Ravenous Recipes: West Coast Chowders

Though the East Coast and New England in particular are the steeped in chowder culture and traditions, the West Coast is no slouch when it comes to chowder.

When you combine the earthy passion for cooking stemming from the movement that grew out Alice Water's Chez Panisse with the fantastic seafood harvested from the Pacific Ocean you get damn good chowder.

The recipes you'll find on this page represent the best of chowder on the West Coast. They are representative of chowders you'll find up and down the coast, the beginnings of a defined tradition.

West coast chowders start with West Coast ingredients: wild salmon, razor clams, gaper clams, and dungeness crab. They tend to show the influences of the Italians who settled in San Francisco and Seattle. They often have garlic, carrots and red bell pepper, none of which show up much on the East Coast.

They are further embellished with the influences of Mexican cooking, chiles, cumin and coriander find their way into many recipes. You can even find Asian influences in others.

If you find this lens useful, please take a moment and give it star rating.

Thanks - M.B.

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Getting Around the Ravenous Guide

*The Ravenous Homepage
*The Ravenous Guide to Clams -coming soon
*The Ravenous Guide to Chowder
*Ravenous Recipes: East Coast Chowders
*Ravenous Recipes: Gourmet Chowders

Seafood Safety and Sustainability

OceansAlive.org: Great resource for check for health warnings on seafood as well as sustainability issues. - Please check your ingredients before you go shopping:

Clams - Salmon - Halibut - Crab - Abalone - Scallops - Mussels - Shrimp/prawns
Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch: Monitors sustainable fishing issues.

BOOKSTORE: Sustainable Seafood

One Fish, Two Fish, Crawfish, Bluefish: The Smithsonian Sustainable Seafood Cookbook

by Baldwin Cc, Carole C. Baldwin, Julie H. Mounts

Amazon Price: $23.10 (as of 10/08/2008)
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RECIPE: Fort Clatsop Salmon Chowder

All over the Pacific Northwest, you will find salmon chowder recipes using smoked salmon, this one is somewhat unusual for the inclusion of sweet potato and fennel, as well as it's lack of milk or cream.

The recipe comes from Mary Gunderson's book "The Food Journal of Lewis & Clark". People have pointed out that her recipes are not likely recipes that Lewis and Clark prepared on their expedition but rather, modern recipes using ingredients that they encountered. At first I found the inclusion of fennel suspect, but did a little snooping around and found that it was in fact a vegetable that L&C encountered in the Columbia River Basin. Of course the Corps of Discovery wouldn't have had milk or cream either.
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* 4 cups vegetable or chicken broth
* 1/4 pound smoked salmon
* 1/2 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and diced
* 1/2 cup sliced fennel
* 1 small onion, peeled and chopped
* Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
* 1 tablespoon chopped fennel fronds
Yield: Serves 6 to 7

Bring the broth to a boil. Stir in the salmon, potatoes, fennel and onion. Add salt and pepper to taste. Return to a boil. Cover and reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Sprinkle with chopped fennel fronds and serve immediately.

Note: Fort Clatsop is near the Pacific Ocean in Oregon.

-- From the "The Food Journal of Lewis & Clark," by Mary Gunderson

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RECIPE: Smoked Salmon Chowder

This recipe is adapted from Cecilia Nibeck's book Salmon Recipes. As housewife and mother in Alaska she has collected about a zillion recipes for putting Alaska's abundant salmon to use and they are all in this book. This is solid recipe in an otherwise mediocre cookbook. In addition to it's call for fresh herbs, what's striking is the recipe's use of horseradish to garnish the chowder.

* 3 TB butter
* 1 small onion, small dice
* 1 large celery rib, small dice
* 2 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, 1/2" cubes
*2 TB Flour
*1 1/2 Cups Fish Stock, Clam Broth, or Chicken Stock
*1 TB fresh Italian Parsely, chopped
*1 fresh Bay Leaf
* 1 TB fresh Thyme
* 1/2 LB to 1 LB boned Smoked Salmon, 1" chunks
* 1 1/2 Cups Milk
* 1/2 Cup Heavy Cream
* Kosher Salt and fresh ground Black Pepper
* 2 TB fresh Chives, chopped
* prepared Horse Radish

1. In a medium to large pot, cook onion in butter 5 minutes. Add celery, cook 5 more minutes. Add potato and cook 5 more minute. Add flour and cook for 3-4 min.s stirring to keep from browning.

2. Slowly pouring in 1/2 broth or stock while stirring to avoid the flour lumping. Add remaining liquid with thyme, bay leaf and a few grinds of black pepper. Bring to boil and add milk and cream. Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are tender, 10 min. Add salmon and parsely. Heat salmon through, 2-3 min.

3. Serve in bowls, garnish with chives, fresh cracked pepper and 1/4 to 1/2 tsp of horseradish.

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RECIPE: Puget Sound Salmon Chowder

This recipe comes from The Junior League of Seattle and is adapted from The Western Junior League Cookbook. The inclusion of green pepper, carrots and garlic is no surprise given the role of Italians in settling Seattle. Given Italians role in the seafood cuisine of San Francisco and the fact that Ciopino worked it's way up to Seattle way back in the day, this chowder definitely has a West Coast flavor.

* 1 LB fresh salmon filet. Cut into 8 pieces.
* 1/2 Cup Celery, chopped
* 1/2 Cup Yellow Onion, chopped
* 1/2 Cup Green Pepper, chopped
* 1 clove Garlic, minced
* 3 TB Butter
* 1 Cup Yukon Gold Potatoes, diced
* 1 Cup Carrot, shredded
* 1 Cup Chicken Stock
* 1 Cup Milk
* 1 tsp fresh Dill
* 1 Kernels for 3 Ears Corn on the Cob, or 2 Cups Frozen Corn
* 1 13oz. can Evaporated Milk or 1 Pint of Heavy Cream
* Kosher Salt and fresh cracked Black Pepper to taste

1. In a medium to large pot, cook celery, onion, and garlic in butter over medium heat until onion is soft and translucent, 5 min.

2. Add chicken stock, potato, carrot, and black pepper. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to simmer for 15 min. When potatoes are tender, add corn, salmon, 1/2 the dill, and milk or cream. Simmer for 5 min. stirring. Chowder is done when salmon flakes apart. Adjust seasoning with Kosher salt.

3. Serve in bowls, garnish with remaining dill.

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RECIPE: Marc's $20 a Bowl Grilled Salmon and Corn Chowder

This is an entree chowder that puts Wild Northwest Salmon at the center. Grilled Salmon is served over corn chowder.

For the Chowder

* 2 TB Butter
* 6 oz. cooked Bacon chopped
* 2 yellow Onions - small dice
* 1 Leek - chopped
* 2 TB Flour
* 4 Cups Chicken Stock
* 1 Pint Heavy Cream
* 6 ears of fresh Corn cut from the cob
* fresh cracked Pepper
* 2 tsp Paprika
* 3 TB Italian Parsley - chopped
* 2 TB Chives - choppped
* 2 TB fresh Dill

1. In a large pot over medium heat cook onion. When onions are soft and starting to sweeten add leeks. After 5 min. stir in flour. Cook for 2 min. stirring so that flour doesn't stick.

2. Stir in chicken stock so that flour does not clump. Bring to a boil and skim froth. Add corn, black pepper, and paprika. Reduce heat to a simmer. After 5 min. add heavy cream. Simmer for 10 min. Remove from heat and add half of the parsley, dill, and chives.

For the Salmon

* 4-6 6oz. Wild King or Chinook Salmon filets, skin on
* 1 egg, beaten
* 1 TB Granulated Garlic
* 1/4 Cup Soy Sauce
* 1/2 Cup Pineapple Juice

1. Mix egg, garlic, soy sauce and pineapple juice. Dunk salmon or marinate for 20 min.

2. Grill salmon over medium hot coals to medium rare.

Ladle chowder in to bowls. Place salmon on top of chowder, garnish liberally with fresh herbs.

[for Marc's $24 a Bowl Grilled Salmon and Corn Chowder add a generous pinch of saffron to the chowder when you add the cream]

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RECIPE: California Chowder

From John Doerper's invaluable Shellfish Cookery:
.
It seems that almost everywhere you eat in California these days, you will find chiles in your soup. I even found them in several clam chowders. When taken in small doses, chiles can add a pleasant tang to the chowder.

* 1/4 Cup Salt Pork - chopped
* 1/4 Cup Shallots - chopped
* 2 Poblano Chiles - roasted, peeled, seeded and diced.
* 1 Cup Clam Liquor
* 1 Cup Potatoes - diced
* 1 Pint freshly shucked Clams - chopped
* 1 Cup whole Milk
* 1 Cup Cream
* Kosher Salt and freshly ground Black Pepper
* Chopped Cilantro for garnish

1. Fry salt pork over low heat until lightly browned. Add shallots and cook until translucent.

2. Add chiles, clam liquor, potatoes, salt and pepper; cook until potatoes are tender, 15 min.

3. Add clams. Cook for 5 min.

4. Add milk; heat, stirring constantly. Do not boil.

5. Add cream; reheat carefully. Do not bring to a boil or the cream will curdle.

6. Pour into individual serving bowls, garnish with cilantro.

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BOOKSTORE: Shellfish Cookery

Shellfish Cookery: Absolutely Delicious Recipes from the West Coast

by John Doerper

I can't brag about this cookbook enough. Published in 1985 this book written by Seattle Times food critic John Doerper covers in detail everything you need to know to find and work with shellfish on the West Coast. Chapters include: Abalones & Limpets; Sea Snails & Escargots; Mussels; Oysters; Clams, Horse Clams & Geoducks; Octopi & Squid; Crabs; Crayfish; Spiny Lobster; Shrimps; and finally Barnacles. I mean this book COVERS it !!! Each chapter starts with information about it's chosen critter, where to find it, different varieties, how to work with it and then moves on to very well written, sound, delicious recipes. This is my kind of cookbook.

- M.B.

Amazon Price: (as of 10/08/2008)
List Price: $12.95
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RECIPE: Horse Clam Chowder

Again From John Doerper's invaluable Shellfish Cookery:

The horse clam is a good clam to eat if you can't get geoduck. Just remember that its flavor will not be as fine as that of the geoduck. That makes little difference if you use the horse clam in the dish it is most suited for: chowder. Be brave and try it.

* 2 LBs chopped Horse Clams
* 3 1/2 Cups cold Water
* 1/4 LB Salt Pork, diced
* 2 large Onions, chopped
* 4-6 Garlic Cloves, minced
* 1 Cup Celery or Lovage, finely diced
* 2 Anaheim Chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded and diced
* 1 1/2 Cups hot Milk
* 1 1/2 Cups hot Cream
* 1 tsp fresh ground Black Pepper
* Kosher Salt to taste
* Borage Flowers for garnish

1. Place clams in a saucepan. Cover with cold water. slowly bring to boil. Simmer for about five minutes. Strain, reserve liquid.

2. Combine salt pork, onions, garlic, celery in saucepan. Gently saute for about 3 min; do not brown. Add reserved broth, clams, chiles, and season with pepper.

3. Remove from heat; slowly stir in milk and cream. Garnish with borage flowers.

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RECIPE: Chilkat Clam Stew

This recipe from Gordon Nelson's fine "Lowbush Moose (and other Alaskan recipes)" isn't technically a chowder, but it's so easy that I couldn't resist tossing it in.

Serves 2

* 24 live Steamer Clams
* 1 Pint Heavy Cream
* 2 TB Butter
* Kosher Salt and fresh cracked Black Pepper
* Oyster Crackers

1. Bring a quart of water to a boil, add the clams, and steam for 4 to 5 min. Drain clams and remove them from the shells. Discard any clam that didn't open, they were dead going into the water. Carefully strain and save the liquid from the clams, discarding the last few tablespoons, as that's where the sand will be.

2. In a pan combine clams, 3/4 cup of clam liquor, cream and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a near boil and remove from heat.

3. Place a tablespoon of butter in the bottom of each bowl. Pour hot clam stew over butter. Serve with oyster crackers.

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RECIPE: Nelson Clam Chowder

From Gordon Nelson's "Lowbush Moose (and other Alaskan recipes).

* 24 Steamer Clams or 2 8oz. cans of chopped clams
* 2 Cups Clam Juice from steaming the clams or drained from the cans
* 2 Onions, chopped
* 4 TB Butter
* 2 Potatoes, peeled and diced in 1/4 inch cubes
* 2 slices Bacon, chopped
* 2 Carrots, peeled and sliced thin
* 1 TB Soy Sauce
* 1 13oz. can of Evaporated Milk or 1 1/2 cups of Whole Milk
* Kosher Salt and fresh cracked Black Pepper

1. Steam clams in 1 quart of water and remove from shells, discarding unopened clams. Strain the liquor. Save the liquid.

2. Saute onions and bacon in a TB of the butter in your chowder pot. When the onions are translucent, add the clam liquor, potatoes, carrots, soy sauce and black pepper. Simmer until potatoes are tender, 15 min.

3. Add milk, clams and remaining butter. Bring chowder to a near boil, take it off heat and let it rest for 5 min.

4. Serve with sourdough bread

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RECIPE: Razor Clam Chowder

Razor clams are one of the key treats of the Pacific Northwest coast. This simple recipe comes from an old plastic spiral bound cookbook Pacific Northwest Cookery. First published in 1971 it consists largely of recipes drawn from various publications produced by the Washington State Department of Fisheries.

The recipes tend to be the simple homecooking type recipes of the period. The kind that get compiled in community cookbooks like Junior League and church cookbooks. Most are sound, few are inspired. What is interesting is that it provides one of the better snapshots of Pacific Northwest cooking. It also has informative step by step black and white photos on how to clean and filet or steak salmon, sole or halibut and cod or rockfish.

Good stuff.

Adapted from Pacific Northwest Seafood Cookery:

Serves 6

* 4 slices bacon,finely diced
* 1 Pint minced Razor Clam meat, undrained
* 1 Onion, finely chopped
* 3 Potatoes, diced
* 1 Quart Whole Milk
* Kosher Salt and fresh ground Black Pepper

1. Fry bacon until golden brown. Brown onion slightly.

2. Add clams and potatoes. Cover just barely with water. Simmer until potatoes are tender, 15 min.

3. Add milk and seasonings. Bring chowder to a near boil and serve.

RECIPE: Native Clam Chowder of the Pacific Northwest

A Taste of Oregon, the cookbook of the Junior League of Eugene,OR first published in 1980 reprints this expert from Oregon: The End of the Trail, 1951.

The Indian method of making clam chowder was to soak the clams overnight in a fresh water stream, and then throw them into a hollowed log containing water heated to the boiling point by hot stones. After they had opened, the clams were scraped from their shells and replaced in the water, together with chunks of jerked or smoked venison, dried wild onions, and wapato roots that the squaws had gathered in dry lake beds.

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RECIPE: Cockle Chowder

From John Doerper's invaluable Shellfish Cookery:
.
When using cockles in chowders, add them raw, coarsely chopped, a few minutes before the chowder is done. This keeps their flavor at its peak and avoids toughening the meat further by overcooking.

* 1/4 LB Salt Pork, diced
* 1 medium Red Onion, coarsely chopped
* 2 cloves Garlic, minced
* 1 Potato, cubed
* 2 Cups tomatoes (meaty, red, yellow or both) seeded and chopped
* 2 Poblano Chiles, roasted, peeled and seeded
* 2 Cups Cockle meat, chopped
* 1/2 tsp fresh Thyme or 1/4 tsp dried Thyme
* Kosher Salt and fresh ground Black Pepper to taste - or substitute nuoc mam instead of salt

1. Place salt pork in a deep, heavy saucepan and cook slowly, rendering the fat.

2. Add onion, garlic and potatoes; simmer for 15 min. and then add tomatoes and chiles.

3. Add cockle meat, thyme and seasonings. Simmer for 3 min.

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RECIPE: Oyster Chowder

Adapted from Pacific Northwest Seafood Cookery:

* 1 Pint of Oysters
* 1/2 Onion, chopped
* 3 TB Butter
* 1 Can Evaporated Milk
* 1 Cup Clam Juice
* 2/3 Cup Celery, chopped
* 2 Cups Potatoes, diced
* 1 Quart Whole Milk
* 2 TB Fresh Italian Parsely, chopped
* Kosher Salt and fresh cracked Black Pepper

1. Fry onion in butter until slightly brown, add clam juice, celery, potatoes and pepper. Cover and cook until potatoes are tender, 15 min. Add milk and let come to the boiling point.

2. Simmer oysters in their liquor about 5 min. or until edges curl. Drain and combine with the milk and vegetables. Adjust seasoning.

3. Serve immediately. Garnish with parsley.

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BOOKSTORE: Pacific Northwest Seafood Cookery

Pacific Northwest Seafood Cookery

by Stan Jones

First published in 1971 this cookbook consists largely of recipes drawn from various publications produced by the Washington State Department of Fisheries.

The recipes tend to be the simple homecooking type recipes of the period. The kind that get compiled in community cookbooks like Junior League and church cookbooks. Most are sound, few are inspired. What is interesting is that it provides one of the better snapshots of Pacific Northwest cooking. It also has informative step by step black and white photos on how to clean and filet or steak salmon, sole or halibut and cod or rockfish.

Good stuff. - M.B.

Amazon Price: $14.95 (as of 10/08/2008)
List Price: $14.95
Used Price: $1.64

Pacific Northwest Seafood Cookery

Amazon Price: (as of 10/08/2008)
List Price:
Used Price: $0.64

RECIPE: Abalone Chowder

Adapted from Pacific Northwest Seafood Cookery:

* 4 slices of Bacon, diced
* 6 slices of Abalone, diced
* 1 Potato, peeled and diced
* 1 small Onion, minced
* 1 1/2 Cups of Clam Juice, heated
* 3 Cups of whole Milk
* 1 TB Butter
* Kosher Salt and fresh cracked Black Pepper

1. Cook bacon until brown in a 2 quart saucepan. Drain off all but 2 TB of fat.

2. Pound the abalone thin and dice it. Add the abalone, potato and onion to the bacon and fat. Cook until onion is golden brown.

3. Add clam juice and simmer until potatoes are tender, 15 min. Add milk and butter, stir, season with salt and pepper.

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RECIPE: Northwest Crab Chowder

Adapted from Pacific Northwest Cooking Secrets:

* 4 slices Bacon, diced
* 2 TB Flour
* 3 Cups Whole Milk
* 1 Potato, diced
* 2 TB Onion, diced
* 1 clove Garlic, minced
* 1 Cup Tomato Sauce
* 1/2 tsp fresh Basil, chopped
* 1/4 tsp Cumin
* 1/4 tsp Marjoram or 1/2 tsp fresh
* 1/4 tsp Cayenne Pepper
* 2 Cups flaked Crab meat
* 1/3 Cup dry White Wine
* Kosher Salt and fresh cracked Black Pepper
* chopped fresh Chives and/or Italian Parsley

1. In a large saucepan or soup pot, saute the diced bacon and onion. Reserve the bacon bits for garnish. Pour of all but 2 TB of drippings.

2 Over medium-low heat, add flour and garlic and cook for 3 min. stirring constantly.

3. Add milk slowly, stirring so that the flour doesn't lump. Cook until smooth and slightly thickened. Add the wine, potatoes, tomato sauce, herbs and spices. Cover and simmer until potatoes are tender, 15 min.

4. Add the crab meat. Heat through and adjust seasoning. Garnish with bacon bits and chives and/or parsley.

Original recipe by Irene and Mark McKinley, Orcas Wine Company - Eastsound, WA

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RECIPE: Puget Sound Seafood Chowder

This is an excellent recipe for a seafood chowder that is typical of recipes that you will see originating from Seattle and the Puget Sound area.

Follow the link for variations on this recipe.

* 2 TB Olive Oil
* 1 Yellow onion; peeled and diced
* 2 Carrots; peeled and sliced
* ¼ tsp Crushed Red Pepper Flakes
* 1 Pint Homemade Fish Stock or Clam Juice
* 3 TB fresh Tarragon or Basil, chopped
* 2 stalks Celery, thinly sliced
* 3 Yukon Gold Potatoes, peeled and cubed
* 16 fresh Mussels; 1 pound
* ½ Cup dry White Wine
* 1 LB medium Prawns, peeled and deveined
* 4oz fresh dry Scallops - (most scallops are soaked in water containing sodium tripolyphosphate which causes them to retain more water)
* 1 ½ Cups Heavy cream
* 4oz Ling Cod, cut into 2" pieces
* 3oz Hard-smoked Salmon
* 1 TB Lemon juice
* Kosher Salt
* 2 TB fresh Italian parsley, chopped

1. In a medium saucepan, saute onion in oil over medium heat, until translucent,5 min. Add carrot, red pepper flakes, and fish stock, cover and cook until carrots begin to soften, about 10 minutes.

2. Add herbs, celery, and potato, turn heat to low, and simmer for 10 more minutes so the flavors will blend.

3. Meanwhile, poach mussels in wine for 5 min. Strain nectar into stock. Pick the mussels from their shells and set aside.

4. Add prawns, scallops, and cream to chowder and simmer until chowder thickens slightly, 5 min. Add fresh fish, smoked salmon, and lemon juice, and cook 3 min. Adjust seasoning.

To serve, ladle into warmed bowls, garnish with Italian parsley, and serve. Yield: 4 servings.

RECIPE: Mussel Chowder

Three of the five upscale cookbooks that I own relating to Northwest cooking have similiar recipes for mussel chowder. In the interest of contributing to a coherent tradition of Northwest Cuisine, here is a recipe for mussel chowder that synthesizes all three.

* 2 LBs Mussels, scrubbed, bearded, dead mussels discarded.
* 3 Cups Fish Stock or chicken stock
* 1 Cup Dry White Wine
* 1 Stick (1/4 Cup) Butter
* 1 Onion, diced
* 1 Leek, chopped
* 3 cloves Garlic, chopped
* 1 Red Bell Pepper, finely diced
* 1 Large Potato, diced
* Kernels cut from 6 Ears of fresh Corn or 3 Cups frozen
* Pinch of Saffron
* Kosher Salt and fresh cracked Black Pepper
* 1 TB fresh Chives, chopped
* 2 TB fresh Italian Parsley, chopped

1. In a large pot bring stock to a boil. Steam mussels in stock, 4 min. Remove mussels, scoop meat and coarsely chop. Reserve cooking liquid.

2. In another large pot, cook onions, leek, garlic and red pepper in butter over medium heat until onion is tender and vegetables just begin to brown.

3. Add reserved cooking liquid and potatoes. Bring to a boil and reduce heat. Simmer until potatoes are just tender, 10 min. Add corn, wine, saffron and black pepper, simmer 5 min. Add heavy cream and parsely, simmer 5 min. Adjust seasoning with Kosher Salt.

4. Serve in bowls, garnish with chives.

The three cookbooks that inspired this recipe are:

The Northwest Best Place Cookbook by Cynthia Nims and Lori McKean

Oregon's Cuisine of the Rain by Karen Brooks

Great Meals from the Northwest by Judie Geise

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