Train Dog at Home, Learn To Train Dog at Home

There are as many areas in which to train as there are methods. Most often certain methods, or combinations of methods are applied to any area of training. Obedience, herding, agility, tracking, retrieving, hunting, guard, and schutzhund are common areas of dog training.

Teaching a dog basic obedience commands (part of obedience training)
Teaching a dog to perform tricks casually or for circus acts
Teaching a guide dog to lead the blind
Teaching a rescue dog to find victims of a disaster
Teaching a hunting dog to perform its instinctive behaviors at appropriate times

As pack animals, wild dogs have natural instincts that favor cooperation with their fellow dogs. These instincts have been refined and exaggerated through years of selective breeding by humans, and are manifested in the domestic dog's adeptness at correctly interpreting and responding to signals given by a human handler. The handler is simply whoever is working with a dog at the time.

Basic training

Most dogs, no matter their eventual advanced training or intended purpose, live with people and therefore must behave in a way that makes them pleasant to be around, keeps them safe, and provides for the safety of other people and pets. Dogs do not figure out basic obedience on their own; they must be trained.

The hardest part of training is communicating with the dog in a humane way that he understands. However, the underlying principle of all communication is simple: reward desired behavior while ignoring or correcting undesired behavior.

Basic pet obedience training usually consists of 5 behaviors:

Sit
Down
Stay
Recall ("come" or "here")
Close (or loose-leash walking)

The recall command is arguably the most important of all training commands. It is critical to never punish a dog if they respond to a recall. Punishing a dog upon recall quickly teaches the dog that if he returns he will be punished. If the dog requires a correction, the handler should go to the dog - the dog should not be asked to come and then punished. The dog will attribute the punishment to whatever behavior he was doing directly before receiving it, and if that behavior was responding (correctly) to a recall, then the handler has just inadvertently taught the dog to run away from the recall command.

"Corrections" should never include harmful physical force or violence. Using force while training is controversial and should not be taken lightly, because even if it ends the behavior, when applied inappropriately with some dogs it may lead to a loss of drive (enthusiasm for the given task), stress, and in extreme cases even aggression. It is up to the handler to decide what amount of force (if any) is appropriate. However, the standard used by most trainers is the minimum amount necessary to inhibit the unwanted behavior. A common technique is to quickly jerk an attached collar and "lead" (another term for a leash, usually short, 4' is good) as a consequence for ignoring a command. (i.e., Sparky is jumping up on a guest, say "off" if he's already jumped up, or if you see he's thinking about it say, "down" and if the command is ignored then "correct" Sparky by "snapping" the lead to make his collar rattle.) A common alternative to physical corrections is a time-out from a preferred location or activity. (i.e., Sparky jumps up on a guest and is immediately given a 5-minute time-out in a separate room - away from the guests he wants to interact with.)

Puppy and learning

The prenatal period is a recent addition to the developmental periods of puppies. It is thought that "long-term effects on behavioral development may also be produced in some mammals by events occurring in utero." (Serpell, 1995, p. 80) Previous studies tended to overlook the existence of this period, since the puppy's behavior could not be observed. With the development of the ultrasound machine, a puppy could be observed within the mother as early as the fourth week of gestation.

It was found that puppies would react to touch and/or pressure from the outside of the mother's abdomen. In addition, it is theorized that since puppies have such a well-developed sense of touch at birth, the sense of touch would also be well-developed before birth. Puppies may be sensitive to touch received by the mother while still unborn. Studies have found that "when a pregnant animal is petted her litter is more docile (Denenberg and Whimbey 1963, in Fox 1978)." According to Fox (1975, in Fox 1978) this facilitates relaxation, emotional attachment, and socialization as well. Other studies have indicated that puppies that receive outside contact (petting of the mother) while in utero have a higher tolerance for touching than puppies who receive no contact at all. One could deduce that gentle petting of the mother's abdomen could help to facilitate positive, beneficial puppy socialization with people.

During the first two weeks of a puppy's life, also known as the neonate period, puppies can learn simple associations. (Serpell, 1995) However, early experience events are unlikely to carry over into later periods. Studies indicate that puppies in the neonate period do not seem to learn by experience. (Scott and Fuller, 1965) It is theorized that this is due to the fact that the puppy's brain, sense, and motor organs are still undeveloped. Based on its limited capacity to sense and learn it would be difficult to affect the puppy psychologically, either in a positive or negative sense. (Scott and Fuller, 1965)

The next period of development is known as the socialization period. This is arguably the most important developmental period, beginning around 3 weeks (21 days) old, and ending around 12 weeks old. (Beaver, 1999) The biggest aspect of this period is social play. Social investigation (curiosity), playful fighting and playful sexual behavior (body contact) is very important to developing social relationships during its life. (Scott and Fuller, 1965) New behavior patterns are directly influenced by the puppy's interaction with its mother and other puppies in the litter.

This is a time for developing social relationships, both among other puppies as well as with people. These behaviors are relatively easy for any individual who stays with the puppies during this period. However, there is a point where the puppies can develop a fear of strangers. At 3-5 weeks of age, puppies will actively approach strangers. Shortly thereafter stranger avoidance begins and slowly escalates until it peaks around 12-14 weeks of age. (Beaver, 1999) While this natural fear of strangers could serve as a way to keep a curious puppy away from predators, it can also hinder normal relationships with people.

During this period, startle reactions to sudden movement and sounds is now present. This serves to help the puppy learn to differentiate between which events are dangerous, and which events are safe or insignificant. (Scott and Fuller, 1965) During the socialization period, the development of attachment to certain locations occurs. This is displayed by an extreme disturbance in the puppy whenever a change in location occurs. This is known as "localization". (Serpell, 1995) "Localization" often peaks in puppies between 6-7 weeks old (Scott and Fuller, 1965), and then tapers off after that time to the point where a change in location is no longer distressing to the puppy.

Dogs that are handled and petted by humans regularly during the first eight weeks of life are generally much more amenable to being trained and living in human households. Ideally, puppies should be placed in their permanent homes between about 8 and 10 weeks of age. In some places it is against the law to take puppies away from their mothers before the age of 8 weeks. Before this age, puppies are still learning tremendous amounts of socialization skills from their mother. Puppies are innately more fearful of new things during the period from 10 to 12 weeks, which makes it harder for them to adapt to a new home.

Puppies can begin learning tricks and commands as early as 8 weeks of age; the only limitations are the pup's stamina, concentration, and physical coordination. It is much easier to live with young dogs that have already learned basic commands such as sit. Waiting until the puppy is older and has already learned undesirable habits makes the training much more challenging. (Beaver, 1999; Lindsay, 2000; Scott and Fuller 1965; Serpell 1995)

Basic training class

Professional "dog trainers" usually do not train the dogs, but actually train the owners on how to train their own dogs. Although it is also possible to send a dog away to a training school, the owner still must at some point learn what the dog has learned and how to use and reinforce the techniques. Some call this a shortcut, but plenty of work is still required and training must continue over the course of the dog's life. Owners and dogs who attend class together have an opportunity to learn more about each other and how to work together under a trainer's guidance. Training is most effective if everyone who handles the dog takes part in the training to ensure consistent commands, methods, and enforcement. Classes also help socialize your dog to other people and dogs. Training classes are offered by many kennels, pet stores, and independent trainers.

Formal training in classes is not always available until the puppy has completed all its vaccinations at around 4 months; however, some trainers offer puppy socialization classes in which puppies can enroll immediately after being placed in their permanent homes as long as disease risk is minimal and puppies have received initial vaccinations. In most cases, basic training classes accept only puppies who are at least 3 to 6 months old.

The addition of a family member is a significant change in any home, but what if that addition has needle-sharp teeth and a rebellious curiosity that ruined valuables and can result in household chaos? A puppy requires discipline, consistency, and patience of its owner. To avoid a domestic fiasco, owners should take time to train their puppies and take steps to make their home safe for each family member, from animals to children. The puppy training phase is integral in raising a healthy and happy dog and keeping a safe and fun home environment.

Puppies need consistency from their owners more than anything else. A stable diet and clear guidance of expectations will help the puppy learn what it is supposed to do and where to do it. Knowing exactly what your puppy wants is a difficult, if not impossible, aspect of training. Dogs are expressive but they will not get any discernible messages across to an inexperienced owner. Puppies communicate needs by biting, whining, and getting fidgety. The way the owner responds can make the difference between a healthy, obedient puppy and an unstable mess.

If a puppy is caught chewing on something he or she should not be, the best reaction is to shout at the object in front of the dog, rather than yelling at or punishing the dog. If hit or directly scolded, the dog will not understand and the owner will only harm their relationship. The chewing problem can be solved by supplying and encouraging use of appropriate chew toys and monitoring the puppy. The owner should take care to buy few and similar toys as too many toys can confuse the dog, especially if the toys are diverse. Plush toys are NOT appropriate toys for puppies, as the toy has a similar mouth-feel to pillows, socks, clothing and children's toys. The puppy doesn't know the difference; it's best not confuse it. An important principle many people don't know, or act on, is that the best way to change a puppy's behavior is to modify one's own conduct.

Another tip that will facilitate easier puppy training is to give the dog toys that are similar to household items he or she likes to chew. If the puppy is keen on shoes, purchasing a rubber toy similar to a shoe sole might be helpful. Never designate old shoes as fair game for a shoe-chomping puppy, as the puppy will not know the difference between appropriate and inappropriate shoes on which to snack, and may break off and choke on a piece of the shoe.

An integral puppy training issue is house training. As there is no one right or wrong way, various methods of housetraining will work. The key is to be consistent. With regularly enforced rules, litter box, crate, or paper training can be successful. Also make sure all members of the household enforce the rules whenever possible. Accidents happen, so have a procedure for clean-up.

Puppies require time, energy, and money. Their food alone averages about ten dollars a month and trips to the vet for check-ups and shots can get costly. But effective puppy training can reward a person with a loyal companion. Exceptional puppy training is imperative for giving puppies their best opportunity to live a fun, healthy, and loving life.

Communicate the dog

Fundamentally, dog training is about communication. From the human perspective the handler is communicating to the dog what behaviors are correct, desired, or preferred in what circumstances and what behaviours are undesirable. From the canine perspective the handler must learn what motivates the dog if the optimum result is desired.

A successful handler must also understand the communication that the dog sends to the handler. The dog can signal that he is unsure, confused, nervous, happy, excited, and so on. The emotional state of the dog is an important consideration in directing the training, as a dog that is stressed or distracted will not learn efficiently.

According to Learning Theory there are four important messages that the handler can send the dog:

Reward or release marker
Correct behavior. You have earned a reward. For example, "Free" or "Okay" followed by a reward.
Keep going signal
Correct behavior. Continue and you will earn a reward. For example, "Good" or "Come on".
No reward marker
Incorrect behavior. Try something else. For example, "Uh-oh" or "Try again".
Punishment marker
Incorrect behavior. You have earned punishment. For example, "No" or more specific commands like "off," "out," or "leave it."
Using consistent signals or words for these messages enables the dog to understand them more quickly. If the handler sometimes says "good" as a reward marker and sometimes as a keep going signal, it is difficult for the dog to know when he has earned a reward.

It is important to note that the dog's reward is not the same as the reward marker. The reward marker is a signal that tell the dog that he has earned the reward. Many novice dog owners make the mistake of using effusive verbal praise as both a reward marker and a reward, which can confuse dog and owner.

Rewards can be praise, treats, play, or anything that the dog finds rewarding. Failure to reward after the reward marker diminishes the value of the reward marker and makes training more difficult.

These four messages do not have to be communicated only with words, but also with nonverbal signals. In particular, mechanical clickers are frequently used for the reward marker. Hand signals and body language also play an important part in learning for dogs. The meanings of the four signals are taught to the dog through repetition, so that he may form an association by classical conditioning. For example, if the handler consistently gives the dog a reward marker immediately before he gives the dog a food treat, the dog soon will learn to associate the reward marker with receiving something pleasant (clicker trainers call forming this association "charging up" the clicker). Likewise, if the dog is always given a punishment marker before he is scolded or put outside for bad behaviour, he will soon learn to associate the punishment marker with the punishment itself.

Dogs usually do not generalize commands easily; that is, a dog who has learned a command in a particular location and situation may not immediately recognize the command to other situations. A dog who knows how to "down" in the living room may suffer genuine confusion if asked to "down" at the park or in the car. The command will need to be retaught in each new situation, though it may be substantially easier after being taught at home where there are fewer distractions. This is sometimes called "cross-contextualization," meaning the dog has to apply what's been learned to many different contexts.

Reward and punishment

Most training revolves around giving the dog consequences for his behaviour, in the hope of influencing the behaviour the dog will exhibit in the future. Operant conditioning defines four types of consequences:

Positive reinforcement adds something to the situation to increase the chance of the behaviour being exhibited again (for example, giving a dog a treat when he sits.)

Negative reinforcement removes something from the situation to increase the chance of the behaviour being exhibited again (for example, releasing the tension on an uncomfortable training collar when the dog stops pulling on the leash).

Positive punishment adds something to the situation to decrease the chance of the behaviour being exhibited again (for example, verbally growling at a dog to make it stop jumping up).

Negative punishment removes something from the situation to decrease the chance of the behaviour being exhibited again (for example, walking away from a dog who jumps up).

Most modern trainers say that they use "positive training methods", which is a different meaning of the word "positive" from that in operant conditioning. "Positive training methods" generally means preferring the use of reward-based training to increase good behavior over that of physical punishment to decrease bad behavior. However, a good trainer understands all four methods, whether or not they can put operant-conditioning terminology to them, and applies them as appropriate for the dog, the breed, the handler, and the situation.

Rewards

Positive reinforcers can be anything that the dog finds rewarding - special food treats, the chance to play with a tug toy, social interaction with other dogs, or the owner's attention. The more rewarding a dog finds a particular reinforcer, the more work he will be prepared to do in order to obtain the reinforcer.

It is important that the dog is not "bribed" to perform. In dog training, the term "bribery" means that the dog is aware of the presence of the reward before he is asked to complete the command. The risk with bribery is that the dog will refuse to comply with commands when he cannot see the reward, since he knows from experience that he will only be rewarded when he can see the reward. Experienced trainers will hide the reward from the dog, and only produce the reward once the dog has already complied with the command. The goal is to produce a dog who will perform even on occasions that the handler has no reward to offer, since the dog's training has taught him that the handler may have a reward even if the dog cannot see it.

Some trainers go through a process of teaching a puppy to strongly desire a particular toy, in order to make the toy a more powerful positive reinforcer for good behaviour. This process is called "building prey drive", and is commonly used in the training of Narcotics Detection and Police Service dogs. The goal is to produce a dog who will work independently for long periods of time, in the hopes of earning access to its special toy reward.

Positive punishment is probably the consequence that is least used by modern dog trainers, as it must be used very carefully. A dog is generally only given this type of punishment if it is willfully disobeying the owner. Punishing a dog who does not understand what is being asked of him is not only unfair to the dog, but can make the dog a fearful or unwilling worker.

Punishments are administered only as appropriate for the dog's personality, age, and experience. A sharp "No" works for many dogs, but some dogs even show signs of fear or anxiety with harsh verbal corrections. On the other hand, certain dogs with 'harder' temperaments may ignore a verbal reprimand, and may need a physical punishment such as a quick tug on a training collar. Trainers generally advise keeping hand contact with the dog to positive interactions; if hands are used to threaten or hurt, some dogs may begin to behave defensively when stroked or handled.

Punishment should only be used if the dog performs something unwanted and you catch the dog in the act or within a very short time of it. A dog who ate the remote in the morning, will not understand why it is being punished at night. Punishment avoidance techniques can be used to control the dog's behavior while unsupervised.

Avoiding punishment

Keeping a puppy on a leash in challenging situations or in his crate or pen when not closely supervised prevents the puppy from getting into situations that might otherwise invite an owner's harsh reaction (such as chewing up a favorite pair of shoes).

It is easy for them to disregard commands amongst the babble.

To reinforce the command, the dog always gets some kind of reward or reinforcement (praise and usually a treat or toy) when it performs the action correctly. This helps the dog to understand that he has done a good thing. It is important not to give treats every time, because the dog will only learn to complete a command when you have a treat in hand and will not be reliable when no treat is present.

Note that not all dogs are trained to voice command. Many working breeds of dog are not trained to a voice command at all; they are taught to obey a combination of whistles and hand signals. Deaf dogs are perfectly capable of learning to obey visual signals alone. Many obedience classes teach hand signals for common commands in addition to voice signals; these signals can be useful in quiet situations, at a distance, and in advanced obedience competitions.

The specific command words are not important, although common words in English include sit, down, come, and stay. Short, clear words that are easily understood by other humans are generally recommended; that way, people will understand what a handler is telling his dog to do and other handlers have a good chance of controlling someone else's dog if necessary. In fact, dogs can learn commands in any language or other communications medium, including whistles, mouth sounds, hand gestures, and so forth.

Training tips

Many dog owners teach their dogs tricks. This serves several purposes: it develops a stronger relationship between the dog and human, it provides entertainment, and it engages the dog's mind, which can help to alleviate problems caused by boredom. For example, the shake hands trick involves the dog raising its paw and placing it into an outstretched hand. An example of a useful trick is teaching a dog to ring a bell to go outside. This helps prevent the stress placed on an owner when trying to recognize whether the dog needs to relieve itself. For more information, see clicker training or bridge and target training.

Training Tools

Choke Collar: The choke collar is a length of material (most often chain links) with a large circular ring on either end. The chain is slid through one of these rings and it is slid over the dog's head. When the dog displays an undesirable behavior the collar is "jerked" or "checked." This is primarily used in traditional dog training.

Prong (or Pinch) Collar: The prong collar is made of metal links that fit together by connecting through long teeth that point inward toward the dog's neck. A section of this collar is made of a loop of chain links that tighten the collar when pulled, thus creating a harsh poking sensation on the dog's neck. This collar is mainly used in traditional dog training.

Electronic Collars: These collars include the electronic shock, Citronella, and audio collars. These are electronic collars that are generally controlled via remote. The shock collar sends an electronic shock to the dog's neck at the will of the trainer. The intensity of the shock can usually be changed from very slight to a more extreme sensation. The Citronella and audio collars are similar except the Citronella collar sprays an odor that most dogs find offensive and the audio collar emits a sound so high pitched that humans cannot hear it and most dogs do not like the sound. These collars are most often employed in traditional dog training. (See bellow for more details.)

Martingale Collar: The martingale collar is a collar that has only a section on it that will tighten when pulled. This is different from the choke collar that will tighten indefinitely.

Treat: The treat is anything food given to your dog, that your dog likes, while training is being done. This is often the primary tool for those doing positive reinforcement training.

Clicker: The clicker is a plastic box with a metal tongue inside of it. When the tongue is depressed and then released, a "clicking" noise is made. This tool is a way of marking a behavior as a desirable one and is generally used in positive reinforcement dog training.

Head Collar: The head collar is very similar in idea and structure to a halter on a horse. The theory behind it is that if you have control of the head, you have control of the body. The head collar generally consists of two loops. One loop goes behind the ears and the other goes over the dog's nose and hey meet somewhere below the dog's jaw. This tool will not teach the dog to not pull on the leash, but rather make it more difficult for the dog to do so while it is wearing the head collar. This tool is usually employed during positive reinforcement training.

No Pull Harness: The no-pull harness, like any harness is worn on the body of the animal. The no-pull harness can be made several different ways. The focus here will not be put on the construction of the harness but on the purpose behind it. The no-pull harness differs significantly from the standard harness in one very fundamental way; it stops the pulling (or makes it harder for the dog to pull) where as the standard harness facilitates pulling and actually allows the dog to pull harder because it more evenly distributes the weight the dog is pulling over it's back and shoulders, in comparison to the standard neck collar that concentrates all of the weight on the dog's neck. The no-pull harness will restrict the movement of the dog's body when the dog pulls on the leash. Like the head collar, the no pull harness does not teach the dog from pulling on the leash; it only makes it harder for the dog to pull while the dog is wearing the harness. This harness is generally used during positive reinforcement training.

Electronic training

One of the most controversial training methods involves using a remote collar, otherwise known as a "shock collar". Despite the name, no manufacturer refers to their product as a "shock collar". This term is used almost primarily by the detractors of the tool. It is commonly referred to as a "remote training collar", or "remote dog training", as in the ability to communicate remotely with a dog. This tool was once used primarily as a corrective device only, but is no longer the case.

As with other training methods, whether this tool is cruel or humane generally depends on the user. Modern remote collars have many different settings, ranging from so low that it is difficult to perceive the sensation at all, to uncomfortably or even painfully high. Which settings are used depends on the goal of the trainer for the particular dog. Human perception varies greatly in individuals, so is very difficult if not impossible to monitor proper level usage, as would be the same for standardizing a proper 'leash tug'. These remote electronic collars are very similar to a chiropractors 'tens unit', which are used to aid pain, and not cause it.

There are several different ways to use a remote collar in training, depending on the goal of the exercise. The most common method is to use the collar as an operant conditioning tool to encourage rapid and reliable response to commands the dog has already learned, especially when the trainer is a substantial distance away from the dog. The collar is set at a fairly low level. When the command is given, the collar button is pressed either immediately or after a very short delay. As soon as the dog completes the command, the collar button is released. From the dog's perspective, the dog's own actions (performing the command or ignoring the command) turn the collar on and off. Some believe that once a dog forms negative associations with the training process itself, any further progress becomes quite difficult, however problem solving and a trainers skill level and knowledge, are very appropriate in any form of dog training.

The collar can also be used as a classical conditioningtool. By pairing the aversive stimulus with another stimulus, a conditioned aversive stimulus is formed. The collar can also be used by pairing positive stimulus such as food, or reward as well.

Remote collars can also be used for other purposes besides normal behavior modification. Some trainers use very low settings as a way of getting the attention of deaf dogs, when the dog is at a distance or not facing the handler. In this case, the stimulation is not used as a punishment to modify behavior, but as a substitute for verbally calling the dog's name. Many newer collars include a vibrate feature (like a cell phone vibrator) or an audio pager which can be used for this purpose. These features can be classically associated with the "come" command so the dog can be called back to the handler from a great distance without verbal communication.

Remote collar training is especially popular for working dogs involved in retrieving, search and rescue, and other activities where the dog is off-leash and far from the handler. The collar is very useful in these circumstances because it can completely replace the use of a leash in the training process, allowing the handler to work from a long distance while still delivering instant feedback to the dog. This type of long-distance obedience training is normally quite difficult to achieve, but becomes much easier with the collar. The collar can also function as an "emergency stop button" for an off-leash working dog who may be tempted to wander into traffic, cacti, skunks, or other danger -- though this is purely a backup and should not be relied upon as a substitute for solid obedience training.

Recommended Training Methods

The following are recommended principles to achieve successful dog training.

• All dog training must be founded upon educating the dog, that is, developing instincts and drawing out accidental and acquired habits.
  
  
• Situations and contacts must be interpreted entirely from the dog's reactions and abilities, and not the human's.
  
  
• The dog is not to be fooled. It has a sense of humiliation as well as a sense of pride. If the dog has been taught to do certain acts, do not give it the command and then trifle with it. At all times you must let the dog see what you are doing. Always is the dog to understand that when you say certain things, it is to do certain things.
  
  
• Success must be at the completion of an act of training. The dog is to understand that at the end, a certain thing will take place. For instance, if it is tracking, it must find the person tracked.
  
  
• Commands always should be given in the same words and with the same tone of voice and speed of speaking.
  
  
• Anticipate the dog's actions. Think ahead of time and give your command before the dog acts or moves.
  
  
• If the dog goes one step wrongly, do not repeat this step but return at the beginning, for the dog must be taught to consider only successful acts in their entirety.
  
  
• Reward or punishment should follow quickly after every act. To punish a dog at any other time than instantly after the wrong act is cruelty rather than a part of training, for the dog does not connect the punishment to the act.
  
  
• The dog has a single-track mind. Teach one specific thing at a time. This does not mean that a training period cannot include a half-dozen different tasks.
  
  
• Give the dog a moment's time for carrying out your command. To demand instant obedience is to confuse the dog.
  
  
• Have patience. The dog is not a human being.
  
  
• Develop a bond. All future training depends upon this.
  
  
• Remember that a dog cannot ask questions, neither can it understand all you say. It knows only the words, the commands and the names you teach it.
  
  
• The success of a handler depends on being able to make a dog understand what it has to do and then to instill that into its brain until it becomes instinctive.
  
  
• Always use kindness.
  
  
• Be decisive, firm, and most of all, be sure that you know exactly what you want and how it should be done.
  
  
• Never try to teach a dog anything until you yourself have a thorough knowledge of how to teach it, and a clear mental picture of each stage.
  
  
• As far as possible, always have your dog with you. You cannot train it all the time, but it will become accustomed to your actions, words, and surroundings which will help to make the training easier.
  
  
• Never allow other people to pet and fuss over your dog unnecessarily. You are the dog's handler and it must look to you for everything.
  
  
• Your first thought is your dog.
  
  
• You must always finish a training period on a good note. Never leave off if the dog has done something wrong. Correction is essential.
  
  
• Never put your dog away for the night with a cross word. End the training period on a happy note and see that the dog has mastered the obstacle - and knows that it has done so - before you "good night".
  
  
• Do not punish the dog while you are angry or lack control of yourself.
  
  
• Do not lose your temper while training the dog. If you do, the dog will lose some of its respect for you.
  
  
• Do not chase the dog to catch it; it must come to you or follow after you.
  
  
• Do not coax the dog to you and then turn upon it with punishment. You will regret the deception.
  
  
• Do not nag the dog; do not give orders to it constantly; do not pester it with your shoutings.
  
  
• Do not punish the dog for failure to obey unless you are certain that it understood fully what you commanded.
  
  
• Do not praise the dog for doing a certain act, then at a later time, scold it for doing the same act.
  
  
• Do not permit anyone to give commands to the dog while you are training it.
  

Basic Obedience Training usually refers to the training of a dog and the term is most commonly used in that context. Obedience training ranges from very basic training, such as teaching the dog to reliably respond to basic commands such as "sit", "down", "come", and "stay", to high level competition within clubs such as the American Kennel Club and the Canadian Kennel Club, where additional commands, accuracy and performance are scored and judged.

Obedience implies compliance with the direction or command given by the handler. For a dog to be considered obedient rather than simply trained in obedience, it must respond reliably each time the command is given, by what is commonly known as its handler. A dog can go through Obedience training and not be obedient. If a dog is referred to as being Obedience Trained it should comply immediately with every command its handler gives. In the strictest sense an Obedience trained dog is an obedient dog.

Training a dog in obedience can be an ongoing and lengthy process depending on the dog, the methods used, and the skill and understanding of both the trainer and the handler. The level of obedience the handler wishes to achieve with the dog is also a major factor in the time involved, as is the commitment to training by the handler.

Obedience training is often a prerequisite for or component of other training.

The actual training of the dog can be done by anyone, the trainer, owner, or a friend. Typically the individual who is caring for and living with the dog participates and trains the dog, as they will be the one who will be giving the commands. The relationship and trust between the dog and handler are important for success.

Basic or beginner's obedience is typically a short course ranging from six to ten weeks, where it is demonstrated to the handler how to communicate with and train the dog in a few simple commands. With most methods the dog is trained one command at a time. Though there may or may not be a specific word attached to it, walking properly on a leash, or leash control, is often the first training required prior to learning other commands.

Command

The specific command word is not important, but consistency in usage is. There are certain commands that are accepted as standard and commonly used.

Basic commands

• Sit: The dog is in a sitting position.
  
• Down: A dog is typically down when its elbows (front feet) and hocks (rear legs) are touching the ground or floor.
  
• Heel: The dog's head or shoulder is parallel to the handler's leg on either the right or left side of the handler. The side chosen should remain consistent.
  
• Come or Here: (referred to as the recall) "Call your dog" equals "come" or "here".
  
• Stay: The dog must remain in the position (sit, down, stand) and location under which the command was given until it is released by the handler
  

Advanced commands

• Stop - a dog that will simply stop whatever it is doing and lie down on command no matter how far it is from its keeper is a dog that can be taken anywhere. Some handlers use the German word Platz (related to "place", i.e. stay in position) for this action.
  
• Back up - keepers of large dogs or dogs with a reputation for aggressiveness can make strangers more comfortable by teaching the dog to back up on command.
  
• Growl - the inverse of backing up. Some owners teach non-aggressive dogs to growl on a subtle command - not the word growl, usually a small hand gesture - as a way of letting strangers know that you and your dog value being left alone.
  
• Steady - keep near by. The dog can walk free, but not dash off. Train to this command with a long leash, calling out Steady when the leash is taut. Continue off leash.
  
• Stand - dog stands still. Train from lying-down position by lifting under belly while repeating command. Useful for grooming. Many dogs are groomed frequently and need to stand quietly during the process.
  
• Go to bed, kennel, or get in: Directs the dog to go to its bed or its crate and to remain there until released. The dog has freedom of movement in that location to stand up, turn around, or lie down, unlike when placed in a Stay. Useful to keep a dog out from underfoot and safe in a busy or complicated situation.
  
• Drop or drop it: Dogs pick up all sorts of things, some of which they shouldn't have. A dog that drops anything on command, no matter how attractive (and "attractive" to a dog can be "rotten and smelly" to a human), is a dog under control that the owner can prevent from eating dangerous items or from destroying valued personal property.
  
• Leave it: An adjunct to Drop, directing the dog to not touch an item. Also useful before the dog has picked anything up. Leave it is also used in conjunction with Take it.
  
• Take it: The dog leaves a desired object, such as a toy or treat, untouched until given this command. This can protect an owner's, visitor's, or child's fingers.
  
• Give: The dog has an object in its mouth and "gives" it to its owner by releasing the object into the owner's hand. Object of choice in training is usually a light-weight dumbell or a glove. This is useful for when your dog has one of your belongings and you want it back before the dog hides it or chews it up.
  

Tools

Collars:
Flat collars are commonly used in clicker training and other non-correction-based training methods. They are typically made of nylon or leather, and fasten with a buckle or quick-release connection.

Correction collars include slip collars, prong collars, and occasionally electronic or "E" collars.

Slip collars (commonly called choke chains or choke collars) are made of metal links or rolled material such as nylon or leather. A metal ring is at each end. Historically, slip collars have been used as a matter of course, and some trainers still recommend them for basic training on any dog. Correctly used, the collar should make a quick popping or zipping sound to startle the dog and then be quickly released.

Prong collars (also called pinch collars) are made of metal links which have prongs on the inside of the collar. The use of these collars is prohibited in some countries; however, it is thought that they may actually be less damaging than a slip collar as they apply more even pressure around the dog's neck.

E-collars have a receiver in the collar. An electrical stimulation or signal is transmitted by the handler remotely, at varying degrees of intensity.

Leash: The leash is used to connect the dog to the handler. They may be made of any material such as nylon or leather. A six foot length is commonly used in training classes.

Clicker: Some trainers use a small device which makes a sharp, distinct sound to mark a desired behavior. (See clicker training for a more detailed discussion of this methodology.)

Level of Obedience

• Novice (Basic or companion)
  
• Open (Intermediate)
  
• Utility (Advanced)
  

Competitive obedience

For dog owners who enjoy competition and relish the opportunity to work as a highly tuned team with their dogs, competitive obedience trials are available. Dogs can earn obedience titles, including an obedience championship.

In competition, merely sitting, lying down, or walking on a leash are insufficient. The dog and handler must perform the activities off leash and in a highly stylized and carefully defined manner. For example, on a recall, the dog must come directly to the handler, without sniffing or veering to one side, and must sit straight in front of the handler, not at an angle or off to one side or the other. Training for obedience competitions builds on basic obedience training.

The United Kennel Club (UKC), the Australian National Kennel Council (AKC), the American Kennel Club (AKC) and the Australian Shepherd Dog Club of American (ASCA) are some of the organizations which offer titles in Competition Obedience.

Obedience for Other Purposes

There are many reasons for training dogs beyond the level required for basic companionship. For example, assistance dogs must obey their "sit" and "down" commands perfectly at all times, but they do not have to conform to the rigid rules of competitive obedience.

Dogs competing in dog sports, such as flyball, agility or Schutzhund, must be trusted in an open field, off leash and surrounded by other people, dogs, hot dogs, and flying discs. This requires more focused attention on the owner and a better recall than that found in most household companion dogs, but again it can be a different kind of training than that required for formal obedience.

Tip 1 : House training your dog / House training tips for a new puppy

When a new puppy arrives in the house, it's an exciting time for everyone. In order for the homecoming to proceed as smoothly as possible, it's a good idea to spend a little bit of time in preparation.

One of the major challenges of dog ownership (particularly for first-time owners) is the issue of house training. If you equip yourself with some rudimentary knowledge and a positive attitude, though, it's a lot easier than most people make it out to be.

The New Arrival

As soon as you bring the puppy home, take her outside. The excitement of the car journey coupled with the unfamiliar faces, sights, and sounds will have her needing to go anyway - and if you can orchestrate her first toilet break so that it occurs outside, instead of inside, then so much the better. And not just from the perspective of short-term hygiene, either - the more your puppy relieves herself inside, the more likely she is to do it again.

The homecoming is a great opportunity for you to set a precedent for toilet behavior!

- Take her to your designated toilet area, and put her down on the grass.

- Wait while she sniffs around - refrain from petting her or playing with her just yet, because you don't want her to forge an association between this area and games. She has to learn that this part of the yard is for toilet breaks only.

- When she begins to relieve herself, say the phrase you want her to associate with toilet breaks: "Go pee" or "potty time" or whatever works for you. It's best if that phrase is short and easily recognizable - and use the same voice inflection each time, too (so that your dog can easily memorize the meaning of the phrase.)

- When she's done, make a big fuss over her: shower her in praise and affection, and give her a little treat.

When you take her inside the house, the house training regime you've decided upon should start immediately.

As far as house training goes, crate training is generally accepted to be the most effective and efficient means of house training a puppy in a short space of time.

What is crate training?

Crate-training is essentially the use of a small indoor kennel (the crate) to confine your young puppy when you're not actively supervising her.

How does it work?

Crate training is based on all dogs' inherent dislike of soiling the area where they sleep. Because you're restricting your puppy's movement to her sleeping space, she'll instinctively "hold it in" until she's let out of the crate (provided you don't leave her in there too long, of course!)

This is why it's important that the crate is sized properly: if it's too big, she'll be able to use one end as a bed and one end as a toilet, which defeats the whole purpose!

How do I choose a crate?

As a general guideline, it's more cost-effective for you to choose a crate that's big enough for her to grow into. It should be big enough for the adult dog to stand up comfortably without crouching, turn around in, and stretch out - but no bigger (so that she doesn't choose one part as her bed, and one part as her toilet!)

Because the adult dog is likely to be considerably larger than the puppy, it'll most likely be necessary for you to use a barrier to reduce the internal size of the crate. A wire grille or board will do just fine.

Alternatively, you can use a cheap crate (or even make one yourself) and replace it with a larger model as your puppy grows.

Using the crate for house training

Crate training works like this: your puppy is in that crate at all times unless she's sleeping, eating, outside with you going to the toilet, or being played with (active supervision.)

You'll need to be consistent, or else it won't work: you can't let your puppy wander off through the house unless you're focusing your complete attention on her.

If you allow her access to the house before she's thoroughly house trained, you're basically encouraging her to relieve herself inside - and remember, each time she does this, it'll be easier for her to do it again (and again %u2026 and again %u2026)

Sample schedule of a morning's crate training

7am: Wake up. Puppy comes outside with you for a toilet break.
7.25: Breakfast time.
7.45: Back outside for another toilet break (accompanied by you, of course.)
7.50 - 8.45: Play-time! Puppy is out of the crate being actively played with, cuddled, etc.
8.45: Outside for another toilet break.
8.50 - 11: Puppy goes back in the crate for a nap
11 am: Puppy comes outside with you for a toilet break.
11.05 - 12.30: Playtime! Puppy is out of the crate being played with and petted.
12:30: Lunch time.
12.45: Puppy comes outside with you for a toilet break.
1 - 3.30: Puppy goes back in the crate for a nap.

%u2026 and so on throughout the day.

Crate training generally takes one to two months (depending on the breed of your dog and how much time you spend on the training process.) As the puppy grows older, you can begin to reduce the amount of time spent in the crate - but beware of doing this too soon!

Other crate training rules

- Your puppy probably won't be too happy to go in the crate the first couple of times she uses it. She wants to be outside, being showered with affection and attention, and hanging out with you (of course!) But it really is for her own good - in a surprisingly short time, she'll come to accept the crate as her own personal haven where she can go to relax and get a couple hours' uninterrupted sleep. It's important to persevere: do not respond to any whining or crying.

- The best place for the crate to be is the hub of the household: usually the den or the kitchen, anywhere where people tend to congregate. Just because she's in the crate doesn't mean she can't still feel like part of the household; it's important for her not to feel isolated or excluded.

- The crate should be a welcoming, inviting place for her to go. Lay a couple of thick blankets or towels on the floor, and place a few toys and a chew or two inside it as well. The door should be invitingly open at all times (unless she's in there, of course, in which case it should be securely shut.)

Some toilet facts about puppies that will come in handy

- Puppies' bladders and bowels are so small and weak that they have only a very small window of opportunity between knowing that they need to go, and having that need become an immediate reality. Because of this, it's imperative that you take her outside as soon as she wakes up (she'll let you know she needs to go out by pawing the door and whining), and within ten minutes of eating or playing.

- Behaviors that indicate she needs to go outside include sniffing the ground and circling. Again, because she's only little, she won't exhibit these warning signs for very long - so as soon as she starts, take her out straight away. Better an unnecessary trip to the yard than an unnecessary wet patch (or pile) on the carpet!

- The maximum amount of time that a puppy can be crated at one time is figured out using the following equation: her age in months, plus one. So, a three-month old puppy can be crated for a maximum of four hours. However, this is likely to be physically pretty uncomfortable for her (not to mention hard on her emotionally and psychologically: it's tough being cramped up with nothing to do), so you should really take her out at least once every two hours during the day. If she's sleeping, of course, just let her sleep until she wakes up naturally.

For a more indepth look at house training, as well as a great deal of useful information on canine behavioral problems and the most effective training techniques, check out The Ultimate House Training Guide. It's the complete dog-house-training guide..

You can visit the The Ultimate House Training Guide site by clicking on this link:
*http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dog-health/?aff=st388694&type=nohop




The Ultimate Dog House Training Guide

Tip2: Common house training problems

House training is one of the areas of dog ownership that's most subject to misunderstanding, confusion, and just plain dread!

Today's newsletter is going to deal with two of the most common problems surrounding the issue of house training:

- Submissive/excited urination

- Scent marking

Common house training problem #1: Submissive / excited urination

What is it?

A 'submissive urinator' is a dog that urinates on the floor and himself (and sometimes on you and any guests you may have!) in situations of extreme excitement or stress - like when you return home at the end of the day, or when he's being told off.

Why does it happen?

Puppies are the usual candidates for submissive/excited urination, but it's not uncommon to see adult dogs with the problem as well: usually, these are highly sensitive and timid dogs, and/or ones from a shelter/with a history of abuse (often these last two go hand-in-hand.)

When does it happen?
Situations when an excited/fearful dog is likely to urinate:
- Greeting time after a prolonged absence
- Play time
- The arrival of guests
- Stressful situations at home, eg arguments
- During a correction (you're telling him off)
- Sudden loud noises (thunder, fireworks)

What can I do about it?

Fortunately, it's not difficult to "cure" your dog of his submissive/excited urination.

First of all, you should take him to the vet to make sure there's no medical reason for the issue (like diabetes or a bladder infection.)

Next, it's time to take control of the problem:

- Limit his intake of water to help him control his bladder more effectively. Don't restrict his water intake over a prolonged period of time, but if you know there's a situation coming which would normally result in urination - for example, you have guests coming over, or are planning on a play session soon - take his water bowl away for a period of time (maybe half an hour to an hour) before the event.

- When greeting your dog, keep it calm and mellow. The more excited he is, the harder it is for him to control his bladder, so don't encourage him to get worked up: ignore him for the first few moments, or give him a neutral "hello", a quick pat, and then go about making yourself at home.

- It's important that you DO NOT punish or harshly correct your dog for this behavior. It's not something that he can easily control, and he's certainly not doing it on purpose. When you catch him in the act, you can interrupt him (a firm "No!" followed by praise when he stops should suffice) but don't punish him. Keep your cool, and try to be sympathetic: he doesn't mean to do it, after all!

- If he urinates out of fear (submissiveness) when scolding him for another offense, try to take the stress levels down a notch by keeping a firm, authoritative, but not angry tone. Remember, you're dealing with a sensitive, highly-strung dog: if you get angry or worry him further, the problem will worsen.

Comon house training problem #2: Scent marking

Scent marking - where a dog "marks" his or her territory with urine - is technically not actually a house training problem, since it's based on issues of dominance and territoriality rather than insufficient house training (a dog can be perfectly house trained but still mark inside the house.)

However, because - since the problem centers around the unwanted presence of urine in the house - it seems logical, in a way, to link this problem with house training: and since this is one of the most widespread problems among dog owners, we thought it worthwhile to include some practical advice.

Scent marking and lack of house training: how to differentiate between the two

Your dog's probably scent marking, rather than genuinely relieving himself, if:

- The amount of urine produced is relatively small, and tends to be directed against vertical surfaces (walls, doors, etc)

- He's male, unneutered, and at least five or six months old. Unneutered dogs are much more territorial than neutered ones -if you have an unneutered dog in the house, you can pretty much expect a certain amount of scent marking. (Unspayed females also mark, but it's less common; spayed and neutered dogs can also exhibit marking behavior, but it's relatively infrequent)

- It makes little difference how often he's taken outside for a toilet break

- He frequently targets items that are new to the house: new possessions, guest clothing/footwear, etc

- You live in a multi-dog household and there is conflict between two or more of the dogs

- There are other, unneutered or unspayed pets in the house

What to do about the problem?

First things first: spay or neuter your dog(s) as soon as you possibly can. If you can do this early enough - ideally, at six months of age - this often halts marking altogether; but if your dog's been marking for a prolonged period of time, he or she may continue to do so after being spayed or neutered, since a pattern of behavior will have been established.

Clean soiled areas thoroughly. Use a non-ammonia based cleaner (because it smells just like pee) and stay away from vinegar too (it smells similar to pee.) Oxi-Clean mixed with warm water is particularly effective; there are also plenty of commercial cleaners designed specifically to lift pet stains and odors, which you can buy from pet stores and some supermarkets.

Because dogs tend to re-mark the same places, you'll need to redefine the places that you know he's marked to prevent repeat offending.

You can do this in a number of ways:

- Feed him next to or on top of the spot
- Play with him there
- Groom him there
- Put his bed over or next to it
- Spend time there yourself: hang out with a book or sit down and work

If there is rivalry between dogs in the household, you'll need to take steps to resolve it. Any conflict is likely to be hierarchical in nature (a "power struggle"), which means that all you have to do to stop the tension is pay attention to which dog seems to be more dominant than the other one (which one eats first, gets the toys he/she wants, "stares down" another dog), and reinforce this position.

How to do this: feed the dominant dog first. Pet him/her first. Give him/her a toy before anyone else gets one. This makes it clear to all dogs in the house which one really is the dominant dog - and when this hierarchy's been recognizably established, territorial/dominant behaviors like scent marking often vanish overnight.

For more information on how to successfully house train your dog (as well as a whole bunch of in-depth information on house training troubleshooting and related issues) you'll probably want to check out The Ultimate House Training Guide.

It's the complete dog-house-training guide. The Ultimate House Training Guide and comes highly recommended.

You can visit the The Ultimate House Training Guide site by clicking on this link:
*http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dog-health/?aff=st388694&type=nohop




The Ultimate Dog House Training Guide

Book 1: Cesar's Way: The Natural, Everyday Guide to Understanding and Correcting Common Dog Problems
by Cesar Millan and Melissa Jo Peltier (Book - Paperback)



Book 2: The Everything Dog Training and Tricks Book
by Gerilyn J. Bielakiewicz, Bethany Brown, and Christel A. Shea (Book - Paperback)



Book 3: The Loved Dog: The Playful, Nonaggressive Way to Teach Your Dog Good Behavior
by Tamar Geller and Andrea Cagan (Book - Hardcover)



Book 4: Dog Training For Dummies (For Dummies (Pets))
by Jack Volhard and Wendy Volhard (Book - Paperback)



Book 5: 101 Dog Tricks: Step by Step Activities to Engage, Challenge, and Bond with Your Dog
by Kyra Sundance and Chalcy (Book - Paperback)



Book 6: The Only Dog Training Book You Will Ever Need: From Avoiding Accidents to Banishing Barking, the Basics for Raising a Well-Behaved Dog
by Gerilyn J. Bielakiewicz and Andrea Mattei (Book - Paperback)

Book 7: The Power of Positive Dog Training
by Pat Miller and Jean Donaldson (Book - Paperback)



Book 8: Training Dogs the Aussie Way
by Danny Wilson, Sylvia Wilson, Andrew Brooke, and Liam Crowe (Book - Paperback)



Book 9: Search and Rescue Dogs: Training the K-9 Hero, Second Edition
by American Rescue Dog Association (Book - Paperback)



Book 10: The Ultimate Guide to Bird Dog Training: A Realistic Approach to Training Close-Working Gun Dogs for Tight Cover Conditions
by Jerome B. Robinson (Book - Paperback)



Book 11: Little Dogs: Training Your Pint-Sized Companion
by Deborah Wood (Book - Paperback)

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