My Top 10 Sights In Tokyo

You might have heard that the Japanese society is restrained and collectivist, but once you've experienced Yoyogi Park on a Sunday (a good time to be there is 12:00-16:00), I can assure you that you will realize that there is more to life in Tokyo than that boring stereotype of a Japanese salaryman. Yoyogi Park provides a place for individual expression beyond what can be found in many western societies.

Access: The park is a short walk from both Shibuya (from the south) and Shinjuku (from the north), if you have a good map. Or get off the Yamanote line at Harajuku station (first stop after Shibuya, second stop efter Shinjuku). Find the entrance by following the crowd. Harajuku station also provides access to Meiji Shrine and the Harajuku cosplay and youth subculture hangouts mentioned below, so all three can be visited in one day. Cost: Free!

At the entrance to Yoyogi Park you will find members of the Tokyo Rockabilly Club dancing - they're quite a sight! (and sound!) Inside the park you can experience many different forms of artistic expressions such as bongo drums, guitars, all kinds of dancing, and pets dressed up in ways beyond your imagination. There are also a large number of ordinary Tokyoites going for a Sunday stroll through the park, as well as a multitude of tourists, so you won't look too out of place even in your ordinary clothes.

The Asakusa district in east-central Tokyo is like a time slip back to the Edo era (1600-1868). It centers around the magnificent Sensoji Temple with its impressive Main Hall (look up and you'll see a beautiful painting of a dragon in the ceiling!) and Five-story Pagoda. Leading up to the temple grounds is the old-style shopping street Nakamise-dori where you can find both very authentic, traditional Japanese crafts, as well as more touristy things to bring home as presents. At the start of the street is the landmark Kaminari-mon ("Thunder Gate"), which you will be able to see as you exit from the subway.

Access: Asakusa station on the Ginza subway line will put you right at the start of Nakamise-dori. The Ginza line starts in Shibuya, so you can ride it all across town if you happen to be in the Shibuya area. You can also get on in the eponymous Ginza station, for example, or at Ueno station, which is near by and the closest access point for the JR rail system such as the ubiquitous Yamanote line. The Asakusa subway line also stops at Asakusa station, but it is further to the south from the Sensoji area, so you will have to walk north for about 2 minutes to get to Kaminari-mon. Cost: Free!

The specious and refreshing Ueno Park is located slightly north-east of central Tokyo. This park is great for an afternoon stroll, perhaps for winding down after visiting the much more intense Asakusa (above)? But the park actually houses so many activities that one can easily spend a whole day without leaving the park. For instance, the Tokyo National Museum, National Science Museum, and the National Museum of Western Art are all located near each other at the north-east corner of the park. These museums all have great gift shops with authentic souvenirs. Ueno Zoo in the west corner of the park is small, but impressive for such a metropolitan location. The main attraction is the giant panda, but there are a large number of interesting animals.

Access: The park sits on the back of Ueno station, which is frequented by JR lines such as the ubiquitous Yamanote line. The subway Asakusa line and Hibiya line also stop here. Cost: Free access to the park, temples, shrines, and ponds. Zoo: 600 yen for adults, children free. Museums varies.

New York Bar, situated on the 52nd floor of Shinjuku Park Tower (seen to the right in the photo above) was made famous by the movie Lost In Translation. Fortunately, the impact of this modern, commercial sector of Tokyo won't be lost on its visitors. To see the skyline itself, a good place to go is Shinjuku Central Park, (I recommend a map to find it) at the foot of the spectacular twin towers of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (seen in the center in the photo above). From there you can glance up at the skyscrapers from a calm, green oasis in this jungle of glass and concrete (and don't worry; parks in Japan are relatively safe, unless you're afraid of wild cats, who are usually quite friendly).



The above-mentioned Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building also sports one of Tokyo's best views: both towers (North and South) have observation decks on their top floors (48). The North Tower one has a slightly better view of the vastness of the Kanto plain on which Tokyo is situated, and of other skyscrapers, while the South Tower observation deck sports a magnificent view of Yoyogi Park and Meiji Shrine, and down towards Shibuya to the south. Both observation decks have a great view of the mountain range to the west, and if the weather permits, spectacular views of Mount Fuji, as well as the sprawl of central Tokyo to the east, including Tokyo Tower.

Nishi-Shinjuku is also home to the Yodobashi Camera head store, which is actually a number of specialized stores clustered close together in the electronics district of Nishi-Shinjuku, just outside the West exit of Shinjuku station, close to the west Bus terminal. If you don't have the time or will to go to Akihabara but still want to enjoy some of the splendid electronics shopping that Tokyo has to offer, this is a much more time-efficient place to do it at. Goods can be bought tax free.

Access: Shinjuku station - world's busiest train hub by passenger count - is an experience in itself, especially during rush hours. The Yamanote line stop here, as do the subway Shinjuku, Marunouchi, and Oedo lines. The station is huge so make sure you read the signs and walk towards the West Exit. The subway Oedo line also stops at Tocho-mae station, which is right below the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, so if you take that line, you won't get lost trying to find the observation floor (just go up!). Cost: observation floor is free, the New York Bar from the movie probably charges a decent amount - I've heard that it's 2000 yen in the evening, but might be free or at least cheaper before that, although you'd have to order a drink, and I'm sure it's pricey. But hey, a great view, nice drink, and pleasant atmosphere that starred in a movie might be worth a few yens don't you think?

On your way back, why not stop and have some food in the area around Shinjuku station? It's an area I often go to for food and drinks, as well as shopping. Not as fancy as Ginza, and not as hip as Shibuya, it's a pleasant urban, grown-up area.

Locations in Tokyo can actually be described like the hours on a clock plus a distance. The center of the clock would then correspond to the Imperial Palace Grounds, which are located smack in the middle of the city. The grounds are estimated to be the world's most valuable real estate, and are said to contain 20% of all large trees in Tokyo. Unfortunately, you cannot see that much of the Palace Grounds themselves nor of the Imperial Household buildings and shrines they contain, so don't expect to catch a glimpse of the Emperor. But the surrounding moat and bridges, such as the splendid and picturesque Nijubashi bridge, and gates, and the public East Park and Kitanomaru Park, which is open to the public and is home to the famous Nippon Budokan Martial Arts (and Rock Concert) arena.

Access: An esplanade leading up to the East Park and Nijubashi bridge starts at the Marunouchi Central Exit of Tokyo Station. Don't forget to turn around and have a look at the beautiful exterior of Tokyo Station itself! A large number of subway lines stop at Otemachi station, which lies underground just to the north of Tokyo Station. The subway Mita line stop at Nijubashi-mae station will also put you right in front of the East Park. From the East Park and Nijubashi bridge you can walk counter clockwise around the moat to get to Kitanomaru Park. From there, Kudanshita station is just to your right as you exit the park at Tayasu-mon gate at the north end of the park. Cost: Free!

If you happen to be in Tokyo on either December 23 (the Emperor's birthday) or January 2 (New Year), you have the opportunity to not only tour parts of the inner palace, but also see the Emperor himself and his family on the Palace Grounds. So if you're in town at any of those two dates, don't miss it! I went there once myself on the Emperor's birthday, and it was an exciting little ceremony. Not at all as stiff and governmental as I had imagined, but rather quite happy and cheerful. The audience consisted of mostly old Japanese ladies and young western-looking foreigners.