The zebra finch originates from Australia and is found throughout most of the country. Wild populations has been introduced in various parts of the world but do not appear to pose a threat to indigenous birds, other wildlife or agriculture.

All zebra finches you will find being sold are captive breed. Australia has strict wildlife import and export restrictions and most countries, including the US prohibit the importation of wild birds for the pet trade.

Zebra finches have been kept as display and pet birds for centuries. Some consider the zebra finches found in pet stores domesticated although this is a hard word to define.

The cage you buy for your zebra finches will likely be your largest one-time expense. No worry though- a good cage will last a very long time and make care duties easier. Chances are if you already purchased your bird's cage it may be too small. The minimum size of a cage for a pair of zebra finches is approximately 24" x 24" x 24". Anything smaller will lead to limited movement, lack of exercises and ultimately poorer health.

The cage bars should be made of metal and either stainless steel, chrome, brass or epoxy coated. Whatever the finish it needs to be rust resistant and cleanable. Wood, bamboo and other porous materials are not acceptable- they absorb moisture and can become a home for disease, mold and even pests. Avoid painted cages and surfaces. Although not made or sold in the United States, lead based paint is still found in some parts of the world and if used on a cage can kill your birds.

The base and tray of the cage is best if deep. This catches seeds, seed hulls, droppings and other debris while keeping it from falling or being blown out of the cage. The base should have a pull out tray so you can easily change the paper when it becomes soiled. A grate between the birds and the tray is also useful to keep the birds out of the mess and keep them in the cage when you remove the tray.

Spacing of the bars of the cage needs to be about 3/8". Multiple doors are great to have for putting things into and taking things out of the cage. Dishes should be plastic or metal for durability and ease of cleaning. 3 dishes are preferred- 1 for food, 1 for water and an extra for treats and grit.

Perches usually come with cages but I advise in buying more. Vary the size or shape of the perches for the comfort of your zebra finches feet. Imagine living your entire day and night wearing the same pair of shoes! Extra perches are also useful when cleaning off ones that have been in the cage. You should let the perches dry before placing them back into the cage. Do not buy sandpaper perch covers- they contact the nails AND the delicate bottoms of the birds feet- ouch!

There are many other options you will see when shopping for a cage for your zebra finches. 1st look for adequate size. Then examine the cage for construction and features. Remember, the cage will be the home for their life- give them the best you can afford.

A good, varied diet is key to having healthy and happy zebra finches. Zebra finches are primarily seed eaters but will also enjoy and benefit from other foods. Select a seed mix that looks fresh. More and more seed sellers are putting dates on the food packages so you can easily tell how old it is. Look for bagged or sealed canned food and avoid boxed other open container foods.

Seed can go stale over time. Seeds are a living thing just awaiting moisture to spring to life. The bottled up nutrients of a seed are just what your birds need for nourishment. Sprouting a pinch of seed in a shallow tray of dirt is a special treat your birds will love!

Nutritious greens such as dandelions, kale, spinach, broccoli and the like are also great treats to add some variety to your birds diet. Lettuce has little nutrition and should be skipped as a treat. Small bits of other vegetables and fruits are also very good treat choices.

You can buy treats for your zebra finches such as millet spray (bird seed still on the vine), seed trees and sticks, and special seed blends.

Other essential dietary items include a calcium source. A cuttlebone is a good choice but a calcium block can also be used. Some people use dried egg shells from the kitchen but you need to make sure they are clean, dried and sterilized before offering them to your birds. 1 minute in the microwave should be adequate for sterilizing the eggshell- just let them cool before giving them to your finches.

Another thing you need to offer your zebra finches is grit or gravel. These small pebbles are eaten by the finches are used inside the birds gizzard (food pouch before the stomach) to aid in grinding the seeds and other food for digestion.

Breeding zebra finches is an easy process- they do all of the work! You need to make sure they are healthy and happy and nature will do the rest.

Actually- there are a few things you can provide to make their breeding efforts easier. As already discussed, a good healthy diet is a must. The female will need belly-fulls of nutrition to replace nutrients her body puts into the eggs she produces. Later she will need the energy for caring for the chicks and to pass onto the hungry mouths in the nest.

I may be stating the obvious but you need a male and female bird for productive breeding to occur. Females are drab and dull in comparison to the males. The males have a richer colored beak and feet, orange cheek patches, chestnut wing flanks and prominent barring on the tail feathers.

More than one male per cage will result in squabbling and possibly harassment of the female(s). For controlled breeding a pair per cage is recommended. The birds should be healthy and at least 6-9 months old.

Provide the pair with a covered nest made of wicker, wood, plastic or any other material. Zebra finches are not too picky- I have used well cleaned 1/2 pint milk containers with a hole cut in the side as single-use nests. For nesting material I use natural animal hairs or cotton strings. Do not use anything synthetic. Synthetic material can get twisted onto toes or swallowed causing serious problems!

With patience you will soon see the male courting the female. The male entices the female by chirping, hopping around quickly and presenting nesting material. The actual mating process takes just seconds. In 3-5 days the first egg will appear. A total of 5-12 eggs are lain; one every day.

Because of the gap of a day between eggs being laid there will be a similar gap in hatching. The eggs will hatch 12-14 days after being laid. The zebra finch chicks will be ready to leave the nest after about 3 weeks and will be eating on their own when they are about a month old.

Young birds will look like their mother- dull in coloration. They can be distinguished from the mom bird by their dark beaks. Once they young have left the nest and are eating on their own they should be separated from their parents to prevent inbreeding and fighting.

Pied: Splotches of white feathering on the bird. Pied can be combined with any other mutation.

White: Both male & female are white (no markings, not even cheek patches), sometimes with some minor gray or fawn flecking on the head and back of the bird. The way to tell the difference between the sexes is by the color of the beak: males have the red beak, females have the orange beak.

Fawn: Everything which is normally gray on the bird becomes a light brown color. Fawn can be combined with many other mutations.

Chestnut Flanked White: Birds are an all-over ivory white color, but the cock and hen retain their respective markings (even the tear drop is intact).

Silver: The normally gray body of the bird appears dark silver, being lighter in body coloration than a normal bird. The markings all remain intact and as vibrant as on a normal bird.

Penguin: The top of the head, back and wings are the normal body color, but the underparts are all bright.

Crested: Birds have a rosette of feathers atop the center of the head, the feathers sticking almost straight up, and growing in different directions.

Yellow-beak: Birds have a pale yellow beak instead of a red or orange beak.

Other color varieties exist and can be in different combinations. Most varieties can be found in pet stores for slight more than a standard color bird. Rarer varieties such as yellow-beaks or black cheeks will cost quite a bit more.