A Tandem Paragliding Experience in Switzerland

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Choosing where to go paragliding was not too difficult a decision for me. I had fallen in love with Switzerland during my summer there, and knew that the scenery was stunning.

As I was travelling with my husband, and the paraglide was to be only a small part of our time there, I wanted to stay in a place that had a lot else to offer. Zermatt, near Switzerland's border with Italy, sounded perfect: no end of mountain walks, good public transport for lazier days and higher peaks, mountain bike trails, and a charming high-altitude town with all modern conveniences (but no cars).

A quick web search also confirmed that there was also a paragliding school. My mind was made up.

I arrived in Zermatt without having booked my tandem paragliding 'air taxi' experience. In fact this was a few years ago, and it wasn't even possible to book it over the Internet at that time.

This meant that, even though I was right there in this paradise of high alpine peaks, and with only a few months until my 30th birthday... I still faced a big hurdle.

I still had to commit to trying paragliding.

As I recall, it took more than one stroll pass the 'Air Taxi' shop (which always seemed to be shut!), casually peering through the window, before I found the courage to call the mobile number to make my booking. In the end, I did it knowing that I would never forgive myself if I got on that plane back home having missed my chance.

It was Midsummer's Day, 2003. The hottest day so far of the hottest summer on record in that area. The glaciers were melting - we were kept awake at night by the boulders in the Vispa river knocking together as the melted glacier water rushed and gushed over the riverbed.

The sky was an intense, cloudless blue. I rose early, excited but a little nervous. As the instructor had advised, I wore comfortable clothes with sturdy hiking boots, and took a lightweight jacket. I met the instructor at the entrance to the funicular, which is also where I parted from my ever-supportive husband - who arranged to meet us at the landing site from where he would be taking photos.

First we went up in the funicular (a cable railway, something like a cross between a train and a cable car), making small talk as I tried to hold back the nerves. I know at this point many people change their minds and end up making a return journey back to town. However, I knew that was not the right option for me.

In any case, I was in good hands. Dani, my instructor that day, has been flying since 1986. This is the man who has flown above and around the Matterhorn - taking me down to Zermatt was just a small hop for him!

We emerged on the sunny plateau at Sunnegga to a glorious morning. No time to drink it in, we went on up into the cable car. My instructor was weighed down with an enormous pack on his back, which of course contained the paraglider wing and harnesses.

At Blauherd we stepped out and made our way to a steep downhill grassy area, towards the edge. The sun was rising and it was already a hot day in Zermatt below, but cooler up here. Blauherd, at 2578 metres (1.6 miles) above sea level, is 2 and a half hours walk from Zermatt - although I wasn't planning to take nearly that long to get back to terra firma and my waiting husband below!

(Pictured - my one-way ticket!)

I felt rather like a spare part standing there fighting the butterflies in my stomach as my instructor unpacked the wing. For this 'air taxi' experience, there was no need for me to be involved in laying out the paraglider and all the lines. And, although I was interested, I felt it was important to keep quiet and not distract my instructor during these vital checks.

Slowly the crumpled fabric with its tangle of lines took shape. This large but very thin expanse of fabric and the delicate-looking yellow lines that looked barely sturdy enough to hang washing on, were all that would come between the two of us and a plummet of over half a mile.

I tried not to think these thoughts, but instead to focus on the loveliest view I have ever seen - the valley of Zermatt almost completely encircled by snow-covered peaks. This impressive panorama is dominated by the majestic Matterhorn, which is sometimes veiled by clouds but on that morning was crystal clear. A triangular mountain, as though drawn by a child, it has captivated tourists for centuries.

Then suddenly I was being summoned, and helped into a harness, which was attached to that of my instructor behind me. Ready? You bet! It was now or never.

We began to run. Like many of the people I have seen since in videos, my steps were still a little hesitant and (like them) I was pretty much shoved by the instructor! And then... like in a cartoon... there was no more ground beneath my running feet.

We were airborne.

This perfect morning was so still, so silent, barely a breeze at all. Within moments, we were gliding down over the mountain restaurant at Sunnegga, swooping so close I almost ran across its roof! Then out, over the valley.

My instructor kept up a flow of conversation but I was simply struck silent by the amazing sensation of flying... and in such a place. The Matterhorn before me, Zermatt below me, just like a dream.

We circled like an eagle over toy-town Zermatt so far down. One moment we were gliding towards the Matterhorn, the next we had turned to face the other direction, looking all the way down the valley.

As we drifted lower, I could see the church steeple, then the familiar streets, and then even our hotel. I wondered where my husband was and kept looking for him as we came ever lower, circling around and around.

We reached the tree line on the mountain sides, skimming their tops. Then we were over the valley again, much lower, with the landing site behind the station approaching. My instructor spotted my husband and I waved as he took my picture.

Then the ground rushed up and I was running again in thin air... and then on the ground, my knees beginning to buckle beneath me.

I had done it! I had flown. And my husband had captured it in photos and was there to meet me when I fell from the sky and was again earthbound.

Sadly, people have been injured and killed paragliding and even during tandem paragliding experiences, although it does not happen often. Like all extreme sports, paragliding carries a risk. If you take a tandem paraglide or 'air taxi', always wear a helmet and ensure your instructor is from a reputable paragliding school.

My flight was with Paragliding Zermatt.

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