Tomato Growing Secrets for Strong Plants and Juicy Fruit

How to Grow Juicy Tasty Tomatoes

"Last year I picked 10 pounds from my main plant. After following your advice, I doubled that this year! I've always prepared the soil before planting, but I never used proper fertilizer techniques like you explained. I found your fertilizing tips extraordinary - I never knew about root dipping, which made my plants much bigger. With all our drought problems, watering correctly was crucial. Thanks - I can't wait 'till next year!" - Geoff King, Melbourne, Australia

"I planted my very first tomatoes early this spring here in Southeast Texas and had a surprising number of very good tomatoes from 7 different plants. Your book has already noted several things I did wrong on my first go at growing this very tasty crop and I certainly will do a few things different this time."
Bob Ware, Texas, USA

"After growing them your way, our plant is 4 TIMES the size of our normal plant. Myself and a friend will now be growing tomatoes commercially next year for public sale. This is all because we now fully understand everything to do with the life cycle of the tomato. From trials that we've conducted using your book we can now produce a far better tomato than what is currently sold here by commercial growers." - Brett Scott

How to Choose Healthy Nursery Tomato Plants

Millions of people each year flock to the nursery in an effort to jump start their tomato growing season. That's because we know that 'growing our own' produces much juicier, tastier, tomatoes than the baseball-shaped shipping-crate tomatoes at our local market.

Nursery plants are started from seed under controlled greenhouse conditions and sold by the grower when they reach a certain size. Prestarted plants are a quicker and simpler alternative to starting your own tomatoes from seed, as this can be the most demanding part of the growing process.

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There are several factors you should be aware of when selecting healthy tomato plants for purchase. Potential problems such as improper watering, frost damage, tomato diseases, insect pests, rough handling, and others should be avoided at all costs. Ensure plants have a heatlhy, green, canopy of foilage that is not wilting, yellowing, very light colored with dark viens, brown along the edges, or otherwise dying. While inspecting foilage, look for broken stems and insect activity on the plant or in the soil.

In addition to checking for problems, you should try to find plants that are not flowering or bearing fruit. Transplanting tomatoes to a new environment puts a significant demand on them as they adapt to the changes, and demand will be increased by buds and especially fruit. In the event that your choices are limited to those plants already in bloom, sometimes buds can be pinched off to allow for further main plant growth. It is better to avoid blooming plants than to pinch existing buds for best growth, however, and this action will not work with developing fruit.

If you are buying your plants during the start of growing season, you will have the best selection available soon after the first shipments of live plants arrive. Good stock will sell fast and remaining stock may be subject to poor care by the seller, so shop as early as as you can.

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Nitrogen Deficiency - Not Enough

Nitrogen is one of the basic elements that a plant cannot do without. It is the building block for proteins and is also used in chlorophyll - the green matter in plants where photosynthesis occurs.

A shortage of nitrogen shows up as a yellowing of lower leaves which progresses upwards whilst lower leaves die - if not treated. Plants grow slowly, new leaves are small, thin and may have purple veins.

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Stems are hard and thick and eventually brown off and dry off. Flower buds turn yellow and drop, and the fruit is reduced in size and number and may be pale green (instead of dark green) before ripening.

Nitrogen Excess - To Much

Excess of application is more common than deficiency. Your plants will rapidly grow into quite bushy plants with many bright, light green leaves. You won't get many flowers and consequently little fruit. Those fruit that are set are poor quality and soft, and very prone to diseases.

Phosphorus Deficiency - Not Enough

Phosphorus is another basic element required by plants in large quantities. It is used at all growth stages, but particularly early in the plant's life. It is necessary for cell division, growth and root and shoot development.

Deficiencies usually occur early in the growing season when the soil is still cool. Phosphorus is abundant in many soils but may be unavailable to the plant when the soil is too cold, so it's best not to plant tomatoes too early in the season. Once soil temperatures rise, the problem usually corrects itself.

Symptoms show up as plants with very dark green leaves which may have an inter-veinal purple colouration on the backs of leaves. Stems are thin, hard and fibrousandthefruitispalein colour. Plants are stunted and the fruit set is delayed and usually the yield will be poor. Symptoms usually show up in the old leaves first.

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