Time-lapse Tutorial Part 1: Introduction

1. Introduction and Planning
2. Equipment
3. Walkthrough
4. Post-processing, Presentation, and Distribution

I would like to thank Brian for his help in putting together this tutorial.

Simply put, some subjects just move too slowly to be captured with standard video or film techniques. A flower may take hours or days to open, grass takes weeks to grow, etc. Any subject that takes over an hour to complete it's desired action is a great candidate for photo time-lapse. Additionally, using high resolution still images to compose a (relatively) low resolution video not only assures amazing image quality, but also allows for seemingly impossible effects such as pans or zooms (with appropriate software).

Other slightly faster moving subjects can also be sped-up with video editing software. Traffic and crowds of people can take on a frenzied, electric quality in high-speed. These subjects, however are often more easily captured with a standard video or film camera. Either the camera can speed-up the footage (under-cranking), or the video can be sped-up in any capable video editing software. I won't go any further with this here, except to mention that many subjects can be shot using either technique. I have used still images to create traffic and cloudscape time-lapses even though I could have just as easily used a video camera. Sometimes it just comes down to what you have available.

I've already mentioned a few of the subjects you may want to consider for a time-lapse project, but your imagination is the only limit. No matter what you decide, careful planning and a little research at this stage is critical. Take a few moments to consider what changes in your subject you want to record.

How long will they take?

Will there be a great change in the size of the subject?

Will the subject move (especially towards or away from the camera) during the shot?

Does the subject have any special requirements that need to be met during the entire time you intend to be shooting (plants may need light, water, etc.)?

How will you meet these requirements without disturbing the subject or any of the equipment?

Next, consider where you will be shooting. If outdoors, first make sure both you, your camera and your tripod are in a safe place. (No shot is worth getting hurt, robbed, or worse. Remember that you will need to stay in one place for a while.) Will there be any unwanted people, animals, or vehicles moving through your shot? Are there any natural conditions which may disturb your shot (strong wind, rain, tides...)?

Indoors you can control many of these factors, but there are additional considerations.

Will the shot need special lighting?

Will the area be safe from kids, toys, pets, house mates %u2026 you %u2026 throughout the shot?

Will the ambient light in the area change during the shot? (usually, yes)

How can this be prevented? (covering windows, keeping computer monitors and TV's out of the room, or at least covered...)

Is the floor stable?
The last one I discovered after several shots were ruined by camera (or subject) shake because I was shooting on the third floor of an older wood frame house!

You need to do as much planning as possible, because once you start shooting, you will not be able to touch anything until the shot is complete. This may mean finding a way to maintain a plant without watering it for weeks, or simply making sure your tripod doesn't get knocked over while shooting a cloudscape.




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