of Tasmania.
Pic: Lady Nelson follows the floatilla as they head out into Bass Strait
Tall ship sailing - new crew
Two days before the Lady Nelson was due to sail back to Hobart, one of the crew (of 18) pulled out due to injury. I was surprised when I was asked if I would like to sail south with the ship.Perhaps the fact that I had previously sailed on a tall ship (STS Leeuwin out of Fremantle) had some bearing.
I don't know why I was so lucky, but the idea appealed to me.
WOW! - What and opportunity.
I said yes.
Despite the prospect of watches throughout each 24 hrs with 2 hours on and 4 off, the chance to sail out into Bass Strait on a small brig on a 5 day voyage half way around Tasmania was not to be missed.
It just goes to show you never know what is around the corner!
But by evening I was not so elated.
The seas were boiling.
It was rough and I was too sick to go below to my bunk.
It was a long cold night sitting on the open deck of small ship.
I can only imagine how much discomfort the early sailors and their passengers suffered without the advantage of thermal underwear and wet-weather gear.
You are never too old to embark on such an adventure.
Pic: By day two al signs of seasickness were gone and I enjoyed the rest of the voyage.
Breakfast at Binalong Bay - Bay of Fires
I was not the only one sick that first night.I think all the crew were happy when the Captain Alan took the Lady Nelson into Binalong Bay so we could eat breakfast on a fairly level table.
About a year ago I had visited the Bay by car and sat on the red rocks and looked out at some boats bobbing on the bay.
At that time I never imagined that one day I would be aboard a sailing ship looking back towards those rocks.
After breakfast we pulled up anchor and resumed our southerly course but now, without a suitable wind for the square-rigger, we were limited to motoring to keep to schedule.
Pic: Binalong Bay at the southern end of the aptly-named Bay of Fires
Slingshot first into Coles Bay in Hydro Tasmania Three Peaks event
After a day and night at sea, I left the deck at 4.00am as we were sailing through the Schouten Passage.Soon after I was woken by the sound of the anchor dropping in Coles Bay.
Overnight nothing had been seen of the race entrants.
It was Easter Sunday and the Easter Bunny had just delivered Easter eggs to every bunk when the first boat in the race entered the Bay.
It was the multihulled, Slingshot of Neil Buckby Motors Subaru.
According to the rules of the race, the competing boats are not allowed to use their motors, and with a lack of hardly any wind the crew had to resort to rowing.
It was no easy task for a boat of that size.
As soon as Slingshot docked at the wharf, the two designated runners were off over the Hazards to climb Mt Freycinet - the second peak.
Three Peaks Race competitors in a close race at Freycinet
Lolling on the anchor chain we rested for most of the day and watched the boats in the Three Peaks race coming into Coles Bay.
There was a gap between first second and third boats home then six of the 13 competing craft rounded the headland and entered Coles Bay in close succession.
What a sight it was as they came around the headland - spinnakers flying.
But it was sun was ready to set and the runners had the daunting prospect of running up Mt Freycinet in the dark.
The Three Peaks Race is a remarkable endurance event for both sailors and runners.
Night sailing
Another night on board the small wooden brig as we sailed by the Isle de Phoques (seal island) and the historic Maria Island accompanied by a school (?) of dolphins.Next morning, I was once again woken to the sound of the anchor chain being fed out.
When I came on deck I discovered we were in Fortescue Bay. The tranquil waters were only broken by the dolphins slicing the surface.
The Candlestick at Cape Hauy
This part of Tasmania's coast if almost inaccessible and few people get to see it.The scenery is awesome and unchanged since the early explorers saw it!
How lucky we are! Only smaller boats and sailing vessels can get a close view of the jagged dolerite cliffs of the south east coast of Tasmania.
After breakfast we sailed past The Candlestick (a Holy Grail for rock climbers) and rounded Cape Hauy.
The sky was blue.
The sea was smooth and we were not alone.
Juvenile albatross skimmed the water and dolphins frolicked in the bow waves.
There were schools of fish churning up the sea's surface and seals serpentined through the blue water.
Pic: The Candlestick
Cape Hauy
Doubling Tasman Island
From Cape Hauy to Cape Pillar the scenery got even better.Ahead was the bottom corner of Tasmania with Tasman Island sitting like a full stop at the end of the line.
A channel runs between the island and the cape.
So far the sea had been relatively calm but as we entered the narrow channel we could see a change in the surface ahead.
Pic: Yours truly on deck as we are about to sail through the Channel.
Tasman Island once had a manned lighthouse.
Cape Pillar - South east coast of Tasmania
Crossing Maingon Bay
The Lady Nelson pitched and heeled and waves broke over the bow, washing the deck sending water pouring from the scuppers.Everyone was harnessed and clipped on.
This is sailing at its best!
The long swell reminded me of the Atlantic rollers I had once experienced and I loved every minute of it.
Ahead was Cape Raoul.
To the north of Maingon Bay is the entrance to Port Arthur. Unfortunatley there was no time to pay a visit.
Cape Raoul and Storm Bay
The Lady Nelson rode the waves bravely as she rounded the dragon-like headland of Cape Raoul.Ahead was open water and a four hour sail across Storm Bay.
The LadyNelson heeled over with every passing swell.
It was a good leg exercise!
From there we headed south down the D'Entrecasteaux Channel to take advantage of the shelter of Bruny Island for the final night.
Morning waters at Woodbridge
After being tossed by the sea for 5 days, to wake to the glassy surface of the D'Entrecasteaux was unreal.The channel runs for 30 nautical miles between Bruny Island and the mainland.
The wharf at Woodbridge is the place Lady Nelson moors on many of her short voyages.
The crew were aware that Hobart and the Lady's home port were only a few hours' sail to the north, and no one wanted the voyage to end.
Photos: Lady Nelson awakes to a still morning at Woodbridge
Woodbridge, D'Entrecasteaux Channel, Tasmania
Birthplace of Lady Nelson replica
As we headed north bound for Hobart I was on the helm.Part way up the channel we passed the small shipyard where the Lady Nelson replica was built in 1989.
Her construction was a project envisioned by a group of Tasmanians, but like the best laid plans of mice and men, for a time the ship's future ran into troubled waters.
However after several years and much determined effort the replica ship, which holds so much significance in the history of Australia's early settlement, was returned to serve the people of Tasmania.
It is now manned and run entirely by volunteers.
Photos: Yours truly at the helm of the Lady Nelson sailing by the shipyard on the D'Entrecateaux Channel where the replica brig was built 200 years after the original was launched on The Thames.
Reflections on the Lady Nelson
What a feeling it was to sail up the River Derwent and into Constitution Dock.Most of the yachts in the Hydro Tasmania Three Peaks Race had arrived before us and most of the runners had completed their final long endurance race up Mount Wellington.
As the skipper eased the Lady Nelson against the wharf it was satisfying to know the ship had made it safely home.
Today the replica brig is run by the Sail Training Association of Tasmania and crewed by volunteers of all ages.
Pic: Lady Nelson back in Hobart. Windeward Bound in the next dock.
Some links
- THE LADY NELSON
- Website of Tasmanian Sail Training Association
- Margaret Muir's website
- Fairly static and maily about my books
- Margaret Muir's Blog
- A bit of all sorts, sailing, travelling, books, history, whatever takes my fancy.
MATTHEW BRADY - Tasmania's gentleman bushranger
Matthew Brady was transported to Van Diemen's land on the fully rigged convict transport ship - 'Juliana' (Captain Ogilvie) in 1820.When the vessel returned to England in 1821 she offloaded her passengers, including the Captain's wife, and took shelter in the Downs. But a storm blew up and dashed her on the rocks. Captain Ogilvie and his crew perished.
Matthew Brady also sailed to Macquarie harbour on a smaller vessel, sailed back to Hobart in a stolen whaleboat, and when finally captured near Launceston, was transported by sea around the east coast of Tasmania.
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Matthew Brady - Tasmania's 'gentleman' bushranger
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Matthew Brady was just 20 when he was transported to Van Diemen's Land. Six years later he was hung from the gallows in Hobart Town. But what was it about Brady which endeared women to him so much that his trial had to be interrupted because of th...
Till next time
Sailing with the Lady Nelson for an extended voyage was something I had never envisioned a week before we left Launceston.I only wish I lived a little closer to Hobart so I could join the crew more often.
However, I am sure I will be returning to sail back into history on the deck of this replica ship which made it's mark in Australia's history.
For more info on The Lady Nelson and the Tasmanian Sail Training Association go to: LADY NELSON
Crossing the Atlantic on a Barquentine and other TALL SHIPS
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Join me on my travels around the world
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My historical novels
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THE CONDOR'S FEATHER - due July 2009
A dramatic adventure set in Patagonia in 1885
THE CONDOR'S FEATHER is due July 2009.To order at a BIG discount price and with FREE WORLDWIDE DELIVERY go to:
THE BOOK DEPOSITORY.
UK buyers can order postage free from the publisher www.Halebooks.com
To read more about the book and my inspiration for writing it go the the link above this entry.
One can still live the dream - is it yours too?
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Reply
- Mac33 Mac33 Apr 21, 2009 @ 7:09 pm
- Wow, what a cool adventure. Bummer about the seasickness but sounds like it was well worth it. Beautiful pictures of the trip...the scenery is awesome. Thanks for sharing!
by throughglasseyes
Hi, my name's Margaret Muir. I'm an author and I live in Tasmania (Au). I enjoy writing and have had four novels published. I also love tall ships and...
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