Vientiane: Laos' City of Sandalwood

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Vientiane, the Capital City of Laos

Sandalwood. Wiang-jun. What a wonderful, hopeful name for a city. What a vision it calls up of a lost history or misplaced hopes, of languid gardens and southern birds. This special name of Laos' capital city comes from Pali, the liturgical language of Theravada Buddhism and truly means sandalwood, a flower from India treasured for its fragrance. As the French had difficulty pronouncing the hard "j" in Wiang-jun, they just called the place Vientiane. Well, at least they didn't call it Lyon or Nouveau Marseille.

It is believed that Vientiane was a Khmer (remember Cambodia?) settlement, scattered around a Hindu temple. But around the 11th and 12th centuries, the Lao and Thai came from Southern China and overtook the area in one of the endless tumblings of history that mark this much fought over land. Records show that by 1354, the kingdom of Lan Xang was founded with Vientiane as its administrative city. The sandalwood image began to fade and when the French took over the area in 1893, Vientiane was in ruins, looted and almost empty, but nicely situated. So with the Mekong on their front door step as a highway to Vietnam and Cambodia they rebuilt old sandalwood to its next iteration and made it the capital of the protectorate, of French Indo China.

Then came the Japanese in WWII in the 1940's, followed by the French exit from Indochina after Dien Bien Phu in 1954 and then a civil war ending with the Pathet Lao in power. Remember the Ho Chi Minh Trail? Lao may be the most bombed country in the world, but not Vientiane thank goodness. What a mess. At least sandalwood came back in the ruins to cover some of the evils of the times.

Vientiane on videos

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Laos: Vientiane discovered
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Your guide to Vientiane, Laos

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It is hard to find locals speaking English so it is better to have your guide book. You can appreciate more when you understand what you are seeing.
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Vientiane in Pictures

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Landmarks of Vientiane

Wat Si Muang

There are a few sites to occupy tourists in Vientiane. It is a small city and pretty laid back still. This is part of its charm. Its most famous monument is the Buddhist Stupa, Pha That Luang. Originally built in 1566 by King Setthathirath. This golden stupa is believed to contain a relic of the Lord Buddha. Mind you, if all the bits and pieces scattered over Asia that are attributed to Buddha realy were part of him, he must have been hydra headed and eight armed!

Built on the ruins of the ancient Khmer Hindu shrine, Wat Si Muang is a temple to see. In front of the temple is the statue of King Sisavang Vong. Behind the ordination hall which was built in 1563, the remains of the Khmer temple can still be seen. Legend has it that this temple is guarded by Si, the spirit of a local woman Nang Si who, as a sacrifice, leapt to her death as the pillar was lowered in the hole. Who knows? A quick tour of Italian cathedrals will offer up stranger tales than this!

Something special on Vientiane

Get your copy of this Vientiane Journal

This Vientiane journal includes as well a budget planner, activity planner, packing checklist and other useful help to have a good record of your trip.

Travel Journal Vientiane

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It is worth bringing with you as you travel through Vientiane and Laos as a whole.

Patuxai

Laos Independence Monument

Completed in 1968 to celebrate Laos independence, Patuxai is the most prominent landmark in the city. It looks like the arc de Triomphe in Paris except for some Lao symbols such as the kinnari, a mythical bird woman. Given that the French sort of snuck away without much noise, the Patuxai is sort of laid back too.

Vientiane in Pictures

These Vientiane pictures give you a good idea of what to see

The Buddha Park in Vientiane

View its collection of Buddhist and Hindu sculptures

There is the Buddha Park built in 1958 along the edge of the Mekong River set around gardens and trees. It has a collection of Buddhist and Hindu sculptures and as a record of the ebb and flow of these two religions throughout South East Asia, it is quite a site.

Get to know more about Buddhism in laos

Theravada Buddhism is practiced in Laos

This explains the basics of this kind of Buddhism.

Theravada Buddhism - Simple Guides

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This is a good book to get when you only want to have a better understanding of Lao culture.

Videos on Vientiane

A good introduction to visiting Vientiane

Laos: Vientiane discovered
by nfsutton | video info

19 ratings | 20,779 views
curated content from YouTube

The First Lao-Thai Friendship Bridge

Built in the 1990's, it connects Vientiane to Nong Khai, a Thai city. About 18 kms long, this is a major through way between Laos and Thailand. If you are into bridges and causeways, this is a winner.

Shopping in Vientiane

Best Buys in Vientiane

For those of you who are aggressive souvenir hunters, go to Talat Sao - Morning Market. You will find real authentic local crafts and remember there are some unusual weaves and straws done by the indigenous folks such as the Hmong. Visit some of the stores in the main streets run by NGOs. Hand woven silk and other items are good buys here. But best of all, it will put you close to a brace of wonderful French-tradition restaurants that really are worthwhile.

In the evening, you can wander along the Mekong and there are expected stalls so it's is a good walk and a good place to try out your bargaining skills. Have fun but don't take the fun out of the Laotians trying to earn a few dollars from you. Beer Lao is praised by many as the best beer in the world. If only for that, Vientiane is worth a dekko.

Read on Laos culture

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Culture Shock! Laos

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Vientiane Today

Look at the pictures

It is slowly developing out of its laid back existence. It has now a working stock exchange and it s developing its infrastructure as well.
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How to get to Vientiane

Visas Available Upon Arrival

Bus services are available daily to Vientiane from Nong Khai, Udon Thani and Khon Kaen in Thailand.

There are direct flights from other Asian cities like Bangkok, Phnom Penh, Hanoi and it's easy to plan a circle route covering Lao, Vietnam and Cambodia.

Where to Stay in Vientiane

Settah Palace

There are good choices of places to stay in Vientiane, but my favourite is the Settah Palace. Built in 1932, the same family still owns it and with the recent retro refurbishment, you sit at the bar waiting for Humphrey and Lauren or Sidney Greenstreet or maybe Catherine Deneuve to swing past the door. It has the whiff of intrigue and even some working fans to summon up the past. It is small enough that I am not underwhelmed by dozens of cookie cutter rooms. Airport pick-up is in an old London cab, so you start ramping down to history from the get-go. And then the wonderful, colonial hotel (with all modern amenities). The place is an elegant symbol of the 30's. Yes, there is even some sandalwood and the gardens alone are worth the stay.

Settah Palace is right in the city center so it's an easy walk to most places. And when you get tired walking the dusty roads of Vientiane, you can come home to your hotel and chill in the garden. This typical Asian home garden with its trees and flowers in bloom is a relaxing place to hang out, meet your colleagues or business partners or relax there yourself and write your travel journal especially in the middle of the day when the sun just makes walking a test to one's comfort. You still can walk the streets of Laos without seeing the stores you often see in most cities you visit. The other "Brands" will all get there soon, but for now, this is sleepy hollow without a burger or burrito in sight. This is different, rural and laid back.

There are, of course other options for those who do not prefer this kind of a hotel. The links below will lead you to many alternatives, all appealing in different ways. The small guest houses close to the Mekong would be great places to stay as well and are usually a bargain.

Lao Food

Try Laap

The French certainly left some of their culinary skills especially in their baguettes. There are a few restaurants still run by French expats. Typical Lao dishes are similar to its neighbours, the Thais, the Cambodians and Vietnamese. It is a rice based cuisine and uses fish sauce. Try Laap, a dish of minced fish or meat with vegetables tossed with lime juice, garlic, pounded rice, green onions, mint leaves and lots of chillies. Most restaurants serve this dish. If you have tried Som Tam in Thailand, the Laos call it Tum Som, green papaya salad, a refreshing accompaniment to the other dishes especially fish and rice. The street food is fantastic. Two of us once ate to excess for less than a Euro.

Watch Lao cooking videos

Very interesting

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Traditional Recipes of Laos

Get this book

This book gives you the traditional recipes of Laos.

Traditional Recipes of Laos

Amazon Price: $15.36 (as of 05/25/2012)Buy Now

If you are interested to try cooking Laos food, get this one. You want the traditional recipes.

The Laos Stock Exchange

A Step towards Capitalism?

The recently opened stock market in Laos has certainly highlighted the potential of its economy and has propelled state owned enterprises to go public. It has engaged the locals with grandfathers lining up on opening day to buy stocks as souvenirs for their grandchildren. So far, two state run firms have been listed: Electricite du Laos Generation Company and the Banque Pour Le Commerce Exterieur Lao. Thai companies are seeking to enlist in the exchange and Cambodian companies are watching on the sidelines so they, too, can take the necessary moves.

For your trip to Laos

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Vientiane dreams to be a Hong Kong over Mekong...
Did you like Vientiane because of its quaint and slow pace of life? Then better rush up to visit the Laotian capital as Vientiane's nonchalant life style might soon become a fading memory. Vientiane New World project, dubbed the 'Glory of Laos', ...
China-invested project to modernize Vientiane
VIENTIANE - A reception was held in Vientiane Monday night to commemorate the launching of CAMCE Investment (Lao) Company's major commercial real estate project, Vientiane New World. Laos Deputy Prime Minister and Foreign Minister Thongloun Sisoulith ...
Vietnam Company To Plant Rubber Trees In Northern Laos
VIENTIANE, May 25 (Bernama) - Vietnma's Dien Bien Rubber JSC has signed a memorandum of understanding (MoU) with the Lao government to study the feasibility of a rubber plantation project in Udomsay province in northern Laos.
Electric vehicles the key for a modern, clean vientiane
Laos is booming, nowhere is that more visible than in Vientiane, with the capital city growing in population by 5% per year and due to double in size in the next 20 years. Lao people are seeing huge increases in service provision and opportunity, ...

Pathet Lao in the Struggle for Laos

Learn more about Laos history

North Vietnam and the Pathet Lao: Partners in the Struggle for Laos (Rand Corporation Research Studies)

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To understand Laos today, one has to know the Pathet lao and the role they played in Laos history.

Laos Ancient \Past

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Include some of these places in your itinerary to Laos

If you are interested to go to Laos, this trip brings you close to several other countries in Asia which are easy to get to from Laos. Some of these places you get to first before you reach Laos if you are not taking a direct route which often is not possible in your part of the world. So here are some articles you can read to prepare your itinerary:

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  • Wordwinder Apr 2, 2012 @ 2:08 am | delete
    The last time that I read anything substantive about Laos was during the Vietnam war when as a school boy I would pore over war reports in newspapers and magazines with my dad and mark the movements of adversaries on a large map of the Indo-China region. From the pictures in your lens, Laos appears to have come a long way in the almost five decades since then. Great lens!
  • aesta1 Apr 14, 2012 @ 7:16 am | delete
    It has gone a long way with even a new stock exchange.
  • A-Redneck Jul 10, 2011 @ 3:40 pm | delete
    I feel like I travel around the world as I visit the articles on Squidoo. What a wonderful journey and thank you for allowing me to visit Sandlewood Vientiane today.
  • aesta1 Apr 14, 2012 @ 7:16 am | delete
    Happy you enjoyed your visit.
  • Tipi Jan 3, 2011 @ 6:47 pm | delete
    Interesting, informative, lovely, great pictures and all together another delightful visit!
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The History of Laos

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A History of Laos by Martin Stuart-Fox

A History of Laos by Martin Stuart-Fox

This authoritative and wide-ranging history focuse more...0 points

Here There Are Tigers: The Secret Air War in Laos, 1968-69 (Stackpole Military History Series) by Reginald Hathorn

Here There Are Tigers: The Secret Air War in Laos, 1968-69 (Stackpole Military History Series) by Reginald Hathorn

At the height of the Vietnam War, in 1968 and 1969 more...0 points

A Short History of Laos: The Land in Between (A Short History of Asia series) by Grant Evans

A Short History of Laos: The Land in Between (A Short History of Asia series) by Grant Evans

This comprehensive and vivid history of Laos is an more...0 points

Tragic Mountains: The Hmong, the Americans, and the Secret Wars for Laos, 1942-1992 by Jane Hamilton-Merritt

Tragic Mountains: The Hmong, the Americans, and the Secret Wars for Laos, 1942-1992 by Jane Hamilton-Merritt

Jane Hamilton-Merritt, Nobel-nominated scholar and more...0 points

Sky Is Falling: An Oral History of the CIA's Evacuation of the Hmong from Laos by Gayle L. Morrison

Sky Is Falling: An Oral History of the CIA's Evacuation of the Hmong from Laos by Gayle L. Morrison

Starting in 1960, Hmong guerrilla soldiers, under more...0 points

Hmong Means Free (Asian American History & Cultu)

Hmong Means Free (Asian American History & Cultu)

This collection of evocative personal testimonies more...0 points

Post-war Laos: The Politics of Culture, History, And Identity by Vatthana Pholsena

Post-war Laos: The Politics of Culture, History, And Identity by Vatthana Pholsena

Three decades after the conclusion of the civil wa more...0 points

The Last Century of Lao Royalty: A Documentary History by Grant Evans

The Last Century of Lao Royalty: A Documentary History by Grant Evans

Lao royalty's engagement in all the major events o more...0 points

God of the Dao: Lord Lao in History and Myth (Michigan Monographs in Chinese Studies) by Livia Kohn

God of the Dao: Lord Lao in History and Myth (Michigan Monographs in Chinese Studies) by Livia Kohn

Lord Lao, first known as the philosopher Laozi, the more...0 points

Gathering Leaves and Lifting Words: Histories of Buddhist Monastic Education in Laos and Thailand (Critical Dialogues in Southeast Asian Studies) by Justin Thomas Mcdaniel

Gathering Leaves and Lifting Words: Histories of Buddhist Monastic Education in Laos and Thailand (Critical Dialogues in Southeast Asian Studies) by Justin Thomas Mcdaniel

"Gathering Leaves and Lifting Words" exa more...0 points

Traditional Recipes of Laos by Phia Sing

Traditional Recipes of Laos by Phia Sing

Phia Sing was the Master of Ceremonies and Chef at more...0 points

The Kingdoms of Laos by Sanda Simms

The Kingdoms of Laos by Sanda Simms

Describes the changes in society over 600 years as more...0 points

Breaking New Ground in Lao History: Essays on the Seventh to Twentieth Centuries

Breaking New Ground in Lao History: Essays on the Seventh to Twentieth Centuries

The essays in this volume form a rich collage of t more...0 points

History of Aid to Laos: Motivations and Impacts (Mekong Press) by Viliam Phraxayavong

History of Aid to Laos: Motivations and Impacts (Mekong Press) by Viliam Phraxayavong

Investigates the situation of a country dependent more...0 points

Lao: Webster's Timeline History, 2002 - 2007 by Icon Group International

Lao: Webster's Timeline History, 2002 - 2007 by Icon Group International

Webster's bibliographic and event-based timelines more...0 points

Lao Close Encounters by John J.S. Burton

Lao Close Encounters by John J.S. Burton

This is a new pictorial odyssey through Laos, with more...0 points

History of Laos

History of Laos

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aesta1

I have visited Vientiane years ago and it was really rural but recently it is touted as the fastest in development in the region. It just opened its s... more »

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