Jerusalem is an amazing and beautiful city, that is sometimes anxiety-inducing, but always awe-inspiring. Here are some thoughts to help you accentuate the positive (and eliminate the negative).
Jerusalem's Best Experiences
- Yad Vashem The Holocaust Martyrs'and Heroes' Remembrance Authority
- Yad Vashem is an important and nearly overwhelming experience, but one that is essential to any visit. The new museum complex has altered and refreshed the center.
- The Kotel and Western Wall Tunnels
- The Western Wall is the western retaining wall of the Temple Mount, the one that was closest to the Holy of Holies when the Temple stood. The Kotel is separated into men's and women's sections - women should cover their shoulders and wear skirt that covers their knees, and me should cover their heads.
Next to the Kotel is a newly excavated Tunnel that runs the length of the wall under the Muslim quarter of the Old City. You may enter the tunnels with a tour only and you must schedule it in advance. Entrance is to the left of the Kotel Plaza if you are facing the Kotel. - The Tower of David
- A museum covering the history of Jerusalem in an historic citadel primarily built by the Mamluks in the 14th century. There's a very amusing video introduction
- The Ophel Archaeological Park
- The park transports visitors back 3,000 years, to the time of the Book of Kings. It was here, between the temple and the walled city below, that King David built his palace. Here Solomon built his House of the Cedars of Lebanon, a palace for his many wives and concubines, as well as a government complex from which he ruled his empire. Here the Prophet Isaiah advised King Hezekiah--perhaps Isaiah lived in a house built on one of the foundations recently excavated and restored. Archaeologists have even found physical evidence of the backsliding into pagan religions the prophets once railed against. Under the floor of a First Temple period house, within sight of the temple itself, excavators in the 1980s uncovered a hidden cache of pagan gods.
- The Israel Museum
- The Israel Museum contains an amazing collection of archaeological artifacts from the land of Israel. Don't miss the stela that contains the name of the House of David and the Dead Sea Scrolls. Try to get a guided tour - they are offered in English frequently.
The museum also contains a collection of Judaica artifacts from around the world, including full rooms transported from abandoned synagogues. See the Israel Art and Temporary exhibits if you have the time, but the art is by and large extremely modern and bizarre, and the temporary exhibits tend to have little or no connection to Israel and/or Judaism. - Hire a private tour guide - Yossi Granit
- Yossi is a fantastic tour guide of Jerusalem and most of Israel. Highly recommended.
Best Restaurants in Jerusalem
- Ima
- Fantastic casual (kosher) restaurant for Middle Eastern food - falafel, hummous, baba ganouj, etc.
- Caffit
- Great casual place on Emek Refaim for salads, coffees, etc. Nice outdoor deck.
- Chakra
- If you don't keep kosher, you absolutely have to go here. Don't be put off by the drab, condemned looking exterior. Some of the best food in Jerusalem, if not the country. Best chicken liver ever.
The Best Hotels in Jerusalem
- Dan Panorama Jerusalem
- Bang for your buck, this hotel is the best. It's within walking distance to the Old City and the Ben Yehuda shopping area. Get a superior room or better. The standard rooms have not been renovated since the late '70s.
- David Citadel Hotel
- The David Citadel is the best luxury hotel in Jerusalem. It is modern, in an amazing location, and pretty expensive.
- The King David Hotel
- The King David is the most historical hotel, and traditionally the best of the best. Until the David Citadel came along. The lobby and the grounds are lovely, but I've heard the rooms are small and not particularly up-to-date. Make sure you stop by for a meal or tea on the terrace, though.
- Mount Zion Hotel
- Located on the edge of a valley, across from the Old City. Mount Zion is partly composed of renovated 19th- and early 20th-century Jerusalem stone buildings that have been blended into a modern complex. The only drawback is the location. It's a 10 minute walk from where the other hotels are, and the road can be dark and unpopulated, especially at night.
Daytrips from Jerusalem
- The Armored Corps Memorial and Museum at Latrun
- Amazing collection of tanks - both Israeli and foreign (Syrian, Egyptian, etc.). The musuem is located around the Latrun Police building, built by the British, which was key battlesite in the 1948 War for Independence.
Security in Jerusalem
There have been very few suicide bombings in Jerusalem in recent years, but here are some thoughts on what to look out for and how to keep yourself safe. For now, I would consider Jerusalem and extremely safe place to visit. Feel free to ignore these suggestions.
- Buses - Jerusalem is a pretty walkable city, but if you're tired or you need to get somewhere out of walking range, take a taxi. Many of the suicide bombings were unfortunately on buses. Taxis are not that expensive. People who live in Jerusalem obviously need the bus system to get places on a daily basis, but if you're on vacation, just splurge a little.
- Restaurants, Bars, Cafes - Most eating and drinking establishments have a security guard out front. Better to stick to those.
- East Jerusalem and the Old City - There have been a few random stabbings in the Old City and East Jerusalem of tourists and locals alike. If you want to travel to East Jerusalem, it's probably better to take an organized tour or hire a taxi for an afternoon to take you around - Taxi drivers love to be hired for extended trips.
I have walked all around every section of the Old City and felt perfectly safe as an American. Foreign Christians tourists are expected in the Christian and Muslim quarters because there are a number of Christian sites there. Mostly, the Palestinians in the Old City are just vendors who want to sell their merchandise.
Good Guide Books on Jerusalem and Israel
unfortunately there aren't that many out there....
Frommer's Israel
My personal favorite... Excellent combination of hotel, activity, and restaurant options.
Amazon Price: $8.01 (as of 01/02/2010) 
Fodor's Israel, 6th Edition (Fodor's Gold Guides)
Amazon Price: (as of 01/02/2010)
Eyewitness Travel Guide to Jerusalem & the Holy Land
Amazon Price: (as of 01/02/2010)
Streetwise Jerusalem Map - Laminated City Center Street Map of Jerusalem, Israel - Folding pocket size travel map
Amazon Price: $7.95 (as of 01/02/2010)
Photos from Jerusalem
Deep Thought
A-OK
Church of the Holy S...
Nature Mort
In Shock at the Holy...
Ethiopian Orthodox T...
Italian Tourist (8of...
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The Line-Up
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An ass in Jerusalem.
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