The Wonderful World of Sewing and Quilting

The last trip I made to Hancock Fabrics was a few weeks ago. I needed to pick up a couple of items, but as usual, I walked out spending about $140. One of the items I bought was a DVD from Hip Line Media.

Hip Line Media Presents A Simple Quilt is very good DVD for anyone who wants to learn how to make a quilt. It is almost like sitting in a classroom with a teacher teaching you what to do to get from the beginning to the end.

My best friend and I have watched it completely through once and halfway through a second time. We are taking notes so we understand each step a little better.

Susie Tilton is the host of this DVD. She is a professional designer and educator. She goes through each steps and makes it very easy to understand. She tells us exactly how much fabric is needed and how many colors.

She will show you which tools you need, how to cut the fabric pieces, and how to assemble each piece, including the batting and backing.

I personally could never get the hang of binding a quilt by reaading all the "how to's" in magazines and books. The minute that Susie showed me how to do quilt binding on this DVD I understood it.

I highly recommend Hip Line Media DVDs to anyone who wants to learn anything about sewing and quilting. These DVDs are about $25, but well worth the money. You can learn to make pajamas, handbags, pants, home decor as well the quilt.

You can visit their website at www.hiplinemedia.com

Do you have a skirt that is just a little too short? If it's suitable to this remedy, try sewing ruffled or flat eyelet around the hem. Choose eyelet that is long enough to lengthen the skirt to a decent length and that doesn't have too many holes in it.

I topstitch it when I do this, but the main thing is to make sure that you pin it on so that the edging or raw edge doesn't show. (If you are using flat eyelet, I would suggest zigzagging the raw edge first to help keep it from unraveling. If it is cut in a zigzag, you may want to trim it so that it is straight.) Also, do not cut the end! I have found out from experience that it's better to leave the extra eyelet on and sew toward it. This way, if /when you get "extra" skirt hem starting to bunch up as you sew around, you will have the extra eyelet you need to make up for it. Work the extra skirt hem down as you go. When you get to the end, the excess eyelet will be there to keep you from running out before you can make a seam allowance

Leave some un-sewed space at the beginning. When you get to the end, cut it with enough excess to make the "seam." Fold this back and place the extra from the beginning behind it so that you have a clean fold on the front. Finish sewing it on making sure that your stitching overlaps where you started enough to keep it from coming undone. Then, top stitch the seam in the eyelet down from the hem to the edge. Back stitch at both ends. Trim off excess seam allowance if desired or needed.

-- Mary Van Nattan

http://www.blessedquietness.com/journal/homemake/sewing.htm

Teresa G. of Texas says she cuts up clothes she and her husband have stopped wearing and makes them into clothes for kids. The scraps she saves for making baby quilts.

A string quilt-- Save the narrow scraps from cutting out woven fabric clothes, quilts, and projects for making a string quilt. You can use cheap muslin for the "stabilizer." Cut it into squares, rectangles, or long strips the length of the quilt size you want. The strips may be the most practical. Sew your first piece on in the middle or at one end. The middle is handier since you can sew on two pieces before you have to iron. Lay the next piece face down on the first one. Sew it on with a narrow hem. If you started in the middle you may wish to sew a third piece on to the other side of the first one before ironing. Be sure to iron your pieces flat before proceeding to the next piece or pieces! The pieces will not all be straight across, some will be diagonal. You'll have to work it out so it comes out right, and make sure that you sew the piece on so that it will cover the muslin all the way across from side to side! Use your imagination in organizing the colors. You may sew pieces on with the "straight" running a different direction than vertically IF you have your muslin cut so that the straight is going the right direction. The nice thing about this project is that you can work on it over a period of time as you collect scraps from your sewing. The scraps should all be of a similar thickness, but not necessarily exactly the same. Be sure your fabric is all pre-washed! Also, ask a sewing friend for her scraps if she doesn't want to make a quilt like this. When you assemble the quilt you may wish to sew strips (or squares or rectangles) of a solid color fabric between the string strips (or squares or rectangles). I have not gotten this far yet, but I plan to use fabric that is a similar thickness to the thickness of the muslin with the fabric sewed to it. Use however much or little batting you want, and backing to suit your tastes. You may quilt or tie it.

Mary VN

If you have questions please email us, so that we can fix the directions if necessary. :-)

Candace writes: I am presently in the process of making a table runner from yo-yos. I have old material and have been gathering buttons and putting them on each yo-yo and sewing them by hand together. Looks unique and pretty.

[HMC Editor's Note: If you don't know how to make a yo-yo, here are some basic directions. Use a plastic margarine lid for a pattern or make your own circle pattern. The finished yo-yo will be less than half the size of the circle you cut so figure accordingly. Thread a needle and make a substantial knot in the end. To hem the yo-yo fold over about a quarter of an inch, folding as you go. Sew with a running stitch. When you get back around to the knot where you started, pull the knot and the end with the needle. Gather the yo-yo up and press it flat with your fingers so that the gathered hole is in the middle of the circle that you have pressed. Make sure it is pulled tight, then tie it off well and clip the threads. Yo-yos can be used for a number of things from quilts to decorations. Yo-yos made in different sizes can be used to make flowers. To make leaves to go with them take a circle cut in the color you wish and fold it in half. Iron if you wish. Fold the 2 corners down to the center of the arch forming a quarter of a circle with the 2 folds running down the middle. This is the top (unless you prefer the other side). Sew along the arched edge as directed for the yo-yo, only when you come to the opposite end from your knot end simply gather it without pulling the knot at the other end. Tie it off and trim thread. This edge will have to go under the edge of a yo-yo so that the raw edge and sewing do not show.]

http://www.blessedquietness.com/journal/homemake/sewing.htm

What do you do with your scrap fabric that is left over from your most recent sewing project? Do you throw those little pieces away or do you save them to use in a quilt? I have always thrown them away unless they were fairly large pieces that I could use to make yo-yos or squares, or even stuffed animals.

On one of the quilting shows in DIY a few weeks back, there was a lady on that was using the left over strips and making blocks from those little pieces. It got me to thinking about all that small stuff I had thrown away.

Well as luck would have it, at a yard sale a couple of weeks ago, I bought several boxes of fabric and fabric scraps. Some of them were sewn into quilt blocks of various types, i.e. nine patch, strips, etc.

I think that this is great as I have been wanting to some kind of crazy quilt and it will be a great way to start. I can use the blocks that are already made and make them into pillows. The rest I can just sew together as the mood hits me and make my crazy quilt. I might get it done in the couple of years and have it for my daughter's bed for Christmas. Wish me luck!

These are some really great tips.

Save a thread-thread a needle

Here's what I do to make use of long strands of thread: I keep a pincushion of needles handy when I'm sewing. When I'm ready to remove a spool of thread from my machine, I clip the thread at the spool and pull the thread out of the machine through the needle. Then I take that strand and thread it through one of the hand needles in my pincushion. Whenever I need to baste, make tailor's tacks, sew on a button, snap, or hook and eye, I have an assortment of threaded needles all ready to go.

-Karen Wolff

Taken from "Tips" in Threads magazine, March 2005, issue No. 117, p. 18; © 2005 The Taunton Press, Inc.

Binding with fusible thread

I use fusible thread in my bobbin for flawless binding applications. With the fabric right-side down, I sew along one side of the binding. I align the unstitched edge of the binding to the garment edge and sew it right-sides together to the garment. Then, I fold the bias and turn it over the edge so the fusible is folded under next to the fabric on the wrong side of the garment. I press the edge of the bias tape to cover the previous stitching line. The fusible thread holds the bias in place while I flip the garment back to the right side. I then replace my bobbin with regular thread and topstitch through the binding edges.

-Michele Brakewood

Taken from "Tips" in Threads magazine, September 2005, issue No. 120, p. 14; © 2005 The Taunton Press, Inc.

One-woman hem-marking device

To mark a hem without a helper, I stretch a string tautly across a doorway at the desired hem height and tack or tape it to the jamb on both sides. I then dust bath powder onto the string. With the unhemmed garment on, I brush lightly against the powdered string, which transfers a light dusting onto the garment at the correct height. I can then remove the garment and finish the hem, and it will be perfectly parallel to the floor. This works great for skirts, dresses, and coats.

-Bonnie Wheaton

Taken from "Tips" in Threads magazine, November 2005, issue No. 121, p. 18; photo: Sloan Howard. © 2005 The Taunton Press, Inc.

Sewing inspiration from old movies

As creative dressmakers, we are always looking for inspiring new ideas, or a new twist on an old one. Keeping a scrapbook of garment pictures is one way to stir one's imagination. I also like to sketch interesting garment details while watching movies at home. Movie costumes of the '30s and '40s (especially those by Edith Head and Adrian) often have appealing style lines and unusual dress detailing that can give your wardrobe a custom-made look. Keep a sketch pad and pencil next to your remote control-it might just make all the difference on your next sewing project.

-Hélène Muriel Doyle

Taken from "Tips" in Threads magazine, November 2005, issue No. 121, p. 20; © 2005 The Taunton Press, Inc.

Wicked Witch" test for wool

To determine if fabric is 100 percent wool, soak a small swatch of it in chlorine bleach for about eight hours. If the swatch dissolves completely, is significantly smaller, or has clearly disintegrated, it's all wool, not a blend. Some wool fabrics have finishes that inhibit the action of the bleach and may not disintegrate entirely-if in doubt, try washing a swatch thoroughly to remove any finishes, then perform the bleach test.

-Laura Ziemer

Taken from "Tips" in Threads magazine, January 2006, issue No. 122, p. 24; photo: Sloan Howard. © 2006 The Taunton Press, Inc.

http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=tipsAndTricks.html

Sewing Terminology

A number of terms used in sewing may be puzzling to you at first. The ones listed below are all defined in their proper places in the book (see the INDEX). In case you should come upon them without their explanation, however, here are some quick definitions.

* Back-tack - A few stitches taken in reverse to secure a line of stitching.

* Bar Tack - A very short thread reinforcement for points of stress

* Baste-marking - Marking with hand- or machine-basting.

* Clean-finishing - Edge of fabric turned under once and stitched. Used on edges of facings, hems, seams, etc.

* Construction stitching - Stitching, such as seams and darts, that shapes and holds a garment together (as distinct from stay-stitching, finishing, etc.).

* Crocking - Color rubbing off.

* Directional stitching - Stitching with the grain in woven fabrics. In knits, stitching all seams in the same direction.

* Ease - The allowance added to a body measurement to make a garment wearable.

* Ease, to (verb) - To attach a fabric edge to an edge that is slightly shorter. When ease-stitching, the longer edge s very slightly gathered.

* Fashion fabric - the outer fabric in a garment.

* Finger-pressing - Opening seam allowances with the thumbnail. Mostly used on fabrics that cannot be pressed.

* Give - the degree of elasticity in a fabric or a thread.

* Grading - Trimming each seam allowance to a different width to reduce bulk and avoid a ridge.

* Hand - The feel and drape of a fabric.

* Interlining - a layer of fabric added to a lining for warmth.

* Miter - The diagonal fold made at the corner in an edge finish, such as a binding, hem, etc.

* Nap - In actual fact, the raised, hairy or downy surface on fabrics such as flannel, etc. In patterns, however, "with nap" means any fabric surface that looks different when held up or down, such a s pile, knits, one-way designs.

* Non-woven fabric - A fabric not woven or knitted from thread or yarn. Non-woven fabrics, include fake leather and suede, felt, various interfacings.

* Notches - Markings on patterns used for matching. They are no longer notches but the opposite-they stand out from the cut edge. Notches cut into the seam allowance may weaken the seam.

* Pivoting - Moving the fabric around with the machine needle in it and the press foot up.

* Pre-shrinking - Shrinking done before a fabric is used.

* Self-fabric - The fabric from which the garment is made.

* Sizing - A starch-like finish, added in the manufacture of some natural-fiber fabrics and rayon. It is water- and steam-soluble.

* Stability - The degree to which a fabric resists pulling out shape.

* Stay - A tape added to a garment part to keep it in shape.

* Stay-stitching - Stitching done inside the seam allowance, before construction, to stabilize curved or slanted edges. Usually done on a single thickness, but also used to attach interfacing.

* Stitching-in-the-ditch -Stitching on the right side through a seam (in the ditch"), to fasten something underneath.

* Test seam - A seam done on a scrap of the garment fabric to test the machine stitch.

* Topstitching - hand- or machine-stitching, either functional or decorative, that shows on the outside of a garment.

* Understitching - a line of stitching along the edge of a facing or undercollar to keep it from rolling to the outside.

http://www.sewing.org/enthusiast/html/el_terminology.html

Threads

Thread may be made of synthetics, cotton, silk, or a combination of these fibers. Like fabrics, threads are often treated with finishes to impart special qualities and improve performance.

* Mercerization, applied to cotton thread and cotton-covered polyester thread, adds smoothness, luster and better dye affinity.
* Glacé finish, used on quilting thread and button and carpet thread, produces a hard, smooth surface, as waxing does.

Synthetic Thread

Synthetic threads today may be cotton-covered polyester, spun polyester, or nylon. These threads provide the strength and elasticity necessary for today's knits, permanent press, and stretch fabrics.

Machine Needles

Check your sewing machine manual for the type of needle you should buy. Some needles, such as those by Coats & Clark, will fit most popular makes of sewing machine-see the needle package. The following needles are standard needles, which vary mainly in the type of point.

* Universal ball-point needles have a special taper, designed for knits and wovens alike.
* Sharp-pointed needles have a special taper, designed for knits and wovens alike.
* Ball-point needles have a rounded point, designed for use on knit fabrics; the ball-point pushes the yarns aside, instead of piercing them,
* Wedge needles have a wedge-shaped point, designed for use on leather and leather-look fabric.
* Twin needles and triple needles have two or three needles joined together with a common body or shank. They can be used on some machines for straight or decorative stitching (see your sewing machine manual).

The correct machine-needle size is determined by the weight of the fabric to be sewn. The numbering system for needle sizes varies depending on the brand-some are numbered according to the U.S. system of sizes, while others are numbered according to the European system.

Change your machine needle often especially when sewing on synthetics. A new needle assures you of no needle damage to fabric. A blunt or burred needle can damage your fabric and thread.

Hand-Sewing Needles

Hand-sewing needles come in ten sizes, from No. 1, very coarse, to No. 10, very fine the following are the most common types:

* Sharps are medium length needles, most commonly used for general sewing. Most other hand-sewing needles differ from them mainly in length.
* Embroidery (also called crewel) needles are exactly like Sharps but have a longer eye for easier threading. They are excellent for sewing.
* Between are shorter needles, good for detailed handwork, such as fine stitching on heavy fabric, as in tailoring. Quilting needles are size 7 Between.
* Milliners are longer needles, best for basting and millinery.
* Calyx-eyed Sharps are open at the top for easy threading. Very helpful for people who have difficulty threading ordinary needles.

Special Needles

The following needles are made for various purposes; the numbering for sizes may vary somewhat from the hand-sewing needles above.

* Beading needles are very fine, long needles, used for bead work and sewing sequins on fine fabrics.
* Tapestry needles are heavy needles with a blunt point for work on canvas, such as needlepoint.
* Chenille needles are similar to tapestry needles but have a sharp point for heavy embroidery on closely woven fabric.
* Clovers needles have a tapered point with three sharp edges to pierce leather without tearing it; used for hand-sewing on leather.
* Darners are long needles, used for basting and darning with cotton.
* Yarn darners are the heaviest needles with large eyes, used for stitchery and darning with yarn.

Special assortments of needles are also available with various straight and curved needles for crafts, upholstery, rugs, etc.

http://www.sewing.org/enthusiast/html/el_threadneedle.html

Using scrap fabrics, sew as many 3" wide strips of fabric together to make long strips (usually about 10 feet long). The more color variations the better. Then sew another strip of the fabric the same length and width (3" wide x 10 feet long). With wrong wides together, sew one inch from one edge. Open fabric up and set in a 10 foot long piece of jute. Sew right next to that (a zipper presser foot works great). Then turn fabric over and do the same with another piece of jute from the opposite edge - same distance. The jute will be used to "gather" the fabric, making the garland. Holding onto the jute thread, push (gather) all the fabric together. Hang around doors or windows or your tree.

Voila! A coaster! Fast and easy and usable right away! Great in holiday fabrics . . .

* Cut 6 - 5" squares from different fabrics or 3 each from 2 different fabrics.
* Fold 4 of the squares in half (2 each of the 2 different fabrics) and press the fold.
* Layer the two remaining squares wrong sides together (optional place a 5" square of cotton batting between the fabrics)
* Lay one of the folded squares on top of the layered squares matching raw edges along the top.
* Lay a second of the folded squares (contrasting if only using 2 fabrics) overlapping the fabric from the first square and matching raw edges along the right edge.
* Lay a third of the folded squares (same as the first if only using 2 fabrics) overlapping the fabric from the second square and matching raw edges along the bottom edge.
* Lay the last of the folded squares (same as the second if only using 2 fabrics). Lift the first folded square so that the first fabric is overlapping and only one half of the folded square shows, match raw edges along the left edge.
* It should look like a four patch, or like this (change to a non- proportional font for figure below):

· ______ ______

· | | |

· | A | B |

· |______|______|

· | | |

· | D | C |

· |______|______|

* Sew a 1/4" seam along all outer edges. Nub the corners. Through the hole in the middle (this will become very clear when you try this) turn the whole thing outside out. Push out the points of the corners.
* Alternatively, you can fold the fabrics in half along the diagonal and layer them the same way except you are matching raw edges on two sides . . . the finished square will look like a quarter square triangle (I'm not sure if I can draw this one!) change to a nonproportional font:

· _________

· |\ /|

· | \ A / |

· | \ / |

· | \ / |

· | B / \ C |

· | / \ |

· | / D \ |

· |/_______\|

Here's how to make an infant bonnet from a hanky, worn as a bonnet for a special occasion, then it is used for a hanky on the then grown up babies wedding day.

DIRECTIONS #1:

1. If you've done a special edging (tatted, etc.) sew that in place with matching thread first.

2. Lay handkerchief flat right side up. Measure 3" from top edge of handkerchief; fold and press, right sides facing. Turn 1 1/2" back to right side; press. Edge of handkerchief should be even with first fold.

3. Turn the front corners back, forming a small triangle. Measure 2" from bottom edge of handkerchief; fold and press, right sides facing.

4. Starch and press bonnet. Gather 1/4" form top edge for bonnet back; pull gathering thread, forming a small circle, tie and trim ends. Sew ends of ribbon under small turned-back triangles at front edge.

DIRECTIONS #2:

1. Iron hanky flat, fold in half and press again.

2. Precut ribbons. Rosettes are from 2 pieces each 5" long, ties are from 2 pieces each 9" long.

3. Boy bonnet: Align borders carefully. Baste border edges together 1/4" from inside edge. Fold back top.

4. Girl bonnet: Align borders carefully. Baste lace edges together just behind hem. Fold back top.

5. Back edge: using double thread, run short gathering stitches 1/8" from folded edge. Pull up snug and tack.

6. Rosettes: using 5" lengths of ribbon, turn one edge under 1/4". Gather along woven edge, pul up snug and tuck raw edge under folded edge. Tack together. Tack on top of each tie.

7. Tack one 9" length of ribbon at each corner of bonnet for ties.

DIRECTIONS #3: These directions were posted for $ .50 beside a pile of handkerchiefs at a store.

1. Turn up the right side of the hankie 2 1/4" for the front of the bonnet and press.

2. Turn up the right side of the hankie 3" for the back of bonnet and press.

3. Along the pressmark, run a gathering thread (on the back).

4. Tack down the back in three places on the hankie along the crocheted edge.

5. Pull up the gathering thread to 6 inches from each edge of crocheting and fasten end.

6. Fasten the two crocheted edges together.

7. Fold the front, making a pleat facing the front of the bonnet to meet the crocheted edge of the back and tack with a ribbon bow and streamer.

POEM #1 TO ACCOMPANY BONNET:

I'm just a little handkerchief,
Quite square as you can see.
But with a stitch or two they made
A bonnet out of me.

For a special baby
loving thoughts and nimble hands,
Created this little bonnet
Of fine cloth and ribbon bands.

As a baby you can wear me
On your head for special days.
Then neatly pressed and folded
I'll be carefully packed away.

On her wedding day a bride must have,
Traditionally, something old...
Good luck, good health and happiness
It will bring her - so it's told.

Then what could be more pleasant
Than to unpack little me.
To snip a stitch or two and find
her handkerchief I'll be.

A groom can also use me,
When he becomes a man.
He'll give it to his sweetheart
When he asks her for her hand.

POEM #2 TO ACCOMPANY BONNET:

I'm just a little hanky
as square as square can be.
But with a stitch or two
they made a bonnet out of me.
I'll be worn home for the
hospital on the blessing day,
Then I'll carefully be pressed
and neatly packed away.

For her wedding day,
so we've been told.
Every well dressed bride must
have that something old.
So what could be more fitting
than to find little me
A few stitched snipped
and a wedding hanky I'll be.

And if perchance it is a boy
someday he'll surely wed.
So to his bride
he can present the hanky
Once worn upon his head.

This is no work of art -- a bunch of fabric or catnip here and there over the surface. It can be done in about one and a half hours.

1. Choose any cat fabric.

2. Cut two pieces each about 22 x 18.

3. Cut a piece of flannel the same size (22 x 18) and place it on the wrong side of one of the fabric pieces

4. Sprinkle catnip over the flannel and top it with the other piece of cat fabric right side up.

5. Machine baste the edges all around to keep the catnip from drifting out

6. Machine quilt at 2 inch intervals up and down and side to side.
Add binding which can be applied totally by machine.

Materials:

1. 6" Yo-Yo circle of fabric

2. 3" Yo-Yo circle of fabric

3. small bell, star button, or other Christmas-y button

Put 3" the circle of fabric on top of the 6" circle. Sew together with a bell or a button at the center. You have an EASY Christmas ornament. Metalic fabrics look very nice.

These are simple and cute (sort of a cross between country and quilty) and best yet, are easy to carry in a ziploc bag in your purse to work on while waiting for concerts to start, while picking up kids, in doctor office, etc. I just guessed at size of circles, and am using a 2" circle (which makes into a 3/4" head), a 3" circle (which makes into a 1 1/4" middle), and a 4" circle (which makes into a 1 3/4" bottom circle) for the snowmen. I am using muslin scraps for the snowman. Make the three yo-yos, using doubled thread for strength, tack together with a slight overlap between three yo-yos in your traditional snowman lineup. I am cutting a tophat out of black felt and gluing on top yoyo for a hat, and cutting a scrap of red and green fabric (a small plaid) in about a 3/8 to 1/2" strip x 4" size and tying it around the neck of the snowman. Put a hanging string through top edge of top hat and makes an ornament for either tree or decorating packages with that is about 3-3 1/2" tall. Also will go into xmas cards for sending small gifts to distance friends that are unbreakable and light. For a quilter or sewer, they are basically free because we can use scraps to make them, and they are turning out cute.

I get sewing tips in my email from Singer and this was one of those tips. Hope it helps with your next sewing project!

Facings
Sew interfacing to the facing with RIGHT sides together in a 1/4" seam. Then trim the seam to 1/8" wide, and then turn right side out. Next, press the facing flat before sewing to garment. If you used fusible interfacing, the pressing will also fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the facing fabric.

Hems
When pressing narrow hems, begin by spreading a sheer pressing cloth on your ironing board. Lay the edge you want to press over the pressing cloth, leaving 4" or more of the cloth showing. Align a piece of card stock (a file folder works perfectly) along the fold line. Fold the pressing cloth over the card stock edge and press the edge. The pressing cloth holds the tiny hem in place, allowing you to iron it without burning your fingers.

Darts
When you're 3/8" from the point when stitching a dart, shorten the stitch length and stitch off the point. Lift up the presser foot, reposition the needle inside the dart tip, and stitch for 1/2". This way you secure the dart point without bulk or handiwork.

Getting Started

Preshrink fusible interfacing before cutting out pattern pieces. Place interfacing in hot water for 20 minutes, or until the water has cooled. Spread interfacing flat to dry.

Zipper Tips

Extend a long zipper past the waistline edge and trim it to the correct length after attaching the waistband. If your zipper has metal teeth, pull them out with pliers in the area you sew over.

Belt Loop Help

To prevent skipped or snarled stitches when you sew over belt carriers, use a small roll of fabric under the heel or toe of the presser foot to keep the foot parallel with the feed dogs.

Well, we are at the final stages of making your quilt complete. Let us get started.

Iron your completed quilt top. Measure the width across your finished top; make down on a piece of paper. Measure the length and also mark this down. For an example I will use the measurement of of 36 1/2" x 36 1/2" but make sure you follow your measurements.

CUT your backing fabric the size of your quilt top PLUS 2 1/2". So for example, I would cut my backing piece 36 1/2" PLUS 2 1/2" to make it 39" x 39".

Do this exact measuring for the batting and cut to your size.

You will now sandwich your quilt, not the kind you eat silly, but a quilt sandwich. Place your back fabric on the floor making it nice and flat, lay down your batting right on top making it nice and straight with the fabric, place the top of your quilt on top leaving the 2 1/2" on all sides.

Now we will baste it. Take a needle (ask mom or dad first) and take a nice bright colored thread and make it about the length of your arm. Starting at one corner, carefully go through all the layers starting at one corner to the other, then opposite corner and across being very careful not to move your quilt. Use big stitches, as this will be taken off when you are done with your quilt.

This is step one of Binding. Fold the raw edges of the backing over 1/4" and Press with your iron. Do this for all four sides.

Second Step: Bring over the front of the quilt, overlapping the quilt top 1/4". Now fold the opposite side next. You then fold the top and bottom. you can pin these and sew on your machine.

CONGRATULATIONS! You have now made your first quilt. I hop you have as much fun making this quilt as I did!

It is now time to put your quilts together. Place your blocks in front of you in rows of three.

You see the space between your blocks? You will be placing "Sashing" between each one. You will take the fabric you have chosen to finish your quilt and cut 6 pieces of sashing (width 3" and the length is 10 1/2").

Now take your first block and the right side is facing you. Place your first sashing piece and place it right side facing you beside your block. Now flip your sashing piece onto your block (right sides together). Pin together at the top and bottom.

Now do this for all nine pieces. When you have pinned all these and are all lined up you are ready to do your first sewing.

Ask mom for a small piece of scrap fabric and place on your machine asking mom where the 1/4" line is. Now, grab both threads and hold them up and away from you and start to sew the scrap fabric a couple of inches. Place your first block and sashing o the machine nice and straight and sew down to almost the end, (Do not cut or take off) place your next block and sashing and continue sewing until all have been done. You can cut off all the threads that are between the blocks now and press your seams towards the blocks.

You will now put the sashing between the rows. Your strips will be 3" wide and 36 1/2" long. Once again, take the right side of your sashing and flip it over the right side of your blocks, your first row should now have three blocks with two sashing pieces in between them.

You will sew two of these, one between the first set of rows and then one between the second and third row. Press lightly. This is your finished quilt top.

This is a good project for parents to help kids with.

Supplies:

1 Yard of muslin, 36" wide, white if possible

1 Yard brown paper bag, you may use parcel wrapping paper

1 package fabric crayons

1 Yard freezer paper

Instructions:

Wash your fabric in warm water. (PARENTS SUPERVISION) While ironing your fabric please try not to stretch it and using too much steam will also cause this to stretch.

You will now cut. PARENTAL SUPERVISION: they may use a rotary cutter or scissors. Your ruler needs to be at least 12" long. If you have a 12 1/2" x 12 1/2" square ruler this would do nicely. Cut 9 squares, the size of your squares is 10 1/2" x 10 1/2".

At this time you will also cut your freezer paper the same size as your blocks. Place your fabric on the shiny side of your freezer paper and iron down. This will give the fabric stability for drawing.

Using your crayons, draw a different picture on each block you have cut. The harder you press with your crayons, the deeper the picture will look. If you wish to draw on a piece of paper first to see what it would like first, this would be a good idea. Now use your imagination. Here are a few ideas but I just know you are all so talented and will make wonderful drawings.

Halloween, yhour house, flowers, cartoons, pets, family, school, food, etc.

Once you have all your blocks done you will seal your picture. Take your brown paper; place down on your picture andiron back and forth pressing hard. Lift your paper up and move to a clean piece of paper and iron again until you see no crayon marks lifting onto the paper. You do this for each block you color.

Now to keep your pictures nice and flat until the next lesson place a piece of paper on top of each block and stack them. Put a book on top.

Once you have finished coloring your blocks you will need to pick a color of fabric you wish to use to finish your quilt and we will be sewing in your next lesson.

A big welcome to future quilters, you are entering a world of fun. Until next time, have fun with your crayons, imagination and talent. Don't forget to give mom and dad a hug and tell them you "love them"!

How to Make a Yo-Yo Doll

Yo-yos are gathered, lightly stuffed circles of fabric that are used to make ornaments, clothing decoration and many other craft projects. This cute little doll is a great way to use up scrap sewing and quilting fabrics.

Steps:

1. Gather your fabric scraps and refer to the directions given in the "Make Yo-Yos" section of the "Make Yo-Yo Wreath Ornaments" eHow (see Related eHows). Make 7 yo-yos out of 8 1/2-inch circles, 14 yo-yos out of 7 1/2-inch circles, and 14 yo-yos out out of 5 1/2-inch circles.

2. Use scissors to cut out a small slit, 1 to 1 1/2 inches long, at the center of each fabric circle before assembling the yo-yos.

3. Cut two 6 1/2-inch circles out of stretchy knit fabric. Sew the circles together (right sides together) stitching about 1/4 inch from the raw edges. Leave a 1-inch space unstitched.

4. Draw and cut four small stocking shapes out of a brown or black knit fabric, and cut four mitten shapes out of the same fabric used in step 3. Stitch these shapes, right sides together, to make two hands and two feet.

5. Turn the circle right side out and stuff with polyester fiberfill or batting. Hand sew the opening closed. Do the same for the feet and hands.

6. Take two pieces of 1-inch elastic and hand or machine sew a foot to each end. Sew at the tops of the foot shapes. Slide seven medium-size yo-yos onto each piece of elastic and five large yo-yos over both.

7. Take another piece of 1-inch elastic, about 8 inches long, and place it between the two existing pieces of elastic. Pin the two elastic pieces together so that the third piece remains in place. String seven yo-yos onto each end of the third piece of elastic and sew a hand onto each end.

8. Remove the pins, but keep hold of the two free ends of the elastic and place two large yo-yos over both ends. Pull the elastic so that the yo-yos that make up the doll's neck, torso and legs fit snugly together.

9. Trim any excess elastic and sew the two ends of elastic to the bottom of the doll's head. The elastic should be trimmed to a length that allows the yo-yos to stay in the position reached in Step 8.

Tips:

Use flesh-colored knits for the head and hands. Use a brown or black knit for the feet.

Make the hands and feet about 3 1/2 inches long and about 2 to 2 1/2 inches at the widest points.

Stuff the head with fiberfill until the desired head size is achieved. The same goes for the head and feet.

Embellish the head with embroidery for the eyes, nose, cheeks and lips. You can also use buttons to simulate these features.

Stitch yarn onto the doll head for hair or apply purchased doll hair to the top of your doll's head.

Woo Hoo!! I finally did it! I just finished my final Yo-Yo Quilt this afternoon! Yippee!! Now Christmas is complete for two people. That is a huge amount of work off of me for the moment.

I still have a ton of work to do, like getting my craft room finished up, making a baby blanket for the new baby (Hurry up Sept. 11 so I can hold my new grandson!!), and a quilt for my granddaughter. Yes, she has informed me that she has to have a quilt for her bed made by me. Go figure!! LOL

At least now my quilting won't take over the living room now because I am done with the hand sewing. Well, at least for the time being anyways. I plan on using the sewing machine for the rest of the quilts that need to be done.

Now, do I do the denim quilt or do I make Crazy Quilt? Hmmm...I have the needles and the thread for the denim, but I still need room to cut the jeans up. I also have a two totes full of scrap fabric that would be perfect for the Crazy Quilt. Hmmm...decisions, decisions, decisions!!!

I have finished up two Yo-Yo Quilts now. I am halfway finished with number three. The first Yo-Yo Quilt was made using two-inch Yo-Yos. The second two are made using four-inch Yo-Yos.

These quilts, or coverlets, can be made very easily with or without the Clover templates. You can use anything round to make a template. I personally have a circle cutter from Olfa that I use.

I simply figure out how big I want my quilt to be so it will fit on the bed. I measure the bed from head to foot and from side to side making sure to leave enough room for the hangover. The size will depend on how much youwant hanging over the side of your bed and how much you want to cover.

Once I have the size figured out, I decide how large I want to make my Yo-Yos. I then multiply the size of the finished Yo-Yo by the number I think it will take across to make the right size. For a four-inch Yo-Yo, I used 26 across and 26 down, for a total of 676 Yo-Yos. This means my quilt is 104" x 104" square.

I made my initial circles 8 1/2 inches around so the finished size is four-inches. Once I have all my circles cut, then I turn the edges under about 1/8" to 1/4" inch and start sewing the circles, gathering them in the middle and knotting them. I have seen them knotted in the front, but I always knot them on the back (the flat side). They seem to hold together better that way. I then sew them all together to make the quilt.

Here is a picture of the first quilt I made using the two-inch Yo-Yos. This is a very simple quilt to make, it is just time consuming the smaller the Yo-Yo. I would suggest that you bid on some on ebay so you can actually see how the Yo-Yos are put together. I recommend ordering from sewcrafty2003. She can be found here: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZsewcrafty2003

I hope that you will try and make your own Yo-Yo Quilt and revive this lost art.

About two or three months ago, I decided to order some Yo-Yo Makers through Clover. They finally got here! I had to wait on them to be released for sale before they could be shipped.

Now I can make two different sized hearts and flowers. I can hardly wait to finish up the quilts I am on to start using these!

You can find them here: http://www.clover-usa.com/dyn_search.php?q=yo+yo

I have found a great website for free quilt block patterns.

The web address is: http://www.quilterscache....

It gives the directions, paper piercing, cutting directions, etc. It looks like it might be good one. There are 24 patterns on the first page and I am not sure how many more patterns there are in this website.

Happy quilting!

I finally got my Yo-Yo Quilt finished on May 24th. Anyways, it took me about a year to work on this quilt. I had to start off by buying some yo-yos off of ebay so I could actually see what they looked like when they were sewn. (I didn't want to take apart my Yo-Yo Clown doll that I have because it is older than me.) Once I got some in, I bid on some more just to get a small head start on them. I then used a bunch of my leftover scraps and remenants to make well over 3,000 of the silly yo-yos. Once I had those all made, then came the arduous task of sewing them all together. After the quilt got so big, I had to start sewing them together in "blocks" of so many across and so many down. Those "blocks" then got sewed into "strips" and then sewn onto the quilt.

I was bound and determined to finish my quilt before summer got here so I could take into the school office and show the women in there what it looks like. I sewed for three days straight every chance I got (when not driving the bus or getting tires). I finally sewed the last strip in place last night about 8:45 PM. I am so happy that it is over and done now.

Now I will get start on some other projects that need to be finished before I start sewing another quilt. Both of my girls want me to make quilts for them, so I think that I will make two more yo-yo quilts in queen size for them. Only this time, I will not be using 2" yo-yos. I will make them bigger so I don't have as much sewing to do since it is all hand sewn. I hope to be able to finish those my next Christmas for their presents!

The finished size of my quilt is 108"x108". The ones I am making now will be about the same size, but use 4-inch yo-yos rather than 2-inch.

The other day I was cutting out more circles for yo-yo quilts that I am making for my two daughters. Everything was going along just fine. I got most of the fabric ironed and was in the process of actually doing the cutting, when my cutter's handle broke! I was in quite a quandry because the only other circle cutter I have doesn't cut circles quite as big as I need.

I have searched for two days making two different trips to Hickory, NC just to try and find the type I needed so I could send mine off to be repaired. I knew that Hancock Fabrics carried them, but of course, just because I need it, they are out. I checked several other places and no one carried them.

Finally, I broke down today and called Michael's Arts and Crafts as a last ditch effort. I didn't figure they would have them since they don't really carry much in the way of sewing equipment. Boy was I wrong! They still don't carry much sewing equipment, but they did have about four of the OLFA Rotary Circle Cutters. I bought two of them and four blades. That should tide me over until I can send my other one off to be repaired or replaced.

While I was searching, I did check online at www.olfa.com. . They have some great craft projects for both sewing and paper projects. I hope that you will check them out. I printed out several projects to make at a later date. I will file these in my sewing binder, for future reference.

I was just looking through my recent McCall's Quilting magazine and came across the section entitled "Our Editors' Picks".

They are advertising something called Rule Your Rulers Hanger. It is from June Tailor. I went online to to the website to find out the price. http://www.junetailor.com/ (you can look at it under the Rulers and Mats section of the website.) It looks like a rounded belt hanger, and I have one of those!

It is $4.99 plus $8.90 for shipping and handling. That is a total of $13.98! It is a great idea to have something like this, but I think it would be cheaper just to go out and buy a belt hanger and hang your rulers on it!

I have been working on my Yo-Yo quilt and realized that I will way to many yo-yos. I have decided to try and find a new use for them and came across this. Yo-Yo Angels. They are so cute and easy to make. I did have to buy the gold wire and the plugs. I also bought the beads because I didn't feel like picking through all of my beads to find the right color for the hair. (Yes, I was being lazy.) I bought the pin backings, but have since lost them. I guess I will have to go back and buy some more. Good think I can always use them! LOL

http://www.craftsayings.com/projects/small_gifts/yo_yo_angels/index.shtml

Happy crafting!

I tried on my dress pants the other evening to make sure they would fit for this afternoon's funeral that I will be attending. Alas, my pants are way too long to be worn without walking on the hems of the legs!

I figured that I would have to get together with my best friend and have her pin them up so I could sew them. When I was telling a co-worker about my dilemma, she said that she always used the Iron-on Hem Tape. (She used to be a prison guard and she hemmed all the guard's pants this way and that it stayed very well.

So off to Wal-Mart I went last night. It was actually quite easy to adhere to the material and you can't even tell that there is not a sewn hem. (Most dress pants have a blind hem anyways.) I missed one spot, so I simply cut another small length and attached it and it was done. You can't feel the Iron-on Hem Tape either.

Just thought you would like this quick tip for fixing a hem in a pinch when you don't want or have the time to drag out the sewing machine and atcually sewing the hem up!

Craftaholics Anonymous
12 Step Program
Newly Revised to 13 Steps
© 2001 by Shirley Thomas @ CraftSayings.com

1. I will not stuff craft supplies in every corner of my house.
2. I will not keep nine projects going at one time.
3. I will not pick up more buttons, lace or fabric when I have a ton at home.
4. I will not let my crafting area look like a condemned area.
5. I will not relegate the kitchen table to crafts.
6. I will not attend craft shows just to pick up more ideas.
7. I will not stock up on more craft supplies just because they are on sale.
8. I will not go off on a tangent when anyone mentions that little word "import ".
9. I will not let my crafting distract me from fixing dinner.
10. I will not stay up all night crafting.
11. I will not save dryer lint, empty cereal boxes, detergent scoops, etc.
12. I will not buy every craft magazine I see.
13. I will not make promises I cannot keep. See you at the craft show.

http://www.craftsayings.com/projects/gag_gifts/craftaholic/index.shtml

Made to be Broken...Sewing rules that have changed with time
by Sandra Betzina, Scripps Howard News Service

If your mom taught you to sew or your first experience in sewing came through a home economics class or 4-H Club, you can now rest assured that some of the hard and fast rules preached at that time no longer apply. New technology in fabrics and sewing machines has made many of these rules obsolete. Here are a few:

Never cut fabric on the crossgrain:
False. If the fabric is stable in both directions, the fabric can be cut lengthwise, crossgrain or bias. Fabrics such as Lycra blends stretch on the lengthwise grain. Whenever cutting out pattern pieces from a stretch fabric, the stretch of the fabric always goes around the body. Therefore a woven Lycra blend should be cut on the crosswise grain.

Always sew from the bottom up:
False. Prevent stretching by always sewing with the more stable fabric on top. When joining an interfaced jacket front to a non-interfaced back, sew with the more stable or interfaced piece next to the presserfoot . The feed dogs will ease in the non-interfaced piece to fit the stable one.

Pull the thread off of the top of the machine when changing threads:
False. Pulling the thread from the top puts stress on the tension system. Instead , clip the thread at the first guide and pull out the thread through the needle.

Cut excess pattern tissue away on the outside of the solid black line on the pattern pieces:
False. For pattern pieces to fit together properly , the entire black line should be cut off at the cutting stage.

For fabrics that ravel, serge off raveling threads before garment construction :
False. Use care when serging. If you serge off 1/8 inch to neaten up the raw edge, reduce your seam allowance to one-half inch when sewing or your garment may end up too small.

Seams that join are always the same length:
False. Two joining pieces may or may not be the same length. For example on pants, the back inside leg seam is cut shorter than the front inside leg seam to pull in and create shaping under the seat. Start by pinning the seams even at the beginning and end of the seam, placing pins on the shorter side. Also pin at the knee so that the front and back are sewn together at a 1:1 ratio from the knee down. Ease the seam lengths together between the crotch point pin and the knee pin. Sew with the longer side against the feeddogs so that they will ease the longer side to the shorter side.

Never sew across pins:
True and False. Sewing across pins causes a drag on the bobbin, weakening the seamline. When stress is put on the seam the weakened spot is the first to pop a stitch. On the other hand, cross pinning where two seams join is the only way to prevent the seam from shifting.

Schmetz needles cannot be used on Singer machines:
False. Schmetz needles can be used on all conventional sewing machines except for the Singer Slant Needle model.

Never cut paper with your good sewing scissors:
False. Cutting through tissue paper and fabric is the only way to prevent shifting and preserve accurate cutting of slippery or unstable fabrics such as chiffon and rayon.

If you wear a size 10 in ready-to-wear, you will take the same size in a pattern:
False. Ready-to-wear and pattern sizes do NOT correspond. A size 12 ready-to-wear is a size 16 pattern.

Learning to sew takes years:
False. If you really love to sew and are willing to devote six hours a week to it, you will be an accomplished seamstress in about a year.

(Columnist, sewing expert and author Sandra Betzina is host of Sew Perfect and owner of Power Sewing. Send e-mail to powersew@aol.com or write to Power Sewing , 95 Fifth Avenue, San Francisco, Calif. 94118.)

http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,,HGTV_3352_1389751,00.html

Here is a website that has some free sewing projects. These are easy to do whether or not you have a surger. I don't, but maybe some day...

Anyways, have fun with this site.

http://www.ericas.com/projects/

Altering a Pattern

Sew Perfect : Episode SEW-224

Having clothes that fit is one of the big reasons people sew, but it's also one of the biggest problems faced when sewing. Clothes that don't fit properly won't hang right, so it's important to be armed with knowledge before altering. Before you start altering sizes you should know that:

1) Pattern sizes don't relate to ready-to-wear sizes and
2) Patterns run differently - some by measurement, some by size.

Before you begin sewing, here's how to properly record your measurements.

High bust - begin measuring high under the arm and flat across the chest, pulling taught

Full bust - across the fullest part of the bust

Waist measurements - around your waist

Tummy measurement - This measurement isn't usually on patterns, but it's very important. Tie a cord around your waist. Then, drop down approximately 2-1/2 inches to three inches from the cord and measure around your tummy. Also record how far down from the cord you dropped so that you can do the same on the pattern.

Hip - always measure the fullest part of the hip
Back waist - start at the bone at the base of your neck and measure all the way down to your waist To determine what pattern will be best, go by your high bust measurement. Say you measure 38" in your high bust, you'll need a size 16 pattern. However, you are going to need to make some adjustments. Follow this chart.

*You are dividing by four because you have two side seams and two pieces that meet.

Adding to the Hips
Find the area for the hips on the pattern. Going down one side of the pattern, add 1-1/2 inches all the way down the pattern. Working from hips to waist, curve back into the waist on the pattern. Repeat on the other side of the pattern.

Adding to the Tummy
To determine how much room the pattern has at the abdomen, fold pattern at center from waist to hem, and pin any darts. Then, drop down the side seam three inches. Now, seam allowance away from seam and measure across the front of the pattern. Do the same for the back of the pattern. Add the two measurements together and multiply by two to get the total allowance for the tummy. Sew Perfect host Sandra Betzina's rule is "you + two." You don't want the tummy to be tight, so allow two inches for ease. To do this, add a little at the side and/or take a little out of each dart.

Back Waist Line
Turn to the back of the pattern package and follow the instructions for lowering or raising the waistline.

Bodice
To add 1/2 inch at the bust, 1/2 inch at the waist, and 1-1/2 inches at the hip, sketch in extra room for all three points to add fullness to the pattern. Do this to the front and back of the pattern.

Armhole
If you've added to the front and back, do the same to the sleeve.

Lowering Darts
How do you know if the dart is too high? Measure yourself from top of shoulder to center of the bust. Go back to the pattern and find the dot on the pattern near the dart - this is called the apex. Measure from the top of the pattern's shoulder to the apex. Say the pattern is 10-1/4 inches and you need 11 inches; lower the apex by drawing another dot 3/4 inches down. Lower the dart 3/4 inches also by cutting out the dart and original apex and sliding them on top of the apex you just drew. Fill any holes in the pattern with paper.

Ready to Wear
If you have purchased a blouse that you love and have found a similar pattern, before you start cutting your pattern, follow these steps.

Measure your ready-to-wear blouse from center of neck in back all the way down to the bottom of the blouse.

Turn to the back of the pattern and look for finished length. There might be a big difference between these two measurements. You can add up to two inches to the length of the blouse pattern without changing the look.

Next, measure the width of crucial areas, such as the hips and stomach, on the ready-to-wear blouse. Measure the pattern to determine if any room needs to be added.

http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_sewing_alterations/article/0,,HGTV_3322_1376850,00.html

Mending & Repair Sewing

Sew Perfect : Episode SEW-323 Stitches

To camouflage mismatched buttonhole sizes, hand-stitch the outside edge of the larger buttonhole to match the size of smaller hole. Sew a small button over the hand stitching as camouflage. Stitch a second small button at the edge of the small buttonhole to match the other hole. Sew buttons to opposite front of the garment as directed by pattern.

To hide a snag in a favorite garment, line up the side seams of the garment and create an identical flaw opposite of the accidental one. Next, mend both snags to look like part of the original garment design detail. Accomplish this by cutting small pieces of interfacing to fit over each snag. Fuse interfacing over each tear on the wrong side of the fabric. Cover the tear on the right side of the fabric with a buttonhole design.

Mix 1 tablespoon of white vinegar with 1 cup of water to use as a spritz for pressing difficult fabrics. If seam will not press open, try flattening stitch by running a decorative, zigzag or a blanket stitch centered along the seam line.

Cover the edges of small pocket with decorative stitching. Tip: Mark pockets 1/4" on the inside of the pattern marking to avoid creating pockets that don't cover the transferred marks.

Use pocket flaps to camouflage problem area such as uneven welt pockets. Use coordinating fabric for the collar to tie the look together.

Measure your waist measurement minus 3" to 5" to replace elastic in elastic waistbands,. If the elastic band is a thin width with more elasticity, the length should be cut minus 5". If replacing a wide band fabric, cut the length minus 3".

To repair sweater snags, turn the sweater wrong side out and gingerly pick at the snag with a needle to gently tug the threads back into the fabric. Do not pull or cut the threads from the right side of the fabric as this will cause unraveling.

Use a disposable razor to occasionally shave the pills away from the fabric to get rid of sweater pills.

Stains

Before trying any stain remedy, test fabric on the underside of the hem to ensure the method will not hurt the fabric.

If you prick your finger and bleed on garment fabric while hand stitching, wet the blood-stained fabric immediately with saliva. It works better than water or detergent due to similar enzymes in blood and salvia.

To remove pencil marks from garments, stir up a mixture of one part ammonia and one part water, and rub over pencil mark.

To remove pen marks from manmade fibers, spray pen mark with hair spray. Allow hair spray to sit for a few minutes then rub to remove ink.

To remove perspiration marks, mix equal parts vinegar and water in a spray bottle. Spritz the mixture on the mark and allow to sit for a few minutes.

http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_sewing_other/article/0,,HGTV_3330_1376956,00.html

Sewing Machine Care

Standard Sewing Machines

Keep the sewing machine manual where it can always be found. It is full of valuable information about your machine. Manuals usually include a section on maintenance.

Some sewing machines require oiling. Check with the machine manual to see whether or not your machine needs oil. Sewing machines that require it should be oiled after every eight hours of use. Machines that are used infrequently should be oiled before each use. To oil the machine, take the cap off the part of the machine housing thread guides, needle and presser foot. Use oil that's been manufactured especially for sewing machines. Dab oil into the small round holes in the throat plate. Turn the hand wheel to view which parts of the machine move. Oil all the moving parts. Place a dab of oil on the needle bar as well.

When changing the light bulb in a machine, let the old bulb cool. Some machines come equipped with a light bulb sheath that fits over the bulb to loosen it. This accessory, available from fabric and notion stores, allows the bulb to be changed without waiting for it to cool.

Purchase good-quality thread. Less expensive, fuzzy thread creates lint that ends up inside the machine.

Change needles after every project to avoid puckered seams, skipped stitches or pulled fabrics. Use the appropriate needle for the fabric type being sewn.

Computerized sewing machines

Use a surge protector to guard computerized sewing machines from abnormal electrical currents caused by lightning and various other sources.

Clean the computerized sewing machine by brushing under the throat plate and the bobbin. Brushes are typically provided with the machine. Don't blow into your sewing machine. For more thorough cleaning, use a mini-vacuum attachment on a regular vacuum cleaner to pull lint and debris out of the needle area.

Use a soft cloth to clean inside the tension discs.

For machines with metal tension discs, use a needle lubricant if desired. Machines with rubber tension discs are not good candidates for needle lubricants because the lubricant can damage the rubber.

Some older machines cannot tolerate magnetic pin holders. Check with the manufacturer of the machine to make certain that magnetic devices won't injure the computer board.

As always, good-quality threads and needles are essential components of sewing machine maintenance. Remember to change the needle after every project and use good-quality thread to cut down on lint and stray fibers.

Computerized sewing machines are self-lubricating and do not require oiling, but the machine should be turned on frequently in order for it to self-lubricate. Even if you're not sewing frequently, turn the machine on periodically as a part of its maintenance.

Sergers

Sergers need both cleaning and oiling. Be sure to clean the serger thoroughly using either the lint brush that comes with the machine, the mini-vac attachment or canned air.

Serger threads are typically fuzzy. Use a soft cloth to frequently clean between the tension discs.

Replace serger blades occasionally. Keep replacement parts such as light bulbs, needles, etc., on hand.

Change needles often on the serger.

To oil the machine, turn the hand wheel and oil all the responding moving parts. Oil once for every eight hours of use.

Purchasing a machine

Shop around. Buy from an established retailer who will teach you how the machine works.

Buy the best-quality machine that you can afford without going over your budget.

Take thick fabric scraps with you to try machine techniques on more difficult fabric.

Used machines are often a good option for those on a limited budget. Also, many sewing machine retailers offer trade-in plans with some purchases, allowing you to trade in your old machine on a new one if you decide to upgrade.

WHAT TO DO IF...

IF MACHINE DOES NOT SEW: Make sure the plug is properly connected into wall outlet Check to insure that the clutch release knob is tightened after winding bobbin.

IF A MACHINE DOES NOT SEW PROPERLY: Check upper threading making sure thread is through the tension thread dial. Check lower threading making sure thread is snapped into the tension spring. Always make sure presser foot is lowered before starting to sew. Be certain that stitch length is set according to the stitch you selected. Insure that needle is not bent. Needle clamp screw may be loose. If this is the case, the upper and lower thread will not form a lock stitch.

IF NEEDLE BREAKS: Always make certain that the presser foot is the correct one for the stitch being sewn. The flat side of the needle should face toward the back of the machine. Machine may not be threaded correctly. Guide fabric gently through machine: pulling excessively will cause the needle to bend and then break. Check that the tension is set between 4-5.

IF LOOPS FORM ON FABRIC: Tension on upper thread or lower thread may be set incorrectly. Insure tensions are not too loose.

IF FABRIC PUCKERS: Tension on upper thread or lower thread may be set incorrectly. Insure tensions are not too tight. If the bobbin case is not properly set into the shuttle, the thread will jam. Check to make sure that the bobbin case is inserted tightly and cannot move from side to side. Again, use the correct needle size in combination with the fabric.

IF MACHINE DOES NOT WIND BOBBIN: Make sure the bobbin winder shaft is pushed to the right. Make sure the clutch release knob is loosened.

IF UPPER THREAD BREAKS: Examine the following: Upper threading Bent or improper insertion of needle. Check tension setting.

IF LOWER THREAD BREAKS: Examine the following: Lower thread may be entangled in shuttle Bobbin is not threaded properly in bobbin case Lower thread tension may be too tight Always clean lint from shuttle area

IF MACHINE SKIPS STITCHES: Examine the following: Needle may be bent, dull or inserted backwards Check that the correct needle size is used in combination with the fabric Check upper threading Remove needle plate and brush clean any lint accumulation

IF MACHINE DOES NOT MAKE BUTTON HOLE: Check to make certain that the buttonhole foot is attached. Carefully follow the instructions in your owner's manual. Every machine functions differently for making a buttonhole.

This is a great site with some good tips. I even found a Dressmakers Measurement form and a form so that I will remember what fabric I have, how much, etc. This will make life easier when I start buying fabric again.

http://www.sew-help-me.com/

Here is a website that has a free downloadable program for sewing. It is a neat little program and gives you patterns to actually sew.

http://www.wildginger.com/products/wildthings.htm

Happy sewing!

Stress Bags for sore aching muscles.

Stress Bag - a lovely gift to make.

You need a piece of fabric about 15 inches long and 6 to 7 inches wide. The best types of fabric are cotton or toweling. Fold material in half and stitch around the edges leaving the end open. Tuck edges in and stitch down the middle of the bag. Fill each tunnel with rice (not the quick cook type). Stitch the end closed. Warm by placing in microwave for 1 or 2 minutes. Check as temperature depends on your microwave. To use cold - place in Ziploc bag and put in freezer for 2 hours or more.

~Here are some poems to attach to your stress bags~

This little pillow filled with rice, Is such a comforting device.
Microwave for 1 to 2 minutes on HIGH
and kiss those aches and pains goodbye.
Apply it to the troubled spot,
The heat will ease the pain a lot.
Or warm those little toes, so cold.
You'll find this nice to have and to hold.
Or freeze it for a little while,
And fix that boo-boo up in style.
Instead of a compress made of ice,
Use this pillow filled with rice.

OR

Top to toes, front to back.
There are many uses for this little pack.
Tired and weary, feel like heck?
Heat and hang it 'round you neck!
Headache coming? The kind you dread!
Take it from the freezer and cool your head!
Who can sleep with ice cold feet?
This little friend can warm your sheets!
Aching back, sprains and strains?
Use this pillow to ease your pains!

As I was looking through my sewing bookmarks, I stopped and took a look some of the tips, hints and tricks at this site. I'd have never thought about some of these. There are tips going back several years. Many of these are very good.

http://quilt.com/Hints.html

Someone asked in another article about a rag garland with dried fruit. I found this site to make a rag garland with stockings. It really is cute.

http://www.mschollie.com/garland.htm

Happy crafting!

Do you have a skirt that is just a little too short? If it's suitable to this remedy, try sewing ruffled or flat eyelet around the hem. Choose eyelet that is long enough to lengthen the skirt to a decent length and that doesn't have too many holes in it.

I topstitch it when I do this, but the main thing is to make sure that you pin it on so that the edging or raw edge doesn't show. (If you are using flat eyelet, I would suggest zigzagging the raw edge first to help keep it from unraveling. If it is cut in a zigzag, you may want to trim it so that it is straight.) Also, do not cut the end! I have found out from experience that it's better to leave the extra eyelet on and sew toward it. This way, if /when you get "extra" skirt hem starting to bunch up as you sew around, you will have the extra eyelet you need to make up for it. Work the extra skirt hem down as you go. When you get to the end, the excess eyelet will be there to keep you from running out before you can make a seam allowance.

Leave some un-sewed space at the beginning. When you get to the end, cut it with enough excess to make the "seam." Fold this back and place the extra from the beginning behind it so that you have a clean fold on the front. Finish sewing it on making sure that your stitching overlaps where you started enough to keep it from coming undone. Then, top stitch the seam in the eyelet down from the hem to the edge. Back stitch at both ends. Trim off excess seam allowance if desired or needed.

-- Mary Van Nattan

http://www.blessedquietness.com/journal/homemake/sewing.htm

Organization Tips
Sew Perfect : Episode SEW-518

Organization Tips from author Lynne Farris:

Store components of each sewing project in a laundry basket. Use large baskets to keep all the items for each project together. Baskets also work well to store fabrics as well.
Use fabric covered foam boards to pin up pattern pieces.
Try using an expandable drying rack as hanging storage for crushable fabrics or interfacing. Once fabrics are on the rack, fold the rack up and store it again the wall.
Store spools of ribbons, trims and braids in a wall paper tray. Lengths of guttering can be hung on the wall and used in the same manner.
Check your notions department for a magnetic bobbin holder. The bobbin holder keeps metal bobbins upright so thread color is visible.

GUESTS:
Lynne Farris
Craft designer, author and owner of Lynne Farris Designs
Website: www.lynnefarrisdesigns.com

http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_sewing_tips_techniques/article/0,,HGTV_3336_1376983,00.html