Northern England in your Car

This Lens introduces a driving route information guide to touring a specific area of Britain by Car without having to read maps. It keeps you off the major routes when possible and suggests interesting places to visit.

There are a network of roads all over Britain that are still a pleasure to drive on. No one is going to set out to drive around Britain in a day, it is impossible.

I have divided the country into 7 areas and, on a different day each week, I will concentrate on providing a pleasureable driving route for one of those areas.

When you finish here, take a look at http://www.squidoo.com/tocome, where you will find pictures of this and other areas of the country. If you want information about the places drop me a line.

- - - - - -

The areas and the days they will be featured are:

1. Scotland - Monday
2. The North of England - Tuesday
3. Wales - Wednesday
4. Central England - Thursday
5. East Anglia - Friday
6. The South East of England - Saturday
7. The South-West of England - Sunday

The routes will have a the same start and finishing point and therefore, being circular, will return you to where you started. The routes can however be started where ever you wish and followed back to where it was joined. We will be suggesting places to stop off at and visit. However there is always more enjoyment in finding your own places to explore during any route.

Approximate mileage will be given for all routes and the amount of time they can be undertaken in using the most leisurely pace and generous stop-over times.

Tuesday - 1

Penrith

The start of our journey today, Penrith, is a large town acting as a regional centre for the eastern Lake District, lying just outside the National Park. Significantly, our tour today circles the eastern Lakes District. Its position on the strategic route to and from Scotland has resulted, since Roman times, in its development as a military centre.

Penrith was once the capital of Cumbria. The attractive town is the hub of the Eden Valley. It is an important shopping centre, with a good mix of traditional shops and sophisticated arcades. Leading off Penrith's main streets are many old yard entrances with interesting inscriptions on the lintels.

Penrith has a rich history. It was in the 9th and 10th centuries that the town became the capital of Cumbria - a semi-dependent state which, until 1070 AD formed part of the Kingdom of Scotland and Strathclyde. The two oldest streets, Burrowgate and Sandgate, date from the 13th Century.

The imposing ruins of Penrith Castle (seen in the photograph) have an intriguing history. It was begun in 1399, when a stone wall was added to an earlier pele tower. The castle was improved and added to over the next 70 years, becoming a royal fortress for Richard, Duke of Gloucester. The Normans built Brougham Castle, and a substantial part of the castle remains today.

A legendary giant and King of All Cumbria, is said to be buried in the giant's grave in St Andrew's Churchyard. The four hogback stones surrounding the grave are said to represent wild boar he killed in nearby Inglewood Forest.

Our base point in Penrith is the BP Truckstop in Mardale Road into which we turn right. Immediately turn left into Haweswater Road and take the 2nd exit at the roundabout onto the A592. Two more roundabouts now. Take the first exit at the first onto the A66 and the 4th exit at the next onto the A6. In 4.8 miles total, turn right onto local roads. You are now entering the Lake District National Park. In 1.9 miles you come into the village of Askham.

2

Askham

Askham is one of the most attractive villages in the former county of Westmorland, about 4 miles south of Penrith. It adjoins the River Lowther, and contains many whitewashed cottages either side of the two village greens.

Sir Robert Smirke whilst working on the design for nearby Lowther Castle, also designed St Peter's church in Askham, the foundation stone of which was laid on 28th June 1832.

Opposite St peter's Church is Askham Hall, a 14th century pele tower converted into an Elizabethan mansion in the mid 16th century by Thomas Sandford, whose family lived in it until 1828 when it became a rectory. It has three irregular wings around an oblong courtyard. Askham Hall has been the home of Lord Lonsdale since the dismantling of nearby Lowther Castle. Unfortunately, at the time of writing the hall was not open to the public although this could change.

There are two pubs in Askham - the 17th century Queen's Head, and the 18th century Punch Bowl, both still retaining some of their original features.

The area around Askham has been inhabited since the late stone age, with two embanked enclosures on nearby Skirsgill Hill, and other prehistoric sites at nearby Moor Divock. There is a bridleway to Moor Divock from Askham.

Turn left at the crossroads in Askham Village and at the next junction fork left. In 3.8 miles after leaving Askham, turn right towards and into Bampton.

3

Bampton

Bampton is a pleasant village set in the Lowther valley surrounded by hills. At Bampton the Lowther is joined by the Haweswater Beck flowing from near by Haweswater Reservoir. Until the 19th century there were many tradespeople in the valley, with tailors, shoemakers, joiners, grocers, butchers, clog makers, master blacksmiths and a miller. There remains a public house, named St Patrick's Well, a garage and a primary school.

In Bampton grange stands St Patrick's church, erected in 1726 on the site of an earlier structure, being restored in 1885. Opposite the church is the vicarage, which houses the famous Tinklar Library, containing many books written in Latin. An old saying is 'they drove the plough in Latin in Bampton'! In the past Bampton Grange also had many commercial premises.

One and a half miles west of Bampton is Burnbanks village, which was built to accomodate the families of the workforce who built Haweswater Dam for Manchester Coporation. Sixty-six bungalows were built, with a mission room, recreation hall and large huts for single woorkmen. Today, about twenty bungalows remain in various states of repair and habitation.

Return back the way you came out of Bampton and follow signs to Shap. On the approach to Shap you turn right into a no-through road. You are now in the vicinity of Shap Abbey and Keld Chapel

4

Shap Abbey and Keld Chapel

Shap Abbey stands in a picturesque setting by the River Lowther, with nothing nearby to interrupt the beauty of the lonely and unfrequented site. It is about half a mile west of Shap.

It was built in 1199, the last Abbey to be founded in England, and the last to be dissolved by Henry VIII in 1540. It was founded by the Premonstratensian order, also known as the White Canons from the colour of their habits. Most of the buildings are 13th Century in origin, though the striking west tower is early 16th Century. The church, chapter house, dormitories, and cloisters are all much ruined. Stone was taken at the end of the 17th Century to build Shap Market Hall. Much of the carved stonework was also removed and used in the building of Lowther Castle.

A short path leads over fields to the small 16th Century Keld Chapel, now in the care of the National Trust.

The medieval Keld Chapel, near Shap, Cumbria, is owned by the National Trust, and is one of their more remote religious sites.

It is probable that Keld was a village in Roman times. What is now known generally as the 'Chapel at Keld' is believed initially to have been a 'chantry' and a part of Shap Abbey. This was a Premonstratensian foundation, which originated at Preston Patrick in about 1122, during the reign of Henry II. It appears to have moved to Shap in about 1125.

The chapel appears to date back to the 15th century. About 1650 it was occupied as a dwelling house.

In 1918 the building was presented by Sir Samuel H. Scott to the National Trust for places of Historic Interest.

Access is at all times, with the key in the village - see the notice on the chapel door.

New Text module

In the photograph above is Shap Abbey and here is Keld Chapel

We leave Shap Abbey and Keld Chapel back the way we came for almost 2 miles and turn left towards Rosgill. In .8 miles turn left and in another .8 miles turn right. In 1.3 miles turn left and continue for 4.5 miles and you will see on the left for all of this Haweswater Reservoir.

5

Haweswater Reservoir

Haweswater is a reservoir built in the valley of Mardale. The controversial construction of the Haweswater dam was started in 1929, after Parliament passed an Act giving Manchester Corporation permission to build the reservoir to supply water for the urban conurbations of north-west England.

At the time there was much public outcry about the decision as the valley of Mardale was populated by the farming villages of Measand and Mardale Green, and the construction of the reservoir would mean that these villages would be flooded and lost, and the population would have to be moved. In addition the valley was considered one of the most picturesque in Westmorland, and many people thought it should be left alone.

Haweswater is now one of the largest lakes at 4 miles long and 1/2 mile wide, and has a maximum depth of 200 feet . It is the most easterly of the lakes, and has no settlements on its shores. A concrete dam, 1550 feet wide and 120 feet high was built, and this raised the lake level by 95 feet.

All the farms and houses of the villages of Mardale and Measand, and the Dun Bull Inn were pulled down. Coffins were removed from the graveyard, and buried elsewhere, and Mardale church was demolished. At times of drought, when the water level is low, many people go back to see what is left of the village of Mardale.

Once you have seen enough of this beatiful scenery, return back the way you came and turn right at the first right turn. At the next junction turn right again before forking left soon after. Stay on this road until you reach the A6 and turn right. In 11.8 miles turn right at Sletsmergh. After .5 mile turn right and in .2 miles bear left for .6 miles then bear left for 54 yards and turn right.Continue .8 miles then turn left before turning right after .2 miles. You should now be driving along Winter Lane In 1.1 miles turn right onto the A591 and follow this for 6 miles to Troutbeck Bridge, passing through Windermere and staying a while if you wish.

6

Windermere

England's largest and arguably, prettiest lake, more than ten miles long, and at it's deepest 220ft (65m) is situated in beautiful countryside at the southern end of The Lake District. Many of the best loved mountains are visible from the lake and it' s shores.

The town of Windermere in Cumbria, England is situated in The Lake District National Park ands lies 1kilometer from Lake Windermere, the town itself dosn't touch the lake, and is sometimes confused with the older town of Bowness On Windermere, over the years both towns have grown in population and are sometimes mistaken as one.

Whilst it is a very nice place to explore, our route today gets more picturesque and it is one of my favourite drives. Firstly we will motor

The town of Windermere has changed considerably over the past centaury or so, not only in it' s appearance but in name to. Windermere was once made up of three small hamlets called Birththwaite, Applethwaite and Heathwaite, the word ' thwaite' means a clearing in some trees, when the railway at Applethwaite arrived in 1857 bringing many wealthy mill owners from Lancashire, it was decided that visiting people to the area would recognise the location more if this small hamlet was renamed after the Lake (Windermere) so the three hamlets were renamed and became one. Most of the buildings in the Windermere location are of the Victorian era, and the town started to grow with the increase of visitors.

Windermere town is a fantastic place to base yourself if staying on holiday, with it's own rail link, bus terminals, you are never to far away from the mountains and lakes, but near to all major attractions.

Accommodation in the town is second to none, if you are looking for a lake view country house or a small b&b Windermere has all types of accommodation to suit your taste and budget. Windermere and surrounding area boast's some of the finest eating places in The Lake District, over the past few years Cumbria has become better known as the ' Taste District' and when you look at the stunning views, it will leave you in no doubt as to it's quality.

When you have arrived in Troutbeck Bridge, turn right into Bridge Lane and continue for 1.6 miles to Troutbeck

7

Troutbeck

Troutbeck can be found between Windermere and Ambleside, just off the Kirkstone Pass. The village of Troutbeck is spread along a hillside which runs from Town End to Town Head. The houses, cottages and farms can be found spread along a narrow lane bordered by dry-stone walls. Most of the buildings can be found or centred around springs or wells.

Troutbeck is designated a Conservation Area, with a number of buildings which date from the 17th to the 19th Centuries. Some of the buildings have retained the original features such as mullioned windows, heavy cylindrical chimneys and a rare example of an exposed spinning gallery can be seen.

One of the oldest properties is Townend situated at the southern end of the village. Townend is a farmhouse with whitewashed walls and stone mullioned windows and was built in 1623 by George Browne and remained in the family until 1943 and now is the hands of the National Trust. Inside this fine 17th Century Yeoman's house you will discover low ceilings. Original home carved oak panelling and furniture and stone flagged floors.

The church and the former school can be found in the valley which was rebuilt in the 18th Century has an east window created in 1873 by William Morris, Edward Burne-Jones and Ford Madox Brown.

At the northern end of the village is a 17th Century inn "Mortal Man" and a delightful Clock Cottage with farms and cottages that cluster around the buildings.

In one mile keep straight ahead onto the A592 for another 3 miles and you are going throgh Kirkstone Pass. Kirkstone Pass with an altitude of 1,489 feet is the Lake District's highest pass that is open to motor traffic. It connects Ambleside in the Rothay Valley to Patterdale in the Ullswater Valley - the A592 road. There is another route from Troutbeck, which joins the Ambleside road at the Kirkstone Pass Inn.

In places, the gradient is 1 in 4. Brothers Water provides a picturesque view on the descent to Patterdale.

The Kirkstone Pass Inn stands close to the summit of the pass. Formerly an important coaching inn, it now caters primarily for tourists. It is the third highest public house in England.

Patterdale is a further 5.2 miles filled with some of the most amazing views of Ullswater.

8

Kirkstone Pass

9

Glenridding

Glenridding (meaning "glen overgrown with bracken") is a small, mainly tourist village at the southern end of Ullswater, near the foot of Kirkstone Pass.

Lead ore was first discovered at what became the Greenside Lead Mine in the 1650s, with the first levels being driven by Dutch adventurers in the 1690s. Dressed ore was carried to the Stoneycroft smelter at Keswick. Production did not really begin until the late 18th century, with the mine not being extensively worked until 1825. Power was originally provided by water-wheels, with the water being supplied by the damming of nearby tarns. One of these, Keppel Cove, burst its banks in 1927, bringing disaster to the village below. Much the same happened four years later, when flood waters smashed through the concrete of High Dam. By the early 1960s, it had become uneconomic to continue to extract lead from the mine, and it closed. Most of the mine buildings are now gone, but a few remain and serve as a Youth Hostel and mountain huts.

In the latter stage of the mine's life, for a short period, Greenside Mine came under the control of the UK Atomic Weapons Research Establishment, and was used to test a theory that an underground nuclear test explosion could be made undetectable by its seismic signal. The experiment was known as Operation Orpheus, and involved two test explosions at Greenside Mine.

With the lead mining industry gone, the area is now mainly for the tourists who come to view one of the most beautiful areas in the Lakes. The area is popular with walkers with many walks to suit all levels from the easy to the more demanding. One reason a lot of walkers come here is to do the classic Helvellyn walk along Striding Edge. This is a walk not for the fainted hearted with Helvellyn reaching a height of 3,116ft [950m].

You could combine a walk and a cruise along Ullswater Lake on one of the steamers that can be seen on the lake. The Ullswater Steamers the "Lady of the Lake" and "Raven" date from 1877 and 1889. You can board these steamers either at Glenridding, Howtown or at the northern end of Ullswater at Pooley Bridge. You will see fine scenery along the 7.5 mile lake's length.

Our concentration now is the drive through to the top of Ullswater. However, an attraction you should not miss is Aira Force, just 2.2 miles from Glenridding where you will see a spectacular 60 ft waterfall. There are bridges at the top and bottom to view from.

10

Aira Force

Amazing sight and well worth the stopover.

11

Pooley Bridge

It is now 5.7 to the top of Ullswater at Pooley Bridge. Believe me you WILL want to do the last 20 miles or so again and again. Take time at least to walk back to the Steamer landing stage you just passed and reflect on that view down Ullswater

Pooley Bridge can be found by the River Eamont at the northern end of Lake Ullswater. Today it is a busy place catering mainly for the tourist trade.

The name Pooley Bridge derives from a large pool in the River Eamont,"The Hill by the Pool". The 'Bridge' part of the name was added in 1800.

The church of St. Paul's (lower centre in the picture) can be found in the centre of the village and dates from around 1868. Opposite the church is a row of very old houses, one of which was a blacksmith's.

A 16th century bridge was built across the River Eamont, which flows from Ullswater to Eamont Bridge, and on to the River Eden, near Langwathby.

To the north of the river is a hall, Dunmallet, on which is an iron age fort. Prehistoric cairns dot the landscape surrounding Ullswater.

It was once a busy market town, before nearby Penrith took precedence in the 19th century, with fish being the mainstay of Pooley Bridge's market produce.

Boats can be found moored here and the Ullswater Steamers also depart from here offering trips along the 7 mile lake to Howtown and Glenridding at the southern end of the lake.

It is now 4.4 miles back to the A6 where we turn right to return back to our Penrith starting point, a trip of 82 miles and 1 hour 48 minutes without (impossible) stopping. There is more than enough both in this route description and that which you will come across along it yourself to take up many days of coming back.

See you in Wales tomorrow