Trekking Poles: Multi-Use Gear For Hikers

TELESCOPING TREKKING POLES: Poles that telescope are superior to those that are a single, fixed rod for a couple of reasons, the first and obvious being that the length can be adjusted to suit the user and be readjusted at any time. Another benefit is that that you can shorten them to their minimum length and stow them in your pack if you don't feel like using them for a while or need free hands for climbing or other technical maneuvers. Telescopic poles come with two or three sections, with three sections compressing to the shortest length for stowing.

SHOCK-ABSORBING TREKKING POLES: Some trekking poles have built-in shock absorbing springs, with some anti-shock systems providing a range of settings you can choose from to suit hiking conditions. The shock absorbers lessen the impact of the pole hitting the ground, which is said to decrease the strain on shoulders and arms, particularly on long descents. I never have used shock-absorbing poles, which are usually more expensive than those without the system, but if you do purchase shock-absorbing poles, you want to be able to "turn off" the system for going uphill. If you don't, it will detract from the power you can gain when you place each pole for the next step and actually work against you.

GRIPS: You want a grip that comfortably fits your hand. Grips can be made of a hardened cork, rubber, foam or plastic, with plastic being the least comfortable, especially when wet from rain or sweat. Rubber is fairly comfortable, with hardened foam and cork being the most comfortable. Poles that have a little padding below the grip are also nice, because you can periodically hold the pole there on short ascents rather than taking the time to adjust the length.

TIPS: There are three types of trekking pole tips--single-point, chiseled, and rubber-tipped, with the most versatile being the chiseled point where the very tip looks like notches have been cut in it, leaving several points sticking out. The chiseled point provides traction when walking on surfaces from ice to pavement and most anything in between. The rubber tips work really well on hard surfaces, while sharp tips are best for icy conditions. Carbide tips are more durable than aluminum.

BASKETS: The round rings above the tips are the baskets, which maintain "float"--meaning, the poles won't sink into soft ground or snow. Some trekking poles come with small, "summer baskets," but most have none at all. You can purchase and add baskets, though, including those that look like snowflakes which are best for ... you got it, snow ... while the large, solid baskets are great for mud.

ACCESSORIES: Some trekking poles come with additional gadgetry, like a little, basic compass, a tiny thermometer or flashlight at the top, or screw-off grips with little holding spaces inside. I've never bothered with these accessories and don't personally find them worth any extra cost.

TREKKING POLE LENGTH: As with all hiking gear, it will take a bit of trial and error to determine the length of hiking poles that suits you best. Some people prefer to adjust the length depending on terrain, lengthening their poles when descending and shortening them for ascents. Me, I tend to leave my poles at the same length unless a descent will be especially steep and long.

Basically, here's how you adjust your pole length, at least to start: First, unlock the upper and lower sections of your poles by twisting them. On both poles, pull out the bottom section till it's just below the maximum limit. (You can tell if you've gone too far and push it back in a bit.) Twist the bottom section to lock it. Next, stand with your shoulders relaxed and put the pole under your arm. Adjust the length of the upper portion of the pole so that the top is about two or three inches below your armpit, then lock. You can use the first pole to set the length of the second.

Your arms should be bent at about a 90-degree angle when gripping the poles.

WRIST STRAPS: I find that my weight is usually on the wrist straps much more than on the grips, as it really should be. And I never have to grip the handle tightly in order to apply pressure. The straps should be adjusted so that you can easily slip your hands into them from below. Slide your hands up till the strap is around your wrist, then grip the poles with the strap below the palm of your hand. The wrist strap should not be tight. Lengthen if necessary. (See the video below to see what I mean...)

LEFT OR RIGHT?: Some pairs of trekking poles do actually have left and right-handed poles. Mine do. The right one has a white dot on the top of the grip, the left is all black. I sometimes get them mixed up when not paying attention, but I eventually do notice and then notice that they're more comfortable when switched to their proper sides. The hand grips fit better.

POLE MOVEMENT: Trekking poles should be thought of as extensions of your arms, so they'll swing forward and back just as your arms would without them, with your left arm coming forward as you take a step forward with your right leg and vice versa.

ASCENDING: When going uphill, swing the poles ahead and push on them to help move you up, and keep pushing as you move past them. To get extra power on really steep slopes, you can move your hand to the top of the handle and give a final push as the pole moves behind you. I've even put both poles in front of me at once on super steep terrain, using both arms to give myself an even better push.

DESCENDING: On descents, the poles can take much of the weight by putting them well ahead of you. For long descents, it helps to lengthen the poles.