Underwater Cameras

Underwater photography is a potentially dangerous distraction. Snap-happy divers tend to pay more attention to their lenses than their pressure gauges. While you're getting in for your hundredth closeup shot of brain coral, turn around once in awhile and make sure your buddy isn't dead. If you are incapable of managing your own dive, you shouldn't be adding more distractions. That said, if you are capable of diving responsibly while holding a camera, underwater photography is fun and rewarding.

A typical beginning underwater photography system consists of:

A camera
1. A waterproof housing
2. Memory, batteries
3. External strobe flash
4. Wide-angle lenses, macrolenses
5. A carrying case

It's not a difficult choice. If you are buying a new camera, it is strongly suggested to go digital. Digital cameras are often priced comparably with film cameras. With resolutions in the 10 megapixel range, a digital print is as clear as a film negative; even when printed on a large scale. Underwater digital cameras offer all the same advantages as their terrestrial counterparts, including LCD screen real image viewing, instant playback and the low cost of reusable flash memory. With a digital camera, you won't waste hundreds of feet of film on bad photos and you can take more than 36 shots on a dive. Most digital cameras also record short motion picture clips.

The LCD screen is probably the feature you will appreciate the most on your underwater photography excursions. You can't hold the camera up to your face and squint through the viewfinder - your mask has a tendency to get in the way. With the LCD screen on, you can frame and compose your photos while holding your camera well away from your face. An LCD screen drains a battery really fast - and since you can't take the camera out of the housing to change batteries in the water, you need to make sure you descend with fresh ones in there that will last as long as your tank of air.

1: The disposable underwater film camera
These are nice just because they're cheap. Take one of these on a dive (check the rating - the better ones are good up to 70') and take pictures of each other waving and pointing at fish. If you dive often or care about the photo quality, a housed digital is a better option.

2: The point and shoot digital camera in a housing
A little more expensive, but they become more affordable every year. Of all the underwater photography systems available, these are the most popular. Major digital camera manufacturers like Olympus, Sony, Nikon and Canon all make waterproof housings for their cameras. A housing system allows you to use the same camera on land and in water. The tiny aperture means your depth of focus is enormous - unlike an SLR you won't have to fuss with manual adjustments while underwater.

If you're investing in a digital camera and underwater housing, get one that lets you attach external strobes and lenses. Underwater photography is a gadget-heavy hobby, so choose a camera and housing that will grow with your obsession.

Much more versatile and much more expensive. These are preferred by professional photographers. Given the complexity of using one underwater, they are probably best left for professionals and advanced amateurs. SLR photography isn't difficult, but it's fussy. For the recreational diver who wants some nice photos, the point-and-shoot digital is more than sufficient. You'd want an SLR if you're aiming for the cover shot of Rodale, when you've outgrown your point and shoot camera and want a more technical piece of equipment, or if you just have more money than you know what to do with.

The challenge of underwater photography is the water. Water is transparent, but not invisible; it refracts light, filters colours and holds zillions of tiny particles in suspension between you and your subject. Even on the most crystalline days with exceptional visibilty, the depth range of underwater photography is only 70-80 feet.

Most beginning photographers are shocked when they get their first batch of photos developed (or uploaded) and see for themselves how different things look. With our eyes, we saw vibrant colors and vibrant hues. In the photos, everything is a dull grey-green-blue. What happened?

Water and particulate matter suspended in water absorbs and refracts light unequally at different spectra. The more water your light passes through, the dimmer and bluer it gets. Your eyes and brain adjust to this ambient light; your camera does not. While you see a glorious scene from Finding Nemo through the viewfinder, your photographs will look shadowy and drab unless you supply some kind of strobe flash lighting.

If your camera accommodates additional lenses, your best lens arsenal for underwater photography includes a wide-angle and a macro. The wide-angle gives you great coverage for medium-long shots, while a macro is good for the close stuff.

Many lenses claim they "can be changed underwater" though, most recreational underwater photographers prefer to choose and attach one lens per dive. When you're already carrying your tank, reg, octo, gauges and camera, having pockets full of fragile glass lenses is too much.

Make sure your lenses and all peripherals are tethered to the camera and your camera is secured by a strap around your neck. In many underwater situations, dropping your equipment is equivalent to losing it forever. Visit any heavily frequented wreck or reef, and you will probably see a few snorkels and weights lying around on the bottom. Don't add your camera to that trash.