Watercolor Batik

You will need:
* Waterproof board (like masonite or gatorboard)

* Plain Newsprint

* Japanese Paper (like masa, kinwashi, mulberry, or experiment on others in this category).

* Permanent Ink Pens (fine line pen is best)

* Wax Paper

* Transparent Watercolor Paint

* Watercolor Brushes

* old or cheap brushes

* Paraffin and beeswax

* A variable temp. skillet or slow cooker used only for art.

* Clothes Iron

* Newspaper

On the newsprint, draw out your subject. Darken the outline of the subject. Lay the Japanese paper on top of your drawing and trace with the permanent pen.

Next, lay wax paper on top of the waterproof board. Just enough to cover it completely. I often will tape this down on the edges with masking tape (it isn't necessary, but helpful). Place your paper on top of this and start getting the wax ready.

Place your paraffin and a small amount of beeswax into your variable temperature skillet or slow cooker (my preference) to melt. Put in as much as you want as the wax can stay in the cooker after you are done and melted again. As you use the wax and feel like you need it to go on smoother, just add more beeswax. Just add a small amount at a time. You usually don't need much.

Note: make sure that you keep the wax on a low temp. Too high and it could catch on fire.

Painting on this paper can be tricky. I say it is a intermediate technique because you have to be able to control how much water is in your brush. Too much water will cause the paper to bleed too much. I don't mind some bleeding of the paint (it gives it character) but you should still be able to control it somewhat. This takes practice.

I usually start painting my center of interest. I will also paint those areas that are the lightest. Remember with this technique you CANNOT get back to the white of the paper. Using opaque paint will muddy the painting and is not recommended. Once the light areas are painted and you feel like that part is "finished" then start painting the wax on those areas only. Use the old brushes for the wax. The hot wax will ruin your good brushes. It also helps to have the melted wax fairly close to the painting. Keep dipping and painting until the entire area(s) are covered. Continue this way and finish with the darks. After you feel that the painting is finished, place the wax on the dark areas as well. Make sure that the entire painting is covered in wax.

Now that the painting is completely covered, you have to now take the wax off. Before you start to iron, check for errant drops that have landed on top of the wax in areas you do not want paint. Don't be too worried about all the little paint spots, but those spots will end up in the final piece even though it is on top of the wax.

Place several layers of newspaper down on the ironing board. Make sure there is enough down that it completely covers the painting. Place the painting on the paper and then lay several more newspapers on top. Set the iron on hot (cotton) and iron on top of the newspapers. Check several times while ironing and change out the newspapers as they soak up the wax. Keep doing this until you have almost no wax coming out onto the newspaper.

If you decide to mount the painting at home, use a non-acid PVA glue on a non-acidic backing board (matboard is one option). First mark the painting on the backing board to get the general size of the painting. "Paint" the glue with a sponge brush on the board. Place the painting on the board carefully. Try not to get any air bubbles or squash the painting. It will be permanent if you aren't careful. Let it air dry.

At this stage you can still make minor adjustments. You can add paint but you cannot subtract paint at this stage. The paint has to be added a little at a time.

After you are satisfied either frame it yourself or take it to a framing store.

Congrats! Now find a place to display it!